rum4mo

Sorry to hear about this! Hopefully you going to give us a rough/quick round up on how this repair went once you have got all the parts and fitted them, good luck! Edit:- out of interest, did you find any or all the other rail fixing bolts loose or not very tight when you went to remove them?

Have you tried trimming down the address to www.hardrace-europe.com and searching for these bits, worked for me? Edit:- or is it just an under car view you want?

Exactly, grab the front of the seat base at the front and lift it up a bit, it will sort of move forward, then grab the rear of the seat base and pivot it forwards through 90 degrees. Then drop the seat back(s) down.

If the linkage has come off at the ball pivot point, for a quick work around, Halfords and others sell a repair click - Halfords Windscreen Wiper Repair Clip | Halfords UK I've never needed to use one, maybe others can comment on that to keep you moving until you buy a new linkage or just trust the repair clip.

Yes, the same as in my wife's 2015 VW Polo the seat base tips forward to let the seat back fold down, also, the seat base can be removed quite easily if you want/need more space, that is not mentioned in the handbook though if I remember correctly. I tend to forget about the clips in the side panel for storing the outer seat belts out of the way though, and just get annoyed with the belts - for some reason. Edit:- I'd think that if the rear seat base removal is detailed in the Fabia handbook then it will probably also be detailed in that Polo one - just shows that most people might read the handbook but not all of it is retained, especially in older brains!

So the hopefully split seat bases do not tip forward through 90 degrees first and then the seat back folds down near enough flat? That sounds a bit silly and a space waster. I'm only going by how things work out on my wife's 2015 VW Polo

Just one thing to remember if you have not taken it into consideration yet, when you are connecting/disconnecting main cables, you will probably be wakening up ALL that car's controllers, so for a shortish period after making a change, the drain current will be higher - and then drop off as controllers are put to sleep. That means, when checking things over a short period of time, you might not actually be seeing any change or at least the changes that you are hoping to see.

I'd think that your only source for a new high level light will be Skoda. I'd also think that if you managed to work out how to remove that assembly, you could cut it open and repair it and then bond it back together again before refitting it - but that would depend on your technical abilities. I had a rear high level light assembly fail on my wife's previous car which was a 2002 VW Polo - and what surprised me was that that car's high level brake light had a row of filament bulbs and not LEDs! Anyway, if I had had more time and that car was not being used daily, I would have looked into that assembly before buying a new one - as as soon as I removed the old one I could see where/what the failure was - one of the power connections had rusted due to water getting in! If I had seen that, I could have sorted that original light out by splicing in a new and longer length of wire and soldered it to the bus bar, which was what I needed to do after fitting the new light assembly!

It is a pity that you cannot recharge that battery and then test it, really to try to work out if that battery has indeed run out of useful life - or the battery monitor built into the -VE lead has become faulty and has led to that battery being under charged. My wife has an August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS 6MT, and maybe 10 months ago it did change its charging characteristics enough to get me worried, but after changing the battery serial number, things have improved, though I'd doubt if that battery will remain useful for another 2 years, but I'm sticking with it while keeping an eye on its "habits" via a cheap Chinese made plug in DVM, new AGM battery ready for action for when the time comes. Remember that your car will need an EFB or AGM battery and it should be coded to the car. I'd doubt if the seat belt warning defect will be the root cause of this issue. Edit:- don't get me wrong, it could well be that that battery has indeed reached the end of its life,I am just trying to cover all bases just in case there is another reason other than that battery.

Ah, so you have just replaced the nozzle at the end of the rear washer system, if I was correct, the part that I referred to further back up this thread is more likely to be the root cause of this problem - but if you or anyone else on this forum cannot point to where this part is in the car, then that is a problem. Replacing the pump, might solve your problem - but it might not. Good luck!

For the possible benefit of others, where was that valve thing located in the car?

Just to clear this up and remove any/all blame from South Ayrshire roads - I eventually replaced both front bearings last week - and, we have been back driving on Ayrshire roads with no signs of front bearing noises!

I hope that it was the valve thing that I suggested that you replaced and not just the rear spray nozzle? Typically to replace a washer pump, you would lift the front of the car onto axle stands, lift the bonnet to see which side of the car the washer fluid reservoir is on, then remove the front wheel on that side and then either remove the wheel arch liner or just remove enough of its fixings to allow you to reach the washer pump which will be mounted on the washer reservoir - I'd hope that replacing that pump is possible without removing the front bumper cover.

