ApertureS

Works perfectly, no issues

It will be put down to any number of things. - impact damage may not always leave a mark - interior mirror hit too hard - pothole causing slight chassis twist - something hot touching the screen when frozen - possible already had a screen and a defect in the glass or fitting - rusty area causing pressure on the glass in the glue area not saying it is any of these but that’s all you’ll be told. Insurance will cover it no problem.

Mines pre update and no TMC either currently. that being said I normally use Waze and carplay anyway

To start with you wont get very far with just vcds, you NEED Odis to be able to remove component protection and possibly recode the immobiliser if you change the gateway module. As well as that youll need the correct dataset for the gatway module and have it swap coded. All of this gets quite involved when going outside the realms of factory retrofits. Regarding cruise control, you can buy a complete kit with a SVM code, once all parts are fitted the svm code is entered into odis, these creates the suitable datasets, carries out all the necessary coding and updates automatically. Take note there are 2 types of steering controls, Valeo and Kostal, they are not interchangeable.

As your car will have the 2Q0 camera, lane assistant can be added yes. The coding is fairly straight forward. You cannot enable Traffic Sign Recognition at all though.

The microswitch repair you are referring to is inside the car under the gear selector, not outside on the gearbox like you might be thinking. It wont be related sorry

Sorry but i completely disagree with you. Humidity reduction isnt a side effect, the system is perfectly designed to create a near frozen evaporator which yes cools the air but also freezes any moisture in the air and allows it to drain, there is a lot of particles that are small enough to get through a pollen filter such as smells and fumes, these too are collected by the partially frozen evaporator and are allowed to drain away in the collected moisture as a solution. The evaporator wouldn't and shouldn't clog with any debris, were not talking leaves and stuff but microscopic bacteria and objects, as the evaporator cycles between frozen and slightly warm the frozen layer is melted away and allowed to drain under the car. Anything to actually show the N280 behaves as you say because thats a new one on me?

Anyone familiar with the workings of an air con system both mechanically and electronically will tell you, leave the AC on 100% of the time. AC is not a air cooling function but a air conditioning function. It has many purposes, it drys the air, removes microscopic bits of anything in the air, cools the air, then it passes through the heater to heat it to the required temperature. These systems are made to be left on and not work at 100% all of the time, the valve is there to make the system only work when needed and at any percentage of power in between.

Who did the work...? Why were the calipers replaced? How was it bled?

If you want to drop me a message I’m in north London. It’s something I’d be willing to to offer and can guarantee it’s much cheaper than £800! or you can message my page on Facebook - Skoda Retrofits Another edit for you: I also offer the rear view camera OEM retrofitting - being local to you its something that can all be done in 1 go!

It would of always done this, it’s a normal feature of the virtual cockpit even from the pre facelift. Mine does the exact same thing

Sorry didn’t make it clear, the buttons are tactile yes I meant capacitive touch for the lane assist like the VWs where rather than having to nudge the wheel to keep lane assist going there are sensors inside the wheel to detect if you’re holding it. that being said about the buttons but personally when I had a new loaner with 3 miles on it I found the steering wheel buttons to be really flimsy and of poor quality, might of just been that car.

I might be wrong but these new steering wheels may use a different protocol for the steering controls. On top of that they are most likely capacitive touch so would be a good time to upgrade to a 2Q0 camera if you have lane assist. Just all things to consider. The difference in squib is for the additional heated connectors.

The passenger side is a 'dumb' system meaning no motor regulation via sensors and such. It it simple a powered switch and a motor. No module to control it either. That should narrow it down to either switchpack being faulty or the motor itself. How often is the seat getting moved?

A lot of people forget this! Including me. I ended up using a small flat screwdriver

Looks good for an AliExpress jobby. what’s the price difference in maxton vs this

What country we talking about here? do you get a few months or light then a few of complete darkness then?

Your location is showing as Sweden so i cant speak for legalities over there. In the UK damage like that would not be illegal - as long as there are no cords or bulges showing. Regarding safety - The rubber around the side wall and shoulder is much thicker for this very reason, but it also has reduced the rubber thickness in that area by a large amount, personally I would be getting it replaced. Regarding repair - This could be repaired BUT it is not a cost effective repair for a passenger car tyre, a repair like this falls into the EU standard of a major repair and will cost over £100 to repair - this is why its generally reserved for specialist tyres that cost a lot of money. So although technically repairable, it is not a minor repair such as a 6mm or 8mm mushroom plug from a puncture. Long and short of it: Replace the tyre

Looking at the picture above hes definitely in the correct canbus network, no fault codes to say otherwise either. Its down to placement of the antenna or connection to the wheel modules that is the issue.

VCDS instructions are fairly straight forward to follow and you will need VCDS for it, it can be done with other software like ODIS or VCP/OBD11 but you will have to work your own way of doing the correct coding as their might be some differences. Alternatively you can use the VCDS map in the Diagnostic section of the forum to find a local user with VCDS that will do it for you for a fee.

Turns out I was wrong on this, basically for the first 12 months they were on L&K then after that they didn’t bother really in the uk

Id disagree, the issue seems to be interference between the antenna and the receivers in each wheel. That would explain both fault codes. First thing you should be doing is checking that all 4 sensors are being picked up in live data and outputting a pressure. It could be either the sensors arent paired correctly or a faulty wheel sensor.

if the connection wasnt good you wouldnt be able to connect to the module and youd have a lot more fault codes to do with missing messages. Connecting the power to the fuse box isnt specific enough as you have different kinds of switched supplies - Constant, Ignition, Ignition but no crank, Individual - what fuse was it connected into?

I mean, youve gone about it in a interesting way. How much was the kit and the app? Ive never fitted a Jaeger kit so not sure how or what needs coding and if its compatible with the canbus network or if its a dumb setup. If you were fitting a genuine towbar module with dedicated wiring we could advise on the correct method for fitting and coding, but with an aftermarket setup youll only be able to go back to them as they know how their system works.

Youll have to be more specific, what car, have you retrofitted it, what did you fit, where did you get the parts, how long ago?