bigjohn

How tall are you? I'm 6ft 4" and usually immediately put the seat fully back on any car. I had an initial issue with my Superb re back ache when I first owned it however I eventually I found it was because for the first time the front seat was able to go too far back. I found pulling forward a teeny touch and adjusting the steering wheel slightly away from me, which seemed counter intuitive to start with. Basically seat and steering wheel had toooo much adjustment. I now find it perfect - to the point I'm nervous to change cars.

This causes havoc and stops internal heater:-

What colour is your coolant? Has it gone a bit muddy? There is a well documented issue where the silica bag in the header tank bursts and it's contents pollute the cooling system blocking any fine tubes etc especially the heater matrix. Look for "mit silikat" printed on the header tank. Smaller petrol engines do not have this. [EDIT] Found the Briskoda link:-

Yup, that sound broken. I suspect you've bought someone else's problem -you've done the right thing rejecting the car.

The "start car manually" appears when you have confused the stop/start in some way and for safety it won't try and start automatically. When I first got my Superb II I managed to trigger that message a couple of times - usually because the stop start hadn't stopped the engine for some reason so I panicked at a junction. The engine was so quiet it was hard to spot if it was running or not. I soon got used to it. You can push a button to disable stop/start but you have to do it everytime you start the car. The "Safelock check manual" shows up on most VAG cars - it's a standard warning about locking the car as it's fitted with deadlocks. It would have appeared as you turned the engine off manually. This message is normal and nothing to worry about. Out of interest as you all exit the car on most VAG cars:- Press the keyfob lock button once (normal exit) it locks/alarms fully & deadlocks so the interior handles don't work. This is the most secure. Press the keyfob lock button twice it locks the doors but doesn't deadlock and disables most of the alarm - useful on a long ferry journey to stop the alarm going off all the time! Also on VAG cars push and hold unlock drops the windows(handy on a hot day, push and hold lock raises the windows.

But wasn't the cambelt due at 5 years / 80k miles ?

Check wiring loom in hatch/boot first - common issue:-

Try adjusting the boot "stops". Earlier versions had a very long thread on Briskoda re noise:-

From a while ago - variable vane issue? however make sure all pipes (turbo/ vacuum etc) are ok first.

I'd be worried about a place that doesn't know the engine - I thought the VRS245 had the EA888 cam chain petrol engine?

With my Superb II (facelift) all the 12v sockets (front & boot) are permanently live. To run a coolbox in the boot that turns off with the engine I wired up a split relay(PCT Volton Relay ZR1220) that plugs into the boot 12v socket and outputs to another socket for the cool box. On my travels it's one way I know stop start has kicked in - the coolbox turns off!

Does the mkII Superb suffer from this as well? I think I have the same issue.

I bought my Michelin Crossclimate tyres in 2017 for my 2014 Superb II. I'm about to replace them as the tread is low near the edges but not complaining as I've done over 36k miles with them - no sign of cracking. Fabulous tyres especially in the wet and amazingly quiet. The only slight gripe is they only come with 7mm tread new - but they have lasted the test of time.

What I'm trying to say is the mkII does seem to sag over time - made worse with weight. I noticed another today that looked a bit low. It's worth at least checking re height. Recently checked my tyres and the inside edge has worn worn on my Crossclimates but they were on the car before the spring repair. I'm about to replace them soon - can't complain really as they have done 36k miles.

I'd second this. The Superb is a heavy beast and if you carry loads etc the springs do suffer. I had a similar issue wearing tyres on the inside somewhat - especially after a long trip through France fully laden with luggage / big people. Even on it's return it still wore on the inside a little. Eventually it failed it's MOT on a snapped spring(separate issue) and after replacement of both sides I was quite surprised how much higher the rear end looked - although looking at an earlier photo it was just back to the height when nearly new. Tyre wear now back to normal. The Superb II has independent rear suspension which introduces negative camber as each side of the rear compresses - if sagged all the time that camber will wear the tyres on the inside. I'd follow the advice to check heights as posted above by chimaera

On my Facelift with halogen headlights:- Dipped beam - H7 (55w) Daytime running/Main Beam - H15 (15/55w) Fog lights - H8 (35w) Halogen headlights usually 55w

Indeed - In the past I've seen all sort of horrors re brake fluid especially when repairing restoring cars the stuff I've drained off has been unbelievable and it's hard to imagine some of these were still being driven just before being stripped. The worst was a 1990 Passat with a regulator valve on the rear axle that was trapping brake fluid no matter how you bled the system - in the end all pipes/valves/cylinders were all replaced and bleeding had to include different valve positions. Some of the original fluid came out looking like chocolate milk!! A close second was a 1986 Volvo 740 Estate(my Dad's!) that looked like it had a black brake reservoir (it didn't but it rather changed colour as you bled the system!). It was a right swine to properly bleed as it had fluid trapped in a strange cross circuit switch/sensor which sensed a circuit fail. In turn that switch/sensor was sticking as the internal ball assembly separating the system was starting to rust internally! Even when you changed the switch it was hard to get the air out of that bit. There wasn't an electronic procedure to help back then! Saying that it was an impressive dual circuit setup - each front brake caliper had a piston/bleed valve on each circuit and considering I found out the brake fluid was over a decade old at the time all the pipes & nipples came undone. Re the original post though it's not always enough just to test what's in the brake master cylinder reservoir as this fluid may have been topped up with fresh after a brake or clutch job but that won't have replaced it elsewhere in the system.

Is the engine turning at all - double check looking a crankshaft pulley - making sure it's not just failure due to lack of compression - eg potential cam belt issue! If engine has no compression it will spin quickly on the starter motor. Starter motor should engage with the ring gear turning the primary mass of the DMF and turn the engine - so should turn engine even if DMF is in trouble ie probably not that!

Never go beyond the first click when filling with petrol. Light may go out after a number of starts without detected error. Not sure re Kamiq but I had this with my Superb after I brimmed it in Luxembourg on holiday shortly after I had bought it. Booked a visit to a German dealer - light eventually went out(after numerous starts) but I had it checked out anyway and I was told not to overfill. It's been fine since with a one click fill strategy.

Out of interest what have you bought instead?

I had a career based on turn if off and on and again (IT) 🤣 Sometimes a glitch can trigger an EML incident that clears after a set number of starts - in the case of my Superb it was shortly after I had bought it and filled to the brim in Luxemburg (cheaper petrol). I booked it into a German dealer en-route after phoning my home dealer for advice. The EML had cleared before I arrived at the dealer - but they checked it out anyway, saying "von clik halte!!"

Ok - it was just a diagnostic enquiry as cruise control uses a sensor from the clutch master cylinder - cruise disengages when clutch pedal is depressed. Of anything to have been disturbed is the wiring to this.......

Presuming it's master and slave being changed I'd say in this case it's sensible at this high mileage/age especially as clutch fluid is rarely bled through even during the bi-annual brake fluid change so the condition of the cylinders/pistons can be er interesting (I've seem some horror stories)!! I also think the 1.6 Greenline diesel has an external slave cylinder (unlike the 2.0) so not a gearbox off job - ie cheaper simpler. Also you are only dealing with the hydraulics once and not risking doing half a job to then experience another potential breakdown. I would have though a code would show up if EML is on however I do wonder if something has been disturbed. Out of interest was cruise control working ok on the way back? Also where was it last filled with diesel?

Miss post - was pasting Erwin link for someone!!!

How about good old fashioned stainless Jubilee clips? - I find them more reliable as well. Saying that I'll save that Aliexpress link - looks rather useful.