ApertureS

Yes it’s dangerous to drive if you’ve allowed air into the hydraulic system. opening the bleed nipples without doing anything else is a terrible idea as all you’re going to do is allow air into the system. you now need to have your brake fluid flushed/changed to remove any air bubbles from the system. also, why did you have the brakes machined? Is it really that cheap and worth the hassle, the price of discs isn’t too bad so why not just replace them?

The post facelift cannot be switched off. Pre facelift can. Yours should be pre facelift and be able to turn it off through simple adaptation changes.

Where are you based out of interest? id be looking at getting someone else to look at it, someone that specialises in diesel even. if it’s misfiring then fine it has a fault and yes if you keep driving it you can cause even more damage.

Terrible choice. There is so many better options. And Carista is expensive for what it is. you’re asking for best which will always have to be odis the genuine tool - costing nearly £10,000. now if you mean best for diy use at a reasonable price, then the only 2 valid options are vcds or obdeleven wouldn’t go for anything else personally

You know there is a button on the mk3 (non FL) ACC stalk to switch between ACC and limiter?

Also, one of the cheapest places to get them INCLUDING their postage from CZ is skoda-parts.com - all genuine bits but a lot cheaper than in the uk. UK is about £25 each.

Cars are very different nowadays. The coolant system on the diesels doesn't have a thermostat anymore, the coolant flow is controlled by a shroud around the water pump. Most modern diesels are too efficient to get the coolant above operating temperature at idle or high idle. This means the shroud will never need to flow the coolant fully. Meaning the one time the car is going up a hill under a lot of load and the shroud finally opens to flow coolant as it gets hot, there isnt any there as the coolant was never bled so its airlocked. On top of that to allow the cabin to be warmed up you have electronic water pumps which need to be activated using diagnostic to bleed this part of the system. Then you dont have intercoolers anymore and instead you crosscoolers/charge coolers which use coolant and a heat exchanger. This low pressure coolant circuit also needs activating to bleed it through. Cars have changed massively and a lot of it is to do with efficiency and emissions, a lot of these 2 things are determined by heat so controlling the coolant is a huge factor.

Well based on their diagnosis that you have written and the fact they cant tell you exactly what is faulty and just suggest changing the seat belt pretensioner... I would be getting as far away from that workshop as possible and going to someone that is actually able to diagnose an airbag fault. It really is not a hard thing to diagnose -Fault scan to find fault code -Locate component relating to fault code -Locate all connectors along the path back to ECU Disconnect component and ecu. Check each end of the wire of the pair for continuity, resistance and shorts. Ideally load testing the circuit to do it properly. Any faults should arise from wiring. Make sure to do your checks using suitable pins as sometimes the terminating connectors themselves can be loose and cause the issue. Resistance across the wiring should be 0 or 0.1 ohm at most. Make sure the terminating connectors dont have dead short fail safes that will skew your readings. If the wiring faults, split it into sections and retest until the fault is located, if the wiring tests okay, dont test the component, just replace it. Theres also the other method of using the vehicles inbuilt measured values to constantly read resistance whilst checking parts of the circuit. Both work and should be used alongside eachother. TAKE NOTE THIS IS NOT ME TELLING ANYONE TO WORK ON THEIR OWN AIRBAG SYSTEM AND SHOULD LEAVE IT TO A QUALIFIED COMPETENT PERSON - THERE IS A LOT MORE INVOLVED THAN JUST THE BRIEF ABOVE AND YOU CAN KILL YOURSELF. Im simply stating, airbags are a very basic system for a decently qualified mechanic to work on, if they shockingly cant find a specific fault, bin them off.

Capacitive touch steering wheel meaning no need to nudge it every 12 seconds. You also get 2Q0 camera which is the big upgrade, full Travel Assist package as well as full led matrix headlamps.

My guess is new capacitive steering wheel and a lot of newer 2q0 modules like a5 camera, radar, bcm, gateway. if you’re fitting the new camera you need the new steering wheel for a lot of features

A timing belt I hope very much can be done by any decent mechanic yes. As long as they use decent parts and know what they are doing you shouldnt have any issues. I notice your bio mentions a 2013 superb, if this is the case you have a MK2 and not a MK3 - This would also mean youd have a different class of engine and advice may vary to what we have given you. If it is a 2013 superb you have you'll be looking for this part of the forum to receive the correct advice - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk-ii/

Feel free to keep driving and let us know 😂😂😂 we’ll call it an experiment but in all seriousness I can see that being the case. I agree the trip counter is almost spot on most of the time. compared to the rental corsa I had which dropped 50 miles on the trip counter for a 10 mile journey

Can’t view the videos either sadly. you got any more details on what was changed in detail and what modifications were made? also, cost?

It will have a belt then, 5 year service intervals on them. If you don’t have any proof it was done, get it done. Don’t risk it.

I believe the needle, much like the coolant one is not directly linked to the sensor. It will display what it thinks it should based on your mpg and such. I also have found my light to come on and next morning I’m 40 miles up and an extra bar on my cockpit. and I think it’s pretty standard that the first 1/4 of the gauge lasts 3/4 of the time on these cars. Takes forever to drop the first bar then it just falls away after that

Do not break it! You cant buy it on its own and only comes as a complete tailgate loom, if its broken, water is going to get inside. The trick is with a tiny needle or pick to release one of the catches from the inside of the clip then gently pull it out, place the rubber gaitor back over it and click it back in.

