R_Blue

I also think oil cap design is not very good. The rubber around the cap loses its stiffness over time and sometimes it leaks oil. I've never heard oil cap popping out before but I saw pictures of secured oil caps like this before: http://kenssite.hstudios.co.uk/tb2.jpg Is this one an MPI thing? You were lucky. Like double lucky. Thanks for sharing the story.

Likely so. If this happens again, maybe I should take the hard way and rebuild the diode array itself with known parts. Looks like they use 1N3660 and 1N3660R or 1N3494 and 1N3494R. Check 00:50

8 months later. When cruising in the city, all of a sudden, I started to hear a whining or howling noise coming from the engine. I thought engine was suffering a terrible fault. Then, I noticed the battery light was faintly lit. Also voltage value in the dashboard showed sub 12 at idle and 14.4 at 2000 rpm. That wasn't normal. When I disconnected the alternator cable, whining sound has gone. This is very unexpected because I did the renovation only 8 months ago. I checked the voltage regulator and one of the carbon brushes was almost gone. I could see the copper in the middle. While the other one was almost as long as new. I bought a new voltage regulator. Max. voltage limit returned 14 at dashboard but battery light was still faintly lit. Alternator was still whining. Like this: After some research, the problem could be a faulty diode in the array. I bought a new array, soldered it and the problem is gone. 8 months ago I've replaced ball bearings, voltage regulator and the diode array. Why would a carbon brush gets grinded down while the other one stays not affected? Why would a diode array only lasts for eight months?

I can replace it but it will be Vika or other brands like that. My main concern was about reliability. Same thing happened with alternator and distributor. When I wanted to check local stores for an alternator, some of them told me that they weren't selling aftermarket (Chinese?) alternator because they had got plagued with customer complaints and high return rate. They told me even if I found one, stay away from it. Best approach is rebuilding original one. So they don't make car parts like they used to make in the good old days. So this topic was like: Hey! what do we do with the fans when they got bad? Rebuild? or buy? Majority of people say don't bother. Buy. Always wanted to drive one but never got the chance. 😞 I know exactly which fans you mean. Good option. @D.FYLAKTOS Did the heat wave hit you too? I think you need 1.6 rad with custom side-by-side double fan setup.

Do you have any experience with Bosh FR6DC+ ?

Exactly. 15100-85501 and HEP02A output pressure below 1BAR. Before buying, I made sure that, they won't overflow the carb. Pressure info is easy to find but other details like noise & vibration level are harder to find.

Just found this: in here: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/iridium-spark-plug-resistance.165965/ I don't know if it's true. If so, I don't know if Felly's ECU do this type of measurement.

I was like this > When I discovered the root cause. I hope this topic serves well for anyone who needs this kind of modification. I couldn't find detailed info about these two particular fuel pump models. So I had to try them myself. If anyone digs this in the future and has some questions in their mind, just ask. If I'm still alive, even if I don't have this car or any car at all. I will still try to answer.

WOW! That looks like a golden find! It hope it serves you well. You might not believe me but your car can contribute to your general health. Both mentally and physically. Doctors always give this advice: use your motor functions, use your senses, think, solve problems and you will feel young. This will help you stay sharp. As for the scanner, they say OBDeleven works for Felicia. Please also check: @D.FYLAKTOS is very experienced with scanners, custom gauges & TC-6 trip computers. He can give you "been there, done that" kind of advice.

I have very little experience with spark plugs but it looks like carbon fouling. Are those plugs resistor or non-resistor type? Maybe that was something with their internal resistance.

So, you say "Don't hack it!" 😃

I've been following your previous topic. May I ask, what was the problem with your previous engine? Just curious. Kind regards and best wishes.

I've been here since last year. There are only a few regulars in the Favorit/Felicia section. Some of the members here had some complications lately with their cars. Maybe they lost some of their spirit or they are just busy. I think sometimes it's easier to do complete swap. How are the regulations in Portugal for engine swaps? Also how are the prices for used car parts or donor cars? You need to get complete engine with its electronic parts too. So you don't need to deal with immobilizer issues. You have options like 1.4 16V 100HP and 1.6 16V GTI 125HP. Please check this topic. Very informative.

I'm residing on top of a hill. Nothing like your environment but I have to go down and up every day. I have a full set of new (close to 1 year old) front discs, front pads, rear drums and rear pads. After only using them for a month or two, the fronts have started squealing. It's annoying. So I got questions like is it normal for new brakes to start squealing this fast? Is there anything I can do to heal the squealing? Brake pad longevity on hills? Especially the rear because I can't check it without disturbing the rear bearing. And some other questions like that.

The balance! The keyword is balance. Both the fan blades and motor itself have to be balanced too like any other fast rotating part. One must consider this before attempting a repair/refurbish job. They have professional tools for this. An overlooked but very important detail.

Impressive. I'll need brake related help in the future. Now I know who to ask.

