ApertureS

I wouldnt say stress free, coolant is not a consumable and the level should not drop. Chances are that you have a leak so keep an eye on the level at cold only over the next few days.

Yeah the rear axle can be adjusted in all directions either by moving arm locations or by adjusting eccentric bolts. How much load are you normally putting in the car? If it’s a lot, it has a tendency to push the wheels outwards which causes inside edge scrubbing

No no, just didn’t want it to be misconstrued as an amber light isn’t something that should be glossed over

The blotches on your rain light sensor are just due to them not replacing the silicone pad. but the quality of the screen and that bulge, unless anyone’s else is like it, that’s shocking glass….

Even with rubber inserts I’d be using red rubber grease on the slider inserts Any other grease can cause the rubber to swell and bind, causing brake sticking

Did you do it yourself in the end? If so, got any photos of the work?

Try Skoda-parts who deliver to the U.K. from czech or try lllparts

There is no red engine management light. Any light should be treated with urgency whatever colour it may be. the only red lights are oil pressure and brake fluid warning. But a yellow eml can be just as detrimental depending on what’s actually wrong

Yes they’ll fit on the runners. But wiring will probably not be the same and will require changing.

I believe the matrix lights use only 4 wires, power, ground, can high, can low. whereas the pre fl lights use individual turn on wires + a network with 4B

Plug and play.

What ohm rating of speakers did you fit? if they are not the correct resistance the canton amp will just shut down the channel as it thinks there is a fault

Erm…. Hate to break it to you, but yes this is the OE manufacturer of the oil… but for the DQ250 box, the 381 uses a different oil. Even on the link you sent it shows it’s suitable for G052182 which is DQ250, whereas DQ381 oil is G055529

Terrible suggestion…. Copper grease is an old school thing used when there was steel on steel contact. nowadays with alloys and such it causes galvanic corrosion and makes issues worse, not only that, dirt sticks to it and it slowly becomes a rubbing compound. Not a single manufacturer or brake pad supplier or maker recommends the stuff and it serves no purpose on brakes. If you wanted to use anything, an extremely light coat of ceramic grease on the pad tracks, not on the backing plate which is a pointless location. Ceramic grease insulates. But the main cause of squeaky brakes is either loose fitment in the carrier or build up on the disc/pad material that needs cleaning off

Surely the refurbishment company will fit the tyres - that will save you paying twice also. If not, make sure any tyre show you go to is using a contactless tyre machine, surprisingly costco near me is the go to as they have brand new contactless machines and I was very impressed. So possibly worth considering. also take photos before hand so you can point out any new damages.

If you have the same issues as in - your car boot will open from the interior button or from the key fob. but the external button on your boot lid does nothing then the external button has failed. I can have one shipped out to you Tuesday morning if you drop me a private message with a photo of your boot handle/button so I know which shape you have.

As @JR RS has mentioned, the upper grill doesn’t come out alone, the whole front bumper needs removing. regarding the horns, remember that one is a high and one is a low tone.

What is the part number of your 5F unit? Have you tried enabling MOST in coding first? Tried a different diagnostic tool? I had this issue with a different adaptation but odis worked, vcds did not. tried changing odis-e to developer mode or entering a security code? tried doing them one at a time and not all at once, or in a different order, or all at once? (This can make a big difference)

You probably have two arrows pointing each other rather than a continuous loop.

Your aliexpress link doesnt work. Regarding an OE look, maybe a dismantled rear dashcam fitted inside a 3d printed casing would work?

If you can get a photo of the plug we can direct you better. but chances are there is a small tab that needs releasing when the plug isn’t being pulled, then simply pull apart

If anyone is interested, I’m soon going to be selling the full spare wheel with the foam also.

That bubbling face of the parking sensor will be the exact cause of the fault. the parking sensors automatically enable below 15mph if something is really close. So this sensor being damaged will make the car think something is really close. replace the sensor

This is news to me, I never knew it was an option on the sportline seats, even new ones! even so, it’s a very rare option in the U.K.! and a fun fact - the seats don’t blow air out of the seat, they actually suction air through the pin holes in the front of the seat

No, Skoda won’t know what is on the car before the update When you say an update was done, who by? With what software? And did they use svm? have you tried the basics of bleeding the brakes and checking all pads and discs?