rum4mo

Sorry to hear about this, please report this to VOSA on their website and that might, just might "jog" things on a bit, in your situation, when reporting to VOSA, this is one actual event that Skoda UK can not brush off as it is being worked on within their approved workshop network. Be sure to let us know about the outcome, ie costs if any needing to be handled by you and what Skoda UK has offered - if any, this is not a "time related wear and tear issue" it is an assembly issue at a Skoda managed engine plant in CZ! Edit:- okay, so maybe it is a "time related wear and tear issue" - but only in as much as that engine was not assembled as per the production procedures, so the torque being applied to these bolts was low and an unknown value, so that has lead to these bolts "walking out" and then the head popping off due to fatigue induced by them now being slackened off slightly. Another Edit:- I think that I should have suggested DVSA website for reporting that issue.

I was a bit annoyed with myself when I replaced the spark plugs on our younger daughter's 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS 6MT, after they had handed it in, down in London, for its year 4 service, it came back with a comment "we didn't replace the spark plugs this year due to the lowish mileage - we suggest that you get them replaced at next service", that was a VW Group Indie workshop, so I just bought a set of genuine VW Group branded NGKs and fitted them while they were visiting us up in Scotland - then thought "why don't I just replace the air filter early", I checked ECP price for a Mann air filter for that car, and it seems that this version of the 1.0TSI is too new for them to sell new air filters at a sensible price, so I just left it, if I had thought a bit more about this, I could have bought one online for a sensible price, but time had ran out for that! What I didn't need to discover was, that it looked a lot like that VW Group Indie had forced the air filter housing off the engine without releasing the retaining clip on the intake manifold rubber coupler part - so that is no longer part of the intake manifold! That has still to be sorted out back down in London now that I've provided them with the bits necessary for a workshop to do that job! The rubber coupler must get forced onto the intake manifold hard plastic part during initial manufacture of the intake manifold, and re-assembling it correctly now that it has been forced apart does not look to be a simple task - hence the reason that I got a new intake manifold bought in.

Have the brakes ever been serviced since this car was new, if not, probably time to do that now.

@AGFalco, I'm glad you posted that, it forced me to re-think what I had written ie "6 years" instead of "4 years", which is what I claimed was the spark plug and air filter change period - even although I went on to say that my approaching 8 years old car was due its 2nd spark plugs and air filter change, I have edited that posting now!

5 litres is easily enough and probably cheaper than buying in 1 litre sizes, I’m away from home so I can’t honestly quote the quantity of oil I load in. As you mentioned ECP I tend to buy Mann oil, air and pollens filters but some others will be okay as well. I’ve never bought engine oil from ECP other than the odd 1 litre to make up my total needs for my 2 cars, so I’ll not comment on that question.

No that was just for the Gen2 bearing tool, I bought F-A-G kits from Autodoc, £104.61 for 2 kits including delivery - that was a year ago.

For this engine, or at least the CJZD version, I've stuck with 5W-30 and seem to be happy to use Mobil One ESP on both our cars, spark plugs I replace at 4 years, so 2nd change this service which is due very soon, air filter also at 4 years, total mileage currently, for a mid August 2015 reg'd car is 45,000 miles. Fuel filter - I've not bothered about that, in fact Skoda at least dropped that "bit" from maybe 2017 onwards. In fact my wife ran a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 SE 75PS for 13 years and 105,000 miles, and while I did buy a new pressure regulator and filter etc, they still live on in the airing cupboard! So, if I were you, I'd not bother unless you are deliberately filling your car with fuel that has been used for washing parts! I did notice that my old 2011 Audi S4 got treated to Shell Helix Ultra 0W-20, I think, at its first service which was before I owned it, I changed it back to 5W-30 for when I serviced it and Audi tended to revert to a "lighter" oil when they serviced it (variable servicing and extended warranty), but since it has run out of warranty, it gets 5W-30 every year. Some day maybe I will start trusting these "lighter" oils, though their main "plus" seems to be very slightly reduced emissions, but that day has not come yet! Edit:- remember the "type" needs to include the VW 504 approval, or in some cases, aimed to be same as VW 504. VW 502 is probably okay for fixed miles/years, but I just aim to stick with VW504 and replace it and oil filter every 12 months as my annual mileage is roughly 7500 miles. Edited to correct my statement that air filter and plugs are due every 6 years - wrong car for that, so corrected to 4 years and that ties in with my "due their 2nd change very soon (for a car approaching 8 years old)

I just gambled on buying a cheap "made in China" GEN2 for 72mm bearings via ebay, a year ago it cost £65.50 - and it worked okay for the 2 bearings I replaced. The kit that I bought has no extra bits.

Yes, another report getting dismissed in respect of any real need to prevent this failure actually happening, as I found when I contacted them only as a "concerned owner", the trigger point for action has not been reached - yet, so "all is good" in their world. Edit:- there must be quite a few drivers that do not have a "good" sense of smell, or appreciate a drop in engine performance - and so "bash on" - but VW Group and DVSA are probably not bothered too much about them.

I'd think that there will be a couple of water pumps, the one covering the bulk of the coolant moving, which has its own small grooved/toothed belt and is driven on the rear of one of the cam shafts and located within/beside the coolant distribution or management bits and bobs, and an electric water pump which also operates as a "run on" pump to keep coolant circulating are the areas that get very hot, after the ignition is switched off.

Are you sure about that, I/ve not checked, but I thought that the fan is only run at high speed when the AC is turned on, the low/high speed is used to control the engine coolant only.

I think that by the time that I ordered up my first Gen2 bearing for a Polo last year, SKF, who might have been my bearing brand of choice, had done away with that means of locking the bearing in place, so as I couldn't fine much out as to why this "improvement" could be beneficial to me, I changed to buying bearing-hub sets from F-A-G as they still had a retaining ring.

