rum4mo

I'm not aware of anyone reporting bonded mounting bushes issues/failures on any MK1s onwards.

I'm sure that you checked the rear coil springs while the dampers were being changed - did you?

You should check the oil level before running it again, just in case fuel has been getting into the engine oil and raised its level enough to cause the engine to run from the fuel-oil mix getting into the combustion chamber.

Maybe not the answer that you asked for but, from my experience of buying a Lambda sensor for a relatively "recent" model of car, I'd just buy from a VW Group dealership, they would get you the correct part and at a similar price if you bought the genuine but not VW Group branded same part elsewhere. CCP (contact via facebook is best) will get you the correct part at a good price and it will be a VW Group part. Before posting this, I looked up the NGK website as their NTK brand covers these sensors and is or was a VW group factory supplier, and these 1.2TSI 16V engines do not exist in their catalogue! I found the same when checking up on the NTK part number years ago for a BBY engine, which I only found listed under SEAT, but this time this 1.2TSI 16V is not listed under any VW Group marque. Was I correct in that this engine is a 16V and so its code is CJZC or CJZD ? I think that the second sensor will be easier to deal with as it is out in the open so access is better, it is down stream so not subject to so much heat, also if it is the same as earlier cars, there will be a plastic box mounted on the body quite close to where the sensor is mounted on the exhaust, so the sensor lead will be quite short so handier than feeding it around the engine - that plastic box houses the plug<>socket for that sensor. Edit:- just a thought, you have not run over something and damaged its cable?

I think that all you can do while under warranty, is to remove the pollen filter and see if anything falls out - after that if you find nothing you really will need to suffer the inconvenience, time wasting and annoyance associated with dealing a with any main dealership.

Was that meant as a joke? This material that is in these enclosures/bags has got nothing to do with moisture in this application!

First I don't have a TDI engine in either of our cars, or a Skoda, but, it does seem that 2 versions at least, of these tanks with silicate enclosures in them were used, the original ones had the "tea bags" that could it seems burst, the later ones had a proper enclosure within the structure of the tank and it seems that they were robust enough. It seems that some coolants, maybe only G13 needed these "silicate booster packs" in them to allow for extended protection to the aluminium parts, VW Group's latest factory fill coolant is now G12Evo and these tanks with "Mit Silikat" are no longer fitted to new cars at any VW Group factories. Tanks changed in maybe 01/01/19 and the coolant was changed to G12Evo in 01/0820 - so why the difference in dates if this silicate boosting pack was only needed for G13? For me, VW Group should have made good strong and sound details about these changes available to at least some serious motoring publications as it stands it all sounds a bit like smoke and mirrors being handed out when these questions are being asked. Cars fitted with Mit Silikat tanks can end up with partially choked heater cores, and need to hand over £1000 to get the systems flushed out, heater core and header tank replaced and new coolant added, not clever and it seems money taken without any embarrassment ! Also for 2.0TDI engines built over a certain period in time, there is the possibility of ending up with the same heater core choking, but this time being due to casting sand being left in the engine castings, and with time it can move around the cooling systems and settle down in the heater core - same sort of price to repair! Both well documented VW Group design and manufacturing defects so not wear and tear and not user's fault!

Absolutely, no quick "new callipers, pads and discs" if you have that 256mm set up, still same as mk1 in that area for mk3 cars.

I'm guessing, just guessing that your 1.2TSI 88PS Fabia currently has 256mm front brakes with FSIII callipers, all Polos same platform with the 1.2TSI 110PS engine got 288mm front brakes with a different calliper type, and most Ibiza same platform eventually got 288mm front discs. I don't know what Fabia with 1.2TSI 110PS were fitted with, but I'd hope that they also got 288mm front discs. It might depend if your new insurer is fussy/interested enough to bother to require you to improve your front brakes.

You just need to get a non branded set of round black bolt covers to avoid these silver/grey summer ones getting wiped/ripped off by the snow/slush/ice? Like on VW Polo etc that have a hole in the centre to place a hook on to remove when they are recessed? Or a set of chemi blackened bolts and security bolt? Certainly getting them powder coated should avoid what quickly happened to the first steel wheels I bought for my wife's 2002 Polo, the paint disappeared very quickly and they rusted badly, but I covered that up by buying a cheap set of Golf trims for them - easier to clean in winter!

I suppose the next thing will be if you get approval with just flattening the beams, do you really want to drive a lot in darkness with just a flattened beam, or would you prefer to be have the usual kerbside extended cone of light, which is meant to be there and provide a bit more safety for walkers etc.

You will not be able to swop the pattern of these lights from RHD to LHD, all you do is to flatten the beam which is what most people do or should do before driving "on the other side of the road" - I would think that doing that is only okay for remaining UK reg'd, the minute that you re-reg in a LHD country, you will have to get these headlights replaced and the rear lights replaced as well, or fit a new separate rear fog light both to comply with local laws.

Traction control fault after getting hubs swopped over sounds a lot like an ABS issue, ie a hub without the ABS ring in it or the hub replacement ended up messing up exactly where the ABS ring is now wrt the ABS sensor, a full car scan would inform you about any of that being an issue as. Edit:- also give the brake lights a check to make sure that they are all working as that can or used to cause some faults to appear, an outside shot but free and easy to carry out.

I think that maybe someone has spilt oil down into there when adding engine oil, so I'd just dry off any spilt oil and check it again to see if it appears again. Is there any traces of oil escaping from the dipstick holder top or the oil filler cap?

