rum4mo

@SpotnikHTP04, one bit of advice for the future, from me is, never ever just replace a front spring and top mounting, there is a bearing up there as well - and you don't want to need to pay someone to take things apart in a few months times just because that bearing now needs replacing. Though when a front spring breaks near/at the top end, the bearing usually falls apart so the decision gets made for you.

Why don't you just phone the Skoda dealer in Inverness and if not in stock they will order you one in if you pay by CC, then it is just a short hop across there to collect it. 15 or so miles is nothing, I live just outside Edinburgh and I need to travel that far if I want any VW Group parts normally - easy.

I've just checked the VW, SEAT and Audi part numbers, but they all have their own part numbers so these struts are not common across these "same" and same age VW Group models! I was just trying to make your life a bit easier in case you could have got one from the local VW dealership - and failed! From memory, the retaining clips or at least the strut, has a "helper" recess where you slip a flat bladed screwdriver into(shown on the side facing you), maybe you should just remove that U/S and so leaking oil strut to stop the oil running out and getting onto "stuff" including clothes.

If you have GSF or ECP within your intended travel area, then at least ECP sell Pagid or maybe even Textar pads and discs, I've always found Pagid to be okay despite how, it has been said, ECP manipulate that brand's offerings by selling only a "shortened" range. I'd always aim to check the Pagid/Textar official website for their kit references and make sure that ECP is handing over their(Pagid/Txtar) listed kits for your car - otherwise aim to get another brand you recognise, sometimes it is very easy to get the exact correct parts aftermarket, sometimes it can be slightly trickier. CCP otherwise known as Coverdale Car Parts, are worth contacting for genuine VW Group parts, I've used them many times, but always make sure that you know what your local VW Group dealership is asking for service parts - just in case you end up paying more from shopping elsewhere.

Are you sure that that NGK stock number is correct, I used to fit 5960 and the NGK UK partsfinder online, still lists that for all VW Group 1.4 BXW, although all my others cars have had a "5 figure" stock number starting with 9????, so maybe the real world NGK stock numbers are more correct than their UK partsfinder online! Edit:- it does seem to be a "V line" version equivalent to 5960 I've discovered so should be okay.

I see that I used to use 25NM on the same engine in a late 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4, though I'm not sure where I got that value from, maybe from Haynes for a 2002 BBY 1.4, or maybe the NGK website. My wife's 2015 1.2TSI is 22NM - okay a different engine and plug but maybe the same thread size, I've forgotten. Some places where you find that figure give 2 figures for plugs that have crushable sealing washers, a low figure for first fit, a higher figure for refitting with a now crushed sealing washer. Ignore my comment for the 1.2TSI engine as its plugs have thick "solid" sealing washers!

I think that if it was a fault/failure with the BMS or its dongle, a scan using a VW Group compliant scan tool would confirm or rule that out, some people have had these dongles replaced under warranty it seems. Needing recoding after a battery change even if the exact identical new battery is fitted, I agree in principle about doing that and would always recode any new battery I fitted to my cars, but has anyone bothered to check how much not doing that influences the usefulness or life of a new battery - I thought that the new battery would not be charged immediately as intended but over time the BMS would adapt to optimise that new battery or at least correctly charge it. I'm just putting that out in a bid to stop the OP now "knowing" that as his car has not been recoded to this new battery, then that MUST be the only reason why he is having a problem.

I've never tried to remove bits from their socket mounting, I'd think that they are in there for good! My US Pro 1/4 or 3/8 set are "one piece" - I mean not "two part" like the ones you bought so really not handy at all, and probably security ones, just bought because -------. I've only started buying quality like Wera 1/4" hex bits to replace damaged poorer/unknown quality ones as and when they end up in a bad state, I don't like ball ended hex/torx tools as normally they are intended to be used to remove lightly torqued and clean fixings ending up finding that you need to use them near or way beyond their useful limits just ends up with the fixings head damaged. Though ball ended is handy for the initial screwing in and the later unscrewing of clean fixings.

Oh yes, prior to getting proper workshop manuals, I've used that site info on how to replace the cabin filter on a few cars, as it can sometimes save damaging things - and speed up doing that job for the first time. With some VW Group engine families, Mahle oil filters are fitted at engine plants, while only Mann VW branded oil filters are sold as service parts and used in VW Group workshops, I've just followed VW Group's lead and buy Mann oil filters for any VW Group cars that I have worked on.

@nta16, yes that screwdriver is also intended to be used to assist with refitting the wheel bolts, no real damaging torque needs to be applied via it, it is just meant to help hold the wheel bolts and help offer them up into the recessed or counterbored points in the wheels, especially the alloy wheels as the bolts end up almost flush with the outer surface of the wheel - a lot easier than using the wheel brace, though I've never ever used car's supplied wheel braces, always added my own. Maybe that comes from lessons learned many many years ago on Land Rovers, all that you could expect from the factory supplied wheel brace was for it to fold its handle round, and that was on LRs that had regular maintenance and correctly torqued wheel nuts, similarly the screw jack would rather wind its second section down into the ground than lift the first section up under the axle, good old BMC controlled LR at its classic best. I think I also ended up buying some crazy sized Torx socket bits, and yes again US Pro rings a bell - good and strong, but they needed plenty space to get into the fixing, something that is normally not always available. If I'm being kind to "makers of stuff" Torx and Spline/Multi Spline/XZN and Ribe came about as they are able to handle higher torque and more useful with industrial tooling including automated tooling.

