rum4mo

I never ever managed to get any clues as to which side it was, that was after 6 months so probably around 4K miles. Trying the weaving side to side did nothing at all.

Modern Gen2 bearing packs, or hub assemblies tend to start making noises well before they can exhibit any clues like "roughness" or "slackness", though you need to find a way to dismiss the "is it just tyres" first obviously. I needed to change the front bearings on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, it started making the usual noises at maybe 36K miles back in November 2021 while it had its winter wheels/tyres on, I played the old "its just uneven wear on the directional winter tyres" and that lasted until I found that a (front) subframe bolt head on the garage floor, so I changed my "logic" to "its just due to uneven tyre wear caused by the wheel alignment possibly being wrong due to that fixing having failed". So, in mid April 2022 I got the subframe bolts all replaced and a 4 wheel alignment check-correct carried out and then changed over to summer wheels and tyres - no change in the noise! So I bought a cheap Gen2 front wheel bearing removal and fit kit and ordered in a couple of new F A G front hub/bearings assemblies from autodoc, the factory fit ones were SNR - France, changing both of them sorted out that noise issue, it looked like moisture/water had managed to find its way across the seals and into the offside bearing, though even off the car, both bearings did not feel rough etc.

I've always aimed to play safe and only ever buy Panasonic batteries, like VW Group seem to do, if you are careful/lucky, you can buy them online quite cheaply - if time allows.

My daughter's previous car, a November 2009 built and reg'd SEAT Ibiza 1.4 with that engine, ended up with an annoying leak at the rear of the engine which meant that the inlet manifold rear/bottom got "wetted" with engine oil, I cleaned that up and bought in a pair of new O-rings as "the word was" that there was a material problem on one of these O-rings on the oil seperater and they caused many leaks under warranty so needed replacing. I'm slightly ashamed to say that the new O-rings "lived" in the glovebox of that car as I just didn't quite feel the need to mess around behind the engine! In reality, I was looking after that car while she worked abroad and just ran out of time to sort that out before she came back to UK permanently - then she sold it.

Oh well, that clears that up for me. So for this owner, a very silly mistake at initial purchase.

Maybe a really stupid question - and I'm sorry if it is, but in 2015, was it possible to buy a Fabia in UK that didn't have AC, maybe that car only has manual AC and not the fancy Climatic or whatever name Skoda gives its auto AC?

That is the air outlet pipe from the turbo charger into the throttle body, with a blow off valve added in for "good" effect. You should be able to get a charge pipe assembly and new O-rings easily enough - possibly new from a main dealer as I'd doubt if scrappy's will split bits off engines, but if you don't ask you will not find out. You could save your money and just start wearing a cap on back to front, though there will still be the issue of the blow off valve noises. Edit:- my older daughter's partner bought a Lotus Espirit GT3 many years ago, but buying it clashed with house rebuilding, so he is only now getting round to removing its aftermarket BOV, "much too fat person's" quick release steering wheel and racing seats, next is the blue silicon piping - he had read on Lotus forums that when used on coolant systems, these blue silicon pipes tend to leak at the clips. Apart from the stereotype of typical buyer of these silicon pipes, I thought that they should last longer and perform just as well than the originals, but maybe I'm wrong. Maybe look for the part number in here :- IFI :: Free services (ifinterface.com)

In the absence of good info being passed back to the customer, ie the OP, it was his guess that that was the issue based on info collected elsewhere, I was just responding to that.

The air > air side of a car's cabin air evaporator should not end up getting clogged with debris, the internal side of the tubing, where the expanded fridge gas passes, can be clogged up, but should only be due to a failure somewhere else in the system, which would be expensive to fix and include a system flushing through, so what I am saying is, I'd never expect a car's cabin air evaporator to end up clogged without some other serious repairing needing to be taking place. De-waxers can be used to clear out any evaporator clogging and any other areas where wax has gathered due to the system having used "not so expensive" oil, but that should only be required in less than 1% of modern car systems, and it would take a proper clued up fridge person to work out that that was the issue, if this was indeed the root cause of your AC problems, then I'd be suggesting that maybe any or all VW Group or any other marque workshops, are not the best place to go to get AC repairs carried out, well at least when considering the overall cost to you, the time wasted and the damage to your property. Edit:- these older fridge gases are quite good at scrubbing the internal surfaces of fridge systems and so keeping them clean and maybe dumping any accumulated stuff up in the drier.

