ApertureS

What diagnostic tool are you using? what fault codes are stored in the whole car? is the engine spinning over but not firing? is it trying to start?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10170208-0001.pdf Will tell you what you need to know, G13 would be in the car. But most will top up with G12, G13, G12evo nowadays.

If you mean the one on the car body, then it simply pulls off, no need to remove trim. When you refit the new one just take note that there is a rubber lip that needs to be pulled over the top of all the trim/headliner

I’ve dropped you a private message

Give us more details or photos of your rear lights as not all are compatible with animations. then we should be able to help further

Simply pull the gloss black trim and the whole lot comes out as one.

Welcome to the forum. The boot handle is known for failure a lot. If you send me a photo of your boot handle, I keep them in stock so can send you one out for £20 posted, fully tested and working. regarding changing it, yes you have to remove the inside trim and push it out from the inside.

Of the top of my head I don’t sorry. But the way to tell is if you follow the wires. One will go to a plug, the other will go to a small box (3inch by 2inch roughly) which then has a plug going into it. the one with the additional box is the NOx sensor.

Used. I do have a genuine matrix also. When you say connectors, what do you mean? The end in the engine bay or the clamps for the pipes to the matrix.

Part number is 5Q2819857A. I might have a set for sale in the UK if its any good to you.

I mean, if he unstuck it and allowed you to drive off, and you had to hit the brakes hard and the piston didnt push back out, your uneven brakes could possibly cause you to spin out, first thing you would do is blame him. The other aspect is, its illegal to drive a car that you know is unroadworthy, whether the brakes are unstuck temporarily or not, its not road worthy. You are left with 2 options that cover both the safe and legal aspect: -Call a mobile mechanic -Get it recovered to a garage That is all assuming it is just a stuck piston and not something else like worn pads to the point the back plate is binding in the carrier, cracked disc, warped disc, debris stuck behind pad/carrier. There are lots of options for what it could be.

Or it is the max possible reading the sensor can get and it is well above that level, just something to consider.

Yes it can be done. All the MIB cables need rerouting to the glovebox area and antenna extensions too. The glovebox would also need replacing to house the new mib unit. After that youd need to have it correctly coded, component protection removed and setup correctly.

It uses everything. Engine braking, gear changes and regular brakes (with brake lights).

It will be the door latch itself has failed and needs replacing. a micro controller will have failed, it could possibly be repaired if you know what you’re doing and how to strip it down, but personally replacing the latch is easier

Are they registered to update the online service history? just make sure you get the print out at the end to confirm it’s been added don’t want to spoil your full service history

on the 2Q0 cameras that are fitted it is done with a swap code which is activated using odis. as far as I’m aware, dealers don’t sell any activation and no one has created a hack for swap codes on these units. it is not just a bit of coding like the earlier 3q0 cameras sadly

That I believe is the single xzn that is used to fit the bigger undertray? Other than that, I’ve got no idea where it would come from. And I’ve got no idea how it would float upwards to the top of the engine so it rules that out really. I think a part number for it may be N91009701 if someone wants to cross reference it (I can’t at work)

The DPF has nothing to do with NOx emissions. these are controlled by the SCR catalyst and adblue. As much as someone may be able to assist based on fault codes over the internet, it has no promises of fixing the fault. Paying for a diagnosis is not always a bad thing as they will fully look into the fault using all data and codes, tpi’s and their knowledge to find the fault. that being said; there are things you can do yourself that can be checked first. and the first thing I would be doing is checking the adblue injector nozzle is clean.

Personally I’d be doing the spare wheel area, depending on how you are setting it up it gives you space for all your other equipment including radio, siren amp and any other controllers. Wherever you put it, make sure you have a battery vent running outside the car and also a split charge system

If you are anywhere near London, feel free to get in touch as it’s something I offer

Nope, can’t be done sorry.

Just cause it’s the same platform doesn’t mean the leuchte channels are the same for all cars. Blindly following a video not related to the car you are working on won’t help sadly

They will most likely have more than 1 parts supplier so if you wanted to be 100% I’d double check with them and I think you’ll find they may not have used genuine parts for servicing

Did you take a full scan of the car including adaptations and coding before you began? If so, compare the two and revert the settings you’ve changed. What fault codes are stored across the car?