rum4mo

@nta16, you need to edit your previous posting - your first part of covering coin cell dimensions, before the "hounds" come at/for you!

Just a bit of additional (unnecessary) info on fuse types, the fuse type that can get called "standard" and also named ATO by Littelfuse, who first brought them to the market, the "O" means "open" as in the fuse element is exposed, there is another version of "standard" fuses called ATC and the "C" means "closed" as in the fuse element is covered- I only found that out when I Googled "ATO" to make sure that I had quoted the correct term - so that explains why some of these "standard" fuses, in VW Group cars anyway, are either "open" or "closed" with probably no logic as to why both can exist in a new car from the factory - a supplier related issue maybe.

Yes, I tend to either roll the car forward "half a wheel rotation" then get the areas missed during the initial washing - or hope to park it after being out in it, with the front wheels in a different position - the first option works best! Edit:- removed an "out" !

If the battery is an EFB, why don’t you run the “reconditioning” charging program. I’ve done that once a year on the original EFB in my wife’s 2015 Polo 1.2TSI and and it does improve the battery’s health - ie its CCA as measured using a CTek battery tester. To be honest, I’m almost annoyed how well this original, ie factory fitted Exide EFB is behaving 49k miles and 8.5 years from new, but in reality, a car’s battery life tends to be linked to how a car gets used - not intended as a criticism, just the way it is.

Maybe a better plan would be to check the fuse boxes and see which sizes of each fuse are being used on that car, both of the sizes you mentioned will be in there as well as another version, ie ATO, MINI and JCASE I've found Halfords and many other car parts outlets stock supplies of car fuses. In my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, the "12V Power Outlet" fuse is a 20amp ATO.

My wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS uses 15" 6R, ie slightly earlier than her 6C Polo, VW alloys in winter and they clear the 288mm front brakes, I think that your 2017 1.0TSI 110PS Fabia will have 288mm front brake discs, or even the newer slightly smaller front discs, so that means that if you buy a genuine VW Group alloy, it will clear the brakes on your car.

A comment that I would make is, there is more than one thread size(pitch) available even where you have metric fasteners, or, including metric fasteners, typically a "fine" and a "coarse" thread, and for some metric sizes, more than just 2 sizes. I'd always measure the thread pitch before fitting a new bolt or nut, though typically I only buy new bolts/nuts from a local VW Group dealership, doing that means that you end up with the correct fixing first time. You can buy metric thread gauges as well as taps and die sets that cover all or most fixing sizes/pitches used on these car.

Ah, okay, but good to know that my local parts shop could source them quickly from them - as that time must be getting close for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI !

Out of interest, for the future, does your local Dingbro deal with the general public - I've always looked on them as being a "trade only" operation, so never tried buying from them locally? I've bought Lesjofors springs in the past and consider them to be a "better" quality and exact replacement than some others.

He wrote "back box", by the way.🙂

I'll hazard a guess, stupid maybe, that what is being referred to as an into tank filter, will only be a single gauze screen to protect the in tank lift pump, if that ends up getting choked, and it shouldn't, the high pressure fuel system would under perform and you would get to know about that. Nowadays, with lots of newer cars, replaceable petrol fuel filters are a thing of the past, so this can now be ignored as a preventative maintenance service task. Edit: one "can" removed, no "can can" intended!

Yes I agree, our younger daughter and husband has a 2019 SEAT Arona and I can see that if it appears up my way from Bromley before it gets its next MOT in April-May, then I'll be replacing the rear discs with Pagid and either Textar or Pagid pads. That will only sort things out for a few years as they are smart enough to not use the car unless they really need to and drive "too carefully"! In the past I've found Pagid rear discs to stay cleaner and longer than VW or SEAT factory fitted rear discs, either coincidence, luck or something else.

So that was an EA211 engine with an alloy plug, the workshop instruction, at least for my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI, ie another EA211 engine with an alloy plug, is at the first service, to remove the plain steel plug/captive washer, and throw it in the bin, and replace that with a different steel plug and a separate rolled/folded alloy washer. Now, at every service since the warranty ran out, I've serviced the car myself and just reused the steel plug and fitted a new rolled/folded alloy sealing washer - always using a torque wrench set at 30Nm, but at the 2022 service, the steel plug sort of "caught" a bit when about half way out, so I eased it out, examined the steel plug, which looked as good as these steel plugs tend to seeing as they probably get thrown into a huge hopper during the manufacture process, anyway I changed to using another - same version, steel plug and it was also slightly "not right" but seemed okay when it was near the fully screwed in point. So, at service time this year, I ran a tap down that sump drain hole and some bits of alloy came out with the plug, I also ran a die over the steel plug but it seemed to be okay - so for the service next year I'll be buying a new steel plug, and checking/cleaning it before using it. So, why the steel plug/alloy sump hole offered no resistance during the 2019, 2020 and 2021 oil changes, I can't say. I serviced my old 2000 VW Passat 4Motion 12 times and my wife's 2002 VW Polo 1.4 12 times, both had alloy sumps and the older steel plug/captive washer, and never had any issues with the sump threads, a bit annoying!

No, you would only need a 16" steel spare wheel if you had bigger ie upgraded the front brakes, 15", as already said is what VW Group supply when they provide a spare wheel as standard. Lower powered Fabias ie ones with 256 or roughly that size of front discs, would get supplied with a 14" steel spare wheel. The rolling circumference of any these wheels when fitted with the "correct for that car" tyre, will be roughly the same. Edit:- obviously other aspects of the wheels need to be correct when fitting 15" wheels and same if able to fit 14" steel spares - ie rim width and offset.

