rum4mo

I’m hoping that you will consider it “just common sense” to ask that main dealer’s workshop manager if he is considering asking Skoda UK for help to pay for this - before you formally ask Skoda UK about and that you submit a complaint on the DVSA website concerning this issue. i’m not trying to be insulting by using that phrase BTW. if you do all that, then I think that you will be the first owner on this forum to give Skoda a chance to give their current answer on this and pass that onto DVSA - and this forum.

I bought Lemforder ones from ECP for about the same price - the Lemforder ones still have the VW Group part number on them. The one that is closest to failing on my wife's 2015 VW Polo, is the OSF and it looks to be the centre metal part that is trying to escape from the mounting material. Just one comment, as you have not made this clear, there are 2 voids in these mountings and they are both different sizes/shapes, so, as well as making sure that the arrow points in the right direction/ orientation, the correct shaped void needs to be on the inner side and so on the outer side. VW Group, well at least VW, describe them in maybe a strange way - ie in using the shape of the voids to differentiate between the 2! Orientation of bonded bush detail.pdf

If this car has manual AC then it sounds like the usual fan speed controller failure, if you like taking things apart then you should be able to replace it, maybe Google this issue.

I just thought that it was an unusual comment as that guy is a “Ford and only Ford” person, so if anything I’d have expected him to keep that comment away from me. ”Good” on Ford for getting into this issue!

Yes, but still annoying to need to spend 175 quid on a factory build error that VW Group might even try to claim is "fair wear and tear" - and then there is the possible associated fire risk. I was told by a Ford Kuga owner and user of that forum, that Ford retro fitted a small tray/ducting to make sure when that sort of issue occurs, the leaking petrol is channelled away from the hot surfaces!!

Oh yes, I've done that and noticed that behaviour on both our cars with smart charging, one without Stop/Start and one with Stop/Start, the "car" is just harvesting the "excess" charge from the battery.

If you raised the engine revs to maybe 1500rpm just after starting this car, I’d expect the voltage to rise to over 14V. Also if you monitor the voltage at the “ciggy lighter” socket, and take the car for a run, after a mile or so, with the car on the over run, again the voltage should get up to over 14V. If the voltage is always 12.??V then the alternator output is not varying as expected for some reason.

If you have a VCDS and HEX-V2 interface, why don't you just download the latest issue of VCDS to start with, it will include a firmware update as well by now.

That is just the anti squeal shim that has lifted a bit. I'd be binning brake stuff a bit earlier than 21 years - I think, everything will have a finite service life.

My understanding is, it will be beneficial to the new battery to let the car know that the failing battery has been replaced - my wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI with the same size of EFB, I thought that it was dying maybe 2 years ago, so I bought a "next size up" replacement Bosch AGM - I can see that battery ending up in my older daughter's May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra and her buying me a smaller, ie same size Bosch AGM as this Exide/VW Group factory fit battery in the Polo seems to be still okay. Also, that May 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra with its original EFB Exide/VW Group battery, is normally used for in town driving (stupid I know), I tested its battery back in the Summer time and it looked like it was on its last legs - it has been dropping off in health over the past 2 years, then that car was driven down to London and back from Scotland, now, a month later, its battery is looking okay - how long that will last I don't know. Edit:- the thing is, unless a group of people with similar cars sorted themselves out into a group that DID code in the new battery and a group that DIDN'T code in the new battery, how would you know which was the right way to approach this, in my world I find it easier to do things as advised.

Sorry for missing your reply! Yes it does look like being the same thing. The “relaxed” diameter measurement would be what I measured it to be, so no worries there.

Just use a suitable rewind tool, to fully retract the pistons in a clockwise direction, obviously clean everything up using a small stiff brush and plenty brake cleaner, apply ceramic brake grease to the contact points only, make sure that the guide pins are still free to move in and out, if necessary clean them up and apply a stop of silicon grease to them. Either replace the bolts on the guide pins or scrub them clean and apply some blue Loctite to the last few threads. After putting everything back together, pump the pads out using the brake pedal then operate the handbrake firmly a few times to get the handbrake mechanism to its new correct starting point. As you have already worked on front discs brakes, I'll not insult you by giving you any advice on how to move the pads back initially so that you can get things apart. Edit:- I've not had a reason to need to replace the pads on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI yet, I just "service" all the brakes every other year and at 46,ooomiles, there is still plenty meat left on the pads - it will be when the discs need changing that I'll have to replace the pads as the rear discs in these cars have a hard life through lack of real braking work.

I bought a new genuine VW Group NOS a few years ago for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, "exhaust centre joining piece VW 1KO 253 141 M 59.6mm relaxed or open diameter - length 95mm". But, so far, that joining sleeve has not started to fail, I always plan to "keep an eye" on these centre joining sleeves at annual service time as they do fail after 8 > 9 years, replacing them soon after the clamps have rotted through is a lot easier than trying to remove still intact clamps. I think that VW Group has changed the design of these clamps and that was why I managed to buy a NOS genuine VW Group part via ebay. In the past I've bought after market versions cheaply and just "harvested" the clamps from them and left the original split sleeve on the car - I've still to find a use for maybe 4 redundant sleeve bits! Edit:- the convenient thing bout some VW Group cars/engines, is that there is a body cross brace near this exhaust join, which supports one end of the loose exhaust, from memory the end that benefits most from needing supported when the clamps fail. I'm not sure that this is true on this age of Fabia/Polo/Ibiza with the 1.2TSI 16V engines - correction, from your pictures it does!

