rum4mo

I tried a couple of versions of these springs and preferred the ones from the MK1 Sharan etc which are now listed as being 7M0 615 295 (LHS) and 7M0 615 296 (RHS), I fitted the same versions to my wife's 2002 VW Polo and her later 2015 VW Polo - I'm just adding this info in case someone else has yet to feel the desire/need to fit these return springs.

I agree but as that age of car, Polo was fitted with droplinks that might have U profile plastic “rods” I wanted to replace with that or whatever was the latest offering - the note in the parts listing made it clear that both sides must be replaced when one side is being replaced, so I interpreted that to mean that this item had been revised. Anyway latest version seems to have quite a large(er) pair of ball joints and maybe tubular rods.

Talk to your local Skoda dealership parts department, I’ve rebuilt my wife’s 2015 VW Polo when it’s mirror got trashed, maybe that plastic window is part of the indicator assembly, I’d think that all parts are available maybe even from stock, if not they will order them in for you.

I bought mine from ECP, branded as Lemforder and with that VW Group part number moulded into the rubber, £13.50 each a couple of weeks or so ago. Edit:- for some reason I bought VW Group drop links, and doing that hurt my wallet a bit!

I bought my download from easymanuals.co.uk, so you’d be better to buy a download for your car as there would be more relevant info in it.

I have downloaded a copy of the official VW workshop manual for my wife’s 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, these bolts are the same part number as for your Fabia, and the recommendation is “replace” these bolts and nut, so I’ve gone with that.

Well I can only go back as far as 2000 in the VW Group world of motoring, and all 6, 3 VWs, 2 SEAT and 1 Audi, have all had that feature, so its been around for a while now.

I would think that a proper Car AC fixer would be able to change that leaking valve insert from his stock of bits, and if that went okay, vac out and recharge the system, maybe even a mobile AC fixer that comes to you.

You can get a copy of the official workshop manual from www.easymanuals.co.uk - which will be just a copy of whatever they grabbed from erWin at an earlier point in time, or reg with erWin Skoda and get the latest version.

Yes, seems like most people use an OE spanner to get that nut off, also VW say that it is okay to crosswire inserts if you end up damaging the thread in the captive nut for the front bolt. I’ve got PB blaster and PlusGas to try to avoid ending up with that happening.

Some of the aftermarket parts suppliers do offer a "support" parts kit and reference this in their online catalogue - well Lemforder do anyway, but, their kit of bits for this task includes what to me, seems like a couple of extra bolts which going by the picture of the kit are a couple of subframe fixing bolts - though it could be that on some Fabia/Polo/Ibiza/A1/etc variants/ages these extra bolts are required. Also, they offer the same extra bolts for the cars with the earlier version of TCA.

Yes, I bought the only Haynes manual in paper form when my wife bought her VW Polo 1.2TSI back in 2015 - or as soon as Haynes had launched one that sort of covered some aspects of that or earlier 6R version of Polo, it seemed to be better than nothing and I used it to get torques etc when working on a 2009 SEAT Ibiza, but the other day when looking through it before replacing the front TCA rear bushes, Haynes certainly seemed to have "lightened" their approach to repair manual writing! Luckily I already have erWin for all our cars.

Well at least VW do recommend replacing all the bolts and nuts, so that means:- a long horizontal bolt for each side, a slightly shorter bolt and nut for the rear mounting for each side, and a nut for the ball joint on both sides - that was for a VW Polo 6C so same for your Rapid. I keep meaning to do this job, though I'm only replacing the rear mountings, made up a "kit of bits" but now waiting for a "time slot" in car usage - and some enthusiasm! Edit:- remember to raise the hub up to its normal position before tightening the big (M12) bolts. Another edit:- according to the official VW Polo 6C workshop manual, if the car has a DSG box, the engine-gearbox needs moving away a bit to give enough room to remove the front (horizontal) bolt from the car. If the car has a manual box this is not required, although in the past, cars with certain engines needed the engine to be raised slightly so the the long bolt on the engine side could clear the edge of the sump. I'll confess to not checking what the situation is wrt these bolts clearing the engine sump when I serviced that car a few weeks ago!

For what it is worth, at least VW use a comment/recommendation about changing the oil on this model/type of engine, and that is "do not use oil extraction method, drain from sump plug" - so that is what I've always done with my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI - and I think that you have discovered that this is the only way to change the oil in this model/type of VW Group engine. My Pelo 6000, rests on a shelf in my garage, just another tool bought in error, I have only used it once on a SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V engine, and ran out of patience, it worked well enough on my petrol mower - but using simpler tools to do that job means less time wasted cleaning everything up afterwards. I think that you need to fabricate a pair of ramps out of wood, or buy a ready made pair of ramps.

