rum4mo

One thing you could try, with the ignition key out of the switch, is to remove the pollen filter and push a couple of fingers up to make contact with the fan blades, then see if you can rotate them freely - okay if the motor bearings are a bit stiff then the fuse should blow eventually, but doing this would give you an idea if the motor seems okay, although the brushes could be worn. Really just something to try before the garages are back open again, save you being bored!

@Krissi, sorry to hear about this, good luck! Maybe startling to think that every driver must have a good sense of smell, maybe a new or upcoming condition for having a driving licence. Same for "this leakage will get picked up eventually at service time", I don't think DSVA is up to doing their job.

Unless time and water has killed that same lead at the inline socket<>plug on the underside of the engine/gearbox joining point, then yes I'd think that you will need to separate that glued up mess and work out why it is not acting as a good plug<>socket connection.

If it is a 2009 car used in Central Scotland, that is a very good/long life for the original front road springs, I've had 6 years out of a 2002 car and 7 or 8 years out of a 2009 car, my wife's 2015 VW Polo must be getting near wanting new front springs!

I just use the crock clips, or have done for many years.

This should really have been posted into the correct model specific section of this site to get the best visibility and so responses.

14" might not work, okay if the car has 256mm front discs, but not so handy if the car has 288mm front discs, I'd expect the lower powered 1.0TSI will have the smaller brake size and the higher powered 1.0TSI the bigger disc size. I just bought a used set of 4 15" VW Polo 6R alloys for my wife's 2015 6C VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and put on a set of 185/60 X 15 winter tyres. The one error that I made was, I bought Michelin Alpins, great winter tyres, but they are lasting too long for the winter mileage we cover, next time I'd aim to buy a cheaper less well wearing set as long as the grip performance was just as good!

I'm not beyond buying bits via ebay, but for my cars, I tend to favour buying genuine VW Group NOS, well aiming/hoping that its genuine VW group or from one of their supplier brands.

Well, if I had that issue, and I didn't know which/what pads were currently fitted to that car, I'd be checking that as well as making sure everything was nice and cleaned up - before taking the next step.

Which brand of brake pads did you fit, as most suitable ones should have a tapered shim bonded to them to minimise that sort of thing happening?

I had that on a completely different VW Group car, a VW Passat 4Motion 2000, which like the earlier MK1 Superb were just some old Audi bits as far as the drive train was concerned, so being a pessimist, I thought "gearbox/diff" so handed it in after swopping wheels around, with a very heavy heart, the noise that car made, and started making quite quickly from being very quiet, was more of a wah wah like older army trucks with off road (mainly) tyres, luckily it was only a front wheel bearing so I got both sides replaced, noises gone, I never ever tried driving through that noise, I just used it as little as possible until I could get it "seen to", mileage at that time was probably near 75K miles/9years old. My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, started making "bearing noises" when it was only over 6 years old and 30/35K miles, as I initially hoped it was uneven tyre wear, but when it came time to change from directional winter tyres to summer tyres the noise unfortunately did not go away! I did keep running it and yes, I could easily drive through that noisy band of road speed, it was just a hum that could easily be "got rid of" by turning the radio on and up a bit, I replaced both front bearing assembles and that sorted that out. Edit:- that can be the reality of running a 4WD car, always start with the worst possible source of the noise, I've only ever had, as my car, a 4WD car for the past 30 years and never yet had any "4WD" related issues.

Unfortunately, having a "fully overtightened" battery clamp, can also mean that the local dealership has in the past removed that lead!

Out of interest, what are the black wire from the battery -VE and the red wire showing, being used for?

I replaced the original Panasonic batteries in both keys for my wife's August 2015 VW Polo at the maybe 6 year mark, with new Panasonics - just to avoid any issues, purely PM.

My big tin of Copaslip - for use on furnace bolts - it says on the tin, has been with me since the late 1970's, not much use for it nowadays as I've moved across to Ceramic brake grease. One thing that I noticed when replacing the engine oil in my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS, was that the sump plug was "gripping slightly" when screwed back in, every time I've changed the oil I have used a torque wrench set to the correct torque level, so I can't easily explain why that was started happening, I checked another sump plug and it felt the same no obvious thread damage on either of these sump plugs, if I had realised that the wheel bolts use the same thread size, I could have run a tap that size down that sump plug hole, something I will remember to do next year at oil change time!

