HappySam

Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6. I've been using Eagle F1's since before they were asymmetric. I don't / won't buy anything else. Excellent grip, relatively quiet, wear well and work surprisingly well down to really cold temps (I've driven a BMW 330i in slushy snow on them with no problems). https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyre/Goodyear/Eagle-F1-Asymmetric-6.htm

Sorry, mine's a hatchback. See @Tazdazpost above for the correct part number for a Combi.

This is from my 2019 vRS

Have a watch of this. Quite the eye opener;

It shouldn't have happened at all at 30mph so anything's possible 🤷‍♀️ 😁

Here's my theory: as you turned the steering wheel into the corner you also abruptly lifted off the accelerator. As you lift off, the front end digs in and the back end goes light. Net result is a bit of lift off oversteer i.e. the back steps out. At this point the electronics kick in to correct the oversteer. It's possible this includes steering input but I've no idea if that's something the car is capable of.

Are you using Waze? No idea what it sounds like but that has an "alert when speeding" setting.

Just thought I'd give a shout out to Marshall's Skoda Harlow since no one else has. I've had my Octavia for 2 1/2 years now. It's been for a couple of services and most recently an MOT (I have an extended warranty / service plan which includes 2x MOTs) at Marshall's (even though they have to take it elsewhere for the MOT). It came back from the MOT today with a minor advisory for front pads "Offside Front inner pad wear wire looks almost on disc". At no point did they try to sell me new pads, let alone new disks which is often a complaint you hear about main dealers. I had to ask for a price (which I won't be taking them up on). Even when the service agent checked the disks they said I'd probably get another set of pads out of them. In fact, they've never tried to sell me anything and were 100% helpful when the rear wiper motor started failing, getting it replaced under the - then pretty new - extended warranty. Would 100% recommend.

Someone on this thread has changed their grille so it must be possible. Post about half way down says how he did it. Whether you can buy the original on its own is another thing.

3. The check engine light always comes on with the ignition and goes off when the engine starts. This is so you can check someone hasn't removed the bulb to hide a fault. If it isn't on when the engine is running you didn't noticed it before. 4. Looks to straight to be a crack. Could be a row of dying pixels. Does it stay in the same place if you move the map? Is it there on other screens?

Probably worth taking a look at this thread:

Welcome to the forums. Personally I think it's more likely to be the caliper if it's not already been replaced / rebuilt. I had a similar issue on another car where a caliper would stick on. Was 'OK', once it cooled down till next time it got hot. Solution was to replace the caliper (quicker and easier than stripping and rebuilding). ABS fault would most likely throw a warning light on the dash but it's probably worth scanning for error codes. Not sure if generic OBD readers will do this so might be worth getting a decent indi or someone local with VCDS to do it.

Of course they can. There's currently over 600 cars on AutoTrader with a "Stage 1" tune. Edit: just realised OP is in Austraila, may be different there. No it isn't. They may not have even realised it had been remapped. That's one way but as I understand it - though I am happy to be corrected by more knowledgable people - there is a bit set in the ECU when it's remapped. It may also be possible to interrogate this.

Thanks. Mine's not damaged, just loose. I'll stick with ensuring the plug is in straight

I would agree with this. Having gone through a few usb leads I noticed the socket is very loose. If I make sure the plug is centred everything works fine. If not, its hit and miss. Do you know the TPI reference and/or fix? My car is in for a service in a couple of weeks so I will raise it, if its worthwhile.

Face on view here: Any oem switch would also be mentioned in the owners manual.

Big thread on the subject here;

I have a Galaxy A52 5G dual sim (with two cards on separate networks) and while it's connected to an Amundsen and not a Bolero, everything displays and works as it should. Sounds like it's an issue with the Bolero rather than the phone. Are you running the latest software? This thread might help with that;

3M VHB tape. Available in various applications, colours and widths. Be careful where you buy it from there is a lot of fake stuff out there.

I've used https://www.dcpaintsolutions.com/ and https://www.paints4u.com/ in the past. It is quite time consuming and challenging to get a good finish with rattle cans particularly over a large area. You might be better off asking a local paint shop to spray it.

When I bought my Octavia I got a spec sheet from this eBay seller for 3 euros; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243. Arrived in a couple of hours I recall.

Can't see this posted elsewhere but Skoda are currently offering 20% off service plans. https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-plan £365 for two services vs. £465 if bought separately (might vary by car. This is for my Octavia vRS).

Mine does that occasionally if I pull the stalk back before it's completely finished the wipe. I just assumed the electronics are getting confused and wait until the wipe is finished before pulling the stalk back.

Sandable but you'll never get it smooth. Layer it behind and put a coat of body filler on it. You sound like a proper bodger. Don't forget to stuff it full of newspaper and wire tie a coke can round it 🤣 It's fibreglass tape. The stuff they make medical casts from. A couple of layers will set solid across the back of the gap. Layer filler on, sand and paint. Do agree that's colour matching might be tricky. But hey, what do I know. I've only actually done exactly what the op is trying to do. I'll leave you to it