You might find that the design of these deflector rings has changed slightly, I found that when I replaced the front bearings on my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI last year, in my case the car already had the newer profile of deflector ring and I had a pair of older version of deflector rings left over from a road spring replacement job I had done on a 2002 VW Polo 18 years, roughly, earlier. In the event, I did try to replace the deflector rings on this 2015 Polo last year and failed miserably on the left hand side and just end up breaking off too many of the gripper "teeth" - so I refitted the original one, one the right hand side, I did manage to fit the new deflector ring. Note, I did clean off as much rust/curd as I could before trying to fit these deflector rings. These just seem to be to deflect general road curd away from the bearing area, there is a lip aon the end of the drive shaft that they locate over. I'm just relating that tale in case you are concerned about the new deflector plates looking different. The survival of the ABS sensor will be in doubt judging by my experience, the left hand side one survived okay, the right hand side one, because there was a greater build up of rust/curd, which I needed to clean up in order to get the rear forcing plates to sit into the back of the hub properly. Obviously closer in, where the stub end of the ABS sensor pokes out to almost touch the magnetic ring on the rear of the bearing, must have had enough rust/curd remaining to cause that ABS stub to get "collected" by the rust/curd when the bearing was being pulled out by the tool. Before I started using this tool, I ground away an extra area to be sure that the ABS sensor was not being contacted, with the same thoughts of caution when pulling the new bearings into place AFTER I had competed this job, I ground out a vertical channel on the inner face of the rear "fitting" plate - just while I remembered trashing an ABS sensor. Remember to use plenty Moly grease on the forcing screw rod, its nut and its thrust bearings, also clean up/out the area where the new bearing will land into and apply just a touch of Lithium based grease to help ease the bearing in.

It is a sort of self taper type threaded screw for screwing into a plastic part, as you can see from the threads showing in that picture. Its part number is N 106 112 01 oval head panel screw 6 X 22 which just means that it is nominally 6mm in diameter and the threaded section is 22mm.

When I got my car's alloy winter wheels recoated in a "pleasant" shade of grey/gun metal, I was quite surprised to see that they fitted dark coloured balance weights. But yes, very easy to sort out as I tend to do with any silver coloured wheels when "touching them up" after removing them from the car at the end of Summer or the end of Winter - even the silver coloured ones change colour over time!

Others have stated that while under the control of the car's smart charging system, cars with "regenerative braking", will always aim to charge the battery up to a level of roughly 85% - doing that means that all/most of the "free" energy provided by "regenerative braking" - mainly during on the overrun /braking phase, can be absorbed by the car's battery and so lower overall emissions (and save the national grid from being stressed by people home trickle charging - hopefully that will be taken as intended as a joke).

Possibly a "bargain" when compared with main dealership prices, hopefully someone who is going through this via a Skoda main dealership workshop will report back with the cost of getting that work carried out there.

I'm not too sure about the "no understanding" you haven't a clue as to what my back ground in engineering is. My general regurgitating was me regurgitating what I had already written about this, so you are totally wrong there, okay as time goes on I'm missing or dropping out a bit of the content of my original thoughts on what is happening, so no "embellishing" intended from me. I'm not going to respond to any more of your ramblings as you do seem to "set off" against a few random posts/posters - such is your hobby. Maybe stand back and consider how/what you write and is your intention to help or promote your own self. Lets allow the OP to get back to this subject and tell us how it pans out.

Yup. Edit:-that was in response to AGFalco.

I would have to ask myself "why would I respond to another bit of half right half wrong thinking" based on - what? I do understand that you are mainland Europe's top materials person, but, what has been happening is said to have been started/caused by under torqued fasteners, so dissecting what some people have written, on more than one topic, in a way to raise awareness of your amazing technical knowledge that many of us are so privileged to "benefit" from - just doesn't cut it for at least me. Okay I might have left some stuff out when I posted that, but it wasn't meant to be a final complete breakdown of how these bolts are getting their heads popped. The issue, its consequences, and the potential for even worse consequences is a lot more important to a motoring forum, than picking bits apart.

My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS and during lockdown etc, I was connecting it up to a CTEK smart charger, the stated and/or preferred way to connect an external charger is between the battery +VE and body earth point near the battery. I also have a CTEK battery tester/analyser and that along with online tales of battery woes, lead me to "jump the gun" and grab myself a Bosch AGM battery of the "next size up", really to be ready to walk away from minimal sized/rated EFB battery - i bought that AGM battery back in early winter of 2021 - and yet that car continues to survive on its original battery after 8 years and 45,000 miles - like many other people, I can end up being a bit selective as to when I allow the auto Stop/Start to be in control, but so far so good. It seems to be part of the price of lowering emissions, ie to fit minimal sized/rated batteries and then only allow them to charge when they threatening to go flat, as I said, that 2015 VW Polo has never ended up giving the impression that it is too low on battery charge that it will not start.

Oh bother, another one, I'm just adding this link to keep info together.

You are being cheated and robed of this experience, wear luckier pants! Edit:- It is good to read about one actually being taking into a Skoda dealership workshop for repair though.