rum4mo

I'm trying to find this information out for a May 2019 SEAT Arona 1.1TSI 115PS, it has Iridium plugs or so the VW Group copied parts listing claims. I'm just trying to get the service parts replaced when recommended by VW Group for this car/engine, I'll add in the air filter to that as well, it is my younger daughter and husband's first car and they know zip all about car servicing needs, so I'm just trying to be a useful father Okay nothing wrong with making our own minds up and sticking with 4 years at that sort of annual mileage - but it would be useful to know what VW Group recommend. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, another EA211 engine, does not have Iridium plugs and the recommendation for it is 4 years XK miles for plugs and air filter, so this year is its second plugs and filter change. I get the feeling that you are considering that if a car has Iridium plugs, then the recommended change period is longer - that is my way of thinking and so why I'm trying to find this out as well. Edit:- what is your engine code?

Exactly, I had worked that out after reading that posting from the newish Karoq - before that I lived in ignorant bliss, maybe. I think that I still have a few spare repair "washers" for exhaust heat shields - I made up quite a few from food tins when I first needed to sort out that issue many years ago.

Yup, I've used it where a cheap scan tool could not find stored OBD2 codes on a Renault Clio and a SAAB but really most "interesting" engine related fault codes are "manufacturer specific".

My 2011 old S4 has alloy dust shields, even although I know the issues with aluminium alloy heat shields and steel retainers well, I had so far failed to consider that these aluminium alloy dust shields will suffer in the same way, ie dissimilar metals, hum, maybe I should check them when changing the winter/summer wheels over! That happening on a 2019 car with only 30K miles is a bit much to take, even up here where rock salt is regularly spread on the roads - though I think that councils roads department are now just getting rid of stocks of salt to create space for other things, plenty salt was laid down early Saturday morning it seems. Edit:- at least the identification marking have survived on that corroded dust shield!!

Being a bit risk averse, I was thinking "concerning"! Though maybe it was to make sure that VW USA workshops know that G12evo has not replaced all coolants, just coolant in internal combustion cars. It would be handy to know what exactly it meant though.

@EnterName, where did you get the sticky label denoting that G12evo 50/50 was in that cooling system? Ah, I think that you just cut a bit of the sticky labelling on the bottles, why didn't I think about doing that! (still I do have 4 bottles still in the garage, so I'll consider doing that)

Sorry for dragging this on even further, I sort of remember that the first car that we had that had a lanyard, a 2002 VW Polo, the material that the lanyard was made of was very supple and lasted the 13 years/105K miles we had that car. My daughter's 2009 SEAT Ibiza appeared new with a horrible stiffer plastic sort of lanyard, and when I ended up looking after it when she worked abroad, it came at maybe 5 years and 25ishK miles with that lanyard snapped/broken - that did not surprise me after seeing that nasty newer lanyard material when it was new! Now we have 2 newer cars and that daughter and her sister also have newer cars all VW Group - and so with this newer probably cheaper nasty looking lanyard material, for me, that is the main reason why I don't make the effort, when fuelling my wife's 2015 Polo, to make use of the cut outs on the cap - as the memory and its strength of the shaped lanyard, makes it clear that it would rather not be sitting on the fuelling flap - it would rather jump free and land on the paint work, so I save it the effort!

I remember seeing someone selling G12evo 40/60 in bulk, probably 5ltrs on ebay, and thinking that that was what I'd buy when replacing the coolant in my old 2011 S4 - then suddenly became aware that that car left the factory with a 50/50 coolant mix, and so I changed my plan to buying G12evo from my local VW Van Centre by the litre bottle in 50/50 form which was what was being sold - it would have been cheaper if I had just bought premixed 40/60, but at that time I could not find 40/60 pre mixed in the parts listing for VW marques, only 50/50 premixed - so I guessed that VW AG had initially put 40/60 into the market place then had a rethink and only supplied 50/50.

I was wrong in my last posting, my wife's 2015 VW Polo does have 4 cut outs on its fuel cap - as well as a lanyard.

So these car will have been filled with G13 coolant mix at the factory, it seems to be that someone worked out that at least for some engines, trickle feeding the G13 with extra Silicate is needed to retain the initial corrosion protection. Some years ago I bought a tin of "coolant test strips" these have 2 areas on them, one area for checking %age of coolant-water and the other area for checking the ph of the coolant, ie how it is degrading towards being acidic from initially being slightly alkaline - now these strips are now out with their recommended "use by" date, but as I have them I am continuing to use them, and what I discovered was, the old G12+ or G12++ tended to stay slightly alkaline over a period of 12 years, and the 2 cars that I check that have G13 in them, are moving towards being acidic, even the car that has a silicate pouch still in it - the other G13 car was not fitted with a silicate pouch at the factory. Okay that is only a sample of 3 cars, one with G12+/G12++, one with G13 and no silicate pouch and one with G13 and a silicate pouch. The car with the G12+/G12++ I changed to G12 evo maybe 2 years ago, the car with G13 and no pouch, I plan to change to G12evo as it is 8 years old and 40+K miles, the car with G13 and a silicate pouch - well I've suggested that the pouch might be better being removed and then change the coolant to G12evo, but its owner does not like spending money where it is not absolutely needing to be spent. I'm not sure if I'm pleased or not that I made the effort to buy in from USA these coolant test strips, but as I did buy them, I am using keeping on using them. Back in the "good old days" it was easy to work out when to replace coolant as the cambelts needing replacing frequently and on older engines, the smart money was on changing the cambelt driven water pump at every other cambelt change - and so the coolant was renewed.

