Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Why did you change the headlight bulbs, that might or might not have some thing to do with the flickering LED DRL. Were the new headlight bulbs different from the previous set. Just replacing the LED DRLs may not be the resolve of the problem. You can the DRLs off via the infotainment menu. The warning light is doing its job by letting you know there is a problem with the light.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. They don't need to know but they do need to be trained and equipped with the information to easily look it up and pass on, this of course requires the Dealership and Skoda/VW UK and Skoda/VW to provide the information, easy look-up and training - but of course as many (most? all?) Dealerships in England (UK?) are well below this level and Skoda/VW UK and Skoda/VW don't seem to always be a lot better or perhaps even worse.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Where are you taking this 13v reading from and are you doing the test with a cheap digital multimeter as they can be inaccurate and unreliable.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Much of the MoT test is of one trained person's opinion and only relates to that one point of time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That might be a typo on your part and you mean 83,000 miles (?) Feb 2018 and the 81,000 miles just a mistake or wrong memory but you want consistent accurate information. If the lady has any paperwork, bills, receipts, MoTs, you want to ask to see them all and then put them in (reverse) chronological order, most recent at front of pile that way you can cross reference dates and mileages as conformation. 81,000 (or 83,000) miles in about 6 years is good average annual mileage but then 6,000 miles (or 4,000) in coming up to 4 years isn't so good particularly for a 2012 diesel and DPF so needs investigating. The gearshift might be an easy inexpensive (or no-cost) repair or it might not, plenty of info on here about transmissions and clutches. As well as looking at all paper and other records (like online previous MoTs) I would get a good level scan tool plugged in to it before and during a test drive. Some errors codes can just be from silly things like letting the car battery get too low for the computers or just not cleared after being resolved but it's all more info to make a decision on. EnterName and toot have given some good advice and I think you are right to be concerned with the car and getting a diesel of that age particularly if you're main use is only short journeys and/or less frequent use. Some cars can be sorted easily whereas others can have continuing ongoing problems, a death by a thousand cuts and some of them deep.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It would be helpful to know what year your model is and if you mean LED daylight or incandescent filament (ordinary bulb). - (Typed before AGFalco;s reply). I changed the daylight ordinary bulbs on my wife's car only last week, they're same as indicator bulbs P21W (382 in old money), got the hook tool out of the boot, turn the front wheels towards the engine to give more room to reach up in the wheel arch, pull cover off with hook tool, took quite a pull, reach in, slightly twist to remove bulb holder - full details in the Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models It can sometimes help to have the model details shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post, I’ve no idea what that bit is called, it’s the bit with your posting 'name'. I don’t think this info is shown on all devices to all viewers but you only have to enter the info once (and change as required) so worth the effort I think. The following helped another poster get the details on display. – click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. This might save you having to repeat some information and tell some viewers the details without having to ask or have them referring to a different something not with your car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As it costs nothing and is so easy to do why not try synchronising the key remote, all you do is press any button on the remote from outside the car and then (within a minute) open the door using the key blade in the door lock. That simple and quick, what's to lose. Full details in the 'Owner's Manual'.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No errors is not the same as no faults, off spec or something is wrong, no errors means the criteria to give error has not been meet or the error has or cannot be read, for many reasons. Computers and their programs also can be wrong or go wrong, it is one of the great delights of their ownership and use.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just for info, the link Carlston has kindly put to go directly to the info wont work as I (don't) understand it because it no longer has some sort of digital/computer/program/internet(?) American biscuit so you have to go to the following link and paddle to the info via the model and part of year (or VIN for your own car). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I too heartedly (and regularly) recommend reading and refereeing to the Owner's Manuals even if they get more frustrating to use with newer models. The Owner's Manual for the Octavia iV (is that supposed to be Mk4) Issue dates 14.6.2021 and 29.11.2012 have the same as Carlston has put except they only have for 17" (and not 16") - "Rim size 6,5Jx17 ET46, Tyre size 205/55 R17. Only fit snow chains with links and locks that are no larger than 13 mm." 205/55/17 compared with 225/40/19 doesn't give very much extra clearance above the tyre. