rum4mo

I'm still tinkering after retirement, and still buying more tools! More risk averse than I used to be though.

@lewiswal47, did these rear mountings just tear the voided rubber part, or did the complete rubber part detach from the metal casing? Also how did you replace them, with the usual bespoke tool/press or other means, and finally did you manage to replace them just by removing the bolt and moving the lower arm round a bit. I bought the bespoke tool/press but so far have not had a proper reason to replace these mounting bushes, though I sort of plan to, when one of them starts to tear, replace them both with the Audi TT etc non voided version, I have just swopped winter>summer wheels today and that lower mounting is still intact on both sides! One side was replaced under warranty during the 2 year service, or close to then. One thing that I noticed is, if you have lots of suspension noises from rubbery parts, after you have jacked the car and placed on axle stands etc when you check over everything, on starting to use the car without changing anything, the annoying suspension noises will have vanished - for "a while", which makes sense as all the moving elements have been moved a lot more than they normally get moved while driving around. One thing that I did notice was, at 7 years and 10 months/43K miles, the rear bump stops are starting to break/tear just above where the pipe cover damper protector gets connected to them - which is about average age/miles for that part on these small VW Group cars, just a job that I should take care of soon now that I'm aware of this.

It is strange but it seems like some "could be" common parts or parts used across the 4 main VW Group marques, do not have the same quality/durability, Skoda and SEAT seem to suffer from window and door seals not "living" as long as you might hope or expect, while VW and Audi similar parts seem to last longer, might be just down to different suppliers or different country of manufacture. By the way, these window/door frame guides/seals do not and are not designed to stop water getting down into the door frame - there are drain holes on the lower end of the door frames to allow water to escape and waterproof membranes to protect the speakers and door cards etc. These parts should be able to be bought from any Skoda dealership parts department, they might need ordering in for you though.

Are you sure that it has started to degrade, cleaner air seems to have lead to more green algae "growing" on these window seals/dampers than used to be the case, I garage both our cars so don't have that problem, but my daughter's SEATs have both had this greening up going on, when I looked after her car while she was working in KL, I just cleaned that area up with a small stiff brush and maybe sometimes with a strong cleaner - it sounds like that part in your car needs the inner U channel cleaning as well to encourage it to seal against the glass on the inside of the car.

@LetsGo, or you sure that this is not just a "feature" or "behaviour" of modern small capacity turbo charged petrol engines, maybe even especially ones with 4 valves in each cylinder?

I'm too old for that, and also probably a bit jealous, I like the way my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 16V 110PS drives, maybe you'd need to have come from a car like a small VAG one with the 1.4 16V 75PS to appreciate just how good the small VAG cars with the 1.2TSI 16V 110PS are in comparison. Now, I wonder if I could improve the already impressive MPG of that Polo by getting it mapped to stage 1? (just dreaming)

I've used 22Nm - so that would have come from the official VW workshop manual for the engine.

I'd not bother about telling the leasing company as I'd doubt if they will be sorting that out before moving that car on, its just an asset number no more, also, I'd think that 9 out of 10 dealers would leave sorting that out to the next owner's warranty cover even if it was pointed out to them. Though absolutely do get the correct G12evo 50/50 premixed coolant into it - or someone might point out that you have not played your part in looking after it while under your control, ie cover your tracks.

The advice on the coolant reservoir is to check the owner's handbook, though the only coolant that VW Group dealership parts department sell now is G12evo, they will probably sell 1 litre containers of premixed 50/50 under the part number G12EVO50A2.

Please consider reporting this as an issue to DVSA or a similar gov website, it will only be numbers of genuine incidents that might force Gov to push for action on this sort of thing.

They are the 3 cylindrical things facing towards the left hand side of that picture, part of the turbo inlet piping from the air cleaner. The only acoustic engine cover thing or just dress engine cover, is only available from Aliexpress at very little cost, VW Group did not consider fitting it to these engines at the factory, so saved £5 or so - or £50 to the owner.

I'd think that the more expensive models/version will have some more sound insulation, but I've no idea if that applies or if it does, just how much it applies to Polo - Fabia - Ibiza, SEAT certainly used to have less sound insulation in their cars when compared to VW in this size of car, at least on the trim level of SEAT Ibiza we used to have in the family. Across the VW Group brands, there does seem to a variance in power train mounting "bush" part numbers.

My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT which I tend to drive most of the time, it has 44K miles on it from new and I've never thought that it was noisy, just normal - if that means anything.

