ApertureS

‘Reset professionally’? Opposed to? ’codes checked’? What were the codes before clearing? What codes returned? if you were 25 years in the motor trade then surely you’d know that to start an accurate diagnosis you need all the data present - including fault codes. No one is suggesting fitting a new anything? In fact we are doing the opposite and trying to help. No one is slapping anyone’s wrist either but consider this to be my last bit of advice with your approach to getting help.

The motor is available as a separate part. send me your vin number and I’ll look it up this evening for you.

Fault codes will need to be scanned first of all - chances are a fault is apparent for latch or strut hall sensors.

How did he know what resistance the resistors need to be? and I wouldn’t really be guessing there should or shouldn’t be a second resistor. Really you need to compare to a known good setup.

A lot of car modules receive constant 12v supplies nowadays and are always on. They are woken up by canbus and other methods when required like the ignition or engine being turned on.

Before jumping the gun, you need to find out why the EML is on specifically and not a one of a million options guess There is no drain on the adblue tank but it can be electronically pumped out, also adblue has a shelf life of between 6-24 months depending on storage temperature.

Yes as any kind of engine fault will stop the cruise and stop start working generally.

That fuse is for the heated windscreen, and as you dont have the relay or relay holder either, id say you arent missing any fuse from there. There is also no male terminals protruding upwards in either of the locations on that socket.

Have you got a registration as different fuses are powering different things depending on specific engine. Edit: Ive taken the reg to be your user name - Octaiva 2015 VRS 2.0 TSI CHHB engine. Please post an exact list of fault codes, and also which of the 3 fuse boxes fuse 9 we are talking about Edit again: Interior fuse box SC9 is 15A and does all-wheel-drive control unit which yours isnt, so im going to assume engine bay fuse SB9 10A which is as follows; SB9 - 10A - engine electronics (for engine code CJSA, CJSB, CHHA, CHHB) Fuse SB9 feeds the following components on a rt/gn wire (changes colour in engine harness to either rt, rt/ws or ws/gn) - N80 charcoal solenoid, N205 Intake camshaft control valve, N318 Exhaust camshaft control valve, V51 Coolant circulation pump I would eliminate the easy ones, disconnect the charcoal and 2 camshaft solenoids and leaves the water pump, chances are you have water leaking out the pump, up the wiring and causing a short circuit.

Spot on. Although with rear independent suspension, expect the alignment shop to land you with a big bill when the steel bolts are seized in the aluminium bushes 😞 The rear can be adjusted on toe, castor and camber by movement of the complete subframe and 2 eccentric bolts. The front can be adjusted on toe and camber by a tie rod and movement of the complete subframe. (Rear torsion bars cant be adjusted at all except for a very minimal amount of rotation to get the axle running straight ahead to prevent crabbing.)

So today i had a spare few hours so i started on the passenger door. The plan is to run all the wires in all 4 doors and the tailgate, that means when it comes to doing the big strip out, ill of saved a massive amount of time. What was carried out? Well, first is to strip out the front door so door card off, speaker out, all covers off and remove the complete wiring assembly as one. Now the wiring was out i had to strip all the insulation from between the 2 gasket sections to allow the new wires to be ran. The wires then all need to be moved from the 27 pin to the 25 pin, and add the LVDS cable. This took a long time, and 4 of the wires needed their pins changing to MCON 1.2 pins from the previous MCP 2.8mm pins. As you can see, the actual housing for the connector is different as well, this is to allow the LVDS cable more room, Part numbers in the pictures Note: The post above with the excel spreadsheet of wiring covered everything, except 2 things of note - the wiring sometimes changes colour across the plug, and also the original 27 pin connector had a red/white wire on pin 12 that I simply moved to pin 12 of the new plug that i didnt account for in my post above. Once this was done, the loom was refitted to the car and then the same process was repeated on the car side, this was a bit more of a squeeze working in the passenger footwell. All moved from the black connector to the new white connector, the LVDS cable which is 4m long was then coiled up inside the car behind the trim and all was boxed back up. To add to the OE feel and to also reduce vibrations in the door, I didnt want the LVDS connector to rattle around where it connects to the mirror and the OE solution to this is a foam sock that goes over the connector to prevent vibration and noise. This cant be purchased from Skoda so i had to make my own. 4mm Open cell foam sheet is the solution, rolled up into a tube and glued together with superglue to make my own socks. These were then slid over the connector and cable tied in place, exactly how the rest of the door connectors are done. The other option for securing the LVDS connector is this holder 7P6937545 which looks like this: Or 1K8937545 could be used (but that only fits a elongated hole that isnt common). But this also needs one of the mounting method (6mm hole or sheet metal edge) holders to connect the 2 together. 8Z0971848F is the 6mm hole mount, 3B0919136A is the sheet metal edge mount. Then it started to rain so i had to quickly box it all up and forgot to get photos of the inside of the door and plus this side alone took me around 4/5 hours. When I do the drivers side and boot lid ill get the extra photos.

