rum4mo

No, you would only need a 16" steel spare wheel if you had bigger ie upgraded the front brakes, 15", as already said is what VW Group supply when they provide a spare wheel as standard. Lower powered Fabias ie ones with 256 or roughly that size of front discs, would get supplied with a 14" steel spare wheel. The rolling circumference of any these wheels when fitted with the "correct for that car" tyre, will be roughly the same. Edit:- obviously other aspects of the wheels need to be correct when fitting 15" wheels and same if able to fit 14" steel spares - ie rim width and offset.

Sorry I was dreaming, your car has a 1.0TSI engine, but what I suggested above still counts! Edit:- the O-ring seal for the end of that pressure pipe that seals it to the throttle body is WHT 007 498, and the O-ring at the other end of that pressure pipe that seals it to adaptor and also the same that seals the adaptor to the turbo O/L is WHT 001 386 - you should only need one of the O-rings at the turbo end of that pressure pipe as you will only need to remove the pressure pipe alone or complete with the adaptor. I'm suggesting that you remove the pressure pipe completely as doing that seemed, to me, to make life easier when refitting, and also allows you to wash the engine oil out of that pressure pipe, apply a spot of clean engine oil to these O-ring seals so that the pressure pipe can be fitted easier and so not damaging the new O-rings.

I'm guessing that that is an early 8V 1.2TSI engine, and I'd think that either the O-ring seal is allowing oil in the forced air to leak past it, or that pipe is cracked, or if there is a plastic adaptor on top of the throttle body, maybe that is cracked or its O-ring - if it has one, is leaking. That area really just needs cleaning up to help you work out exactly where the leak is..

A weak and/or under charged battery could cause this sort of thing to happen - as the battery's voltage will dip down when the starter motor is turning the engine over. VW Group call all the "computers" or "smart controllers", controllers, and there will be quite a few of them in your car, now if you had a good scan tool, like VCDS, you could check everyone of them for stored or logged fault codes - doing that might allow you to work out what was happening.

One easy way to find your car's engine code is to stuff your reg number into Opie Oils website - and possibly some others.

Skoda UK are being nasty cheating bar stewards, ask this question again, this time via recorded/tracked snail mail, and when they give the same answer in print, seek further advice - as well as shaming them publicly. Edit:- the only alternative to them being nasty cheating bar stewards, might be that Skoda engine plant has a bigger problem than they initially thought concerning this version of this pulley - it would have handy if you had asked for the removed pulley assembly to be returned to you - as evidence.

Just a comment in the passing, maybe for people who have not done this yet, the engine RHS mounting is sold by VW Group as a single assembled item, what exactly does the text supporting that "picture" from the official workshop manual say about this, maybe the red arrow is pointing this out, whereas the "!" group of bolts is instructing that they should be removed - and not that nut in the centre of the actual "silent block". I'm sure that I've read about this being the case - while "back street" workshops creating youtube videos just say "remove that nut and jack up the engine" - I can't say if or why removing that nut is a big issue though.

Not good! My wife runs an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI and I tend to scrub the threaded areas clean and apply grease, every year at service time - more in a bid to make it easy to re-adjust the toeing if it becomes necessary, this car is at around 42,000 miles and lots of salt is spread on our local roads in winter. I did replace the TREs on her previous October 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V at the 4.5 year point, but that was only due to me needing to replace the front springs and the TRE threads/nuts gave me a lot of grief. Later on, maybe at 10 years and 85,000 miles, I did replace the inner track rods due to "slackness" on one of them, doing that with the correct tool was very easy. At both times, I didn't find any unusual rusting on the track rood threads.