Buying Mann filters cheaply just means buying what VW Group fitted at factory, but now being bought without any VW Group identity on it, same for cabin filter, I've been buying Mann Frecious cabin filters for a few years now.

@nta16, re getting things wrong, I got it into my head that my car, a 2011 S4, used T27, so, after doing a dummy run in what is needed to replace absolutely every filament light bulb, I bought a compact bit+socket set, a very long 1/4" hex drive extension and a T27 bit as that was missing from the Bacho set I bought - but so far I've never discovered any fixings that used the T27 size, so I reckon that I was wrong there! Five spline fixings, most car makers reserve them for bit the normal motorist should never have to remove - just to avoid someone messing things up. I totally agree with only buying good quality bits, while I was getting access to every filament light bulb on my car and my wife's 2015 Polo, I became aware that the T20 was now worn and the T27 had been partially twisted - so its spines were longer straight, so I replaced them with Wera ones, and bought an extra T27 for my kit in my car. My car came with that screwdriver with the built in wheel bolt spinner in the head and with both Torx and Flat double ended bits, my wife's Polo came with the same screwdriver with the double ended Torx bit, so I bought one with the Flat/Straight double ended bit from ebay, added the Flat/Straight double ended bit to her kit and kept the handle too grab and spin wheel bolts when changing wheels in the garage. My daughter's 2019 Leon Cupra, I seem to remember did not come with any screwdriver at all, so I bought one for her again from ebay - but as usual, it can be tricky to find one at a sensible price, I'd advise anyone thinking of buying that sort of original tool, to check the price from any local VW Group dealer before paying an eBay seller a lot of money for a used one, but sometimes eBay makes for convenience.

If stuck over Carista fault codes, contact them directly for answers, I did that when my wife's 2015 Polo 1.2TSI suffered what Carista translated into Air Conditioning EGR valve issue - I used my VCDS to find out the correct meaning of that code and told them, they did not seem to be concerned, or even grateful!

I think that I reported years ago that VW replaced the AR top gearbox mounting for an AS FOC within warranty because I kept complaining about something like "drive line shunt" after the first service from new, they did remove the original AR mounting and cover/smother it in copper grease first time round, I think that originally was VW's cunning "fix" to get applied during warranty, that did work - for almost a week! I'll save the info about the stiffer lower link for the future - thanks!

Is there not a join where that hose passes through the firewall/bulkhead into the cabin area, below the ABS pump/valve block assembly? That info is not from my personal experience, but gleaned from VW Group motoring forums! Edit:- ah, I see leak source now discovered, maybe consider sticking to the same thread for a single issue in future.

Good, it is best to hand out some details when you have an issue, just in case that issue is only a concern with that engine code. I was going off on another track there, so I can't add anything to this thread.

I think for most of the big issues, ie ones that could cause danger to life of occupants or other road users, VW Group do follow the rules and hand over the info and the re-calling to DVLA, some like the slackening inlet variable cam shaft pulley on the earliest 1.2TSI 16V seemed to be left to being "if advised by owner", some like the leaking of HP petrol on the same engines don't seem to be a concern after all it is only petrol that is spraying out onto the front of the engine and the road, so no real issue - maybe! Lots and lots of "fixes" are only applied if reported by an awkward customer. My wife's previous car, a September 2002 VW Polo 1.4 16V with the BBY engine, did tend to spit out some weird engine fault codes in winter, typically only in January, VW dealer said that nothing had been raised to resolve that, I found out that that was not true 6 or 7 years later, by that time even pressing them to apply the correct S/W patch and me paying for it got me nowhere, they were not interested, so no where else really to turn, so I resorted to clearing logged faults every February from then onwards. My older daughter's November 2009 SEAT Ibiza 1.4 16V ended up having a a battery draining issue, I chased that for a year for more before bumping into some forum info that confirmed that there had been a fix, a BCM S/W patch, so I handed that car into SEAT dealership, problem traced back to a clockspring assembly issue, that part was sourced and replaced, biggish money paid, car handed back, same battery drain as before, handed back in, no fault found, while I was planning my next move, the owner of that group closed down that dealership as it could be sold for in-town housing, I complained to SEAT UK and they said that they would hand me over to the next local SEAT dealership and support that investigation while understanding that I had paid money out already for no fix - that ended up just being "brush off" treatment. A year later I chatted to the next nearest but maybe undesirable SEAT dealership, the service reception guy recognised that very issue as they had just sorted out the same issue on a 2009 VW Polo 1.4 16V in the workshop, so they went through the same procedure with SEAT UK, were guided to where to find the SEAT equivalent S/W patch, and applied it, job done! My point being, both these issues were known about, but left until the customer complained about them before starting to resolve them - in the case of the VW Polo one, never! Edit:- to be fair, it is not just a VW Group issue, I had a case of bubbles appearing in the power steering fluid when the brake pedal was pressed quite a few times with the engine stopped, in my old 1991 Vauxhall Cav GSI 2000 16V 4X4. The correct procedure for checking the power steering fluid level was to first press the brake pedal 10 times, then check the level - I found that fluid was being ejected from the open reservoir due to air being added into it! Had a chat with local Vauxhall workshop, that caused a lot of laughing at my expense from the Tech and mechanics! Maybe 2 months later DVLA sent out a recall for faulty four wheel drive control sphere, I booked it in, no laughing now, a new sphere with a white collar painted on it was fitted, problem solved - at least in that case, Vauxhall did trigger a general safety or semi-safety re-call via DVLA, so maybe I'm wrong and it remains mainly a VW Group issue leaving customers on their own. BTW, that car used the power steering fluid as a control medium for the four wheel drive control.