The thing is, in the great scheme of things, this is a once only replacement within your period of ownership of this car, so I would have done both sides and tried to bin all the parts that I had removed, doing it that way means that this should be the last time you need to do this work, especially if you clean up all the brakes every year or every other year.

I edited my last post by the way!

The Billon dollar question - that seems to be a trade secret so you will not get a true answer to that one! Edit:- always remember that what you load into your car is made out of 2 "parts", the basic spirit is common for all brands who get supplied by a single refinery, that is essential to keep the supply chain sensible, where the brands add their "identity" is at the tanker filling stands at the refineries, as that is where the additive package is added to the spirit, each has their own "brew".

I think that it will be down to personal brand preference really, I have mainly in my motoring life been an Esso user, when a Shell filling station on my route to/from work, and they stocked lots of useful DIYer parts, so I moved across to Shell, as that was in the Central Belt of Scotland and soon after that Shell were starting to get hammered in the motoring press for using suspect/unexpected flame front enhancers, I got a bit concerned, soon after Scot Police maybe in the Fife region, who seemed to be using Esso exclusively, started to have serious engine issues with their VX fleet, I quickly jumped ship back to Esso and suffered the inconvenience, at that time, of saving tokens for maybe soup bowls, luckily that offer ran out quickly! So while I would always chose to opt for Esso, I am also a Costco UL+ user, my decision to fill my S4 up with maybe a couple of tanks of this new Esso 99 hopefully would tie in with using that car for a few long journeys - but no chance of being able to do that for quite a few months!

I thought that Esso had changed their higher octane offering to 99 or a minimum of 99, I've still got to check/try that out, but I'm sure that I read that somewhere.

Did you ever get this sorted out, I think that there are more than a simple single clutch pedal switch, maybe even 3 which need to be read in the correct order by the controller, I'd think starting manually only requires you to have the clutch pedal fully depressed, the auto restarting should I think be initiated before the clutch pedal reaches that point.

Progress is allowed!

Coming into this conversation as an outsider as I don't have an Octavia, I was reading the OP as a question on how to lift the car up in a way that then allows "you" to space axle stands in, in place of the trolley jack. If I'm correct there, then yes these 4 "car's own jack" lifting points that you would use to change a wheel, in my eyes, are the correct positions to locate axle stands. That leaves working out where to lift using a trolley jack, As I don't have any experience of these cars in this sector of VW Group products, I would expect that it would be possible to fit "jack point protectors" like the ones available for some VW Golfs, certainly this appears to be a viable option for SEAT Leons. I have been fitting Audi TT "jacking point protectors" to VW Polos since 2002 or so, at least to 2 Polos, a 2002 one and a 2015 one, and it makes lifting it up using trolley jacks and sitting them on axle stands so easy. My older daughter has a 2019 SEAT Leon Cupra, but she likes to use her money on other more important things, so she or her boyfriend have not investigated retro fitting suitable "jacking point protectors" - by the way, these 4 jacking points tend to be located/are holes that currently are plugged/covered with nylon bungs as opposed to softer rubber bungs, and they were used in the factory to locate the body while it gets moved around the assembly line. I prefer to lift all my family's cars one side at a time by using 2 trolley jacks and so probably place a bit less stress on these points when lifting the car up before placing the axle stands in place, that is my current personal preference and nothing more. Currently I've on a bit and now use devices that allow me to lift my cars and then slip supporting stand while the trolley jacks are still in place, ie by using jackstands, but that costs a lot on money.

Does "vendor" really matter, Skoda were probably being lazy using JCB who are/were JCL's battery division, my wife's 2015 Polo has an Exide battery in it just a EFB, and the coding is for JCB and the serial number is xxxxxxxxx, same for my mate's 2018 T-Roc. Was your original battery an AGM or just an EFB and does your battery management coding options include "chemistry" and if so are you going to change it to "fleece" when you fit this AGM battery? Edit:- I'd that if it should be a zero and not an "O" that vendor change would get rejected - so no harm done and so try to use the "O" instead of zero.

Also check that the source of the leaking oil is not from one of the 2 O-ring seals for that oil separator - these did, for a period in production, end up being known to cause a oil leak, I bought a pair to sort a slight leak on a BXW engine in a late 2009 Ibiza, but it was sold on before I sorted that!

I would have thought if you looked up a VW Group parts cat online, that in the Skoda section, in Fabia MK3 there would be a PDC listed that is a 3 sensor specific coded item with its own unique part number, and if you found one with that unique part number on ebay etc, you would end up with the correct item. Edit:- I checked up on the the meant to be 3 rear sensor controllers and 5Q0 919 283D is listed for cars built up to 2/11/15 and 5Q0 919 283 F is listed for cars built after 2/11/15 So, if you have fitted the correct part number for your age of car, then you should be able to get someone near you who has VCDS to recode that controller to suit your exact car and number of sensors, there will be a "VCDS map" online somewhere that covers most areas of the world. Another Edit:- Skoda Fabia rear 3 sensor only controllers are "283", Skoda Fabia front 4 + rear 3 sensors are "284", VW Polo rear 4 sensor only is "284" and VW Polo front 4 + rear 4 are "288" - obviously you need to add in the correct final letter ie D or F etc to each, but it still looks like "283" is still the correct only part number that supports "rear only 3 sensors" for Skoda Fabia MK3, I'm just curious and trying to help - but probably you have checked up on most of this already, just make sure that it is a "D" and not an "F" that you should have.