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Well, I do not know (obviously), perhaps they are absolute stops in case the accelerator cable snap(?) but then wouldn't the engine stalk if the flap is fully closed(?). I can only see it as I put before but I do not know and am often wrong. Other Felicia owners must have the same mechanism or similar pity they are not around at the moment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. It can sometimes help to have the model details shown in the bit on the l/h/s of each post, I’ve no idea what that bit is called, it’s the bit with your posting 'name'. I don’t think this info is shown on all devices to all viewers but you only have to enter the info once (and change as required) so worth the effort I think. The following helped another poster get the details on display. – click on your 'name', very top right of this page on the drop menu that appears click on 'Profile' click on the black box 'Edit Profile' scroll down to 'Car Info' enter details click on green box 'Save'. This might save you having to repeat some information and tell some viewers the details without having to ask or have them referring to a different something not with your car. HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Perhaps the gap from the stops was not there at the three diagnostics or the computer set up was done with that gap so the computer takes that as the setting(?). I would have thought the stops are there for the accelerator to be at full rest for idle with the throttle plate as open as required for idle. What does the workshop manual say about the stops.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You can only set it as per the instructions as there is a computer involved, the computer wants what it wants, it is the master you are its slave.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. So cable adjustment is at throttle body end and for near enough wide open throttle and the other end of the revs is set by the magic electric box. 20 years of use probably mean things have worn a bit and adjustment required. I am not sure how much the sticky grease would imped the cable travel as I guess the spring is strong but it would not hurt to clean it all off. The end stops on the cable wheel and body of throttle are quite substantial so I would have thought been designed for a lot of use, idle stops I would guess but I do not know the unit at all. I did notice a slight bend in the cable and wondered if this signified anything.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Always worth checking the fuses, if any are 'blown' then of course you want to find out why. If you don't have the Owner's Manual with you you can download a pdf copy, select VIN or model and time of year. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just for your info, doesn't alter the great info AG Falco has given you. The online copies of the 'Owner's Manual' are just pdf copies of the paper printed copy you have (beyond a certain point they change but not for your year). There are two pdf copies for 2016, 05.2016 and 11.2016, both have 'fig 195' but on one page number different. You can find the pdf copies here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have a look at the workshop manual and see how it should be set up.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I would not imagine the sticky would hinder the cable much if at all. To test you could pull against the spring and see how strong the action is, or have someone sit in the car to press and release the accelerator pedal whilst you look at how well the throttle cable operates. Probably best to remove the sticky as it will only get mucky. I see you have 7 wires and not 5 as I thought.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Oh toot, that's not motorsport snobbery and elitism is it. 😄 I see your point but might it be applying the opposite extreme. I used to change my car on average every 12 months, usually within three years, but the last one I had for 15 years (not intentionally) and I've seen where some have had a car 30, 40, 50 years, some with regular use still. As with much in life how something is looked after at the start of life and early years can contribute to how well things go and for how long. Most people consider looking after a new car well but less so as with the car's age and accumulated use yet as many of us older people know more attention and care is needed at these later stages not less, things wear and wear out and don't operate as well as previously. Paying more than is needed is relative, I'm sure racers don't want to pay more than is needed but I bet they do because they are often well into diminishing returns and using much greater volumes of the expensive consumables. They would have to be at the extreme levels of finance in their motorsport to be able to check the benefit and need of the expensive consumables but then that would probably be controlled by politics, sponsorship and other considerations. Perhaps how much they can bend the rules and get away with it, without being caught cheating, as a matter of sportsmanship of course. 🤣 But I believe we all have our oil beliefs and it's each to their own. I do wonder why VW need to have such tight specification needs for their engines, it not (just?) corporate mutual deals and I'm sure it wouldn't be to make up for any engineering compromises or changes for whatever reasons or unexpected consequences of real world use, perhaps they're just control freaks. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Try a Search on 'This Forum' (top right corner of this page) or at 7 euros a time(?) cost see below just posted by varooom. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I am NOT an expert in oils sales and marketing but I do have years of experience in sales, retail and B2B (as some jargonists might have said, business to business to the rest of us) and it's as rum4mo has put in my understanding. Taking another motoring example oil filters, many different brand names go on to oil filters made on the same production line but this doesn't necessarily mean they will all be made exactly the same. Have a look on YouTube Americans, and some others cutting open oil filters. I understand what toot has put about price not always relating to quality and as a former hi-fi nut probably know more than most about diminishing returns on further costs and expenditure. I'm used to different people having different beliefs about oil from my dealings with "classic" car owners where surprisingly to me those with the older cars were more likely to want and accept better oils. The more conservative owners with newer old cars often just went go for old brand names and weight ranges not accepting or knowing that sometimes whilst the brand name is the same the actual oil will be different from its original formulation anyway because of developments and the passing of time and might even be made by a different company anyway. IIRC Halfords Classic 20w50, Wilco and Duckhams Q are (were) all Comma (a Brazilian company). toot, just think of the oil like the petrol but bear in mind you have base stocks that can be varied and additive packages that can be varied. I try to buy the better oils when I see them on offer rather than strictly when I need them, though I did get lucky with the Fabia's transmission oil as I didn't look ahead but got a good oil for the same price as a cheap oil, so why would I bother with the cheap oil then - and I couldn't find where VW would let me know the quantity I needed.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Ian, I've just deleted what I put as I've just read @langers2k post and it's as he put, not that I understand cookies other than they're what Americans call biscuits. That link previously worked for me as I had first found the the Owner's Manual where I always looked, on https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models . Thank you @langers2k for the explanation, it answers my question to @johnboy60.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi Richard, yeap I know, don't list bulbs either or how to change the door mirrors indicator bulbs. Until a number of weeks ago I ran a 1973 MG Midget as my only car for 15 years and other "classics" (over-priced and over-valued old cars) for about 15 years prior to that, so I'm used to the Driver's Handbook being comprehensive and helpful. IMO for engine oil & filter changes once a year or 10k-miles, whichever is sooner (soonest?) is the minimum - but it depends on a number of factors. If a garage is doing the job they may just do a cold quick change. If you do it yourself you can have the existing engine oil as warm as possible before draining to be able to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible and leave the oil to drain as long as possible to get as much existing oil and muck out as possible. This will mean you get more fresh new oil in and it is less diluted by the smaller amount of residue existing oil and muck left in. Towards the end of the drain I also pour some warm(ed) fresh oil in and allow that to fully drain to act as a final flush. As well as the thoroughness you may decide to consider the timeliness and frequency as well as the regularity and if your approximately 2 long runs a month aren't that long or regular you might consider changing the engine oil and filter every 6 months or 5k-miles instead if you want the car long term. Many will say as long as the oil is to spec get the cheapest you can, I'm not in that camp, I see meeting the spec as just the minimum standard I prefer to use good quality oils in the engine, gearbox (and rear axle) as the better oils offer better protection and for longer giving greater margins in the vehicles use and for if somethings go wrong. I went from twice a year engine oil and filter changes to once a year and using better quality oil (and filter) as I I used to 20 and 30(?) years ago. Of course there's much more to maintaining the car for a long life than just the engine especially with these modern and more modern cars. Take a general tip from me, don't let your car battery get low in charge even if the car still starts and the lights seem bright enough. And you can't drive these more modern cars always on economy mindset they need blow-out (Italian tune-up) runs than even more than with the usual draggy-arsed driver "classics" and that's not steady motorway stuff (check your online Owner's Manual). Here endth the sermon. 🙂

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. What route got you to such a short address? The link works directly for me and I can access the Owner's Manual, have you left some sort of open path, it's magic as it goes straight to the model being discussed, 'ow da do dat den? 😮

@toot careful, you might feel bad if Skoda/VW/VAG business goes a bit pop, you'll think of the good times then. 😄