Yes, that covers all the usual parts that would be expected to be needed to fix a "snapped off fuel rail screw/bolt head", good to see that they saw fit to replace the 5 inlet manifold securing screws/bolts, I had not thought of needing to replace them, so I'll buy them in to add to kit of parts covering "removing the inlet manifold for fuel rail bolt checking/replacing"

I think, just think, that that part comes as part of the strut - I've only ever replaced 4 front struts and I don't remember having to swop that part over. Plus, when you look at that picture that you posted, if that part was easy to swop over, then it would also be sort of free to move up and off that position and so not really be able to do the job that it is meant to - the looks like the cap on the end of the strut is what keeps that plastic retainer in place. Edit:- so, maybe annoyingly, it might be a job for a plastic tie wrap.

I've had that "all covered by warranty so no need to provide a zero cost/charge bit of paperwork" - I just advised my VW main dealership that they had carried out work on my property, so I needed a breakdown of what work was carried out, for many reasons including just in case that failure occurred again, and even when just out of warranty - and they provided it. For the first "prepaid service" I had to push for paperwork, it came automatically for the 2nd and 3rd service though, so maybe a change of plan.

I've guessed it was an engine build plant output from at the earliest, for 1.2TSI engines of late 2015 lasting until at the worst week 25 2017 - which was the date, apparently, that Skoda recognised it and took action on assembly line tooling issue. A VW USA and so Canada TSB covering this is dated 23 February 2021, so it did take quite a bit of time for VW Group to spread the word internally and pass out recovery/preventative instructions to USA and Canada dealerships. My wife's VW Polo, built in ZA in 22/06/15 has an engine built by Skoda 07/05/15, so a difference of 6 weeks for a car built in South Africa, for Skoda Fabia built in CZ I would have expected a short time between engine build and car build. Balazs_HU's Octavia built in 2015 does seems to not quite fit in with the range of reported dates for EA211 1.2TSI though, I have not been watching any reporting of the EA211 1.4TSI engines with this issue, but logically the assembly lines would be able to build either capacity of engines but possibly dedicated to a single capacity of engine, and unless there was a serious line issue or a change in demand, I would have thought there would be lines and so assembly kits stayed configured like that - so just maybe, different actual production periods for the start and end of 1.4TSI issues and 1.2TSI issues. That 1.4TSI just seems to be an odd one date wise, so maybe some other reason for that one having leaking fuel, I've even read, maybe in this thread, that the only failure in one case was injector seals - if so that sounds like being a different issue and the fuel rail bolts remained in place on that engine.

I’m hoping that you will consider it “just common sense” to ask that main dealer’s workshop manager if he is considering asking Skoda UK for help to pay for this - before you formally ask Skoda UK about and that you submit a complaint on the DVSA website concerning this issue. i’m not trying to be insulting by using that phrase BTW. if you do all that, then I think that you will be the first owner on this forum to give Skoda a chance to give their current answer on this and pass that onto DVSA - and this forum.

I bought Lemforder ones from ECP for about the same price - the Lemforder ones still have the VW Group part number on them. The one that is closest to failing on my wife's 2015 VW Polo, is the OSF and it looks to be the centre metal part that is trying to escape from the mounting material. Just one comment, as you have not made this clear, there are 2 voids in these mountings and they are both different sizes/shapes, so, as well as making sure that the arrow points in the right direction/ orientation, the correct shaped void needs to be on the inner side and so on the outer side. VW Group, well at least VW, describe them in maybe a strange way - ie in using the shape of the voids to differentiate between the 2! Orientation of bonded bush detail.pdf

If this car has manual AC then it sounds like the usual fan speed controller failure, if you like taking things apart then you should be able to replace it, maybe Google this issue.

I just thought that it was an unusual comment as that guy is a “Ford and only Ford” person, so if anything I’d have expected him to keep that comment away from me. ”Good” on Ford for getting into this issue!

Yes, but still annoying to need to spend 175 quid on a factory build error that VW Group might even try to claim is "fair wear and tear" - and then there is the possible associated fire risk. I was told by a Ford Kuga owner and user of that forum, that Ford retro fitted a small tray/ducting to make sure when that sort of issue occurs, the leaking petrol is channelled away from the hot surfaces!!

