bigjohn

As Xman has mentioned crankcase can get a bit of pressurisation if something is wrong with crankcase ventilation be it something blocked or a faulty PCV. With excessive crankcase pressurisation gases will try to escape somewhere, be it inlet/exhaust valve oil seals which can increase oil consumption and this may show up at the exhaust tailpipe [EDIT - the oil in the inlet manifold might be a clue?] . Re check everything re crankcase ventilation. Different engine but my old Octavia 1.416v suffered with a blocked oil pipe within the air filter housing as part of the breather setup that caused the oil level to be low after a few hundred miles, when I sorted it oil consumption went back to normal. Also how many miles has the engine done? Gases being blown out could also be a bit of piston blow by? When working with older cars in the past I've known crankcase pressurisation to push oil past all sorts of things be it oil valve seals , crank oil seals, gaskets (sump, rocker etc) and on an old Cortina the dipstick was ejected. Cylinder no 1 misfiring is strange - just in case is all well with the timing chain, no rattles etc?

I think boot socket is now in the "Simply Clever" pack:- Simply clever pack - Scala Pack Contents: Storage boxes under front seats 12V socket in luggage compartment Door edge protectors

Did they tell you what the compression reading where? This might be a case of up-selling. Wasted spark coil pack failure is pretty common - which I think the 1.2tsi has. My Octavia 1.416v which had a similar coil pack was on it's third and indeed it seemed to fail roughly about every 60,000 miles. PS Wasted spark means the coil pack whilst it has four leads attached only has two coils. Each coil drives two spark plugs - hence the name "wasted spark" as each time a spark is generated it fires one cylinder and is "wasted" on the other. A failure on a coil will affect two cylinders though. If it's driving well and has a smooth tickover - keep calm and carry on...

Crossovers are usually simple affairs so I don't think would cause a clipping sound. I didn't realise anything more complex was fitted to the standard setup. Usually best to upgrade amp and speakers together, especially bass speakers. Wire some good speakers to the head unit though to test that is ok.

Sorry I don't agree re winter tyres. That might have been true years ago with earlier ubersoft winter compounds but modern winter tyres are much better. Because of lockdown and not driving abroad etc, I couldn't be bothered swapping my winter TS850's off my Superb, Infact I've ended up doing about another 10,000 miles on them (inc motorways etc), some of it in hot weather. The tread still looks deep all round - I've done about 27k miles thus far on the TS850's. However my "summer" tyres are now Michelin Cross climates and I think they are great. Good in all conditions , especially when very wet (a feature of my commute!) and amazingly quiet. When my winter tyres wear out I'll probably just use Crossclimates going forward - the problem is the fabulous TS850's seem to be lasting many years!

I've found H4's to be poor in my old Octavia, especially using main beam (only one filament at a time should be illuminated). The earlier Osram Nightbreakers (and earlier Silverstars) were pretty good in my superb mk I - brighter bulbs lasted about a year. Not tried the Next Gen though - I sold this car in 2015. I don't know whether it's better reflectors but I've found the H7 projector headlights to be much better in my Facelift Superb mk II so I've not bothered with enhanced bulbs with this car. [EDIT] PS another feature the Roomster H7 headlight units is I think there is a lever to flatten the beam if you are taking the car abroad.

You can't fit H4 bulbs - they are a totally different fitment twin filament bulb (dip+main). I'm not sure if H4 headlight unit were available on the roomster. Saying that I found H4's to be awful on my old Skoda Octavia MK1. LED H7 bulb replacements are illegal , some are dangerous to oncoming drivers and can throw up errors. You can get +30 +50 ... legal CE marked H7 bulbs which give some improvement. I've used various over the years (Osram Silverstar etc) but the brighter bulbs also tend to suffer with a somewhat shorter life. If your bulbs are easyish to change then this is less of an issue.

On my 1.4tsi after 9500 miles the oil is somewhat darker, always has gone like this since I bought it at 14 months old. The oil filter is indeed easy to get at but you have to make sure the old seal has been removed and the new correct filter is not overtightened. There is an internal valve that releases oil back to the sump as it is unscrewed. It's also the same valve that can be damaged if overtightened when being fitted. As a precaution it's worth covering the alternator when releasing the oil filter, just in case this valve doesn't work which then releases oil over the alternator.

Agreed - was worth checking though. Difficult job , but I've had some sucess identifying water leaks by firstly removing trim and pulling back some carpets and dusting areas with talc to identify where water is coming from. Before you do this it's worth having two of you (one inside the car and one outside) remove scuttle cover again and apply the hose pipe to different areas to try and identify. A useful tool is an inspection camera. My dad had a Volvo 740 that had a water leak for many years that I managed to eventually identify the problem which was a badly fitted windscreen replacement. Can I presume it is clear water? Good luck! [EDIT] PS I've not had to investigate water leaks on my Superb, thus far dry as a bone. My experience has been with older cars

With variable servicing there are different variable intervals for oil change and inspection servicing - yours must be variable. With fixed servicing it's one service at one year or 9500 miles. Myself with your direct injection cam chain engine I wouldn't recommend variable servicing. They are very oil sensitive and the direct injection hammers the oil. I also have this engine in mine and have had the servicing changed to fixed intervals (only one shows up on the servicing display then). The EA111 1.4tsi has had issues in earlier versions but the one fitted to the Facelift Superb is about the last revision of this engine, but the cam chain still needs looking after with clean oil and the correct oil filter(very important!). If it was me as 10k miles have been done I'd have a full (Oil + inspection) service and get the service interval changed to fixed. It's not all bad, the upside of the direct injection and cam chain is surprising economy and no cam belt to change, the chain needs looking after though with good servicing.

Run the air con for some time and look under the car for drips, which it should do eventually. If climate control turn to the lowest setting.