Sorry I was dreaming, your car has a 1.0TSI engine, but what I suggested above still counts! Edit:- the O-ring seal for the end of that pressure pipe that seals it to the throttle body is WHT 007 498, and the O-ring at the other end of that pressure pipe that seals it to adaptor and also the same that seals the adaptor to the turbo O/L is WHT 001 386 - you should only need one of the O-rings at the turbo end of that pressure pipe as you will only need to remove the pressure pipe alone or complete with the adaptor. I'm suggesting that you remove the pressure pipe completely as doing that seemed, to me, to make life easier when refitting, and also allows you to wash the engine oil out of that pressure pipe, apply a spot of clean engine oil to these O-ring seals so that the pressure pipe can be fitted easier and so not damaging the new O-rings.

I'm guessing that that is an early 8V 1.2TSI engine, and I'd think that either the O-ring seal is allowing oil in the forced air to leak past it, or that pipe is cracked, or if there is a plastic adaptor on top of the throttle body, maybe that is cracked or its O-ring - if it has one, is leaking. That area really just needs cleaning up to help you work out exactly where the leak is..

A weak and/or under charged battery could cause this sort of thing to happen - as the battery's voltage will dip down when the starter motor is turning the engine over. VW Group call all the "computers" or "smart controllers", controllers, and there will be quite a few of them in your car, now if you had a good scan tool, like VCDS, you could check everyone of them for stored or logged fault codes - doing that might allow you to work out what was happening.

One easy way to find your car's engine code is to stuff your reg number into Opie Oils website - and possibly some others.

Skoda UK are being nasty cheating bar stewards, ask this question again, this time via recorded/tracked snail mail, and when they give the same answer in print, seek further advice - as well as shaming them publicly. Edit:- the only alternative to them being nasty cheating bar stewards, might be that Skoda engine plant has a bigger problem than they initially thought concerning this version of this pulley - it would have handy if you had asked for the removed pulley assembly to be returned to you - as evidence.

Just a comment in the passing, maybe for people who have not done this yet, the engine RHS mounting is sold by VW Group as a single assembled item, what exactly does the text supporting that "picture" from the official workshop manual say about this, maybe the red arrow is pointing this out, whereas the "!" group of bolts is instructing that they should be removed - and not that nut in the centre of the actual "silent block". I'm sure that I've read about this being the case - while "back street" workshops creating youtube videos just say "remove that nut and jack up the engine" - I can't say if or why removing that nut is a big issue though.

Not good! My wife runs an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI and I tend to scrub the threaded areas clean and apply grease, every year at service time - more in a bid to make it easy to re-adjust the toeing if it becomes necessary, this car is at around 42,000 miles and lots of salt is spread on our local roads in winter. I did replace the TREs on her previous October 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V at the 4.5 year point, but that was only due to me needing to replace the front springs and the TRE threads/nuts gave me a lot of grief. Later on, maybe at 10 years and 85,000 miles, I did replace the inner track rods due to "slackness" on one of them, doing that with the correct tool was very easy. At both times, I didn't find any unusual rusting on the track rood threads.

Yes, that covers all the usual parts that would be expected to be needed to fix a "snapped off fuel rail screw/bolt head", good to see that they saw fit to replace the 5 inlet manifold securing screws/bolts, I had not thought of needing to replace them, so I'll buy them in to add to kit of parts covering "removing the inlet manifold for fuel rail bolt checking/replacing"

I think, just think, that that part comes as part of the strut - I've only ever replaced 4 front struts and I don't remember having to swop that part over. Plus, when you look at that picture that you posted, if that part was easy to swop over, then it would also be sort of free to move up and off that position and so not really be able to do the job that it is meant to - the looks like the cap on the end of the strut is what keeps that plastic retainer in place. Edit:- so, maybe annoyingly, it might be a job for a plastic tie wrap.

I've had that "all covered by warranty so no need to provide a zero cost/charge bit of paperwork" - I just advised my VW main dealership that they had carried out work on my property, so I needed a breakdown of what work was carried out, for many reasons including just in case that failure occurred again, and even when just out of warranty - and they provided it. For the first "prepaid service" I had to push for paperwork, it came automatically for the 2nd and 3rd service though, so maybe a change of plan.

I've guessed it was an engine build plant output from at the earliest, for 1.2TSI engines of late 2015 lasting until at the worst week 25 2017 - which was the date, apparently, that Skoda recognised it and took action on assembly line tooling issue. A VW USA and so Canada TSB covering this is dated 23 February 2021, so it did take quite a bit of time for VW Group to spread the word internally and pass out recovery/preventative instructions to USA and Canada dealerships. My wife's VW Polo, built in ZA in 22/06/15 has an engine built by Skoda 07/05/15, so a difference of 6 weeks for a car built in South Africa, for Skoda Fabia built in CZ I would have expected a short time between engine build and car build. Balazs_HU's Octavia built in 2015 does seems to not quite fit in with the range of reported dates for EA211 1.2TSI though, I have not been watching any reporting of the EA211 1.4TSI engines with this issue, but logically the assembly lines would be able to build either capacity of engines but possibly dedicated to a single capacity of engine, and unless there was a serious line issue or a change in demand, I would have thought there would be lines and so assembly kits stayed configured like that - so just maybe, different actual production periods for the start and end of 1.4TSI issues and 1.2TSI issues. That 1.4TSI just seems to be an odd one date wise, so maybe some other reason for that one having leaking fuel, I've even read, maybe in this thread, that the only failure in one case was injector seals - if so that sounds like being a different issue and the fuel rail bolts remained in place on that engine.