nta16

Edited - now a redundant post.

The VW battery info stuff was about VW stats, and probably being able to blame the battery manufacturers for some VW balls-ups that stuff is redundant now and not on the batteries. Yeap the 'coding' is basic just getting the capacity (ah) correct or at leas very close, battery manufacturer means nothing now, serial number was a joke as seen from factory below my wife's battery and others that have reported on here were all "1111111111" so just changing the last digit was enough to show a new battery, most important was the type of battery, EFB or AGM (know as "fleece/Fleece" to VW. varoom made the attached pdf freely available to those that want it for VCDS battery 'coding'. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

That sounds like you bought the same Varta(?) (Tosch) labelled battery as I put on my wife's 2015 Fabia, did you 'code' it to the car for AGM? Some find it hard to believe how draining frequent short journeys can be on the battery but they also possibly can't understand why their home electric bills are so high, I think a coin (not card) slot-meter for the car's battery would teach some particularly pampered children not used to paying for such stuff. 😁 I don't now have access to my former neighbour's TopDon scanner and Ring charger and analyser but from experience of decades of living around old people I know that a creaking gate can hang for a very long time or whatever the saying is, I'd take the SOH numbers as a guide only a comparison from previous readings, set to the correct battery spec of course. Keeping the battery from getting too low in charge and if required occasional preventative recharging of the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer (following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and for the charger maintainer) if the car isn't getting sufficient driving use will keep its health reasonable for as long as possible. Even with the PITA VW systems I've found I have very, very little to do very occasionally and it's clean hands work with the tools doing all the stuff in whatever weather whilst I do any other than the what is to me loathsome PITA farting about with a car. I've no idea how long the battery will last on my wife's Fabia but my aim is to so it go with the car and do as little as practically possible to both until then, but they will be more than nothing of course. As I used to use various "classic" cars as my daily use and for work use vehicles for 30+ years having a car that started was very important, if it would start then very often (certainly not always) what other problems with the car I could limp it home and worry about it in the warm and dry, as batteries used to be called starter batteries these were always important to me and that they were in good condition and connection to help start, get home, and diagnosis some issues.

Your experience was just about the same as with my wife's insurance renewal with perhaps the difference that after the quote from going to a popular comparison site getting back to that site via TopCashback Compare got her £45 back from TopCashback too. Again quality of the insurer and the policy are more important to me than absolute lowest policy price should a claim ever need to be made and obviously you can never know when that might be.

Be interesting to see how that compares with your 2010 Golf (especially if start/stop). Yes you hope VW have things have been calculated correctly, IIRC (which is often doubtful) I've read AGM batteries are fine at 80%(?) but then real life use can vary things a lot sometimes. From what I've read, seen and experienced it's rare to have a bad new battery but on the other hand there's VW, my wife's 2015 Fabia was subject to "recall campaign(?)" 97CU which was to quote Briskoda member vgnils - " I looked into this the other day in erWin. This is what it says: "Technical background - For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy - On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)."". In the 2024 Karoq Owner's Manual it has - so it appears a month was being too generous, and they give advice on charging amperage and to fully charge the battery. -

Post deleted to save boring others and myself.

I'm not impressed with CTeks based on my mate owing a couple of them and their high prices but I'm surprised by this, was it the CTEK, mains power supply or Disco 3 or 4 that caused this do you know? A mate had an early Land Rover Disco in 1990 and when we went to the 20th anniversary LR Monthly magazine (?) big meet at Billing Aquadrome, just up the road from me, we went out in the LR demo Camel Disco and the LR man had a show of hands for who had what LR model, as he finished listed them off he turned to my mate and said my mate hadn't put his hand up and my mate said he'd not listed his model of the Disco V8 to which the LR chap shaked my mate's hand saying he was the first Disco V8 owner he'd meet. It was about 13 months old, under LR cover when it wouldn't start, the reason a speak of crud on the battery post terminal and/or battery post clamp, luckily in those days the breakdown employees where incentivised to sell a new battery unnecessarily. Crud cleaned off and IIRC the battery remained on the Disco for a number of years later when the Disco was sold on.

