rum4mo

Did you refill the coolant system with G12evo and how much did it take to refill it? I really must remove the inlet manifold on my wife’s August 2015 Polo 1.2TSI, and check it's fuel rail bolts and refill it with G12evo. I’ve bought a used AC pipe - expansion valve to condenser, as I’ve finally worked out that maybe that pipe is leaking very slightly where the flexi section is joined to the alloy section. I’d always only considered that oil that appeared on that pipe originally when that car was under warranty, and I have been assuming that it is engine oil that escaped onto it when in fact it just might be fridge oil weeping out - along with the fridge charge! I bought new O-rings today for that job. Maybe the new Nissens condenser will continue to sleep in the attic, at least for another year!

I'm sure that many of us have had different experiences, but I for one have always considered Eldor to be good enough supplier of coils, lots of coil issues, I think, started when "wise" fully developed Europe based companies, moved their factories to other including maybe not quite so well developed European and other areas of the world where "guaranteed quality" seemed to slip once the newly started up plant got its approval. So far, since 2002, I've only had Eldor coil failure after maybe 80K miles and 8 years - and that was a total of 2 at different times, replaced with NOS Eldor, my wife's current car, a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS has Eldor - Turkey, but so far so good at 40Kmiles and almost 8 years.

Okay, so the later 16V version, it does sound a bit like you remapped it up to stage 1 to try to get rid of that problem, is that correct?

Considering a software issue, most of the software issues will show up from day one, so I'd be sticking with suspecting it is just a radio issue or an aerial issue - of which there are a few parts, the aerial actual antenna(s) and its/their connections to the aerial amplifier, the aerial amplifier itself or any of its connections which are its inputs and output/power supply - the aerial output/power supply to/from the radio and finally the radio. Getting into the connections area of the radio and confirming that everything is still connected would be my first action, if everything looks okay, then maybe do as I did, and buy a very cheap DAB windscreen aerial complete with amplifier, and just connect the aerial to the radio without bothering to provide it with power. Doing that should narrow down the possibilities - if you are lucky!

Which is why I've suggested I've suggested buying a cheap windscreen DAB aerial, really to try to work out if it is the radio or the aerial.

Which version/code of engine is this, also what is the mileage now?

Maybe one way to check if it is an aerial issue, buy a cheap DAB car aerial and drape it over the passenger seat back and see if things improve over what the car's aerial "provides" - I did that for another reason, I bought a used DAB radio to replace a non-DAB radio in my old Audi S4, I did not even connect up the 12V supply to that cheap Halfords windscreen DAB aerial, I just plugged it into the aerial socket on that DAB radio - and the results were very good, as far as I was concerned, I only did that to quickly check that this used DAB Audi radio did work before I handed it in to get CP sorted out, and before I started retro fitting a DAB aerial as per factory.

I once put it into an L reg Ford Escort 1.3 van engine(must have been back in late 1977 or early 1978), I dropped some on the garage floor, it took ages wiping it up/off the concrete floor, it gripped like s--t to a blanket. A few weeks later we went to stay at friends overnight and the winter temperature was much lower than normal, next day battery could not turn over the engine fast enough, so, bought a "next size up" - maybe Granada battery, it didn't perform much better. So abandoned it and got the train home - roads were too slippery to attempt a tow-start. We returned a few days later after the temperature had come back up to normal winter temperature for that area of Scotland, it started easily, I drove it home, dropped out the oil and refilled with oil but without any daft special additives. I've never been tempted to try that sort of stuff ever again, still, a useful lesson learned.

If you look on the Awesome GTI website you will find that they include the Audi part numbers for the two parts that get used/fitted at each of the 4 points on the car.

I'd hope that the cheaper way to buy them is to get a local Audi dealership parts department to order them in for you, I'd think that is what I did - twice! Some of the "go faster bits" online shops sells them, like Awesome GTI .

That was good and easy money for that Skoda dealership! When my wife had a MK3 Ford Fiesta, it started "doing this crazy thing", when she switched the lights on, the front side and headlights worked okay - but the rear marker lights didn't, luckily a following motorist alerted her to this. This started happening about a month out of new car warranty, when I went to order in a new switch assembly, I complained to the dealer we bought it from, their "warranty officer" rejected my claim for financial help, but being me, I kept the failed wiper/lights switch combo with the sales receipt in its box with the original switch, in my garage. Just over a year later same thing happened again, I quickly bought another new switch and fitted it, but this time I wrote a recorded delivery letter to Ford UK and I included a copy of both sales receipts and pictures of the manufacturer date etc coding on both boxes. I snidely, maybe, "informed" them what many people considered F O R D stood for, two versions, Within a month they sent me out a "we are sorry" letter and a cheque covering the cost of both switch assemblies, that worked for me and the second replacement switch stayed working until we moved that car on many years latter. My point being, buyer/owners/users, should not really have to suffer "much cheapness" from their car maker - always worth fighting it, a bit, it is probably easier to buy off some moaners than suffer the fallout as people do tend to tell their friends all the bad news about their cars, ie share the pain! I'd think that in the case of the VW Group of marques, quite a bit of money is being invested into driving the cost of parts down beyond the point where it is not possible for the parts suppliers to provide parts of a quality and durability that matches their factory supply price or their retail price, but they need that business from VW Group so supply some less than acceptable bits. This must be, for VW Group, a very good plan and result as they normally do not recognise when quality/durability becomes an issue for their customers, ie there does not seem to be a VW Group word for "recall" and "repair FOC", quite a brilliant plan eh? Edit:- actually @Tedwood, you sound like you are an ideal customer for a dealership to have, lots of us are slightly different or troublesome, or just demanding fair play when paying good money.