I wonder what exactly happened to that original evaporator as it is just a cabin air to chiller circuit heat exchanger, I would expect its only failure mode to be leaking. I know that anyone doing work for any of us, can make a single mistake - whoever handled that job was clearly winging it.

I’ll stick to using the latest version of VW Group coolant, which is G12evo, what is printed on the coolant reservoir body is just what was being used at the factory on initial build. I will also be applying a slight vacuum to the system to help with refilling, then using a scan tool to run the charge cooler pump also to help initially get rid of trapped bubbles. One thing about needing to demand cabin heating, these cars use the “air blending” way of adjusting the temperature of the air from the heater, and that means that the heater matrix has engine coolant passing through it at all times while the engine is running. Having said that, when I follow a coolant change with a car run, I will usually have the cabin air temperature set high so that I know that there is coolant flowing around the system.

Yup, if the chiller still seems to be chilling the cabin well enough, then I tend to leave it alone. changed or even hoovering out the cabin filter at every (home) service is a good idea, I tend to buy Mann Frecious versions of these filters from whoever is selling them cheapest. Mahle now market their version maybe quite cheaply from ECP, they have their own name for the one that is same idea as Frecious - just check the full description on the ECP website, it should include “fungicide”, basically there tends to be 3 options for these filters:- basic, carbon coated and then fungicide- which also has the properties of the carbon version. It really depends on your personal allergies etc I’ve tended to buy one of these “bombs” from ECP and run that through the system (see instructions, tends to be, with all windows closed, the the AC on recirculate and place the “bomb” in the rear seat well, and set it off, close doors after exiting the car - leave like this for ?? minutes, open car doors, switch off, remove now empty “bomb” - job done! But, I tend to do this while replacing the cabin filter, so, remove old filter, cover up the empty filter housing, run the cleaning routine using the “bomb”, after that fit the new filter. The other details of the alternative to Mann is a Mahle ie Knecht which is similar their trade name for that is CareMetix.

I agree that this is in my experience (August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS now at 42,000 miles), is not a known and accepted characteristic of this engine, they should idle smoothly at a constant RPM hot, cold or in between, summer autumn winter or spring time. Edit:- that is at least for 6MT box.

Did you refill the coolant system with G12evo and how much did it take to refill it? I really must remove the inlet manifold on my wife’s August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI, and check it's fuel rail bolts and refill it with G12evo. I’ve bought a used AC pipe - expansion valve to condenser, as I’ve finally worked out that maybe that pipe is leaking very slightly where the flexi section is joined to the alloy section. I’d always only considered that oil that appeared on that pipe originally when that car was under warranty, and I have been assuming that it is engine oil that escaped onto it when in fact it just might be fridge oil weeping out - along with the fridge charge! I bought new O-rings today for that job. Maybe the new Nissens condenser will continue to sleep in the attic, at least for another year!

I'm sure that many of us have had different experiences, but I for one have always considered Eldor to be good enough supplier of coils, lots of coil issues, I think, started when "wise" fully developed Europe based companies, moved their factories to other including maybe not quite so well developed European and other areas of the world where "guaranteed quality" seemed to slip once the newly started up plant got its approval. So far, since 2002, I've only had Eldor coil failure after maybe 80K miles and 8 years - and that was a total of 2 at different times, replaced with NOS Eldor, my wife's current car, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS has Eldor - Turkey, but so far so good at 40Kmiles and almost 8 years.

Okay, so the later 16V version, it does sound a bit like you remapped it up to stage 1 to try to get rid of that problem, is that correct?

Considering a software issue, most of the software issues will show up from day one, so I'd be sticking with suspecting it is just a radio issue or an aerial issue - of which there are a few parts, the aerial actual antenna(s) and its/their connections to the aerial amplifier, the aerial amplifier itself or any of its connections which are its inputs and output/power supply - the aerial output/power supply to/from the radio and finally the radio. Getting into the connections area of the radio and confirming that everything is still connected would be my first action, if everything looks okay, then maybe do as I did, and buy a very cheap DAB windscreen aerial complete with amplifier, and just connect the aerial to the radio without bothering to provide it with power. Doing that should narrow down the possibilities - if you are lucky!