On a very modern VW like a Škoda even with a new battery leaving it for a month or a few months will do the battery some harm, even if the battery is new it's still just a power store that depletes and given enough it will effect its life if only a little. A reason why I fully charge a brand new battery before I fit it to the car, hopefully it doesn't take much to get it fully charged (and if it is fully charged great it only takes seconds). If left for a month or a few months the car may well start, and start well, and the lights seem bright enough but the battery has been affected by being left on the car without a battery charger maintainer connected. Left long enough a used battery may not fully recharge, it will charge but not to full on the charger. I've had this twice this year with neighbour's cars, one was a less than 3 year old car, the other older but without start/stop, this one even though the battery had the "water" (electrolyte) level in each cell were fine and I was able to do a quick visual check on the plates in each cell and they seemed fine. The batteries did recharge, but not to full, and where usable on the cars, still just parked up but I'd not trust either on a a very modern VW car like a Škoda.

It might be on 'Škoda Recall Campaigns'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns You can also check for more major recalls on the bottom of the 'Check the MOT history of a vehicle' result page. - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

Hi, welcome. All of those things need sorting by the Škoda main dealer you bought the car from the burning smell particularly doesn't sound good you want that looked at (and sorted) ASAP. The (to me PITA) lane "assist" I don't know on your car but a green symbol usually means you have the system turned on, AFAIK on amber lines means you have crossed a line or the computers think you have, or you are close to a white line or other object or the computer thinks you are, never fully trust these systems they can be unreliable and often like a very nervous passenger or very inexperienced driver only these systems when switched on actually start grabbing at the wheel and interfering with your driving. You have certainly done the right thing by reading the Owner's Manual but yes some of the information is a little confusing, I never bother with the Škoda videos as the few I've seen don't seem that instructive to me. It is very important on modern cars that the car battery is in a good state of charge (and health) as the computers don't like a battery that is in a low state of charge and that can be well before the engine takes a bit more effort to start or any warning messages or lights so I would suggest you get the Dealership to check and report on your battery and replace if required. If the battery isn't replaced then I suggest you have an appropriate battery charger maintainer, read the instructions in the Owner's Manual and fully recharge the battery when required or better still do a preventive full recharge when required. Just one example of a charger, low and slow is best so 4-amp (or less). - Ring RSC 904 - https://www.ringautomotive.com/en/product/RSC904 A 2020 car may be low milage from the periods of covid lock down which didn't help car (or their batteries) but if your Karoq continued to be little used and/or lots of short and/or infrequent journeys then sat with the Dealership there could be other items suffering from this lack of use that need sorting and only appear with more use of the car. Whatever the mileage and use it needs the full time and/or mileage servicing and maintenance, a low mileage car needs proportionately more servicing and maintenance in some respects than average or high mileage. And servicing now is quite limited, basically an engine oil and filter change and a look for chargeable work and maintenance of some items far too stretched or missing IMO. Do not expect that the Dealership has fully checked the car properly and make sure it is up to date with any recalls and software updates. To conclude, for info on the lane "assist" and lots more info about the Karoq you are best looking at and asking in the 'Skoda Karoq' forum, you'll also get a more cheery attitude as I'm not a VW fan but hopefully all there will also be honest and know about any issues with the car and (some?) Dealerships. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/364-skoda-karoq/ More details on your name badge(?) might also help, as an example mine.- HTH. Good luck.

More information is needed as it could be for a few different reasons, a video of not starting might help or info on if it's a cranking or engine starting issue. I forget have you serviced the car, for this things like engine air filter, spark plugs, (oil & filter) checked the electrics from battery onwards, ETA: including ignition system, that all connections and wires are clean, secure and protected and that parts are fully working properly, then on to fuel supply (and perhaps quality?) from tank to cylinders.

-What to consider if the brake drums might be worn and there are crap old car parts around. Don't start a pile on. Yeap that table answers R_U_AFA's question which I didn't know and couldn't find on a quick search so asked for, and you have provided it. All's well that ends well.

Yes I'll give you both, if you are turning beyond or well beyond what you would normal have to lock up its a good indication of wear or lots of wear of shoes and/or drums depending on state of each, but measuring is by far the best but, if you don't know the start and worn thickness of the shoes and the drums and can't find out it's a good indicator if you've previously done rear brake adjustment at servicing or when required. If you know the measurements for the drums then post it or if you can find it find it. We don't know the car or it's history of use so best to check drums and shoes.