Any/all VW Group main dealers parts department will order in any parts that you need. So far, it seems that the 1.0TSI engines are not subject to this assembly line error, maybe the 1.2TSI and 1.4TSI engine lines share common tooling and the 1.0TSI is different, I remember checking over the parts listing from the 1.0TSI and I think that it uses different bolts to hold the fuel rail down, so that might be enough to keep them clear of this problem.

I'm still tinkering after retirement, and still buying more tools! More risk averse than I used to be though.

@lewiswal47, did these rear mountings just tear the voided rubber part, or did the complete rubber part detach from the metal casing? Also how did you replace them, with the usual bespoke tool/press or other means, and finally did you manage to replace them just by removing the bolt and moving the lower arm round a bit. I bought the bespoke tool/press but so far have not had a proper reason to replace these mounting bushes, though I sort of plan to, when one of them starts to tear, replace them both with the Audi TT etc non voided version, I have just swopped winter>summer wheels today and that lower mounting is still intact on both sides! One side was replaced under warranty during the 2 year service, or close to then. One thing that I noticed is, if you have lots of suspension noises from rubbery parts, after you have jacked the car and placed on axle stands etc when you check over everything, on starting to use the car without changing anything, the annoying suspension noises will have vanished - for "a while", which makes sense as all the moving elements have been moved a lot more than they normally get moved while driving around. One thing that I did notice was, at 7 years and 10 months/43K miles, the rear bump stops are starting to break/tear just above where the pipe cover damper protector gets connected to them - which is about average age/miles for that part on these small VW Group cars, just a job that I should take care of soon now that I'm aware of this.

It is strange but it seems like some "could be" common parts or parts used across the 4 main VW Group marques, do not have the same quality/durability, Skoda and SEAT seem to suffer from window and door seals not "living" as long as you might hope or expect, while VW and Audi similar parts seem to last longer, might be just down to different suppliers or different country of manufacture. By the way, these window/door frame guides/seals do not and are not designed to stop water getting down into the door frame - there are drain holes on the lower end of the door frames to allow water to escape and waterproof membranes to protect the speakers and door cards etc. These parts should be able to be bought from any Skoda dealership parts department, they might need ordering in for you though.

Are you sure that it has started to degrade, cleaner air seems to have lead to more green algae "growing" on these window seals/dampers than used to be the case, I garage both our cars so don't have that problem, but my daughter's SEATs have both had this greening up going on, when I looked after her car while she was working in KL, I just cleaned that area up with a small stiff brush and maybe sometimes with a strong cleaner - it sounds like that part in your car needs the inner U channel cleaning as well to encourage it to seal against the glass on the inside of the car.

@LetsGo, or you sure that this is not just a "feature" or "behaviour" of modern small capacity turbo charged petrol engines, maybe even especially ones with 4 valves in each cylinder?

I'm too old for that, and also probably a bit jealous, I like the way my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI 16V 110PS drives, maybe you'd need to have come from a car like a small VAG one with the 1.4 16V 75PS to appreciate just how good the small VAG cars with the 1.2TSI 16V 110PS are in comparison. Now, I wonder if I could improve the already impressive MPG of that Polo by getting it mapped to stage 1? (just dreaming)

I've used 22Nm - so that would have come from the official VW workshop manual for the engine.

I'd not bother about telling the leasing company as I'd doubt if they will be sorting that out before moving that car on, its just an asset number no more, also, I'd think that 9 out of 10 dealers would leave sorting that out to the next owner's warranty cover even if it was pointed out to them. Though absolutely do get the correct G12evo 50/50 premixed coolant into it - or someone might point out that you have not played your part in looking after it while under your control, ie cover your tracks.

The advice on the coolant reservoir is to check the owner's handbook, though the only coolant that VW Group dealership parts department sell now is G12evo, they will probably sell 1 litre containers of premixed 50/50 under the part number G12EVO50A2.

Please consider reporting this as an issue to DVSA or a similar gov website, it will only be numbers of genuine incidents that might force Gov to push for action on this sort of thing.

They are the 3 cylindrical things facing towards the left hand side of that picture, part of the turbo inlet piping from the air cleaner. The only acoustic engine cover thing or just dress engine cover, is only available from Aliexpress at very little cost, VW Group did not consider fitting it to these engines at the factory, so saved £5 or so - or £50 to the owner.

I'd think that the more expensive models/version will have some more sound insulation, but I've no idea if that applies or if it does, just how much it applies to Polo - Fabia - Ibiza, SEAT certainly used to have less sound insulation in their cars when compared to VW in this size of car, at least on the trim level of SEAT Ibiza we used to have in the family. Across the VW Group brands, there does seem to a variance in power train mounting "bush" part numbers.

My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT which I tend to drive most of the time, it has 44K miles on it from new and I've never thought that it was noisy, just normal - if that means anything.