Binx1310

Yes. Passenger side is fine and I know others that have used the same bulbs without issue.

I’ve got an intermittent fault with my drivers side headlight. I had a flickering drivers side bulb a few months ago so took it as an opportunity to upgrade to LED. Passenger side has been fine with no issues at all. Drivers side has continued to have faults. A bit sluggish to turn on sometimes and now I’m getting a Warning on the dash and a fault code: Right low beam headlamp bulb - Open circuit/short circuit to B+ Sometimes the light comes back on of its own accord even with the warning still showing. Sometimes the fault will clear and light still not work. Has anyone seen this before? Is it ballast? Maybe loose connection? Hoping to have some pointers before I undergo the mammoth task of dropping out the arch lining to get to the bulb! I’ve still got the old HID bulbs so may try swapping one out and seeing if the fault goes away.

I believe air care uses the recirculation flap. I wonder if it’s because you have a current fault code for the flap It prevents you enabling it @tombee

Some are on a worm gear so you won’t be able to move them if the actuator isn’t trying to move them too. If you carefully remove pollen filter you can see the flap at the back of it. It’s recommended to slip a bit of cardboard beneath filter to catch any crud that is sitting on top of filter otherwise it goes into the fan. Or just take it to dealer If it’s still under warranty!

duplicate

The calibration thing sorted my stick recirc flap. This is just above the pollen filter so sometimes detritus on the filter can get stuck in it. I think mine might have been the extra wiring from the reversing camera fouling it too. But could be a failed actuator. Not expensive and pretty easy to change.

Yes. Mine was stuck. The flap is above the pollen filter above the glove box. You can try moving the flap with your fingers. But first try a recalibration. You can do it with carscanner or by holding AC and front vent button for a few seconds until the lights start flashing. If not then it will be the actuator. I had to change the one for the main diverter. £10 from Amazon for a non genuine. And about 20 Mins to change.

I used fuse 48 (blind spot detection) There’s a couple of the smaller blade fuses that are switched too. You can go through them with multimeter and get someone to switch on/off for you. I think there’s only a few that are switched AND enough space for the jumper.

That’s just the trouble, People don’t think! I’m always super paranoid working around airbags and routing cables. It takes no more than a few minutes extra and some small Cable ties to be sure.

Long coding 6D bootlid Hard reset

Worth a check with code reader. Sounds like BCM/ other control system is knocking power off to protect circuit. The reset process seems to suggest it’s some Kind of protection. Something might be shorting out. Will Hopefully show up a clue on the code reader.

Go to long coding, boot lid and then scroll to bottom and select hard reset.

Is the quoted version what you have or what you are looking to update to? If it is what you have then it’s the latest version. https://mib-helper.com/index.php?train=MST2_EU_SK_ZR_PO480T#details If it’s not what you have then enter your current version on to MiB helper and it will direct you to the correct version to download.

It seems very hit and miss as to if it works with carscanner. Perhaps try a hard reset in the relevant long coding section?

Thanks. Looking forward to getting a chance to change the roof bars too as I think will really finish it off.

Some sunshine and a bit of downtime meant I could continue with the chrome delete project. I decided to start wrapping the chrome around the windows. Not too bad of a job and I’m really pleased with the result. Slow and steady is the secret. And gentle applications of heat in key spots. Drivers side all done. But I’m now out of scalpel blades so have ordered some up and will hopefully finish the other side tomorrow.

Some sunshine and a bit of downtime meant I could continue with the chrome delete project. I decided to start wrapping the chrome around the windows. Not too bad of a job and I’m really pleased with the result. Slow and steady is the secret. And gentle applications of heat in key spots. Drivers side all done. But I’m now out of scalpel blades so have ordered some up and will hopefully finish the other side tomorrow. I followed this guide which is good for the basics.

I find Spotify does this on my 2016 MIB2 using wireless CarPlay dongle from time to time. Only thing I have found is press pause before it disconnects. Not sure if it’s an iPhone issue or MIB issue but it seems to be intermittent as to when it does it.

Decent obd reader should give you the part number causing the fault code or at least point to it by name that you can then interpret.

Yes I did wonder that as it’s quite different to the ones on my wife’s MY21 kodiaq. They do have the part number and “made in Germany “ on the back not that that counts for much!

Fitted new black ŠKODA centre caps today. Didn’t look right with the slightly pale grey but caps so got some Matt black nut caps to match. The centre caps are slightly larger and stand slightly proud compared to OEM but I like the cleaner non-chrome (and non corroded!) look. Black Skoda Logo Centre Cap Stickers https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009034228022.html Black Blank Centre Caps https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D73BN87K Matte Black Nut Caps https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B094FCNTT2 Also bought some positioning pins to make installing the wheels that bit easier. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006157081259.html

Fitted new black ŠKODA centre caps today. Didn’t look right with the slightly pale grey but caps so got some Matt black nut caps to match. The centre caps are slightly larger and stand slightly proud compared to OEM but I like the cleaner non-chrome (and non corroded!) look. Links will be on my project page.

Took a wheel off to test fit the new black centre caps. Non OEM so expected they would need some fettling. Nothing a few rounds of insulation tape on the back side won’t fix. First time using positioning pins for installing the wheels. What a game changer! I also ordered a 1/2” drive adaptor for my drill as I don’t own an impact. That’s a revelation too. Very useful for running nuts in once started by hand, and out and also operating scissor jack. Effortless to lift the car

User manual states 140NM. Doesn’t differentiate wheel type or size.

I use 140NM for my 18s. Didn’t realise it should be 120. I shall have to check manual. I’ve now got 2 retaining pins and looking forward to changing the wheel at some point to try them out!