fr1nklyn

I've just checked that diff takes 0.9L of 75w90 oil, so it should be enough. Did you try to add more Haldex oil after running the car for 1-2 minutes or priming the pump? If not I would try to do it because as I said, it usually takes additional 100-150ml. Did the noise appear after you changed the oils or later on? You said that 2 months later you realized that maybe you didn't fill the right amount of oils? If the noise appeared after some time, there could be a leak or the oil may not be appropriate. I would highly recommend you to use OEM oils for the diff and haldex modules. There might be others, but the only alternative Haldex oil I know which is good is the Ravenol AWD-H, but it's not VW approved, only recommended... So if you're not sure, stick with the OEMs.

Hi @Username_Login, please start a new thread as it seems as a different issue. You fill the haldex till some oil starts to drip, put the fill plug and start the engine for 1-2 minutes to prime the pump. Then you remove the plug and add 100-150ml until again oil starts to drip(you can prime the pump with VCDS as well). By gear oil you mean diff oil I guess? Diff requires 1-1.1 liters of oil. Again needs to be filled until oil starts to drip. it’s strange that it happens after 15 mins of drive and not before that. Oil “expands” a little when it reaches operating temp, but it’s really unnoticeable with these amounts.. Maybe you confused the haldex and diff fill holes because they are next to each other. Not sure..

@captain uncertain I haven't taken my car from the local garage yet, but hopefully the diff rebuild is successful 🤞 I'll provide an update when I take the car. I do have 1000km trip next week, so I'm still unsure should I travel with the car if I take it 3-4 days before or not.. It's also due for an engine and transmission oil change, but I don't have time for that before the trip 😕 I'm keen to try the Amsoil DCT in the DQ250 instead of the OEM trans oil - those 150 euro are waiting on the shelf in my basement

I would do the same if there was a rebuild kit with all the bearings and stuff like on the Mk2. But in my case there is no such kit for Mk3 and I had to wait for long time for some of the bearings to be shipped( not something I like in the summer months). The bearing they changed was available in the workshop. They said it’s also used on many diffs on BMWs and is prone to failure there as well.

They call it tapered roller bearing, exactly the one shown in this video with P/N LM 503349/QCL7C: and in this post in a Russian forum as well: https://www.drive2.ru/l/620840890964932544/?page=0#comments There also other forums mentioning same bearing issues on VW Golf R and Audi A3. This fault isn’t rare..

Only the roller bearing was changed, the rest were looking like new.

I believe some members here chose Febi and Swag. Btw I sent my differential for rebuild. It was that roller bearing as I had thought at the beginning. The workshop took me €150 for rebuilding it, hopefully the gaps requirements are met and no noises will be observed when the local garage fits it back on the car next week. Most likely I will need to pay local garage €300 for removing and fitting back the diff. Plus €90 for haldex and diff oils. 🥹 And around €50 for shipping costs as the workshop which changed the bearing is 500kms from my city.. So I think the final price will be around €600-700, hopefully 🙄

Sorry to tell you but these CUPA engines are known to have high oil consumption when long oil change intervals are used, and not only.. The DPF is most likely full and tries to regenerate all the time because of the high fuel and oil consumption. There are plenty of forum threads here like this one

I don't fancy those third party devices, honestly speaking. Built-in hardware/module errors are handled for sure, so either removing the S/S cable from battery or setting the battery voltage limit below 12V via VCDS, should be less harmful(if harmful at all) to the car. Whereas errors triggered by a third party devices aren't handled for sure and therefore hide unknown surprises (talking as a test engineer in similar field)

Yeah, I agree with you. It would be much easier if the button state was remembered for a driving mod and also when car is restarted.

200 km regeneration is normal interval for EA288 EU6 engines in city or more spirited mixed driving. And 400+ for highway. There are others like you who have cleaned their DPF, reset the ash level to 0 and still observe similar regen intervals. Maybe only a remap can extend these periods, but the question is does it worth it since everything is fine on the car. Just drive and ignore it

I’m feeling exactly the same.. Not to mention the feeling when I want to join quickly in the roundabout and car shuts the engine just before I want to make it really quick.. Not to mention what stress it makes on the Flywheel when it starts and stops the engine 20 times while being in a traffic jam. @EnterNameYou don’t need to by one of those shady switches.. just unplug it from the battery 😃 https://youtu.be/DafjVxuTjFk (there are no errors on the dash or anything - car just mentions for a second that S/S system is deactivated on when you start the car)

Just turn it off (the S/S) To your questions - ECU monitors the battery, oil, coolant temperature, DPF regeneration status and so on, and if anything doesn't meet the requirements - it does deactivate the S/S. E.g. if DPF is regenerating or the battery is low, start-stop system will be automatically deactivated. So no worries - nowadays, the cars are smarter than us..