I want to add some personal observations and notes for the future mod attempts by fellow Škodians. Both fuel pumps I've used here are sometimes referred as "low pressure universal fuel pump". That means car enthusiasts around the world found them useful for general use. First one is from Bedford Rascal: With OEM code 15100-85501. Advantages: - Noise and vibration level is average. - It has its own vibration stabilizers. - Suction ability is better than HEP02A but I didn't measure exact height. Disadvantages: - It has to be placed straight up. Its not so ordinary shape could give you some trouble when installing in custom projects. - Fuel input and output parts are made from plastic. You have to be very very careful with your assembly. Input and output fuel hoses must NOT put any mechanical stress on the pump. Check 15:10 It has some kind of contact breaker mechanism inside: I've also saw one in a Japanese source with electronic circuit inside. Second pump is a HEP02A Advantages: - Very sturdy. All metal body. - Easy to mount. Orientation doesn't matter. - You can use it for diesel projects. Originally it's a diesel pump. - Inline free flow compatible. (Not tested myself. I read it from some other place) They use it in large excavators as priming pump for the main pump. If you are familiar with old diesel machinery you know its purpose. Disadvantages: - It's an excavator fuel pump! Very loud. I can hear it from back of the car even the engine is running. It's makes you feel like you are driving a Citroën 2CV Sahara. At least, when it gets warm, it gets quiet and bearable. - You have to take vibration stabilizers into account and design the mounting accordingly or you will feel it working on your bottom. - Suction capacity is low. I measured 40cm height maximum. I don't know which one is more durable in everyday use. I used my HEP02A last winter as a starting helper in cold winter days. It worked every time even in sub -15ºC conditions.

Long term review & update. Last fuel pump mod resulted inconsistent work, or at least made me thought so. It was cutting fuel supply like the tank was empty. Sometimes stopped working too. I thought it was overheated and damaged. Like I had mentioned before, another alternate was a HEP02A. I tried another installation with a HEP02A. I made this bridge and HEP02A was on here. Fuel line was connected to it. Result was same. Inconsistent work. Sometimes pumped, sometimes not. This was fuel pump mod V.2. Very short lived. Here is V.3. I think this is the best place. Pump will stay cool. Another important detail is; fuel pumps' suction capacity is very limited. You better keep it close to the fuel tank. Success? NO! Inconsistent work again. But this time I detected a pattern. Fuel supply stops when tank level reaches the same level. I didn't know there was a rubber hose inside of the fuel tank. After 30 years of fuel contact made the middle rubber part decay. I replaced it and now everything works perfect.

So you are driving your Felly on roads like this? Wow! Beautiful! But unforgiving for cars. No wonder why you want better brakes, better cooling. Your car must be in top condition. No doubt that you are a good driver and owner. You also ride a motorcycle on these roads too? That requires even higher skill level.

I checked AX but couldn't find any. I think the package will surpass international air mail standards. I'll wait for now. At the first failure sign, I'll buy a new one. Whatever I can find at that date. Well... there is a little bit different story here. I bought mine for €2300. That translates into a year's worth of full time job without spending for a sandwich. (Provided if you find that job and they agreed to pay you the whole minimum wage) Felicia's are even more valuable. For example, @D.FYLAKTOS 's Felicia is a unicorn. Power steering + A/C on a reliable and economic 1.3 Škoda MPI engine? Once I've asked one of the main Škoda parts stores about A/C on 1.3. Just out of curiosity. They gave me a blank look and then, they were like "WTF??? What are you talking about? There is no A/C on 1.3 models!" That car could easily make €6000++ So, even if I had money to pay for ALL the repairs, I wouldn't do it. Because mechanics here don't always fix properly. Sometimes they fix something while breaking other things or even do improper repairs at all. I had to do the carburetor cleaning/rebuilding myself. I've been told that, not many real carburetor experts were left. People say, don't go to carburetor builders. That could be a total waste for money or even they could make it worse. I've even heard that, so told carburetor builders could dip the whole carburetor in paint thinner overnight and claim they cleaned/rebuilt it and ask for $$$ for their marvelous job. So would you leave your -one year's work worth- of car's one of the most important parts to someone for dipping in paint thinner? So they could rip you like plucking a chicken? 🐔 No? Just download @RicardoM 's PDF package for Pierburg 2E3 carburetors and educate yourself. That's what I did. As soon as I saw the videos you've posted, I got the whole picture. They broke the internal parts when trying to open the fan motor. Fans are not designed for repairs. Not even one example for our fan motors means they are even worse. Even so, I thought, maybe I can try? I postponed the idea for now. But if I open it in the future, I'll post the results.

Yes. The shipping rates will be high. I haven't checked small stores yet. ... and MOT time is coming. 🙄

Interesting info. All I've kept reading on different forums so far that, no-grill design was a fault for Favorits. Who has a wind tunnel at their backyard anyway?

Yeah, I needed someone who did this before on 165959455 series fans. There are a LOT of cars using this fan. Golf I,II Audi 80s, Caddy, Felicia etc. Unfortunately there is not any instruction or video about these fans. You know, I trust your expertise and judgement. I'll leave it for now. Thank you.

Thanks for the instruction videos!

Since I can't edit my post above, I want to add that, I can't find any alternate fan from Bosch or any other reputable brand in my area. There are brands like Vika Ruby etc. (Importing is not an option at this time.) After some research, I'm %90 sure, the fan currently I have is from a Felicia. This one has only one speed and possibly 70W. That means it's over 20 years old. 😱 I think I can open it by prying the metal edges folded over the back plate. - Should I try to open the fan and replace the carbon brushes? OR - Buy a new one. Which one is more reliable? 20+ years old Bosch fan with new carbon brushes or a new aftermarket fan? (Vika) (New fans are 120/200W two speed models. I'll use only the slow speed.)