I bought a set of 5 steel wheels fitted with winter tyres for my wife's 2002 VW Polo, the Polo at that time and maybe still, used small holes holes around the rim to secure the wheel trims, but I chose to fit a set of maybe older VW Golf wheel trims and they use the inside of the rim to grip onto, doing that worked out very well, maybe had to snip off some stand-offs from the VW Golf wheel trims, that is easy to do even using wire cutters. As said already, the black paint on typical steel wheels lasts no time and the wheels begin to look nasty quickly, so buying a set of used wheel trims worked for me, plus it is a lot easier to clean the wheel trims in winter to keep the car presentable. The other aspect of using wheel trims from an older and different car means that they are cheaper and more more available from the likes of ebay - so in your situation, I'd guess that you could find some wheel trims from an older Octavia that look okay. Edit:- with her next car, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, I bought a set of 4 used 15" VW Polo alloys from ebay Germany, almost as good as new, without tyres, and put Michelin Alpins on them - for winter only use, or maybe 6 months of the year.

The description of what you need to request maybe at the selling dealers' parts department, is "CAR DATA" - I've always asked for that to have every time someone in our family buys a new or used VW Group car, some dealer's parts department know where to access that from your reg, others play dumb and need to be giving a nudge! I could be wrong here, but I think that the minimum requirement for a car to have HillHold is to have an ESP compliant ABS controller, now I would have thought all modern VW Group car would have ESP and if so, why is Skoda being stupid and not enabling a system like that. Edit:- correction, why is Skoda not enabling a driver aid when everything built into the car is already in place - except ticking a box to allow it to operate.

Are you sure that it has not got the "light weight/cheap" version of HillHold - if you stop on an incline, and press, hold, then release the brake pedal, the car should be held on the brakes, all of them, for maybe 3,4 or 5 seconds, then release and the car will move down the incline. So, the plan is only to provide braking for the short time the driver needs to get their foot from the brake pedal to clutch pedal > down, then release, then off you move.

As I've probably said elsewhere, look out for 4 hardish plastic cover/bungs - as opposed to softish "rubber" covers/bungs, that is where I and some other people on various VW/Skoda/SEAT/Audi motoring forums have fitted Audi TT jacking point protectors - and locate a typical DIYer trolley jack under them locating the projecting protector in the cup/saddle of the DIYer trolley jack - then I locate axle stands fitted/adapted to suit, at the strong points using the correct areas of these strong points to take the weight of the car.

Fair enough - but that was a long time ago, I thought that you would have been back over and used it by now.

To find any HVAC fault codes, first you will need to use a VW Group compliant scan tool - ie a scan tool that can talk to all the controllers including the HVAC controller.

I took a gamble via ebay when buying from a dismantler - or from someone that said that they sourced their stuff from dismantlers, and it worked out okay, I think that they even included the source car's reg or VIN, but I didn't need to use that info. All very pain free to upgrade from nonDAB to DAB while keeping it "original" as DAB at the time my car was built, was an option.

When my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS back box outer skin started to "open up", I just bought a pair of SS Jubilee type bands from Halfords, really just to keep the outer skin closed so that it (a) hurt/injure MOT testers and (b) never to be in the position that it started to have bits fall off. That worked and continued working beyond when we traded it at 13 years and 105K miles, and we never ever got any comments/advisories on MOT while these bands were in use/place. I did make sure that I cut the excess banding off and rolled the end back on itself to remove any sharp edges. Milltek is good, I should change all the clamping bands on my own car as at roughly 12 years on from new, the steel bolts are rotting - I respect that Milltek used large sized steel bolts in their exhaust clamps for best strength, it just pays to be aware that they will be the first thing to fail, but maybe most cars that end up with Milltek exhausts don't last beyond 10/12 years after being fitted with them. VW Group exhaust joining sleeves clamps tend to have a typical life of 8/9 years - just something else to look out for, or be aware of, I've got a new ready for use when needed on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI!

If you can find a localish VW Group Indie, then they should have all the necessary kit and licences to sort that out, I've bought a used radio and checked it all worked before CP jumped in, and my local proper VW Group Indie sorted it out for maybe 20 or 30 minutes labour charge. Edit:- always remember that if it has been reported as being stolen, then a proper VW Group Indie will not be able to proceed - same as any VW Group main dealership workshop.

I’ve always thought that I’ve had that issue with my wife’s August 2015 VW Polo, I’ve tried opening the window and pressing the window sealing strip in, I think that that worked. For me it was just a shame as the car is overwise very quiet when driving.

In that situation so would I.

That price from "SEAT PARTS" for 5 litres of 50/50 premix is seriously cheaper than I paid over 2 years ago, I paid roughly £7.50 per litre bottle with, at that time, no option to buy 50/50 G12evo in 5 litre containers, somewhere was selling the more dilute 40/60 in 5 litre containers but for roughly £35.