fr1nklyn

Thanks @J_D! I’ve just managed to do it by putting on the arm on the right place and clipping it by pushing it with a big screwdriver on top. My fingers are fat, that was the issue 😂

I’ve just changed my cabin/pollen filter on a little more than 10k miles and wanted to show you the difference( the one on the right was as clean as the one on the left ). I’ve also took a shot of the label on the new filter box. I wanted to buy Mahle, but found Knecht on a better price. It’s the same company and therefore the products they offer. BTW do you have any tips how attach back the little arm for slow falling of the glove box? It’s a pain in the neck, back and everything 😀

Yeap, I've driven in almost the same temps and the first few minutes are like my grandma is engaging the clutch on a manual as fast as she could. Especially from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd. Higher gears are switched in much better way. In the winter mornings, I even started to avoid pressing the gas pedal until the car switches automatically from 1st to 2nd gear, otherwise that "fast engaging" shaking is noticed.

I haven't done it myself, but it's on my list. There are higher priority retrofits You can check this thread

I've collected data about pour and flash points, and viscosity index of several different DSG oil brands( tell me if I'm missing a big brand offering a DSG oil ): ________________________________ Pentosin FFL-2 Pour Point: -51 C Flash Point: 224 C Viscosity Index: 173 Motul DCTF Pour Point: -45 C Flash Point: 196 C Viscosity Index: 189 Valvoline DCT Pour Point: -48 C Flash Point: 188 C Viscosity Index: 171 Ravenol Pour Point: -51 C Flash Point: ? Viscosity Index: ? Amsoil DCT Pour Point: -58 C Flash Point: 230 C Viscosity Index: 171 Redline DCTF Pour Point: -45 C Flash Point: ? Viscosity Index: 177 Liqui Moly 8100 Pour Point: -48 C Flash Point: 200 C Viscosity Index: 174 Wolf EcoTech DSG Pour Point: -50 C Flash Point: 198 Viscosity Index: 170 Millers Millermatic ATF DCT-DSG Pour Point: -51 C Flash Point: 198 Viscosity Index: 172

I don’t think that VW is using different DSG oil in different regions, it expensive enough to cover logistics spending. Plus the FFL-2 is offered almost worldwide For the engine oil, they do it for sure. But the variety is greater and it’s changed much more often, so it doesn’t really matter for the 100k km warranty period. Castrol, Shell, whoever offers the lowest price I guess..

Just googled it and seems that you’re right that only DQ200 (dry clutch ones) have been affected by the fully synthetic to mineral or semi-syn change. Which makes the things even more appetite - if DQ250 already uses synthetic oil and the only VW-approved oil is Titan/Pentosin FFL-2, then the OEM one is either produced by this company or at least has very close characteristics to it. Actually I don’t think that someone is producing oil only for VW and not selling it as their own product, so most likely OEM = Titan/Pentosin. So why no one has compared the FFL-2 spec with a DSG oil offered by another brand and chose something maybe better for their transmission? Something with better wear protection, lower pour and higher flash points. Or just used FFL-2 instead of the OEM?

Hi Guys, Wondering has anyone tried an alternative DSG oil? I'm observing poor transmission performance when the outside temp is below zero( pulling and shaking ) during the winter months. And also when the oil is really hot - let's say if I drive it with 80-100mph on the highway and then enter in the city and drive it in traffic. The car is on 75k miles and Skoda said the DSG(the bulletproof DQ250) box is working fine. I just want to try another oil in order to try to cure this behavior... I've read that VW has moved from full to semi synthetic oil over the years due to issues which is one of my concerns not to do it. On other side reputable brands like Amsoil, RedLine, Motul, Liqui Moly and others, are offering their own DCT oil alternatives. It's also interesting that the only approved(correct me if I'm wrong) non-OEM oil is Titan/Pentosin FFL-2. Others are marked as recommended..

This is the right time to install double USB socket in the rear https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32987365210.html or similar for less than 50 bucks.

If that's the case go and get an OEM one, then. As a tip, hand tight it first and then slightly with the regular socket wrench if you don't have a torque wrench. The idea is to "smash" the oil o-ring a little, that's it. It doesn't hold the engine after all Good luck!

Sure, no problem. It's like £25-30 from Skoda. But you don't need to buy an OEM one.

It looks like someone has overtightened it. It should be torqued to something like 25Nm. The little drain plug should be 5Nm. The part number is 03N115433. Change it with the filter and the o-ring included in the filter box, because you’re already there and as you already noticed its location isn’t great

My 2c for the cabin filter is that it really depends on the country and area you live. I live in а really dusty city and even if you get the most expensive cabin filters like Mann FP or Mahle Caremetix, you still need to change them no more than 8, maximum 10 months. They can last an year, but you start to smell the diesel exhaust from the old bus or truck in front of you Here is an example of a cabin filter which needed replacement after less than 9500 miles: https://www.drive2.com/l/502761588478967927/ Odors from outside, foggy windows and blocked vents are all indications of a cabin filter for replacement.