If it is the EVAP ribbed hose issue, it will only make that noise when the engine has warmed up and either at small throttle demands/ low engine revs and low engine loading or on the over run. Just look for the EVAP hose, it appears at the right-hand side (looking forward from the driver's seat), coming up from below on a metal pipe and connecting to a plastic pipe before coming forward to the right-hand side of the engine to connect to the EVAP solenoid. At this age many cars had a hard plastic ribbed pipe and some were lucky enough to have a preformed rubber smooth bore pipe - if this is your problem it is a just a change to the later pipe that is required. I had to really push for this to be replaced/upgraded on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI under warranty, as VW claimed that it was not a recognised problem, eventually they sourced what they called a kit from VW Germany - kit = pipe and spring clips, they fitted these spring clips at both ends of the new pipe, but there was not enough room for the clip at the EVAP solenoid end, so it was just put there for cosmetic reasons, so I removed it.

So yes, cylinder 1 is the one nearest the right-hand side of the car - from sitting in the driver's seat looking forwards!

Maybe I was being a bit cheeky or naive a few years ago, but anyway I emailed Fuchs's UK sales department concerning a certain version of their engine oil that was suitable for my VW Group cars, and another brand that I was lead to believe on motoring forums, was just "same as" that Fuchs version of oil! I was put right immediately by being advised that the "treatment package" in engine and other oils is what contributes to the bulk of the price differences, Fuchs add to their branded oils what they considered correct, what they added to "other" brands they supplied was really up to how much or what point in the market these other brands were aiming at - take from that what you want. Sounds to me a lot like the baked beans situation. I moved to Mobil One so no longer a Fuchs user, each to their own really, Edit:- there was really a bit more to that email than just asking about what exactly is the difference between Fuch in Fuchs tins and their supplied oils in another brands tins, I also wanted to know where I could source their oils locally, and that turned out to be a waste of time as the small motor factors only held a very limited range of Fuchs engine oils - and really did not want to buy in of what I was looking for at the time, so back to online buying, so much for helping the local economy!

I think that I and others have said this before, if you go by the official recommendations given out by at least VW to service/repair agents via the official workshop manuals, it clearly points out that on these models, the cambelt is not a service type item, it should get inspected every so many miles/years after the initial so many miles/years when the car is being serviced, and a judgment made at that time as to wither it needs replacing or not. My wife's VW Polo was first reg'd in mid August 2015, has run just over 40K miles, and I'll probably get its cambelt etc replaced next year - for peace of mind. On all earlier 1,4 16V petrol engined small VW Group cars, I have always gone with the 4 year change period for earlier car and the 5 year change for later similar engiined cars.

That would be an extremely good or challenging test for that stuff!

My wife's previous car, a 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V 75PS, ie BBY engine with manual trans, started "using" engine oil from maybe quite an early age from new, maybe 5 years 40K miles, I tolerated that, but when it was roughly 10 years old, 80K miles, it started pinking even at low temperatures, when the engine load was high at lower revs, I initially treated it to UL+ fuel and that kept the pinking away, but eventually I replaced the oil/air separator and that reduced the oil use and probably got rid of the pinking - but I never ever found out as my wife preferred its improved drivability while using UL+! I remember checking/adjusting the tappets on my 1972 Ford Escort MK1 1300 in 1977, shock horror, I found a hard bit of stuff in the rocker area, so did a de-coke - it was "only" a broken off bit of a valve stem seal, still that engine did get a de-coke and so a new set of valve stem seals, as said, valve stem seals do have a limited useful life. Edit:- Lambda sensors do not live effectively for ever, so maybe the one that has reported that issue needs replacing, I'm not sure how effective cleaning it will be.

Thanks for that, when I eventually get round to checking and replacing the bolts on my wife's Polo I'll bear that in mind, it was the answer that I expected, and I plan to replace the G13 coolant with G12evo while doing that job, I think that my wife's Polo engine was built before this started to be an issue, but I'd rather check these bolts to make sure.

Did you need to remove the coolant and its pipes and remove the inlet manifold from the car completely or did you manage to leave the coolant pipes connected to the inlet manifold and work by moving it about a bit?

Once, I checked to see what the spec was for the VW Group branded DOT4 brake fluid, and found that it is effectively DOT4+ or called DOT4 ESP or DOT4 Pro by some other providers, so I've always only ever bought brake fluid to that spec, yes when compared with basic DOT4 it is more expensive, but in application tables/listings, most modern cars get listed against the DOT4+/DOT4 ESP/DOT4 Pro. You asked the question, so I've just given you my answer, some others justify just using the cheapest available. Edit:- it seems a bit strange that Brembo include "lower viscosity" as a feature of its basic DOT4 when they also offer one listed as a DOT4 LV and lists it as "very low viscosity".

That sounds slightly weird, from memory, and I could be wrong, with a split rear seat 2002 9N Polo, the seat base just flipped forward, same on the 2015 VW Polo, if anything I would have expected the Fabia to always be more versatile/usable in that respect than the equivalent Polo.