Re-awakening an old thread, I eventually replaced both front bearings on my wife's August 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI as one of them was getting noisy, so I just bought a cheap Gen2 72mm bearing removal/fitting kit off ebay, it worked okay, but just to be safe, and seeing as others had commented on a forum, that the steel pegs tended or could bend, I bought a set of 5 pegs from a Sealey parts supplier and just guessed that these cheap chinese kits are copies of better ones - that worked! On the subject of ABS sensors, I had read in the official VW workshop manual that removing an ABS sensor from a 2015 etc Polo means killing it - just a pity as all or most YouTube videos show these sensors just getting wiggled slightly and out they come intact! Anyway, I sussed out that the removal rear "block" while having a flat machined off to clear the ABS sensor, would need a bit more material removed, so I cut out a narrowish deeper slot, that worked for the left side, and it looks like fitting the bearing has not trashed that ABS sensor, but on the right side, that side was a lot rustier and when that bearing was removed, the nasty lumps of rust caught the "finger" of the ABS sensor and so tilted it over, so I guessed that that ABS sensor had been cracked but still still roughly in one part. I eventually managed to eject that ABS sensor and in doing that, the lower end or "finger" got pulled back into its correct (looking) position before breaking off - so that ABS sensor was now in 2 parts! Really with a view to get that car back together quickly I phone my local Skoda dealer, then are easier to get to than my local VW dealer, and asked the price of a right side front ABS sensor - £95.90, and they do not get stocked! I was not in that much of a hurry to get that car together again so I ordered a Bosch one via ECP, that £56ish, I had already prepared for this eventuality so knew that that same Bosch part would cost £27 + delivery from AutoDoc, but I did not want to wait 8 - 10 days. While searching on ebay before ordering one, I noticed someone selling an unused left front VW Group ABS sensor, so just in case the left hand side has not survived a bearing change - I bought that one for £9 + delivery which was roughly £4. So I now know that you can clean out the rusty curd from these ABS sensor bore holes using a 10mm drill bit. The bearings that I bought via AutoDoc were FAG and the bearings fitted into that car at initial build were SNR France, so hopefully the FAG bearings last longer than the SNR ones, though the side that seems to have been causing the noise was the rusty side, but these bearings should be able to keep out water I would have thought. Finally I learned way back in late 2006/early 2007, that if you need to take things apart on these cars (a 2002 VW Polo), you really need a tap and die set that covers all the sizes and threads used on these cars, cleaning up the exposed ends of threads does make removing nuts a lot easier, back in late 2006/early 2007 replacing a front spring took far too long - and then I bought a reasonable tap and die set before changing the other front spring. Edit:- just one other comment or info, the brand or branding of the ABS wheel sensor I ended up breaking on that 2015 VW Polo, was ATE - I had expected that if its brand was shown on it it would be Bosch, not so.

That sounds quite expensive for a fuel cap seal, but when I looked on line at the time you asked that question, everything being sold on ebay was a similar price. One thing about searching on ebay for replacement fuel cap seals was that I "bumped into" fuel cap replacement lanyards - that was something that I was looking for many years ago - but there were none and it seemed that the only solution would be a new cap, now I need to be aware of which version of replacement parts each of our cars use - just in case!

I have now read about this happening with a same age Ibiza or Polo, in that case, after selecting service position, in normal use the wipers have continued to use that position or close to it as the parking position.

With time running out and you having not done anything about this, it might just be easiest to buy a new filler cap, Skoda will, I'd think without checking up on a parts listing, sell a new cap seal for very little money. Edit:-1K0201557A is one number for a seal.

A bit unfortunate that the fuse tap got disturbed I'd think, maybe designed to fail, or failed to design sensibly. Edit:- in the past I've bought in a couple of fuse taps -but so far not ended up putting them to use.

Without checking on my wife's 2015 VW Polo, that looks a bit like where they park when you demand "service position" - although why they are doing that will probably be down to a failing wipers stalk - a well known issue with these cars, as to how that cause that, I can't say, or the wiper motor assembly - ie its parking system - again I can't explain why the parking system would fail in that way - all guessing really, at long distance!

Maybe that "24" is 24 days until the next service is due, so that means that the workshop that carried out your oil change did not reset the service indicator or that 24 days is until an inspection is due, probably the smart thing to do is to reset both service and inspection warnings when servicing the car - and carrying out any extra tasks that are required for the inspection. Edit:- if the "24" changes to "23" after a day and so after another day, then that would confirm or disprove my suggestion. Similarly the "1200" will drop to a lower number of km once you have run 100 or 200kms.

I'm just waiting on that older daughter getting back to me with the prices Arnold Clark are offering to charge for a brake fluid change, rear discs and pads change and a from E-diff or VAQ fluid change, then I can offer up "my plan so far", the trouble is, I have been put on her insurance for that Cupra and so far I have not bothered to try driving it, it has DSG and this is an old dog maybe not needing to learn new tricks! But if I did ever get brave enough to drive it, I could either take it out to my garage when she is not needing to use it and sort things out, or take it to my favoured VW Group Indie and let her pay for his services - I'd rather the Lotus driver came out and helped me a bit when I'm sorting out that Cupra, maybe cleaning up the mess after changing the E-diff fluid as I believe it smells a lot more than older gear oils! Though I'm sure that his interests as far as car stuff is concerned, lies at home with his Espirit, or E Spirit as the classic insurers call it! Then there is the younger daughter in London, their first car has touched its first kerb, so much distress, I'd rather that they sourced a spare wheel kit instead of worrying too much about returning that kerbed wheel to "as good as new" - but I'm failing on that front!

Hi, I have still not changed anything as the original battery is still able to support that car, and I don't really want an extra "still usable" old battery laying around in the garage! Parts bought:- Battery tray(BRACKET) changed for VW Group p/n 6C0 915 321D to suit the bigger frame size battery and insulator(BATT CASE) changed to 5Q0 915 411E – both already bought, managed to eventually get out to the garage, but not fitted yet. I planned to at least get trays swopped over this summer while I had the front moved out to have a look at the other side of the AC condenser - but the recent seriously hot spell of weather forced me to get the AC recharged to keep my wife quiet!

Not a good look and hopefully not carried out by a professional auto spark. If it was my car I would remove them and if still required, wired that new requirement in safely

It was the manual gearbox version of the BBY that I found to be a bit of an under performer when compared with the noisier revised versions.

When comparing the manual versions, one is a slug and the other is quite a good but noisy engine. Progress on the part of VW Group.