I seem to remember that the 2002 VW Polo my wife used to have, did have the earlier style of fuel cap that maybe had the lanyard tightly fitted into a groove on the top of the cap, did have these cut outs in the cap that allowed you to park it on the open fuel flap. I'm sure that her 2015 VW Polo that has the later fuel cap with the free running hard plastic ring that the lanyard connects to, does not have any cut outs in the cap - progress, maybe. Edit:- I was wrong, that 2015 VW Polo does have the 4 cut outs in its fuel cap as well as the lanyard.

Fancy that, that is how things are with my 2011 Audi S4, so the clock has been changed back to maybe 2008 or 2009 when the B8 version of Audi A4 was launched - or maybe even before on some VW Group marques. VW Group seem to work or go round in circles sometimes, or maybe spirals.

@GerrycanGood plan, I'll try selling that idea to Laser Tools!

My wife's car is an August reg'd Polo 1.2TSI, so I have that "treat" coming my way in a few months! I did buy a small rack type tool to open up these large strong clips, it works very well for that job which was I think, I've intended target job - it is also very handle for releasing heater hoses on B8 Audis and no doubt in other cars/places. Getting the spark plug electrodes in exactly the correct orientation, ha ha, must need special tools!

A very very small point on the way the rear wiper works on VW Group cars, if the front wipers are left in auto and being asked to work, then when you select reverse the rear wiper will operate, and its operation is always fixed period intermittent. If you have got lot of Auto qualifications and practical knowledge then the best you can hope for is that you have proactively addressed any areas that are liable to cause problems when out and about. Years ago I used to carry a lot of loads, but now I only have a Carista dongle in each of our cars, a torch and something to check for 12V DC and OV, oh and a set of bulbs with where necessary laminated details of "how to get to" any tricky ones - although both cars have mostly LED and/or HID plus I've actually made sure that I can get to every bulb in each car and have the extra tools to do that. Including a quick rocker change is what an old uncle of mine used to build into going out with the family for a picnic in his HB Viva, for me, a quick do what you can, then call the AA life must go on!

Maybe kept and used near and/or in the sea or connected with it, my mate almost bought a SAAB 96 when they were still on sale, beautiful condition - except for inside the boot, the owner spent most of his spare time diving in the sea, and it looked like the boot was where all his kit was stored. Again, walk on by it.

I'm sure that I came across that sort of value on my daughter's 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra, but in the event, I considered that it only needed new rear pads and the discs would be okay for use with these 2nd set of pads at a low mileage, so I didn't need to take the rear carrier bolts out. Edit:- from memory, I would have been buying new bolts to replace the rear carrier mounting bolts if I had had to remove them as in my mind, tightening to these torques, then + an angle setting justifies doing that - as well as maybe the bolt head would have suffered from corrosion, so maybe not so easy to get off next time - that is all. Actually as you mentioned it, that 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra rear carrier bolts were also 90Nm +90deg, and the front carrier bolts were 200Nm with new bolts required on re-assembly.

I've just added a bit on to my last posting.

You initially torque the bolts up using a suitable torque wrench, then using something like a breaker bar, rotate ie turn these bolts through the additional angle, it can be helpful to mark the 0 degrees reference point on the bolt head and adjacent metalwork, then mark the "+Y degrees" on the adjacent metalwork, so that you can check when you have reached the defined/mandated extra angle. Edit:- I have come across in the past, for a common bolt torque setting on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza was defined/mandated as being X Nm and no additional angular - but the same bolt (same part number) securing the same assembly was defined/mandated as being Y Nm and additional Z degrees, on 2015 VW Polo, obviously the Polo's "Y Nm" was a lot lower than the Ibiza's "X Nm" - a seriously lower value, in fact in that case, I contacted Haynes publishing to ask if these two different values and conditions for torquing were correct and they did confirm that they were, which for big multi marque company using common parts, did seem a bit strange.

There will or could be different advice for different versions of these brakes, your "info" shows a 2014 Oct VRS MK3, I was referring to a 2015 VW Polo where the carrier to hub are M10 bolts with recommended torque of 30Nm + 30deg according to erWin - and not 90Nm + 90deg according to Haynes. For info, the front carrier bolts which are M12 are torqued to 124Nm and can be reused. I'd think that the "do not reuse" advice for the M8 calliper mounting bolts for the rear brakes is due to the fact that they come with blue Loctite coating on them so once fitted should not be reused (unless cleaned up and new blue Loctite applied to them - well that is what I do). I seem to have maybe 3 torque wrenches to cover the range of torque settings, plus a torque screwdriver for other small screws/bolts.

I'm think/guess, that if you remove the high level brake light assembly and prove that it looks okay and then test it to prove it is still working, then the cable break is as said earlier, probably at a point where the cable gets flexed/bent every time the hatch is opened - and that means somewhere at/on or close to the length of cabling that is located within the rubber protective boot that the cabling passes through between the car body and the hatch. If you are very lucky, you will find it by manipulating the protective boot - ie squeezing it with your fingers, and that will reveal an anomaly - if not then it should be close to that area just within the hatch or just within the car body. While the high level brake light assembly is out of the car, check to make sure which side, ie 12V or 0V is missing by having someone press the brake pedal while the ignition is on - noting that the brake lights will also be on at this time. If you have not got a DVM then you will have problems moving forward in this task.

Same here originally back in maybe 2001.

I'm not convinced that it is out of the ordinary noise wise.

The trouble at times can be that while a company does have the factory supply contract for one of their product ranges, it does not follow that other or all their product ranges are also factory supplies. Fuchs do tend to win/hold the supply contract for engine oils to VW Group factories, but do they also have the contract for supplying DSG fluids? The last line in the image shown above reads "Engine Oils".

It might just be the way that they capture cars for their used cars side line, horrible situation to be in!