Personally, I wouldn't bother making this unfortunate issue any more painful than it already is. You would need to be able to prove that no one did anything to that car to contribute to this failure, Skoda don't need to prove it provided you with a faulty car, well that is the way I'd look at this.

I'm sure that I read that somewhere, maybe even in the driver's manual, certainly, when the alarm on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI was triggered, probably by a passing truck while that car was parked in a pub cark park, that had never happened before, and never again in the following maybe 2 years, on that occasion, as I had remembered that fact, I did check the flashing of the LED, and it was flashing quicker than normal. One of the bar staff did ask who owned the silver Polo as its alarm had gone off - and that was my wife's car, so this was not just me guessing.

Does the flashing rate of the driver's door LED not indicate if there has been an alarm being triggered event(s), even although, by law, it will have reset the "horn" if connected and the indicators flashing? Edit:- ie the LED will remain flashing at a higher rate than normal until the car alarm has been switched off by unlocking the car.

Whoops, wrong thread! Or even wrong forum!! Deleted.

Yes that earth post is painted, but, I've found that as you tend to use a clip that has sharp teeth on it, clamping that to that earth post and maybe moving it around a bit, will provide a good enough connection to let you change the battery, other than that, fix the -VE clamp of the charger to the metalwork of the engine. Edit:- I bought a used Audi earth post a few years ago, as they are plated and so don't end up getting painted, but I think that I'll need to drill out the thread in it and increase the thread size before it can get fitted to my wife's Polo - as it looks like the earth post in your picture is fixing to a bigger size of stud. Just another job in progress!!

My only VW Group remote cell battery brand is Panasonic as is what was fitted originally, always worked for me, some people like to buy large "cards" of button cell batteries for next to no money!

If you have a BMS "lump" on the battery -VE then coding in a new battery is the correct thing to do, the general rule tends to be "has it got auto Stop/Start" but early on smart charging etc came before auto Stop/Start and all smart charging meant having a module on the battery -VE, so checking for that is the best plan - this module on the battery -VE will have a plug/socket and so a cable coming away from it.

Ah, the intake elbow on the turbo on the 1.0TSI, well, my younger daughter and her hubby have a used 2019 SEAT Arona 1.0TSI 115PS, they handed it in to a local "german car" specialist for its year 4 service, and included in that service was a "remove and check the condition of the air cleaner element" not something that I would expect to get done - why remove and check when it is due replacement at year 6 service, either remove and replace with a new element or don't touch it. Anyway, 3 months later, they came up 500+miles to stay with us and I had bought a new set of spark plugs, so I went to fit them. I removed/moved the constant tension band on each side of the air cleaner assembly and eased it up off the 3 mounting points, then walked to one side to lay it down - and heard something drop off - the top section of that inlet manifold had been ripped off the hard plastic lower section and it was only possibly the fact that the top part had never been separated from the air cleaner since factory line assembly, that meant that that part, while loose and almost free to separate from the air cleaner still stayed with the rubbery top section of the intake manifold for a few seconds before dropping off. I didn't expect that and didn't think that I could have forced that rubbery top part back onto the hard plastic elbow, so just tried to make sure that it was sitting as close to the hard plastic as possible when everything was back in place, they were driving back down to London the next day, so the best that I could do was to get a new intake manifold ordered in locally, really so that I could satisfy my curiosity of how firmly the two parts of that intake manifold are fixed together, before posting it down to them with the advice that "get it handed in ASAP to get sorted out" - that is still to happen as they seem to have busy lives, I'm suggested no pointing of fingers, what has been done has been done, just pay that garage to fit that new part and hand them back the old two bits and send them back up to me so that I can have a look at them, crap happens, move on. Edit:- by the way, I've already removed the air cleaner from my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI twice, so it wasn't me that used EXTREME force to get that air cleaner, probably with its output constant tension band still on out and off the top of that engine.

I should have included that the control stalk could also be a contender, many failures across the VW Group marques for this size of car, well at least in the early days of this model.

There will be a relay but it will be built into a control module, have you checked to make sure that there is not a wiring failure probably where the wires pass between the body of the car and the rear hatch? Also maybe any wiring fault has caused a fuse to blow. So a few things to consider before buying another wiper assembly.

Probably best taking the bigger money hit and handing it into either a proper VW Group Indie or a Skoda workshop as they should have a better idea of why this is happening. Too late to ask now, but did that local garage check the EVAP valve to make sure it was actually faulty. Maybe include your engine type - and code if possible.

For anyone else needing to do this sort of thing, maybe get hold of a pair of hooked tools and insert them through to the back of the vent assembly, and pull both at the same time. Some VW Group marques/models, have holes in the body of these vents there specifically to help with removing these vents, and so you just use a suitable L shaped or hooked tool to pull the vents out, I did that on my old 2011 Audi S4, initially using an suitably sized allen key gripped with pliers or visegrips, once I found examined the first one I removed, I used something more suitable to remove the next vent.