Hi there, it would be the same message as when there is actually a fault yes. Regarding clearing the error - The error is there for a reason and it is 99% never as simple as just clearing the code and the issue is fixed. Especially when this is a safety critical system it needs to be working 100%. Regarding what the fault may be, it could be anything from a faulty radar unit to a misaligned sensor due to an impact or pothole in which case it will need re-calibrating with a special piece of equipment.

If youre not under warranty id be taking it to a decent specialist. The system is relatively straight forward with only 2 components and 2 led's, not much to go wrong hardware wise.

Take note that you mean the 2.0 tdi as they also suffered with leaky water pumps. The 1.4/1.5/2.0 tsi are all not driven by any kind of cambelt/chain so dont need changing at the same rates. Also to anyone comparing the price of a 1.4/1.5 tsi cambelt change, just remember that if you have a hybrid then the price will be more as i believe to get to the end and lock the engine up a lot more bits need removing.

Chances are he will have the highline camera yes but theres a 99% chance its a 2Q0 camera - In which case its impossible to add traffic sign recognition as this requires a SWaP code hack which no one has been able to crack currently. If on the other hand its an older 3Q0 camera then it can be done easily enough.

Terraclean and Carbon Clean are the biggest con ever. Plain and simple as that. They are both the same thing under different names and the 'science' behind them is very nondescript. Basically it generally involves pumping hydrogen and oxygen into your intake (often a mist of water) and its supposed to dislodge carbon and such from intakes and valves and also unclog dpf filters. Ill tell you first hand, when ive taken an inlet manifold or head off to decoke the head/manifold, I use things a lot stronger than water including brake cleaner, parts washer, pressure washer, fire (if its a cast manifold) and even then it hardly touches the stuff, a screwdriver and mechanical movement is required to actually remove carbon. Regarding cleaning out a DPF, well, to remove the soot from a DPF it needs to burnt off at temperatures well above 500 degrees and this is achieved through additional fuel injection at certain combustion phases and a lot of electrickery to get the dpf up to these high temps - So tell me how adding water/hydrogen is going to bring temperatures up this high when water generally is used to cool things down. Along side this they generally say it will clean out your injectors - This normally involves one of 2 things, either they throw a bottle of injector 'cleaner' in the tank or they take the pump feed line off and put their own mixture of fuel and additive in. Either way, if your injectors are that blocked they need a clean, you have bigger problems. Of course there are small variations to each setup that the con men use but it basically boils down to the same as putting fuel saving magnets on your fuel lines - waste of money and time. So now ive generalized, Lets be more specific - What is the actual problem youre having with your car that Terraclean recommend their services for? If youre worried about carbon build up on your manifold, runners and valves then there are 2 things id recommend; First thing is youre looking for a decoking service, not a carbon clean. Second, once youve found someone that does it, they may offer a boroscope check involving a tiny camera into the manifold to check the rear of the valves and the inlet runners - If they deem the carbon to be a problem they will physically remove the inlet manifold and carry out a walnut blast involving firing crushed walnut shells at the carbon to completely break it down. EDIT: Something else id like to add if youre going based on reviews - Youll notice tonnes of 5* reviews, A lot of them saying amazing friendly person, done an amazing job and the light went out on my car straight away, a lot of reviews are like this. Ill explain why, of course theyre a friendly person as theyre taking your cash for doing nothing and regarding the eml light going out, if you have a lean mixture/egr flow/dpf code excetera, and they clear these codes after carrying out their 'work' you have something called "obd readiness monitor" this is also reset when the codes are cleared and how this works is, it will monitor all the emissions systems on the engine and only once its completed its reset checks will it actually start to monitor and throw fault codes for anything it finds with its monitoring - Now the crux, for the system to carry out its checks on all these individual systems each system can take from between 5 miles and 60 miles when driven in the right conditions. So youre all happy your car is back and the light is out, 60 miles later when the system reactivates you get the light come back on and by that point youve already said youre happy with their service. I think im done with my rant now

The only confirmed fault code is 28253 - Coolant Pump 3 P26F8 00 [040] - Stuck Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear There are multiple electric water pumps so youll have to confirm which one is number 3 and change that first. The only other one of importance is the low fuel pressure but there is no details on it and no confirmation so I cant tell if thats the cause of the EML

Maybe put the old capacitor back in? Just to make sure its not that causing the fault?

Get the old multimeter out, disconnect the motor and check for shorts between all the wires. You may have a dead short and its causing the arcing. Also, looks like a capacitor (the white cylinder) this could be there to take up any arcing or voltage dips, check the capacitor hasnt blown as well.

If you’re coming from a Peugeot 308 then the only way reliability can go is up Skoda is now owned by VW and in all ways it’s simply a VW or Audi with a different set of body panels and optional extras - what I mean to say is VW is a fairly reliable brand and the cars they make are of a high quality for their price tag. Also look at how many cabs use the superb, not just for its space and size but how reliable they are with the spaceship miles they all seem to be putting on them.