rum4mo

Sorry, no not the moment.

Notes that made up in preparation for doing this job, but in my case hopefully before a bolt fails! Just in case you need it. Parts required:- 1) Fuel rail securing bolts 4 – off N 105 464 03 2) Inlet manifold port seals 4 – off 036 129 717E 3) Charge pipe top seal WHT 001 386 (44mm) 4) Charge pipe lower seal WHT 003 247 (65mm) 5) Coolant G12evo HP fuel rail securing bolts torque 8Nm + 90deg in correct order 1 3 4 2 Coolant pipe bolt torque 8Nm Inlet manifold bolts 8Nm start at centre and work outwards in both directions 5 3 1 2 4 Lubricate charge pipe O-ring seals with clean engine oil Note, coolant needs to be removed before starting to remove the inlet manifold. You will have to add in a set of 4 "bits" for injectors, ie seals etc. This seems to be the other parts that you will need, only you will be able to work out which or how many injector "bits" you need, but if it was me, I'd be replacing them on all 4 injectors:- 04E998907A Repair Kit 4-off (one per injector) £46.80 04E133036A Support Element (clip for injector<>rail) 4-off (one per injector) £19.16 These prices are over 12 months old. Maybe after you sort this out, contact DVSA, and Skoda UK.

Actually, has this thread not gone a complete circle, you said the first time round that you could not find any signs of a fuel filter where it would normally be located, the parts listing for your age of car agrees, so I'd think that that is that!

Ignore that posting of mine for the time being, something looks different for Skoda - but why? Edit:- really do look under your car as it might have been deleted by this point in production of a Skoda - seeing is believing! (some thing that I should do on my wife's car!) Another edit:- I have now looked under my wife's July 2015 build Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and it does have the filter where it has always been since back in late 2001 on VW Polos, and for Fabia since "the start".

Normally you can conveniently read off the part number of the fuel filter if it exists, and I'd now reckon that it does, it will be located on the RHS of the car just in front of the rear wheel. Edit:- also look out for the pressure rating of it (or its built in regulator) should be 6.6bar if your car has PR:1A2 which means that you have a direct injection engine. which makes that filter p/n 1K0 201 051K, that is based on info for 1.2TSI 110PS 2015, but still tha same for 2018 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, but check your car. Another edit:- I've left this reply here, but added a comment in the next posting that it could be that your car was built after petrol filters were deleted on Fabia.

You'll need to buy in a new set of bolts, injector seals and new O-ring seals for the pressure/charge pipe, I've not done this job yet, so I can't help - no doubt Erwin Skoda will keep you right for a few £s. Oh, and I bought a set of 4 inlet gaskets as it might not be clever to reuse the original ones. Maybe even, as you might be "first man in there" take some pictures of the inlet area to let us see if there is significant build up of carbon in there yet. Edit:- I would not expect the sheared off bolt shank to cause you much trouble now that it has snapped its head off, you should be able to "walk" it out using a small punch etc.

It is not just that someone finally serviced/cleaned up the brake assemblies, I'm guessing, maybe incorrectly, that this car only gets its brakes serviced when they are not working too yet?

I'm guessing that by the way that you have worded this, that ECU Testing can not repair this unit with that fault and return it to you working? Or can you not live without having your car on the road?

Well, I tried buying a set of these SS inserts/shims, and I couldn’t fit them on the carriers, so dimensions have changed to reflect “no shims now”. that was on a 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I just serviced the brakes on 2019 Arona and yes, still no shims.

One of the first "things" that I check and record, both the number or letter AND a picture on the security bolt head when any of my close family get a car. Maybe it just makes up for the loss of needing to store ICE security code nowadays!

I think that this has been mentioned in another section of this forum, good to know that VW Group main dealers are being honest about this. On the other hand, seeing as you are still a bit concerned, I used to have a 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4, that engine had a belt driven camshaft, the original recommendation was "90K miles" for replacing the belt, a few years later I just stumbled across an article in a car mag that said that GM had had a rethink and knocked the "change cam belt" down to something like 35K miles or X years - I reacted immediately!!

I'd say so, once you have removed a security bolt, check the ident on the end of the thread, and note this for future reference, maybe, as well as the ident on this new one. Quite a few car marques use these MaGard security bolts, typically with their own ident for that "shape". I've successfully bought a spare "key" for VW Group car wheel bolts twice, and got it right first time - one was listed as for a VW Group car and the other maybe a Vauxhall. Edit:- maybe your next plan could be to recoup some of that money you've spent by selling the wrong one that you have, its ident will be stamped onto the head of the key.

I never ever managed to get any clues as to which side it was, that was after 6 months so probably around 4K miles. Trying the weaving side to side did nothing at all.

Modern Gen2 bearing packs, or hub assemblies tend to start making noises well before they can exhibit any clues like "roughness" or "slackness", though you need to find a way to dismiss the "is it just tyres" first obviously. I needed to change the front bearings on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, it started making the usual noises at maybe 36K miles back in November 2021 while it had its winter wheels/tyres on, I played the old "its just uneven wear on the directional winter tyres" and that lasted until I found that a (front) subframe bolt head on the garage floor, so I changed my "logic" to "its just due to uneven tyre wear caused by the wheel alignment possibly being wrong due to that fixing having failed". So, in mid April 2022 I got the subframe bolts all replaced and a 4 wheel alignment check-correct carried out and then changed over to summer wheels and tyres - no change in the noise! So I bought a cheap Gen2 front wheel bearing removal and fit kit and ordered in a couple of new F A G front hub/bearings assemblies from autodoc, the factory fit ones were SNR - France, changing both of them sorted out that noise issue, it looked like moisture/water had managed to find its way across the seals and into the offside bearing, though even off the car, both bearings did not feel rough etc.

