R_Blue

Couldn't find someone with a stock MPI engine yet. Almost everyone convert their fuel system to LPG. The LPG system for MPI engines is different than what I have in my car. It's a "smart" system. It starts with gasoline and automatically switches to LPG when engine temperature reaches 30ºC. One Felicia MPI owner claims, 5.5l gasoline on intercity roads. City consumption was 7lt. That was almost 10 years ago before he adopted a LPG system. Another user says, intercity consumption should be between 5 and 6lt of gasoline for a "normal" engine. City consumption and cold start times are sketchy because of the presence of the LPG system.

Now you have intermittent rear wiper? Cool. Nice info for all Felicia users. There is an empty relay socket in the fuse box of the >93 Fav. models but it's not wired. So, one must do a wiring work to be able to achieve what you did.

So, is that' why @Papez suggest a shorter gearbox? Or is that about mid ranges? Or maybe both?

Of course. I will. You are only interested in MPI, right? There are lots of carburetor Felicias here. I even saw mk2s. I have a carburetor too you know and I can get whatever rpms at whatever duration at startup. (I'm not implying that a carb. is better than MPI. It's not.) My current adjustment is like this: After cold start, engine idles between 500-800 rpm. It depends on electrical loads and/or oil condition. (New oil means thick oil.) While the engine warms up, it will work more freely. On the last step of the fast idle mechanism, it reaches 1100 rpm. That happens around 55ºC. (Fast idle duration depends on how fast the car reaches 55ºC) After passing the fast idle stage at this moment, idle falls around 600-700 again. It gradually rises around 850-900 when engine temperature reaches 80ºC. At winter, I rise the "no-electrical load idle" around 1000. Because, increased electrical load at winter, drops the idle. If it falls below 800rpm, alternator can't generate enough power and the rest of the lacking power comes from the battery and that means, the car won't crank next morning. 😞 Auto RPM adjustment is one of my favorite features from modern cars. Your problem is, Felicia ECU is stuck between being modern and old-school. Mostly because of the OBD1 port. If I were you, I would look upon the option of converting to a custom ECU system. I bet, even the most basic one will be better than Felicia's. Just think about it, all ECU related adjustments and a wide range of live info will be at your fingertips.

Like >220Km/h @ 5000rpm @5th ?

The"Mysterious"feliciahacker You helped me a lot. Please inform me if you need anything that I could provide help.

Good point. I could use the same LPG system on a SPI system. A throttle body, which has a single flap may be more compatible. Even just installing a throttle body instead of a carb. could ease the LPG settings but I need a complete SPI system from a donor car to be able run it on gasoline. The law mandates dual-fuel cars to be able to run on both fuels. I checked the parts stores for Felicia SPI system parts, especially the throttle body. It is not available but new carburetors are available. I also saw some SPI felicias converted to carb. I think people revert their SPI systems back to carb. when there is an expensive problem happens to their fuel system. Of course that is a cost related choice. So lack of SPI parts makes it harder for a SPI conversion. Even from donor car, all parts will be very expensive and their reliability will stay as a question mark. The car already had LPG installed when I bought it.

Why??? What happened?

A dream engine for any Felicia owner. Felicia Fun is already a rare car. With this engine upgrade, yours might become the only one in all Portugal. Next summer, have FUN! 😉

Very important info. Many thanks.

But I'm a skillful carburetor programmer too. The real challenge is using LPG with a Pierburg 2E3. Which has an auto choke mechanism and engine load dependent second barrel operation. Also there is the distributor itself with centrifugal advance mechanism coupled with vacuum advance unit*. (*= On stock engines. I have R12 distributor) All of those advance mechanisms are tuned for gasoline. LPG advance curve is different. - Issues with cold start. (<10ºC) - Issues about switching between fuels. - Issues about setting up the static advance and advance curve. (Since I have R12 distributor, probe light doesn't work for me! It shows an awkward position on degree marks near the pulley. Because, original Favorit ignition circuit has its own delay!) - Advance curve and fuel ratio is connected with each other but I can't put at least one variable to a constant with LPG. - Issues about keeping the carburetor clean. (LPG setup is pouring a black sticky muck right into the carb.) Think about this; second choke on the carburetor opens at a certain vacuum level from the engine but its movement is blocked when gas pedal is not pressed at a certain degree. Because of this, you can't adjust LPG when the car is stationary. It's useless. (You can over-rev the engine with second choke completely closed, when the car is stationary) A carburetor is designed to keep the A/F ratio constant under variable airflow but the vaporizer of the LPG unit solely depends on vacuum. It increases LPG output based on vacuum. Long story short, it's a nightmare to properly setup and use LPG on a Pierburg 2E3 mounted engine. This deserves its own topic. I have some home brew solutions to address some of the listed issues above but they won't just cut it all. The car can keep 120Km/h on flats with acceptable LPG consumption in the city but I can hear the engine pinking when climbing hills on second gear with revs more than ~3000-3500 (depends on air temperature and engine temperature). Also, there is evident power loss between LPG and gasoline. You can tell the difference easily. On injection cars, when their LPG installment and ECU programed correctly, there is almost no power related difference between LPG and gasoline. After some deep dig from past-time Czech sources, the real masters of using Pierburg 2E3 with LPG is no one than Czechs themselves! They are mentioning modifying the second choke operation. Remote controlling some of the parts in the carburetor for LPG use. On top that, they built a system with a SMV (Stepper motor valve) as a LPG power valve, receiving signals from a lambda sensor. They did this in the early 2000s. 😱 WOW! Just WOW! If you want to up your game, you need better tools. I think, monitoring a lambda sensor value is a good start to see whats going on. (I mean getting some meaningful numbers) Thanks! Many thanks! That's really what I've needed! A live world experience. Using the original secondary pipe will save me a lot $$. Now I'll have to decide whether to obtain a wide band Bosh LSU 4.9 or a more basic lambda sensor. Expensive sensors will setback the project for sure. But I'll post info whenever I can achieve some progress.

