nta16

That's not a downside, on a Skoda Fabia MK3 as using the keyblade synchronises the remote keyfob - but the car alaarm then goes off when you open the door - not "clever". I dislike remote keyfobs and almost always used the keyblade on my wife's previous car, it also help to synchronise, - and the alarm didn't go off !

Only if you consider and allow for all risks and circumstances, allowing for the unexpected and another vehicle with or without local driver. For obvious and various reasons most accidents are more likely to happen nearer your home.

Loads of roads like that around England and Wales at least, that looks fabulous but it does depend on how much and what type of traffic it gets on it and when. As with all those types of single track roads with hedges either side you want to pick your times if out for a fun drive. Roads that size often have grass growing in the middle of the tarmac, can clean a line on the underside particularly if it's been raining. The fact that that road doesn't have grass in the middle may suggest it's been resurfaced fairly recently(-ish) to photo taken and/or the road is used more frequently than others like it. These are the things a driver may consider. By the third world state of UK roads now it might suggest it's an older photo but as it's a UK government election year I expect suddenly more roads we will see more holes filled and resurfacing. Obviously you as always adjust your speed for the road and circumstances but you don't have to fear any problems on a road like that. When you're in a low set sports car with your buttocks nearer the road surface it obviously also means your head and eyes are also lower so you don't see over hedges or walls even on wider two track or more roads so you get used to looking out, listening, smelling what might be ahead or around, on country roads it's best not to drive through or brake on slurry or large animal droppings - especially if you have no doors on the vehicle. 😄

Sorry I had a total brain-fart I meant voluntary excess not non-voluntary. Really annoying making adjustments on those comparison sites as you then get a quote for it saved in your every growing list of quotes on that site and follow up emails (or text I suppose on mobile devices, I've no idea) so you need to delete the ones you don't want to keep ASAP or your lose track of your a and e. Comparison sites aren't always the best source when dealing with insurance that's not middle of the road mass market stuff, specialist brokers and insurers can be better but sometimes perhaps the bigger names take advantage and don't offer good value trading on their name (advertising) to secure more business at higher prices within their market. I've lived with neighbours in their 80s and 90s for decades and I know why their premiums are higher and have known of them and others in that age range who really shouldn't be driving on the roads but are still able to do so long after they should have stopped. Decades ago I worked out it was more expensive to keep a car than use taxis below a certain annual mileage (not including free bus pass either) but it's not about the cost and let's be honest many at that age aren't poor or very poor, relatively they're wealthy, so they can afford to keep the car (or cars) as garage and driveway ornaments that may occasionally get used, sometimes on a hit, or scrape, and run. Edited: wrong info given so deleted that part of post

This all stuff the mechanic should have done or checked when cleaning and replacing rear brake parts.

@Tintowellfan if you're not driving it much and it's parked locked up for weeks on end use the "smart" charge as a charger or even maintainer. In the Owner's Manual (unless it's one of those horrid digital only type which tell you even less) it might say disconnect the battery if you're not using the car for x-number of weeks but a maintainer left on would do similar. My neighbour's second Ren-No! (2021) car was parked (outside) for 6-weeks he told me when I pointed out his brake discs were getting very rusty and they needed using to try to clear them up. I wasn't surprised that they engine started (though the starting sounded a lot better that I was expecting) and I certainly wasn't surprised at the lights being bright - but 24 hours after the failed attempt to clear the rust by driving, repeatedly round the crescent, to save petrol, and braking, I was surprised at the battery voltage reading at the battery terminal posts wasn't anywhere near as low as I'd expected (forget what now). But after 47 (four, seven) hours of the 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer doing it's stuff (with the battery still on the car outside in cold weather) the charger wouldn't show full, confirmed by use of a multimeter reading the next day. Had I been allowed to remove the battery from the car and in my home use my 20-year old 1.8 amp charger maintainer I might have done better but possibly not or not a lot. The 6-week slow drain from a 2021 vehicle, plus whatever use/abuse/neglect/ and no use of a charger or maintainer from the previous 2.5 years, had injured the battery enough that it couldn't full recover. 😄 I think I'm the only strange one you've meet on this thread so far, there are a very few others I consider even stranger than me, but I think on this thread it's just been a matter of misunderstanding(s) one and both ways. Some like or expect quick answers from very little given information, some like to give very quick answers based only on the information given which may sometime be good and correct, some like to see quick question and quick answers too. You can guess which way I go. 😄 Whenever I try to give a quick answer it all goes wrong plus assumptions have to be made if questions are not asked or answered and we all know what assume does(?). I feel more and sometimes better information and answers can be given and not only to the one question asked, by sometimes expanding on the one question asked. What I thought of as a trickle charger 45 years ago isn't necessarily what people think of as a trickle charger now, and even might not be the same as you thought of 45 years ago, whereas they all seem to know "smart" devices now. Despite none of those devices being smart - don't get me going on "smart"-"phones" . . .

