bigjohn

What engine does your car have? On my old mk I Octavia 1.4 petrol you always heard the fuel pump whirring as you unlocked/ opened the door - could this pump be on the way out? You mention that the battery is brand new - it's also worth re checking battery cables as they will have been disturbed - not just at the battery end but also where they terminate (eg body earth).

I'm a fan of Owatrol oil. Pull out the lights and blather the stuff inside and out (underneath). I've done this on my Superb II as a precautionary measure as others have mentioned this issue - as yet it's perfect. It's a fantastic rust inhibitor and sets to a kind of clearish resin finish - can be painted over (if needed!!) or even added to paint! It's resistant to being washed off. PS it's really good at preserving subframes (eg engine subframe) and suspension components. I've also used on rusting seams on mrs BJ's 06 Fiat Panda - they have held up well for a few years after treatment.

Sounds like it's had the usual dreaded pollen filter chamber/ plenum water leak 🤕

To me sounds like the wrong clock spring was fitted 3 years ago.

But that's a sign you are probably having earth issues. A dodgy earth can do strange things - you can sometimes get smaller bulbs to sort of illuminate as they find a sort of a route to earth through larger filament bulbs depending on the wiring layout/ relay positions etc.

I use a PCT Automotive Split Charge Relay ZR1220 plugged into the boot socket - disconnects output when engine off / not charging. In my case it feeds two inline sockets 1) for a dash cam and 2) for a coolbox. The latter would soon flatten the battery without it! [EDIT - link:-] https://www.amazon.co.uk/PCT-Automotive-Split-Charge-ZR1220/dp/B07KJTNG7V/ref=asc_df_B07KJTNG7V/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310869310714&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2369054140752903766&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006514&hvtargid=pla-761793639295&psc=1 However doesn't your car have Bluetooth anyway? Even on my poverty spec I can connect everything with Bluetooth - I have an Amazon Echo Auto controlling my phone which is connected to the car all reliably via Bluetooth. Or is that the bit that's temperamental? How about the aux socket instead - a previous phone had temperamental bluetooth so I used that for a while.

Audi A4 of the time had similar oily bits. My neighbour's 2003 A4 Avant is mechanically the same as my previous 2003 Superb mkI. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224962568847?hash=item3460d0628f:g:akEAAOSwsIRia6uy For a car with the same engine?

Take it back:- https://www.theaa.com/car-buying/legal-rights

Welcome I did the A1079 commute to York for 28 years - fortunately no longer!

I think the water pump belt is supposed to be fit for life!! However the water pump seals are known to fail so it's probably a good idea to replace whole pump /belt assembly anyway. My son has just had the cambelt replaced on his 1.2tsi - maybe time to do the water pump as well!

If it's the small cc petrol EA211 engine (1.0, 1.2, 1.4, 1.5) the water pump and belt is at the rear of the engine so it's a totally different job.

Perfik - great engine

Is this a bigger issue - I thought "Radio Data Systems Traffic Message Channel" was transmitted over Classic FM in the UK? I can't tell with my car as I use Tomtom technology - which was working fine today - saved me from a big problem today as the A66 was closed due to a big accident! Saying that I was listening to Classic FM ok today?

On my petrol the onboard computer is surprisingly accurate. With my previous diesel it was pure fiction.

Best I've ever done was about 64mpg on a journey of about 10 miles was just after filling up so already warmed up etc doing lowish speeds but negotiating a couple of roundabouts and a couple of set of traffic lights. My usual average is about 46mpg but over 50mpg is achievable on long runs - but mine drinks from the green unleaded pump.

On my Superb mkII 1.4 fitted with a 16v version of the EA111 engine I use the Haynes 5633 VW Golf "2009 to 2012 (58 to 62 reg) Petrol & Diesel" manual. Describes alternator removal/replacement/ inspection/brush replacement. Hope this helps.

How many mile have you done? I'd start by checking all joints / bushes first to see if anything worn. I had a similar problem with an Octavia mkI a few years ago at about 130k miles - replacement bottom arms fixed the issue.

However it's achieved(warranty or otherwise - it's not that expensive) I think you need a replacement battery (power steering faults can be a clue as high power item, the heater isn't as it uses coolant to heat) - had a similar problem when my son was buying a 3 year old Octavia mkIII a few years ago. We took for an extended test drive and the stop / start never worked. We insisted on a replacement battery as part of the sale(EFB & coded). It had been sat on the forecourt for a while. PS that was 2019 - it's been fine ever since.

I'd have been a bit more insistent if it was a new noise after a service. However it does sound like it's something related to turbo / air intake. I'd re-examine turbo pipes / air filter housing etc. Anything that could be disturbed during a service. It's that vacuum cleaner noise above 2000rpm that possibly suggests that to me.

My poverty spec facelift doesn't do that. Can I presume you have rain sensors? Is there a setting in maxidot settings somewhere. Seem to remember "convenience >> rain closing" on another car.

Yes, I'd say so. Especially as it's a cheap job. 🍀

On the mkII the 1.4tsi 6 speed has an external slave, not sure re the mkIII. Eurocarparts lists both types. But as you say it needs ruling out. The car we had this valve fail on was actually a Fiat Panda! After being stuck in traffic Mrs BJ ended up stranded with the clutch pedal stuck to the floor. Replacement slave cylinder/ valve assembly restored normal service - infact the clutch was transformed so must have been on the way out for a while.

Possibly a clue! Is it fitted with an external clutch slave cylinder(on top of gearbox outside bellhousing)? or is it concentric (inside the bellhousing)? If it's an external slave - change this FIRST as it's a cheap job. They have a "protection valve" to protect the clutch from too rapid a release - I've known this on another make of car fail causing the pedal to stick to the floor(when hot in that case). If it's playing up I suppose it could cause judder. External will look something like this (follow hydraulic pipes to check):-

Mr BJ's Panda also has a 12v socket that goes off with the ignition. Many people on the forum use a piggy back fuse to create another switched live feed. In my Superb I use a "PCT Volton Relay ZR1220" plugged into the boot 12v socket wired into an inline socket to run my cool box in the boot without flattening the battery. [EDIT] https://www.just-tow.co.uk/product/volton-split-charge-relay/

I think your picture is the same stuff in a different language https://www.owatroldirect.co.uk/product/owatrol-oil/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyMiTBhDKARIsAAJ-9Vuq-Coq4XoMWBdSAK_aUhQyim6RGX576iWFZskexSD_wIMXfao_t6oaAiChEALw_wcB I used Owatrol on the sump from the 0.5l cans brushed on after being poured into a jam jar. I've since used the spray cans on suspension parts and hard to get to places. Try a can of each to start with.