What engine is in this car?

I had that issue many years ago, that point or area certainly with the BBY 1.4 16V was a bit tight for just slapping in roughly the correct sized repair section, so choose carefully, also the exhaust gets very hot in that area, so pick the grade of flexi repair section that is suitable for that, the correct flexi should have 2 internal wrappings then the protection on the outside. You really do need to get under that car and measure the pipe diameter at that point and also measure the length of the flexi section - ie the full length of the section that has protective mesh covering on it - you will see welds where the flexi section got welded to its stubs - then the stubs are welded to the exhaust pipe. I bought mine from senioraftermarket and got an exhaust specialist to weld it into place - but that was back in the day when the only source for a new exhaust section was VW Group and that meant serious money, if you can buy an aftermarket new exhaust section for not too much, that would be the easy way to fix this as certainly in the earlier BBY engine exhaust, there just was not a free space to fit in a simple "clamp in" clamp, which it not the smart way to fix this any way, welding is. Edit:- I will have submitted the sizes in a thread I raised way back in maybe 2006/2007, I had asked someone to check the dimensions of their flexi section - I needed to do that as my exhaust specialist failed to sort it out correctly first time round - so I could not check the original flexi as it would have been binned and the new one was not the right dimensions!

I've never considered that side and rear glass was covered by windscreen cover and I'm with Admiral But, here are the part numbers LHS rear door glass 5J6 845 205 J for clear glass, K for normal tinted glass, L for tinted but darker tint beyond B pillar LHS rear fixed glass inc bits 5J6 845 209 AF for clear glass > 29/09/13 AJ for clear glass 30/09/13 onwards AG for normal tinted > 29/09/13 AK for normal tinted 30/09/13 onwards LHS rear fixed glass inc bits AH for tinted by darker beyond B pillar > 29/09/13 AL for tinted but darker beyond B pillar 30/09/19 onwards Edit:- would an emergency temp fix with plexi glass not work and be easier at least for your insurer to arrange? Another edit:- I've assumed that your car is not a combi.

I understand what you are saying, like I'd like to hear/say that they understand that this task involves replacing the clutch/flywheel, drive shaft and S/W changing, if nothing else but to give you confidence that what you think is being done, is being done completely as per VW Group instruction for this conversion. It is also important to understand that if you prescribe what you want done, and money is of utmost importance, a more "customer compliant" workshop might try to give you what you have asked for and not completely as they would normal do wrt this task - in a bid to save you some money and to work to your strict directions, most professional workshops would make sure that what they are doing, is exactly what VW Group outlines for that conversion - otherwise they could leave themselves open to the customer trying to back track when things did not go as expected.

Back to the original issue, DMF > SMF, I've just read that the official conversion kit includes a solid RHS drive shaft, and a S/W update.

I've always left that to the individual VW Groups dealership parts departments to provide that for/to me on request, if I was an accomplished user of Ekta ect - and I'm not, I would probably work out where it is located.

That is exactly the purpose of CAR DATA and why it can come in handy - in any individual car model there will be options for lots of parts, CAR DATA defines them for that individual car, and in many cases supplies you with a build date - if that is needed. In my example of a very late build factory customer order car, taking one area into account - suspension, many parts had changed to the face lifted model parts were physically possible, no OEM part web cat I used listed the correct parts, even VW dealership parts people who kept 1,000,000 parts numbers in their heads, like some parts people do, would get it right for me for that car.

Then they would need to sort that supply error out, I'm sure that it happens now and again, this might be where "CAR DATA" comes into it's own, when I had a very late VW Passat 4Motion, the first time I ordered parts for it, my local VW parts man handed out a CAR DATA printout and advised me to hold onto that and use it when requesting parts, from that point on, and that was in maybe 2001 or 2002, I've always made sure that I request a printout of CAR DATA for every new car we, as a family have bought, some times it takes visiting a second dealership if the service/parts people are younger/not interested as they don't always know where to find that info on their system.