Don’t go using the one click functions - not only are they not applicable to all cars, but you don’t actually know what they are changing or messing with. If you have the virtual cockpit I don’t believe needle sweep is an option

You have to take it to someone with an authorised GEKO account and ODIS diagnostic software - a dealership or specialist will be able to assist.

Could you be more specific about what seal; -The one on the aperture of the door frame -The one on the outermost face of the door that houses the window and pieces of external trim -The one that runs around the edge of the door about half way between exterior and interior. I suspect the last one, if so, this is glued on and to attach the new one you should use adhesion primer. It sounds more like they have used whatever was lying around rather than getting the actual correct seal.

How’s the service history for the car? What fault are you experiencing? How was the chain stretch checked and what were the findings? What engine are we talking about? Whats the car mileage?

Spot on, side assist/blind spot assist uses a radar mounted on the rear 2 corners behind the bumper, very similar to the front assist radar. No cameras for this.

It will need looking at as to what caused the misalignment, the brackets can rust and brake, an impact could cause it, reason work on the suspension and some other things. if none of these are found to be the cause then it needs an ADAS radar calibration. It needs a diagnostic tool, some very accurate tape measures and a very flat surface to be done DIY.

Have you checked the wiring or bulb is present for the rear fog? and rain close requires a different internal RLS sensor.

The kW output that is displayed is just a ‘computer generated’ value and isn’t a true representation of the actual engine power. Modifying the top end of this would have no true effects on the engine at all. and even with a higher maximum on the instrument cluster, the gauge would never meet it as it won’t have the engine believe it’s above the factory kW output.

Front assist is done by a front radar located in the front upper/lower grill. Nothing at all to do with the lane/high beam camera you are referring to I assume. The interior mirror has no camera in it at all, the 2 options for camera that control lane assist are the 55 camera located in the back of the rear view mirror mount (although most cars wont have this), or the A5 camera above the rear view mirror area which is identifiable by its triangular shape on the windscreen upper area.

New mirror units arrived. All seem good and legit! No idea how I managed to find some so 'cheap'. For anyone wondering or looking to do it themselves, the mirror units with heated, blind spot, dimming and cameras is 3V2857507F and 3V2857508F. The next part is, the blind spot connector wiring is short on facelift as the FL mirror housing contains the blind spot light as pictured here Now I didnt want to buy new LED blind spot lights and new mirror glass without the inbuilt light at £600 for the 4 bits, so im just going to extend the wiring on each mirror by 10cm or so to allow the pre facelift mirror glass to be used, As i didnt want to chop into the wires and add joins, ive purchased new terminals and connectors which are JAE MX19002P51 As soon as the correct colour wiring turns up in 0.5mm SQ then ill get these wires extended and then fit them onto the vehicle to fully complete the wing mirror part of the job. Next up is the door connectors themselves - these go from: 27 pin connectors which use 2x MCP 2.8mm terminals and 25x MCON 1,2mm terminals. To 25+4 pin connectors which use 2x MCP 2.8mm terminals, 23x MCON 1.2mm terminals and a 4pin HSD connector. As the pins dont match up like for like, ive made a excel sheet that matches my car wiring so i can swap the pins to the new connectors. Ill take photos of this up close in the next few weeks. Something worth noting - the new connectors with part number 3Q0972701 and 3Q0972702 - the aperture for terminals 1-4 are larger than the rest, this is to accommodate the larger 1.5mmSQ wiring for the speaker system (2 or 4 wires depending if canton or not).

I do love a good bit of mechanic bull****tery… what he is actually saying - he can’t work out exactly if it’s the injector or pipe leaking so he’s going to replace both - and he’s somewhat right, it’s really hard to tell which part the leak is coming from as it’s all covered in plastic If the pipe was blocked the pressure build up would be before the injector, it also can’t over pressure the injector as a restriction would drop pressure at the injector and the maximum pressure is maintained by the pump in the tank.

I’ve got a spare for sale in north London if you’re interested. brand new genuine wheel - never used

It’s in the boot, I caught it just before it fell off and got lost on a road somewhere. Wont be refitting permanently until the bumper gets painted

Some side by sides for you