Yes you are correct 36mm bi-hex works on these nuts, I played safe and bought a Draper deep impact strength socket as that meant getting a socket that had a thin enough wall to allow it down into the counterbore on the hub. I think that some people just bought a normal depth bi-hex socket and that worked.

That must be the best way of getting this fixed, so you should be in a position to get help from Skoda UK, to cover the costs or most of the costs to correct for the mess that their supplier created!

So far it has been claimed that the bolts are being under torqued, also, in at least one market that is addressing this sort of proactively, the requirement parts wise includes a new fuel rail where a single bolt has lost its head - so going by that, I'd think that any/all VW Group dealership workshop will be replacing the fuel rail to every car that comes their way with this fault, other workshops working in isolation and just sorting out a car with this issue, will probably look at the fuel rail and if the welded on tabs for the bolts seem to still end up at the correct point when offered up to the cylinder head, just reuse it with a high probability that "all is good". I think that VW Group struck lucky and no or very very few cars ended up needing repaired while under warranty - but that is just my gut feeling on this issue.

I'd think that it will be quite easy to work out why that fuel rail has ended up being bent, that garage is sensibly playing safe, understand that very high pressure fuel was in that fuel rail when that bolt head popped off so that left that end of the fuel rail unsupported with with high pressure fuel forcing it up and off the injector nearest that now broken bolt, and only supported at the next along bolt.

The typical thing that causes wiper issues on these Fabia/Polo/Ibiza/A1 of this version, is the switch assembly, though I'm not convinced that this is the problem in your case, if you had access to a good diagnostic tool like VCDS you could use that to check what is happening or not happening.

I think that in retrospect, I even considered removing some metal from the rear of the "fitting" rear plate/disc, but on that one, just grinding off a vertical slot down its inner face to be absolutely sure there was no chance of contact with the ABS sensor while pulling the bearing assembly into the hub. So I didn't do that as the ABS sensor on the second side was wrecked when the bearing was drawn out, so that remains "just an idea". Lucky you getting the ABS sensor out, I know that it looks easy to do as most if not all the YouTube videos show the ABS lead being unplugged(maybe), quickly remove the retaining screw, and lift it out! I'm sure that the wording in the official VW workshop manual I have ignores this task as it is assumed that they will always break up when removing them, so a new ABS sensor must be bought and fitted with the new hub-bearing - nice money for VW Group parts people, I think that I phoned for a quote for a new VW branded ABS sensor a year ago, and was given a price of £85 or £95, which at least was slightly cheaper than they charge for the VW branded hub-bearing assembly!!! One other tip, just make sure that you offer up/in the new bearing assembly as perfectly in line with the direction of travel that it needs to move or get pulled into the hub assembly, ie if you get sloppy and offer it up at an angle in either axis relative to the hub bore, you could end up jamming it in the bore as there will be nothing to "encourage" it to line itself up and so recover from that error. If carried out correctly, this job is a lot easier than I expected it to be. I noticed that you avoided removing the TRE from the hub, I did remove them, but I didn't bother removing the ARB drop links, so the hub assembly did fight me more than necessary and also storing the removed driveshaft safely is easier if I had removed the ARB drop links. One other comment, after finding the hub-suspension leg being a bit too free to move around while using that kit, I temporarily reconnected the lower arm to the hub-suspension leg assembly, doing that keeps the hub steady. Putting the new plastic deflector shields onto the driveshaft, at least the LHS one was impossible even although I cleaned the spherical end of that shaft up, so I just refitted the original one, I did get the RHS new one on though even although it was more rusted up than the LHS one, strange.

I couldn't really detect much if any issues with the front wheel bearing assemblies that I removed from my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI last August, which was a bit disappointing, still replacing both sides with F-A-G wheel hub sets got rid of the droning noise. Really do clean up the area that the bearing sits in well and right back to the rear lip, I used a spot of grease to help the second side in, the first one went in easily without any grease to help it. You can clean the ABS sensor hole out with a 10mm drill, and apply some suitable wheel bearing type grease around the "relieved" area of the ABS sensor and more at the top to try to stop water etc getting back down there. Edit:- I increased the depth of that cut away section as I found that was still too close to the ABS sensor, but unfortunately, on the RHS of that car, the ABS sensor got bent and so destroyed while pulling the bearing out, the LHS bearing, the first one that I replaced, came out okay without damaging the ABS sensorand before I had done any extra work on that "removing" rear disc/plate.

I don't want to panic you, but it sounds a lot like one of the cam shaft variable pulleys is "coming apart" due to bolts slackening off, so try hard not to use this car and get it taken to a workshop that understands these engines. To explain more, the medium used to vary the cam shaft timing is the pressurised engine oil - and it is that that will be leaking out from between the slackened off fixing bolts - this is yet another VW Group disgrace! Good Luck and please keep us posted on progress. Edit:- sorry, I see that you know about this, so hopefully it gets fixed before things fall apart and cause damage to that engine.

I'd think that you would have had to work around not having the correct tooling to get the injector clip part off/on, but that is just a calculated guess.

If you look on ebay, there are usually quite a few traders selling complete wheel bolt covers, so that means 16 basic ones for 17mm bolt heads and 4 round ones for the security bolts., buy a "cap remover tool" as well, there is a VW Group plastic one available.

Good stuff, unfortunately yet another one that has escaped the VW Group service/repair loop - so not accepted as being their problem - but that is the way things go when you need it back on the road ASAP.

Any progress on this yet?

Charcoal filter (and pipes) and fuel pressure sensor lead removed? (taken from the script covering removing the inlet manifold). Edit:- well EVAP solenoid stuff! Inlet manifold sensor lead, TB module lead.