ApertureS

Not all batteries have serial numbers. If you are doing your adaptations after a battery reset just changing the serial number by 1 number, so 9999999 to 9999998 for example.

And what was the previous squib part number, why are you changing it

Your car heated seats are probably controlled by the bcm. Have you checked the fuse? Have you scanned for any fault codes?

That battery report is useless in all fairness. They have put it as a standard battery, not AGM or EFB meaning it will not read or spec the battery correctly - it’s also showing the Ah is 1026 of 760, that’s like saying your pint glass has 1.5 pints of beer in it. Although the starter may have been faulty, I would be getting that battery double checked again

If you are doing a full vehicle reset using ODIS you do not want to be doing this over remote connection. This is a long process and your car needs to be put on a voltage maintainer for the full period and the diagnostic tool should be wired to the vehicle. These obd11 one touch functions are awful in my opinion as they do all sorts, what are your actual problems?

I’ve just stuck mine on eBay which already has the coding 6410 but before you buy one pre coded: What is the current coding? what was the previous squib part number? Have you tried changing it one bit at a time? I’ve just stuck mine on eBay which already has the coding 6410 but before you buy one pre coded: What is the current coding? what was the previous squib part number? Have you tried changing it one bit at a time?

You need special tools to refill the gearbox afterwards, as well as the exact workshop manual to help set the finger positions and such. Regarding replacement, why replace instead of sending it away for a repair? Doing a mechatronic replacement is something that I would put above the classification of most handy men and just having tools. Not to mention it will require a diagnostic reset as well as adaptations running afterwards.

Well to start with.... you need to ask for the following; - Was the tech qualified to do the work and proof of the relevant training - Was the tech Geko registered - A FULL copy of the ODIS log that accompanied all the work that was carried out - Proof that they have sent a ticket to the mothership (skoda/vw) and had a response - The key back, take the back off and see if it has any VW stamp or part number to prove/disprove the aftermarket key After you have all that, report back. In the mean time - ive never heard of a aftermarket key corrupting the car, i cant say yes or no to this but the way the car works, if all keys are lost/decoded then i believe they can still recover them somehow. It sounds like they arent too sure what they are doing and have made a big **** up - if all immobiliser parts were bricked they would also be adding a instrument cluster to that list, so why havent they.

It’s hard to say without actually seeing the car but what has the garage diagnosed as the actual fault or broken parts? and what we’re your symptoms exactly? chances are you have backed up the turbo oil return which has caused oil to be forced passed the turbo seals. If so, you could get away with a new turbo cartridge and possible be done with it. worst case like others said, conrods and crankshaft have hit the oil hard enough to bend/break internal engine parts. before spending this much money on any car I would want a full in-depth engineer report showing exactly what’s broken and photos to back it up. that way you know the garage has actually done a proper diagnosis and not just ‘it’s fooked m8’

Are you able to see any radio station album art or contact profile pictures in the virtual cockpit? if not, this would point to a MOST cable fault.

Id be keeping a very close eye on them pipes, the slightest of bends or kinks in them can cause them to leak fairly badly. just something to monitor

The heater element may be turned off - go to climate menu, settings and tick supplementary heater. regarding the heater matrix they are roughly a 2 hour job on these cars and not that bad to do at all, as long as the pipes aren’t seized! make sure you also replace the seals with the correct kit that includes clamps

First thing is putting the car on a gas analyser to see if it is a faulty catalyst. Id also be checking emissions pre cat to see if they are out of wack. If they are you need to start looking at why the engine is running poorly and creating a incomplete burn.

Which temperature sensor? depending on your car and engine there can be up to roughly 10 across the whole car. and what is it saying about the temp sensor circuit? As it won’t be saying faulty sensor, it will give more specifics

I believe the U.K. spec has a fog light in the offside rear, and rather than create a separate light they just fitted the euro spec nearside rear. whereas Europe may have got their fog light nearside rear, but a specific non fog light offside

What gateway have you currently got in your car?

I have one sitting right here with me. if you wanted I can pop it in the post to you? drop me a pm if so

Any fault codes? a full vehicle adaptation map may help?

Did you fit a new gateway? If so, was it installed and updated with odis?

Thank you but not the part numbers. Someone done some bounce and rebound tests and recorded the results for different brands was trying to find them but I’ve lost them now

Yes many threads are already created on this if you wanted to search for them as its fairly common. The first thing to try is run the seat to each of its end stops in both directions including the back support, at each end stop, press the button again to send it a tiny bit further. See if this resolves the issue. If that doesnt fix it then a diagnostic tool is needed to check which travel direction is causing the fault and if it is 'not normed' or 'not standarized' as it makes a difference to the fix. As well as reading the end stop values on the min and max. At that point a person more experienced with these tools is required to know what they are looking at in the live data and what is correct/incorrect.

Newest part number revision for 1N7 which is Dynamic steering is 5Q2423056J and i can get that for £1990 Newest part number revision for 1N3 Speed related variable assist (servotronic) and 1N5 power steering mobility aid is 5Q2423055L and that is £1930 You now need to find out which of those 3 PR codes your car has, someone with fulltime access to erwin or you can pay yourself for a 1 hour slot for £8 to work it out. Either of these racks can be had second hand on ebay for less than £250 but they do need coding to the car and paramterising using ODIS

Hows the engine running? If the timing was so far out it was producing next to no manifold vaccum, but you would notice the engine running awfully first.

Used massively by the Irish Garda as response cars. Seen a few of them in England too. Head room is reduced and it’s a bit tighter in the cabin, but on the whole they are decent for an armoured vehicle.

Anyone got them stats for the aftermarket dcc shocks? I’ve found some reasonably priced monroe shocks and wanted to see if they are spec’ed the same as the oe dcc shock absorbers. we talking 40% of the price of OE!