R_Blue

Back in business. Ladies and gentlemen, we have two conflicting opinions. Bracing and old Forman/Felly. Do it or not? Let's sauce it up a little bit. All chassis twists, flex, etc. are pre-calculated by engineers before the cars' production right? There are expected places of stress on chassis. I think those places are strengthened too. So if you install a strut brace, will it impose a dramatic change to where the chassis flexes?

Shouldn't I worry about metal dust inside? Great ideas by the way. I'm glad you are active again. I missed your posts.

No, it's a metal cap. Like these: But very small diameter. Only 8mm.

Are your strut tops different than this?

I've found something about it. It's number 32. It's an 8mm plug. Like a freeze plug but installed on an oil channel. N90796301 Now, how would you replace an 8mm plug on an oil channel without removing the engine?

Loud and clear sir. I like the way you think. That's wise.

WoW... You get fancy print-outs (with colors!) after wheel alignment jobs? Yeah it's good. The computers of wheel alignment shops have all the values prerecorded for almost all cars. When they install their probes to the wheels, they see the the upper and lower limits on the screen. I've found these values for Felly. (Source: jltechno) Alignment Specs Parameter MIN spec Standard spec MAX spec Front Total Toe 0 0.17 FL Toe 0 0.09 FR Toe 0 0.09 FL Camber -1 0 FR Camber -1 0 Rear Total Toe -0.02 0.23 RL Toe -0.01 0.12 RR Toe -0.01 0.12 RL Camber -1.9 -0.9 RR Camber -1.9 -0.9 Left Caster 0.58 2.08 Right Caster 0.58 2.08 Left SAI 0 0 Right SAI 0 0 Wheelbase N/Amm Front Track N/Amm Rear Track N/Amm

Could you explain please? Correct me if I'm wrong but some Felicias have it from factory. Right?

Forman is heavier too. So what do you think about ARB + Strut Brace for a Forman?

Your reasoning is well. I also think that was the cause. There were more parts that have been needed to be changed, like dampers. I added a list on my previous post.

Bad news... I suspected from another source of leak and finally found this: Now please if anyone knows, what is this mysterious recess? This picture above is from my engine. I used a mirror to take the picture so it's inverted. The mysterious recess is well hidden from eyesight. It's just below the bolt I've asked before. I couldn't notice this before because it was covered in oily muck. It's angled downwards. I'm afraid it might be some kind of over pressure relief plug. If that's so, I think it's impossible to fix it without removing the engine? I can't imagine removing the engine because of this.

Thanks for your explanatory post. Does this setup impose more lateral stress on the tires? Better handling means a safer ride too. Good upgrade.

@KenONeill Thanks for your time and valuable input. Also, for the record. I used a set of (2x) new No: 2, 4 (fabricated), 5, 7, 8, 10, 11 (fashioned from standard washers), 13, 14, 18, 20, 21 No:15 is missing. It's near impossible to find. I even searched VW shops for Golf2 substitutes and had no chance. No:12 on both sides were in an unbelievably good shape after 30yrs. of use. Seems available on the market but not common. I used old ones. Also a good seller recommended to use old and original springs unless there is an utmost need. He told me that, aftermarket copies had a tendency to lose their stiffness and form in a short time.

Yes. They are double hooked. I did just like your description. Equal pressure. Turn each bolt one by one. Do you mean just enough to have no pressure on the spring plates at both ends? I also explored DIY route and made calculations on required materials. Conclusion is; if you don't have thick and long bolts (something like M16x250-300mm) scavenged from somewhere, laying around etc. DIY is not logical way. Not big gains compared to a ready to use set. Also, fabricating the hooks require careful workmanship. Your life depends on it.

Do you remember the difference before and after? How did it feel?

To clarify for future readers, you don't need a spring compressor tool for this job under normal circumstances. When installing new dampers, I didn't need compressors. Threaded end of the shaft is long enough to use its own nut to compress the spring. Here are some more explicit pictures to expose the nature of the concluded work. Just after pulling it out. I couldn't cut this without a spring compressor. Also, Bottom mounting nut (no:20) on one side has stripped. It also took the socket of the wrench along with it. I had to cut it too. No:11 was missing one one side. No:4 was missing on both sides. This is a tube shaped spacer to fit inside the rubber bushing. I had to find a metal pipe to cut pieces like that. Just a reminder for future readers; spring compressors are dangerous. There are horror stories everywhere on the net. Beware.

Thanks! Good find. That really saved the day. I decided to buy a spring compressor tool after seeing your post. Later, I've found out that, a spring compressor might not be needed BUT not everything goes smooth when working with old cars. Right? I removed both suspension assembly. On the other side they put washers here. They corroded so badly, I couldn't make them released. They were literally welded here with rust. I had to cut the damper's shaft to be able release the spring. If I hadn't bought it, the work would be interrupted at this point. Some of the parts after disassembly. Condition of the springs. Re-assembled.

Thanks for the quick reply. That means, I'll also need a spring compressor tool. Right?

Could you tell me please, what happened here? - Rear right wheel is bouncing on bumps like a basketball, accompanied with a rattling noise. - When I press down the back of the car, the shock shaft pictured above is moving up and down freely. - I can easily rotate the shock shaft. The shock shaft seems to be completely displaced.

Instead of stocking and selling model specific head gaskets, makers and/or sellers prefer one size fits all style head gaskets. Same gasket fits, Fav., Fel. and Fabia Mk.1 MPI. Fabia MK.1 1.4 MPI, the last iteration of the original Škoda engine has a slightly different block. (Reinforced?)

Do the parts: 115052010 and 113052060 fit to the Felicia block?

Yes. That's right. A new member with a cool style! I hope they stay and become a regular.

Well done.

Looks like "tailored to fit" wins over "one size for all". Thinking about HGs made from asbestos right now... ☠️

I've been thinking this for a while. Looks like, there was a warning LED for temp. on the dashboard of early Favorits. Using a dedicated LED like this as a trigger, one can easily add a buzzer too. That'd be a perfect warning system. New style dashboards (which I have) are missing this LED. Also, there isn't such a warning LED on Fellys too. Too bad. It's a stepback. Of course, with already what we have, one can tinker and add a buzzer to the temp. gauge circuit. Maybe using a small Mosfet, zener, and some resistors. But there is a more simple and straightforward solution without disturbing sensitive electronics. Do you still have this? (Asking because: Aftermarket temp gauges can easily be modded to have a warning buzzer or flashing light. One already have these functions can be found too.) Did you disable the temp display after this? If your answer is "yes" to all questions above, please look at this: Remember my recent topic? Asking about this plug? If you have this plug on Felicia block too, do you think what I'm thinking now? It's a coolant plug! According to 7zap data: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/felicia/fel/2000-101/1/103-103000/#33 Its threads are M14x1.5 That's the same thread size what I've ordered from AX as a temp. sensor. (My replacement sensor for temp gauge mod above) In theory, you can screw this sensor above in the place of that coolant plug! You won't disturb your car's electronics and coolant hoses this way. What do you think about this now? Also, If I were you, I would make the 1.6 radiator conversion and add a double fan setup for it. Maybe something like this: Make the second fan to have its own circuit and fuse, also add a manual emergency switch hidden but close for you to easy access when needed. That's what I think as an ultimate cooling mod, worthy for your Trusty.