ApertureS

We arent gonna be able to help unless you tell us what you have changed when retrofitting the camera, what software was used and specifically what was adjusted

You can be upgraded to dynamic lane assist depending on what model you have. Also can have traffic jam assist too.

Or do what i did, sportline looks so much better so i got myself a sportline. Then retrofitted all the extras that an L&K would of had.

You don’t need to purchase anything. if you go onto the Skoda website directly and put your VIN number in it will give you a set of instructions on how to format your own SD card, it will give you a huge download file and you can update it yourself for free.

On the centre screen go to trip computer - overview, click the ‘ok’ scroll wheel till it’s on long term. That will change the small display also.

@GizmoI have sent you a PM also, I have VCDS HEX-CAN and ODIS located South East/London - Potters Bar. Thank you

Pulling out all the stops again man! Always so helpful for people. Looks good, how much did they set you back?

My MY17 has it in the U.K.

It will work on moving objects as well as stationary objects no problem. the thing you are talking about is front assist, not manoeuvre braking

There are 4 systems youre getting confused with: - Standard parking sensors whether front or rear - ParkPilot which is self parking using the above sensors + 4 more - Front assist which is collision detection at speeds above i believe 30km/h using the front medium range radar - Manoeuvre assist which uses the parking sensors at very low speeds to detect objects or pedestrians and will put the brakes on i believe its speeds below 10km/h

It’s hard to tell based on the photo but I would say they are very damp yes. Just go take the car, they can’t stop you but I bet they will try.

For the record - they CANNOT legally withhold your car whether an MOT fail or not. The most they can do is report you to the police for driving away but they won’t. If you can drive the car with failures depends on certain factors. if the mot is still valid and the fail wasn’t dangerous you have 10 days to return for a retest I believe. chances are it’s lightly misted and the dealer wants to pull your pants down. I personally would change a shock for you at a much much lower price if you’re In the north London area.

Drop me a private message, something isnt right here and i can give you a hand getting to the bottom of it.

Something is not right here, and there is a few possible options You can have a low line or highline camera, different specs and functions of either. Highline allows you to have full control of the camera including moving lines and a better view. What they have fitted... well i have no idea what that is, whether they have somehow got a lowline camera but charged you more than i charge for highline... or theyve done the worst thing and got a universal camera kit and wired that in. Do you have an invoice from when the camera was fitted, who fitted in specifically and did they use genuine parts? EDIT: Ive re-read what you said, it wasnt a main dealer that fitted it was it im guessing... Where abouts are you based as its not in your bio?

Can you show us what you see so we get a better idea? also a photo of the actual camera itself please

Can you show us a photo of this view angle. I retrofit cameras a lot for people so am pretty well versed in all the ins and outs, issue with the dealer is they have 3 things to go by and don’t actually understand how it works -they’re step by step instruction guide -the 5 digit code they enter to code it -any fault codes with all these they aren’t too sure what they are actually doing, just following a set of instructions, hopefully this means they can’t mess it up. out of interest, what did they charge

Honestly they’re a bit of a gimmic, you’ll use them all of 2/3 times then completely forget they are there.

It will use the motor to slow the car to a low speed then from a very slow speed the hydraulic brakes will then kick in to bring the car to a stop. same way if you had to do an emergency stop the electric motor has the ability to completely lock the wheels as they are so powerful, but lack the control of abs, so hydraulic braking would be used only for this

Nope, they use a different system to secure the radio and should need any codes or anything. If it did, youve got bigger issues

Really good guide, but in the end i just replaced the switch for the sake of £25, makes a massive difference.

The purpose of turning the wheel lock to lock is just to recalibrate the steering angle sensor. Hence all the faults on the dash when a battery is changed.

Its a very common feature on all cars nowadays. Its not about dragging in the brakes. It will very occasionally in wet weather apply the brakes, not even enough for you to notice or cause any extra wear, just enough to dry the discs off.

Boiling water will expand when heated in open air yes. But because it’s a sealed system the pressure of the air expanding in the expansion bottle will also force the level downwards so it will look lower, but it isnt

The level will drop when the car is hot, remove the cap when the car is stone cold and this is when you should check the level. And of course, be parked on level ground.

Trade prices are not the same as retail prices though, theres always gonna be an additional fee put on by the company £490 fitted means £190 in labour, thats incredibly cheap, I definitely wouldn't be doing the job for that price, its a messy and scratchy job.