I've always aimed to play safe and only ever buy Panasonic batteries, like VW Group seem to do, if you are careful/lucky, you can buy them online quite cheaply - if time allows.

My daughter's previous car, a November 2009 built and reg'd SEAT Ibiza 1.4 with that engine, ended up with an annoying leak at the rear of the engine which meant that the inlet manifold rear/bottom got "wetted" with engine oil, I cleaned that up and bought in a pair of new O-rings as "the word was" that there was a material problem on one of these O-rings on the oil seperater and they caused many leaks under warranty so needed replacing. I'm slightly ashamed to say that the new O-rings "lived" in the glovebox of that car as I just didn't quite feel the need to mess around behind the engine! In reality, I was looking after that car while she worked abroad and just ran out of time to sort that out before she came back to UK permanently - then she sold it.

Oh well, that clears that up for me. So for this owner, a very silly mistake at initial purchase.

Maybe a really stupid question - and I'm sorry if it is, but in 2015, was it possible to buy a Fabia in UK that didn't have AC, maybe that car only has manual AC and not the fancy Climatic or whatever name Skoda gives its auto AC?

That is the air outlet pipe from the turbo charger into the throttle body, with a blow off valve added in for "good" effect. You should be able to get a charge pipe assembly and new O-rings easily enough - possibly new from a main dealer as I'd doubt if scrappy's will split bits off engines, but if you don't ask you will not find out. You could save your money and just start wearing a cap on back to front, though there will still be the issue of the blow off valve noises. Edit:- my older daughter's partner bought a Lotus Espirit GT3 many years ago, but buying it clashed with house rebuilding, so he is only now getting round to removing its aftermarket BOV, "much too fat person's" quick release steering wheel and racing seats, next is the blue silicon piping - he had read on Lotus forums that when used on coolant systems, these blue silicon pipes tend to leak at the clips. Apart from the stereotype of typical buyer of these silicon pipes, I thought that they should last longer and perform just as well than the originals, but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe look for the part number in here :- IFI :: Free services (ifinterface.com)

In the absence of good info being passed back to the customer, ie the OP, it was his guess that that was the issue based on info collected elsewhere, I was just responding to that.

The air > air side of a car's cabin air evaporator should not end up getting clogged with debris, the internal side of the tubing, where the expanded fridge gas passes, can be clogged up, but should only be due to a failure somewhere else in the system, which would be expensive to fix and include a system flushing through, so what I am saying is, I'd never expect a car's cabin air evaporator to end up clogged without some other serious repairing needing to be taking place. De-waxers can be used to clear out any evaporator clogging and any other areas where wax has gathered due to the system having used "not so expensive" oil, but that should only be required in less than 1% of modern car systems, and it would take a proper clued up fridge person to work out that that was the issue, if this was indeed the root cause of your AC problems, then I'd be suggesting that maybe any or all VW Group or any other marque workshops, are not the best place to go to get AC repairs carried out, well at least when considering the overall cost to you, the time wasted and the damage to your property. Edit:- these older fridge gases are quite good at scrubbing the internal surfaces of fridge systems and so keeping them clean and maybe dumping any accumulated stuff up in the drier.

I wonder what exactly happened to that original evaporator as it is just a cabin air to chiller circuit heat exchanger, I would expect its only failure mode to be leaking. I know that anyone doing work for any of us, can make a single mistake - whoever handled that job was clearly winging it.

I’ll stick to using the latest version of VW Group coolant, which is G12evo, what is printed on the coolant reservoir body is just what was being used at the factory on initial build. I will also be applying a slight vacuum to the system to help with refilling, then using a scan tool to run the charge cooler pump also to help initially get rid of trapped bubbles. One thing about needing to demand cabin heating, these cars use the “air blending” way of adjusting the temperature of the air from the heater, and that means that the heater matrix has engine coolant passing through it at all times while the engine is running. Having said that, when I follow a coolant change with a car run, I will usually have the cabin air temperature set high so that I know that there is coolant flowing around the system.

Yup, if the chiller still seems to be chilling the cabin well enough, then I tend to leave it alone. changed or even hoovering out the cabin filter at every (home) service is a good idea, I tend to buy Mann Frecious versions of these filters from whoever is selling them cheapest. Mahle now market their version maybe quite cheaply from ECP, they have their own name for the one that is same idea as Frecious - just check the full description on the ECP website, it should include “fungicide”, basically there tends to be 3 options for these filters:- basic, carbon coated and then fungicide- which also has the properties of the carbon version. It really depends on your personal allergies etc I’ve tended to buy one of these “bombs” from ECP and run that through the system (see instructions, tends to be, with all windows closed, the the AC on recirculate and place the “bomb” in the rear seat well, and set it off, close doors after exiting the car - leave like this for ?? minutes, open car doors, switch off, remove now empty “bomb” - job done! But, I tend to do this while replacing the cabin filter, so, remove old filter, cover up the empty filter housing, run the cleaning routine using the “bomb”, after that fit the new filter. The other details of the alternative to Mann is a Mahle ie Knecht which is similar their trade name for that is CareMetix.

I agree that this is in my experience (August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS now at 42,000 miles), is not a known and accepted characteristic of this engine, they should idle smoothly at a constant RPM hot, cold or in between, summer autumn winter or spring time. Edit:- that is at least for 6MT box.