Ravenol VMP is pretty good oil - I also prefer it. It remains stable for long time and has high evaporation point. Unfortunately it became a little expensive in the last couple of years... 😕 I change it every 10-12k km/6-7k miles, but if you don't do so much start/stop traffic trips like I do, I believe it will even be good for 10k miles.

I don’t know but you can hope for it, having in mind the DPF reaches 600-700 C during a regen. Keep in mind that regens always produce some slight burning smell, so don’t expect that to disappear completely.

I did this twice for my 15 years experience with the diesel engines. Hopefully not, but… Just have it in mind

Hey mate, wait a second, why do you try to drive with “hand brake is not fully disengaged”? Do you know what break pads brand was used by the mechanic - maybe the invoice could include it? There is usually rattling when some aftermarket brands are used on these cars, but not squeaking. It happens because some aftermarket pads are slightly smaller then the OEM ones. How many km have you driven since the pads change? Maybe they need to bed in a little more. A usually put a little copper grease on the “ears” of the pads and if there is rubber back sticker on the pad, I add some grease there as well(on the contacting points). This usually prevents squeaking. I see that you had changed the rear discs as well, try to bed them in on a safety place: Try to slow down from 30kmh to 10, then 50 to 10 and them 80 to 10. Something Ike that, without fully stopping in order to let the pads cool down. Repeat this several time. You may want to check for exact “break pads/rotors break in procedure”.

Where did you sprayed the DPF cleaning foam because what you see behind the engine is the catalytic convertor? I haven’t tried such cleaning method but from the product name I suppose this needs to be sprayed in the DPF which is underneath the catalytic convertor. The problem with petrol is that it’s dry and the return fuel doesn’t lubricate the injectors and they get worn out, but hopefully for the few km you had driven, nothing happened. Next time add some 2T oil if you can’t remove the petrol immediately Try to force regen the DPF with the diagnostic software, ask the mechanic to try to do so.

@captain uncertain I’m not sure are there irreplaceable bearings - I think there was a post in drive2.ru showing that each bearing has a part number. I will try to find that thread. @J.R. If I recall correctly dealer said that diff unit isn’t sold separately and needs to be bought together with the Haldex 😕 In either case, it’s most likely this bearing+new diff oil. And it’s not worth the price of a new unit. I just need to find who to replace it as the nearest place which does this is 500km from me..

You don't want to see the price of it - sorry I don't have the part number, because I declined to pay 4000 euros. It's just a roller bearing which needs to be replaced and internal gaps to be adjusted according to specifications. A shop working on manual transmissions and differentials should be able to do the job for you. When they open the diff they will see the part number of the worn out bearing which in 90% of the cases is "LM 503349/QCL7C" according to my research in VW and Audi forums. It seems to be known issue... I'm trying to find a shop near me which can do the replacement for mine since I have the issue as well.

Reviving this old thread, @Bushlake I know you haven’t been active in a while, but if you are still driving the car, can you share is everything alright with the diff since the rebuild? I am about to the the same on mine and am wondering should I rebuild it or look for a second hand one.

Let them bed in. How often do you reverse? You’re overthinking it 😃

EGR is rarely an issue on these cars, as it’s positioned after the DPF. I’m thinking about cleaning the DPF without dissembling, with Wurth or Presto’s foam sprays. And maybe to reset the DPF values to 20% after that.

Mine also does this now on 150k km, but when I bought it on 100k, it used to regenerate every 400-500km.. I don’t think the DPF got clogged twice as fast for 50k km as it did for the first 100k. Have you visited the Skoda dealer since you bought the car? I suspect them for installing emission update as part of other work they did on the car. 🤨

If it’s rattle due to the slightly lower size of the pads, it won’t go away regradless of the amount of grease you put. If it’s more like squeaking, let them bed in for some more time.