Which is why I've suggested I've suggested buying a cheap windscreen DAB aerial, really to try to work out if it is the radio or the aerial.

Which version/code of engine is this, also what is the mileage now?

Maybe one way to check if it is an aerial issue, buy a cheap DAB car aerial and drape it over the passenger seat back and see if things improve over what the car's aerial "provides" - I did that for another reason, I bought a used DAB radio to replace a non-DAB radio in my old Audi S4, I did not even connect up the 12V supply to that cheap Halfords windscreen DAB aerial, I just plugged it into the aerial socket on that DAB radio - and the results were very good, as far as I was concerned, I only did that to quickly check that this used DAB Audi radio did work before I handed it in to get CP sorted out, and before I started retro fitting a DAB aerial as per factory.

I once put it into an L reg Ford Escort 1.3 van engine(must have been back in late 1977 or early 1978), I dropped some on the garage floor, it took ages wiping it up/off the concrete floor, it gripped like s--t to a blanket. A few weeks later we went to stay at friends overnight and the winter temperature was much lower than normal, next day battery could not turn over the engine fast enough, so, bought a "next size up" - maybe Granada battery, it didn't perform much better. So abandoned it and got the train home - roads were too slippery to attempt a tow-start. We returned a few days later after the temperature had come back up to normal winter temperature for that area of Scotland, it started easily, I drove it home, dropped out the oil and refilled with oil but without any daft special additives. I've never been tempted to try that sort of stuff ever again, still, a useful lesson learned.

If you look on the Awesome GTI website you will find that they include the Audi part numbers for the two parts that get used/fitted at each of the 4 points on the car.

I'd hope that the cheaper way to buy them is to get a local Audi dealership parts department to order them in for you, I'd think that is what I did - twice! Some of the "go faster bits" online shops sells them, like Awesome GTI .

That was good and easy money for that Skoda dealership! When my wife had a MK3 Ford Fiesta, it started "doing this crazy thing", when she switched the lights on, the front side and headlights worked okay - but the rear marker lights didn't, luckily a following motorist alerted her to this. This started happening about a month out of new car warranty, when I went to order in a new switch assembly, I complained to the dealer we bought it from, their "warranty officer" rejected my claim for financial help, but being me, I kept the failed wiper/lights switch combo with the sales receipt in its box with the original switch, in my garage. Just over a year later same thing happened again, I quickly bought another new switch and fitted it, but this time I wrote a recorded delivery letter to Ford UK and I included a copy of both sales receipts and pictures of the manufacturer date etc coding on both boxes. I snidely, maybe, "informed" them what many people considered F O R D stood for, two versions, Within a month they sent me out a "we are sorry" letter and a cheque covering the cost of both switch assemblies, that worked for me and the second replacement switch stayed working until we moved that car on many years latter. My point being, buyer/owners/users, should not really have to suffer "much cheapness" from their car maker - always worth fighting it, a bit, it is probably easier to buy off some moaners than suffer the fallout as people do tend to tell their friends all the bad news about their cars, ie share the pain! I'd think that in the case of the VW Group of marques, quite a bit of money is being invested into driving the cost of parts down beyond the point where it is not possible for the parts suppliers to provide parts of a quality and durability that matches their factory supply price or their retail price, but they need that business from VW Group so supply some less than acceptable bits. This must be, for VW Group, a very good plan and result as they normally do not recognise when quality/durability becomes an issue for their customers, ie there does not seem to be a VW Group word for "recall" and "repair FOC", quite a brilliant plan eh? Edit:- actually @Tedwood, you sound like you are an ideal customer for a dealership to have, lots of us are slightly different or troublesome, or just demanding fair play when paying good money.

Any/all VW Group main dealers parts department will order in any parts that you need. So far, it seems that the 1.0TSI engines are not subject to this assembly line error, maybe the 1.2TSI and 1.4TSI engine lines share common tooling and the 1.0TSI is different, I remember checking over the parts listing from the 1.0TSI and I think that it uses different bolts to hold the fuel rail down, so that might be enough to keep them clear of this problem.