You also need to consider if the drums are worn, if you can adjust the shoes so they lock up the drums [ ETA: within reasonable adjustment] then the drums [TEA: probably ] aren't worn out (though they could be worn in other ways). I don't know on Felicas but on other drums the wear figures were cast into the drum. As put rear shoes and drums generally last a very long time but as, the shoes at least, are such an inexpensive part for the most important component system on the car renewing them is a good consideration. You don't want cheap crap brake shoes though. I found on my 1973 MG (similar brakes as Minis, Minors) that I could get the drums very cheap but the quality wasn't great, I wish I'd had my original drums machined for the new wider shoes even though It' would have been less expense to buy a few spare sets of the cheap drums. There used to be places that would reline the shoes and places that have original stock, whether either applies to where you are I don't know but as its VAG I'd have thought (don't know) the shoes (and drums) might have been fitted to other VAAG marque and models so still available widely. You could ring a brake manufacturer (or good supplier) and get details of minimum thickness if you wanted. Good luck.

There's more to the tyre's handling than a width number. Comfort (braking, steering, handling, road holding and noise) will depend on the quality of the tyre, its design, build and materials quality, any decent tyres in 19" size won't be low priced but could be "cheap". You do need to check that a different size tyre will fit and work correctly on your car. Tyres sizes (dimensions) can be nominal and vary very slightly and fit differently even if of exactly the same (on paper) size. According to this "tire" size calculator you get 5 mm (+5.4%) more on the sidewall height and of course (a nominal) 10 mm (+3.2%) tyre width the extra "rubber" may translate to more comfort but there are a lot of variables to consider as to how much. Having used and unworn brand new tyres should give improvements over used and worn tyre anyway but again this depends on variables. Select a tyre that is good quality and has characteristics and reports of giving a comfortable ride, don't put too much faith in the tyre label ratings and bear in mind with reviews that they not relate to your model and type of driving. Good luck

All three scanner could have program holes and glitches and without knowing who owns them they might bot be fully up to date so hopefully an appropriate VCDS machine might show more or different. Live data with everything plugged in may give leads, error codes aren't always the be-all and can even sometimes be misleading or distraction(s) and diagnostics done without error codes (or even a scanner sometimes). Have a look at that link I put in my last post and see how you get on Sunday, best of luck. If you have to get an auto-electrician in make sure his scanner (if only their were more women working in the car trade) is appropriate to your model and year (or VIN) of car and is it fully updated with all program updates for your model and year (or VIN) of car. I've not dealt with auto-electricians but I have other sorts of electricians and in my personal/business experience many of them can be lazy and looking for shortcuts and don't always have their tools fully ready for use.

I know nothing other than some basics which I always start from. Is the scan tool you are using appropriate to VW programs and at an appropriate level, and specifically to your model and year (or VIN) of car and is it fully updated with all program updates for your model and year (or VIN) of car, if not accuracy of some readings/codes can be suspect. Your car is about 13 years old so odds things can happen and show up (flashing glow plug lamp)(?)). Have you seen the following, perhaps you could get help there too. - https://www.obd-codes.com/p0651 The fact that you current issue started when you hit a pothole might be significant, or of course might be a coincidence), you have done some testing and you may have already also done the following, did you check the condition inside and out of all connectors, cleaned and repaired if required, condition of wires and checked connectors and wires are secure and protected, tried wiggle tests whilst the engine is running (on the ones you mention and others). Also consider that you might have more than one issue at once or that more than one thing might be contributing or combining to one or more issues. Always, test any testing equipment before making tests to confirm accuracy and double-checked things you have previously checked even if you think you've checked them enough or "it wont be that". Another set of eyes, ears, nose, touch, hands, mind on site can often be useful to confirm things or Sod's Law find what you've missed or previously checked. That's me out of ideas. Good luck.

https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ If the spare wheel is 16" then that might be as small as you can go. As put the rides comfort isn't just about the figures but also the design and build of the tyre and the materials used, two tyre of the same size (sizes are nominal btw) may give different levels of ride comfort. Just as a comparison, in theory for 15" tyre size comparison (without fashion the car could easily be on 14" wheels but that's not modern styling). 195/65 r15 would be same rolling circumference as 225/45 r17 and you would get your 1" (25%) difference in sidewall height. https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

