fr1nklyn

I would do it as well if the filter location wasn’t under the engine on the tdi 😂

Hi, I had a bad inner joint on my O3 several months ago. Basically what I experienced was vibration under load on high speed l 100-120km/h( 60-65mph ), or when going uphill on lower speeds. No noise was observed except the resonance caused by the vibration. It wasn’t happening all the time, but let’s say often in the mentioned conditions.

Completely agree with @CristianCCI! VW service intervals are piece of ****! I bought mine with full service history on its 4th year and 100k km with 3 oil changes... Three! It was hard to find same model with more frequent service intervals because all of them were following "VW Service Plan". For my car the PR code in the service book shows QI5 which is variable service(30k km or 2 years whichever comes first). At the moment I bought the car I started changing it every 10k km and thankfully I have no oil consumption issues so far(CUNA engine). There are people with same engines CUPA and CUNA who did the service on half of the recommended interval and have no oil consumption issues as well. It's not the engine, it's the service plan! VW service plans are intended to force you to change the car every 4 years, making the vehicle maintenance for that period cheap and of course more eco-friendly... Someone who understand a little bit of engine oils will know that there is no oil keeping its properties after 15k km, even if you only do highway miles. Neither PAOs nor Esters, sorry. It's uncommon for people in Europe and UK to do oil analysis of their engine oils. But many guys in US do, and you can see their test results from laboratories like Blackstone labs where oil properties degrade significantly during the variable service intervals. Such test results can be seen in BITOG and Oil Club.ru forums if you are interested.

I’m wondering how often was the oil changed? Do you have a service history?

Isn’t it 1 year/12k miles? I am not saying that’s what Skoda recommends, but what air filter manufacturers put as change intervals? I’m pretty sure that’s what I read on Mann’s packaging last time I changed mine.

I use that one in black from the Chinese guys because my seats are black alcantara https://a.aliexpress.com/_uAA6BV it has some pockets for tablets and bottle and other stuff. And for the seat protectors under the toddler seats https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUV1Cj And a tablet, and I still hear them.. 😅

Since this is the most complete topic/thread about the size of the roof bars, I decided to ask here Would the 4x bike racks fit on 120cm aero bars or 127 cm is the choice I'm looking for? Thanks!

I didn't know about the TRW PFG110 grease so I used the Permatex Silicon Ceramic Extreme which again says that it's for slider pins. TRW PFG110 is significantly cheaper..

Yes, VW started to use 0w30 instead of 5w30 in the last couple of years or even more. This is the trend, car manufacturers have to meet more ecological requirements and by using thinner oil car consumes slightly less and therefore produces less emissions. That shouldn't worry you any way because both oils meet the required standards for your car 504/507.00. Plus 0w30 should provide slightly better consumption and wear protection especially when cold. Both behave similarly when the engine is running on its operating temperature. ----------- 0w30 has less ash compared to proposed 5w40, but will more likely be burnt more than 5w40 filling the DPF even more, especially when there are issues with the oil rings. Your consumption of 0,5l per 6k is pretty normal and I would stick with 0w30 meeting 504/507.00.

My 6sp DQ250 is a bit jerky when cold but you can easily get used to it. I bought the car second hand and the transmission behavior was horrible. I had to adapt it with VCDS and is now much better. I do the adaptation every time I service it and I can say that’s right way of doing this for my needs(50/50 city highway driving)

200-300k miles shouldn’t be a problem. Continue changing the oil every 10k with full synthetic one and service rest of the fluids on time, and everything will be fine.

Why don't you try the Archoil 6400d? I'm not advertising it, but that's what it works for me and I put it once a year. Put it when your tank is almost empty at the gas station just before filling up. Then drive till 1/4 tank and fill up again to full. That's it.

You don’t run diesel on low fuel because of the sediment, but because the active DPF regeneration cannot start if the tank is less than 1/4 full.

Yeah, other people in the forum practice the same - premium fuel every 3rd or 4th tank. With these gas prices I prefer an additive - it’s cheaper and the result is the same. E.g. Oilsyn, Archoil 6900 or Millers Ecomax. I personally don’t trust others.

1/ Are you sure it's an injector which causes the issue? It could be a fuel filter or something else. Try to get it diagnosed first, maybe 2/ If you are sure it's injector note that injector cleaners are two-edged swords - they can help you, but they can also make the things worse. If other debris or gunk is "cleaned" from your tank by the same injector cleaner, it will go into your fuel filter and eventually through your injectors. So you should try it on your own risk. 3/ I'd heard good things about Archoil AR6400, but when I tried it, the only thing I noticed was that the DPF regenerations became a bit less often for few months. So I can't tell you is it working or not.

BTW the wear sensor is only one for an axle, right? Or I lost one 😅

I hope that one day that will work in my country as well If that didn't work, try cleaning it first. It costs like £200-300 compared to £1500 or so for a new DPF. Usually a DPF could be cleaned once or twice before replacement. But due to a rust formed by the harsh chemicals used for the cleaning, sometimes only once...

HAha these guys are crazy. I just did mine on the same car. Bought front ATE solid discs and front+rear ATE Ceramic break pads for about £180.

It is “6”, but it’s sold together with the caliper bracket and not as independent part. I think I’ll have to use an aftermarket part.

I usually buy stuff from Autodoc via Mobile app because it has better discount than the web platform. I added my car profile inside the app and now I just leave filters and other parts in the "basket" until the discount reaches 30-35%. The highest is 40% but rarely happens. For the oil, it depends on where are you located. I purchase it from Germany, from Auto24.de, but if you are located in UK, there could be better local places like OpieOil or even Halfords. I've seen good Millers oil sample reports, but never used it because it's hard to find outside UK.

Thanks a lot @Carlston! I prefer the OEM ones, since the pins had no issues at 135k km. But do you know, does the 7N0698647A include the pins as well or only the “protective sleeves”/rubbers?

So if it runs good and you have no other issues except the oil consumption, just drive it and have the habit to add oil every 1000 miles. Don’t drive it without oil…

Exactly what @Ecomatt said. It’s not worth the money. Just add oil if there is no significant power loss or failure. I had an A4 with such issues and spent a lot of money for turbo, pcv, valve stem seals, piston rings, etc. The consumption was decreased, but not as expected. I was adding 1 liter per 2000 miles after the rebuild. Was driving like that 60-70k miles like that with no other issues. Finally it did a hole in the piston most likely due to injector failure at 200k miles. Just drive it, this engine is known for its oil consumption.

Hello Guys, Can you help me with the part number of the front brake guide pins and bolts? I’m with 312 discs on Octavia Scout 4x4 2.0TDI184 engine CUNA. Not sure why but when I search for it, it says it’s part of the whole caliper. And the rubber boots have part number which in some places shows that includes the pins on other don’t - 7N0 698 647 A. There is also the same part number but ending with “B”.. So I’m really not sure which one is the right part number for them For those wondering why I change them - one of the bolts was corroded and broke inside the pin.. 🙄 and also I an idiot.

Nope, Valeo is low quality brand - look at the online tests done with different filter brands and you’ll see. You don’t need to change the fuel filter that often. The best for me seems to be: 1/ Oil + oil filter every 7-8k miles. 2/ Air Filter - every next oil change, e.g 14-16k miles. 3/ Pollen Filter - every 10k miles. 4/ Fuel Filter - every 4th oil change - ~30k miles.