Thanks for the detailed info. Especially about the exhaust. Like water splash? So you mean this one has no use for me: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001324663483.html This kit has a very common lambda sensor. (Peugeot 206, 307 etc. Still millions of copies on the roads. I could find a replacement easily)

Thanks!

I think, a product carrying "Made In Germany" on it has its engineering made proper. I don't think it will cause you any trouble in the future. Good work by the way. Keep it up. Here is what I've installed. (The sticker on the product box) I don't think you can find this in UK tough. A more universal part locally sold is: Monroe 23821 Listed with OEM number: 115395001 Seller's compatibility list: (Meaning it will "fit" but doesn't mean absolutely proper!) Skoda Favorit L (89-92) Skoda Favorit LX (93-95) Skoda Favorit Pick-Up L (92-93) Skoda Favorit Pick-Up LX (93-95) Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPI Skoda Felicia 1.6 MPI ( AEE ) Skoda Felicia Combi Skoda Felicia LX - GLX (95-97) Skoda Felicia LX - GLX (98-01) Facelift Skoda Forman L (89-92) Skoda Forman LX (93-95) I worked a lot on the car, and I've encountered many "replacement parts not fitting" type of problems. For example, door handles. I've modified them a little bit to fit to their place. Some parts for our cars are not available any more. I'm also collecting knowledge to fit parts from other cars' parts. Feel free to PM me for any question if you don't like posting a topic about it. (I won't ask anything for return) Only thing I don't have a slightest idea could be SPI fuel system on your Favorit because I have a carb. system.

I was also thinking about adding this function too. There is an unused seat belt warning light in my dashboard. Do you know the OEM number for the parts you used or at least which model year for SEAT Ibiza?

I think installing a lambda sensor and having an onboard gauge for reading it and plus, an onboard vacuum meter combination would help me adjust LPG and advance curve better. I'm currently calculating total costs & feasibility of such a modification to the exhaust pipes. - Is this a suitable place for drilling and welding a lambda sensor nut? Of course the sensor will be above that part. (Marked with red circle. ) - I know a lambda sensor needs to be hot to get accurate readings. Felicia MPI has shorter exhaust down-pipe and the sensor is much closer to the engine. Does the place I chose will be hot enough? Felicia lambda sensor location. - Injection Felicia or Favorits have this style of exhaust down pipes. Two main pipes exiting from exhaust manifold is connected together very shortly compared to pre-cat carb. Favorits. Is this exhaust style more restricting? Will I lose some HPs if I adopt this down pipe to be able to install a lambda sensor correctly? (A straight pipe will be placed to compensate the lost distance under the car) Post regulated-CAT and pre-CAT down pipes comparison. - Last question. Does using a cheaper narrow-band sensor will give me what I need?

I've used Valeo discs + some local brand pads. First month everything was smooth. After that, they started squealing. I blame the pads however. I don't think drilled/slotted discs are a must have for light weight/low power road cars. Use solid discs with a peace of mind. If you want a real brake upgrade, it's a good time for you to consider Ford Sierra caliper + larger diameter disc upgrade. This upgrade requires 14" or larger rims. You already have this. I understand what you mean. Even the product picture is wrong.

I think you are looking for this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334250234619 I've found the OEM number as 6U0253091 C / CX / B I don't know what the following letters mean. Some local sources display this item as Caddy 9K compatible. I'm not 100% sure about that.

I've measured the strut's thickness from just above knuckle. Hope this provides any help for you. It's 45mm. Original Code: 115495001 VW Code: 6U6413031B Example product: Monroe G16130

I watched all from start to the end. Good find. He said the car weighted 950KG. Isn't that heavy for a race setup Felly? Maybe the info he provided is wrong. Maybe the translation is wrong. Check 03:26. How much your own Felly weights?

Thanks for all the answers. First option is the winner.

I'm asking about your general opinion first. What do you think about factory installed side strips? Do you like them? Does the car look better with these or not? Does the car really need them? Secondly, I'm asking about how do they look on Forman? First and most common option: Short side strips aligned to bumper line. From personal experience, they are not very protective because they are not installed on the apex point of the panels. Second option: On some models, (GLX maybe?) longer side strips are installed. These are also installed on apex point. Third option: No side strips. Fourth option: Painted or vinyl side strips as an aesthetic replacement for physical ones. I couldn't find a picture for this but I saw cars on the street like this. Which one would you prefer?

Clever method. You are like a living classic Škoda encyclopedia. Also when you post, you always land it right on spot like Thor's hammer.

You have keen eyes. That Forman looks high because it has modified strut mountings. They did on purpose. That car was on sale when I saw its pictures. They claimed it was a rebuild. The asking price at time was about €6250. I have more pictures of that car. I collect interesting Fav./Fel. pictures. Beautiful rebuilds, interesting ideas, weird modifications etc. I can start a new topic and post these pictures on a regular basis. (If anyone would be interested) Nothing beats the experience from real life. Thanks for sharing.

Here is an example from me. Right rear mudflap was missing when I bought the car. Forman has a long rear bumper and the bottom side of the bumper is arched to the middle of the car. That creates a suitable place to gather snow slush at winter. That winter, before I installed a new mudflap set, the car had collected 5-10kg worth of frozen snow slush inside that side of the bumper. I couldn't remove that solid body for days. While the other side, which had a mudflap, had collected none. Sorry but I couldn't resist to post this picture: Here are some true mudflaps. You can't risk masking the sponsors' vinyls with mud right?