Oh yes, I've done that and noticed that behaviour on both our cars with smart charging, one without Stop/Start and one with Stop/Start, the "car" is just harvesting the "excess" charge from the battery.

If you raised the engine revs to maybe 1500rpm just after starting this car, I’d expect the voltage to rise to over 14V. Also if you monitor the voltage at the “ciggy lighter” socket, and take the car for a run, after a mile or so, with the car on the over run, again the voltage should get up to over 14V. If the voltage is always 12.??V then the alternator output is not varying as expected for some reason.

If you have a VCDS and HEX-V2 interface, why don't you just download the latest issue of VCDS to start with, it will include a firmware update as well by now.

That is just the anti squeal shim that has lifted a bit. I'd be binning brake stuff a bit earlier than 21 years - I think, everything will have a finite service life.

My understanding is, it will be beneficial to the new battery to let the car know that the failing battery has been replaced - my wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with the same size of EFB, I thought that it was dying maybe 2 years ago, so I bought a "next size up" replacement Bosch AGM - I can see that battery ending up in my older daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra and her buying me a smaller, ie same size Bosch AGM as this Exide/VW Group factory fit battery in the Polo seems to be still okay. Also, that May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra with its original EFB Exide/VW Group battery, is normally used for in town driving (stupid I know), I tested its battery back in the Summer time and it looked like it was on its last legs - it has been dropping off in health over the past 2 years, then that car was driven down to London and back from Scotland, now, a month later, its battery is looking okay - how long that will last I don't know. Edit:- the thing is, unless a group of people with similar cars sorted themselves out into a group that DID code in the new battery and a group that DIDN'T code in the new battery, how would you know which was the right way to approach this, in my world I find it easier to do things as advised.

Sorry for missing your reply! Yes it does look like being the same thing. The “relaxed” diameter measurement would be what I measured it to be, so no worries there.

Just use a suitable rewind tool, to fully retract the pistons in a clockwise direction, obviously clean everything up using a small stiff brush and plenty brake cleaner, apply ceramic brake grease to the contact points only, make sure that the guide pins are still free to move in and out, if necessary clean them up and apply a stop of silicon grease to them. Either replace the bolts on the guide pins or scrub them clean and apply some blue Loctite to the last few threads. After putting everything back together, pump the pads out using the brake pedal then operate the handbrake firmly a few times to get the handbrake mechanism to its new correct starting point. As you have already worked on front discs brakes, I'll not insult you by giving you any advice on how to move the pads back initially so that you can get things apart. Edit:- I've not had a reason to need to replace the pads on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI yet, I just "service" all the brakes every other year and at 46,ooomiles, there is still plenty meat left on the pads - it will be when the discs need changing that I'll have to replace the pads as the rear discs in these cars have a hard life through lack of real braking work.

I bought a new genuine VW Group NOS a few years ago for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, "exhaust centre joining piece VW 1KO 253 141 M 59.6mm relaxed or open diameter - length 95mm". But, so far, that joining sleeve has not started to fail, I always plan to "keep an eye" on these centre joining sleeves at annual service time as they do fail after 8 > 9 years, replacing them soon after the clamps have rotted through is a lot easier than trying to remove still intact clamps. I think that VW Group has changed the design of these clamps and that was why I managed to buy a NOS genuine VW Group part via ebay. In the past I've bought after market versions cheaply and just "harvested" the clamps from them and left the original split sleeve on the car - I've still to find a use for maybe 4 redundant sleeve bits! Edit:- the convenient thing bout some VW Group cars/engines, is that there is a body cross brace near this exhaust join, which supports one end of the loose exhaust, from memory the end that benefits most from needing supported when the clamps fail. I'm not sure that this is true on this age of Fabia/Polo/Ibiza with the 1.2TSI 16V engines - correction, from your pictures it does!