Is the water from the intake or is the aircon/condensate drain blocked? Only a thought

The Superb II can be rather sensitive to wheel balancing - worth doing first. Also check the rear tyres for a funny tread wear - with the independent rear suspension it can be prone strange wear patterns.

Is yours the 170ps Elegance as per signature? if so this would be much longer geared than the1.9pd 105ps 77kw . I have to say I agree re 5th compared to 6th, there are some lower speeds I find my 1.4tsi is more economical in 5th compared to 6th. 6th is very much an overdrive gear on this poverty spec petrol. Doing 30 mph at 1000rpm is sixth translates to 180mph at 6000rpm which clearly the 1.4 125ps can't do! Saying that it still pulls way better than you'd ever expect at higher speeds on the German Autobahn

Ah yes now I remember. VAG revised down the cambelt for all engines a while ago to 4 years / 40,000 miles. My old 2001 1.4 16v Octavia used to have 110,000 miles listed in the manual. I had it from new and at about 46,000 miles the engine made a funny noise which I took back under warranty which turned out to be failing plastic tensioner/pulley wheels. Cambelt/tensioners etc were changed FOC(engine was not damaged!) and at about that time Skoda revised the change interval to 40,000 miles. My 2003 Superb 1.9pd that followed it had 80,000 in the manual as the cambelt change interval but this had also been revised down to 40,000 miles. I thought for cars after 2009 the change interval was increased. However the pd is indeed hard on the cambelt due to the unit injectors being operated by the camshaft. You also need to make sure the correct oil is used or the cam operation of the injector pumps will wear prematurely.

2000rpm at 60mph is about the same as with my previous 1.9pd 100ps Superb mk1 5 speed - almost the same engine. I thought with the 1.9pd the cambelt interval was 4 years and 80k miles - with later VAG engines the interval was increased to 5 years.

See :-

This engine is know to have bottom end issues becoming bad oil burners and fixing involves replacing with later version of pistons, rings and I think con rods. If you have a revised later engine with a low mileage and it's not burning oil then I'd say happy days.

What is wrong with the head, have you had a cam chain failure which has done some damage? The 1.8 and 2.0 is also know for piston issues with high oil consumption. so a recon engine probably the better bet and presumably comes with a guarantee of some sort. However at £4,500 is it worth it financially ? Any second hand engines available?

I thought the Kangaroo effect was stronger with manual versions but the DSG disguised it somewhat.

This is normal on almost every modern car - when you lock the car as default you deadlock it so the locks can't be opened from the inside. This is a security feature to stop a thief opening the door from the inside after breaking a window. Infact if you had this modified you would have insurance issues as this feature is part of the insurance assesment. I’ve not tested on a Rapid but on other Skodas If you push the lock button twice in fairly short succession you should be able to disable the deadlocks and part of the alarm (no red light flashing afterwards). Infact I usually do this if I'm on a long overnight ferry crossing to stop the alarm being triggered repeatedly due to motion at sea.

Indeed I'll be interested to hear the response as I hate putting stickers on the headlights. My current Superb mk II facelift has a really tiny lever in each headlight unit which took some finding when I got it even the dealer struggled but they eventually located them buried in a manual - pre facelift totally different. I need an inspection camera combined with a small screwdriver to flatten the beam on each side. I'm Looking at the Scala or Kamiq as possibly wanting to downsize, but European driving is (er was) a key part of our life as I really hate airports. Clearly on the higher models with the full LED lights that's not an issue but they are a bit pricy.

I've been wondering this myself as I'm considering a Scala or Kamiq and I've been searching the manuals with no real answer. I usually drive in Europe a few times a year. How does the beam look at night up against a wall - does it look flat or kicked up at the edge? It may already have a flat beam and may not need adjusting. On a previous car when it was not clear where to apply Eurolites I sellotaped one to a knitting needle and with the headlights pointing at a wall/fence around dusk moved it around the front of each headlight until the kick up to the left was supressed and marked the lens with a little dot. However a few years into ownership I discovered a little lever that did the job – I suspect there won’t be one with the LED lights though.

Start at the Servo/tandem pump end (vibrations and heat can damage the pipe here - important for your brakes as well!!) to check everything thoroughly - leaks are not always obvious. I had one on a mkI pd in one of the small plastic pipes that looked like it was made that way, mine was caused by the pipe rubbing / wearing through over time because of the diesel vibration. After the T off near the servo I followed the pipes and disconnected at each stage to listen / feel for vacuum. It's worth checking if the EGR valve is OK as these can gunk up somewhat. The anti shudder valve is a good indicator whether things are not right re vacuum as it's at the end of the line. It should operate/move when you turn the engine off - If you stand next to the car with the bonnet up it should be visible and you can easily see its operation (or not) when you turn the engine off. Note Servo on UK is clearly on the OS - after T off vacuum pipes go to the NS to the EGR , back over to the OS for vacuum reserve(lookes a bit like a baseball) , turbo actuator and anti shudder. I'm working from memory here as I haven't had my mkI Superb for 5 years now - still going strong under new ownership though.

Has the major rev up sent something downstream and partially blocked something eg intercooler or catalyst? With the bonnet up and revving the engine can you hear the hissing - if so get someone to keep firing up the revs and try to isolate where the hissing is coming from. You usually feel the pressure when hitting the revs and squeezing turbo pipes - compare and contrast either side of the intercooler. Is the vacuum side of things re the pd ok? A leak here could create a hissing noise - probably not so loud though. When you turn the engine off does it shudder? - and does the anti shudder valve move as the engine is turned off (it should!) - usually visible just under the engine top plastic cover with the bonnet up looking over the OS wing. This can be a clue if something is not as it should be here.