With car parts (and cars) it depends a lot on the manufacture(r) for the quality, some may be very good and others not. On other makes of car the bushes may last much longer and not need replacing at this age. My wife's 2015 Fabia has clunk/knock (and had poor quality factory-fitted front dampers replaced a few years back) but as I've read on here others have replaced a series of parts for the noise to remain so I very begrudgingly put up with it. MoT time soon so we'll see if there's more expense from lower quality factory-fitted suspension parts.

I would still Fully recharge it in the way I put before to ensure it's fully recharged as the more often it gets partials charges the quicker the battery will suffer and expire. Probably ensure at least a quote for an expensive battery change. Batteries like central heating problems often show up longer term issues at the first really cold snap of winter and if not fail then fail soon after just when loads of other people experience the same thing so shortages and narrower lack of choice of plumber and batteries and the issues at less than convenient times. You can help to prevent this by preventative full charging of the battery a bit before the cold snap (and getting the c/h sorted in the summer). Many drivers may not know the car battery likes about 20c ambient but self discharges twice as much at 30c and twice as much at 40c as 30c and with the use of a/c is getting a lot of use this depletes so when the cold weather arrives and the battery has problems holding the charge there is less charge to hold and the battery as already be weaken so lower state of charge and health when again it's going to have to do a lot of work. The less work the battery can do the more work the car's alternator has to do, if one is kept weak it will eventually wear the other. It's very difficult to compare how long something like a car battery will las as there are many variables to take into consideration even if comparing two cars that are exactly the same make and model of car and batteries, same as you and your neighbours using different amount of gas, electric and water, some use more than others and some are more wasteful and less maintenance than others. People (including us) pay an arm and a leg to have the engine oil (and hopefully filter) changed annually to help keep it going, or if you done it yourself (like I sometimes do) it's a dirty messy job often rolling about on the ground, whereas battery maintenance such as preventative full recharging is very easy, clean hands work that can be working whilst your asleep. Or perhaps the Dealership or garage might say the battery is fine. Let us know how it goes on.

I got a set of two of these "wheel alignment tools" today they are the best I've had, full diameter for full length, longer too, knurling isn't sharp to the touch and a cut (screwdriver type) slot on end. £15.98 (set of two) including P&P off eBay UK so not the cheapest but better than the previous two individuals ones I got before. I now have a set of four should I need to rotate or swap over two wheels/tyres at once.

Why are you looking there (at a 05.2012 edition). - this is in the Škoda Owner's Manuals website ( https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models ) (page 36, "Citigo anglicky 05.2012" version) has the following. - If you've not got your paper printed copy of the car's Owner's Manual you can download a free VWŠkoda pdf copy of it from the VWŠkoda site I put the link to above using a guess at the build date or your VIN.

Fair enough Michael, I should have put, if you haven't already done so, but I forgot. I didn't realise a reversing camera would need coding but perhaps yours is more involved. There are some professionals on the list so perhaps more used to these sorts of jobs. If you're up to installing a tow bar and getting it working properly then perhaps you could treat yourself to a suitable scan tool for your job and others. Hopefully the thread being active might attract someone's attention who can help you. Cheers.

ETA: when did this start? Have you had or done any work on the car? Do you have any electrics added to the car after it left the factory, towbar, different "stereo", lights, etc., etc..

Quick thoughts. What is happening when the fuse blows, is it raining, are you opening a door, turning lights on, is the correct fuse amperage in the correct fuse location, have you checked the boot, glovebox, wiring conduits at doors. In the Owner's Manual (assuming it's correct, not always the case) Fuse Location 23 shows as "Interior lighting, storage compartment and luggage compartment, side lights" so you need to check all these, the connectors and connections and wiring, making sure nothing has caused an exposed wire or bridging connections. Use your eyes and a magnifying glass (and nose for smell if soon after blow). Look at the bulbs and bulb holders and boards for any evidence of anything untoward. Wrong bulbs fitted badly. All electrics want to be clean, secure and protected.