@MABRO I also like DIY jobs like you do, that’s why I registered in this forum actually I don’t use anything specific as a guide, but when I want to do something myself, I check more than one source then collect and filter the best of all of them. I use google, youtube, this forum, golf mk7 forum and audi forums as well. Our engines are from EA288 family used by A3 and Golf 7 as well, so don’t limit your search by skoda only. drive2.com is also a great place DIY stuff, you can you Chrome browser translate option. If you want good quality instructions on paper, you can pay 7 euros for an hour in Erwin system and download everything you need. Then I think you have to print it, because there is some kind of protection, but better check this thread about it

You don’t need VCDS for the fuel filter, just top off with diesel when you replace the filter. I actually, top off with Liqui Moly Diesel Purge, because I rarely change the filter and want some fuel system cleaning. Not sure does it help or everything is in my head.. Lubricate the gasket with diesel as well. I used to purge my old 1.9TDI by turning on and off the ignition. Not sure is this applicable for the EA288 engines.

Rear diff requires about 1,5 liters 75w90 GL-5 oil. The front one about 900-1000ml again 75w90 GL-5. @fj1200a It’s possible that you didn’t drain the full amount or you didn’t fill the right amount. In both cases you have to double check it. You fill until the oil starts to drain from the fill plug. Be sure that you lifted not only the rear of the car, but also the front one in order to get the right amount of oil in the diff. If the noise hasn’t been observed after the Haldex oil change, but after diff oil change, so the issue is with dif. But since you’re there check both levels - the plugs are very close to each other. Check this post and the video link few comments after:

@BATI2TAThank you very much for the feedback! This will save money to many of us wondering would the oil pump change fix the issue. Much appreciated!

More than 130 pounds for a glow plug... What's wrong with the VW guys?! https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/1-4-1-6-2-0-tdi-common-rail-glow-plugs-with-pressure-sensor.html

Is there place where you can do some italian tune up? If yes, I would do the following: 1. Add a bottle of Archoil 6400-D and top up till the tank is full 2. Drive on higher revs, lower gear for 30min - 2000-2500 at least 3. Then don’t refill until the tank is 1/4 4. Do the next oil change as soon as possible - e.g. 2-3k miles. 5. Do a 15 min flush(idling!) before changing the oil. Use something high detergent and harmless for the seals, they all say so, but I would go with Lubegard’s or Amsoil’s flush. I’ve tried the first and it’s great. 6. Forget about the **** oil sold by the dealer, Shell, Castrol, etc.. Add some good high synthetic oil - Ravenol VMP is a great 507.00 oil. Amsoil European Series 5w30 as well, Redline 5w30 507.00 which is a bit expensive but very good too.. I only heard that Millers have good oils, but I haven’t tried any because it’s pretty hard to find it outside UK. I think Opie Oil have filter by PAO and Ester based oils, do search for one of these which meets VW 507.00 and find a reputable place where you can buy it( you don’t have to buy from them). 7. Them try to change the oil no more than 10-12k/year whatever comes first. I guarantee for the Archoil 6400 and Ravenol VMP, these two are really good. I hope that you’ll forget about this soon! Good Luck

Both front bearings were changed on mine too. It was done under warranty on around 110000 km, but I think they failed at around 90000…

@Srkigtd 5w30 oils meeting 504/507 spec are low SAPS oils, but the 5w40 are usually mid- or full-SAPS oils. Meaning that with the same oil consumption the DPF will regenerate more often and accumulate more ash with 5w40. Stick to the 5w30 if you want to keep that DPF for a bit longer. Try some full synthetic oil with PAOs and/or esters like Millers, Ravenol, Amsoil, Rowe or something like. At least you'll know that the engine is better protected. The oil consumption won't decrease.. IMO with your oil consumption you can change your oil every 20k km if you use a good oil brand. You add enough additives with the fresh oil which you're topping every 1000km. If the oil filter wasn't at the bottom of the engine, I would I would still change it every 10k km. That's what I do with my thirsty 1.9 tdi.. But the filter there is on top.

Cut that trunk @Vahids and get a good looking handle and well known reverse camera

Some people report casting sand in their coolant. As the rest already said, go the dealer and let them fix it.

I think I left my DRL strips only for CH/LH with the following VCDS changes: (8)-Leuchte6ABL LC5-Lichtfunktion C 6 - left as active (8)-Leuchte7ABL RB1-Lichtfunktion C 7 - left as active (10)-Leuchte6ABL LC5-Dimmwert CD 6 - value change from 127 to 0 (10)-Leuchte7ABL RB1-Dimmwert CD 7 - value change from 127 to 0 (11)-Leuchte6ABL LC5-Dimming Direction CD 6 - change to minimise (11)-Leuchte7ABL RB1-Dimming Direction CD 7 - change to minimise

I think the dealer is following the ridiculous VW flush recommendations when that happens.. In another thread someone had this “service” under warranty and it was including 6 or 8 flushes following some extra steps, plus the new G12Evo coolant on double price because it’s ‘ready for use’ mix.