Looking at the video again that's not the road I was thinking of and might not even be a mountain road but there are so many good roads or good bits of road in Wales. When that video was shot ,for Top Gear, possibly just before the stack-of-****e joined the program and well before his little sycophant joined him, in I guess 1988, the road would have been a speed limit of 60 mph (97 kph). That wasn't a minimum speed but a maximum so you didn't have to drive the bend at 60 mph. Broken long white centre line means hazard, you can overtake on a broken white line but as always only when safe to do so. A solid white line on your side of the road means it's generally not safe to overtake but you can overtake or cross the solid white line in some circumstances but obviously only if it's safe to do so. So you just because it's a 60 mph (97 kph) road with broken long white centre line doesn't mean you can do 60 mph and overtake before, on or after the bend. We aren't quite yet at the stage where some American or other computer program has to remind us how to drive or take over our driving (well they already partially do with modern cars) and need to be told not to put our head under a wheel and leave the handbrake off or let someone drive over our head (well most of us I hope). I remember reading the Owners Manual when I got my MX-5 in 1999 I couldn't believe it a third of the pages at least were full of safety warnings some were ridiculous but then the car was aimed at the American market where some would sue anyone for allowing them to act like an idiot without specifically explaining what idiotic things they should not do with the car. Even then they would have had a different book as the car was called a Miata over there (and LHD) and of course they have American English langue with different words for things like "wing" and "boot" and different spellings. Of course in the Japan home-market the car was called an Eunos (and RHD same as UK) and had UK extras as standard. I couldn't see the British road jpg you linked to as my virus app didn't like it, put it up as an image here from your own device, perhaps I might misremember that road too. 😄

Why are you looking at those dials on such roads, you can hear the revs and going up a mountain road in warm weather the engine may well get hot but that's normal, an occasional glance is fine but no need for more. When the needle is near or at 'H' or red it means the engine is hot not overheating, you will know your car dials and when to start being more vigilant. I had a car that would have the needle on the red and someone else with the same model new told me he drove all round France for a week with the needle on the red without issue, I will be honest and say I changed the fan thermoswitch as my car was an earlier model with slighter larger engine with only one fan and fibreglass bodies hold the engine heat plus these cars had two huge exhaust header gather tube boxes. I'd forgot the next video, it shows a Welsh mountain pass that even you definitely can't consider dangerous. 😉 -

If it is the rubber timing belt IIRC since July 2023 VW / VWSkoda finally put the UK with Europe and said every 15 years or 180000 miles whichever comes first, annual check perhaps, and this refers to the belt only. Now, I've no idea if Skoda Ireland might still be playing money-grabbers and still on the former VW / VWSkoda UK schedule for the purposes of their revenues and profits rather than looking after their customers' properly, who'd have thought it from VW.

That may depend on where you live and the insurer or other factors but playing around with the the answers and settings on the website forms (as long as being honest of course) can give a range to your options, as an example only depending on your circumstances reducing the preset non-voluntary excess given may not affect the premium.

Steve, if you've already done so my apologies but if not, have you tried the following link. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

It might be the size and colour of your wheel and tyre combination and/or the levelness and evenness of the ground the car is parked on but in that photo the front at least already looks low enough to me. People often think of changing springs and dampers to get the car to handle better when it's worn suspension bushes that might be causing much of any ride handling issues. Good tyres in good condition are always an asset as they also cover braking and steering as well as the suspension. Depends on what you call high speeds and on a public forum like this is I expect you mean high legal road speeds unless you meant on a track,. I only have experience of my wife's standard 2015, 1.2 TSI, SE (and a passenger ride once round Bruntingthorpe many years ago in a Mk1 or maybe 2 VRS, I didn't notice at the time) and my wife's car has always been stable at 70 mph without hint that it would have anything like slightly terrifying wobbles into low three digits at least, it is a bit wallowy on twisty country roads if pushed but depends on what you're used to and expect. Unless you're driving at the top end of the car's book claimed speed performance I'd suggest you get your tyres, steering and suspension thoroughly checked over. I can't remember how tough or not the Irish MoTs are but a pass in the morning could be a fail in the afternoon and the MoT pass, if the same as UK, are just to met minimum statutory standards at one point in time to one person's opinion they don't say the car is in as good as it could or should be conditions. With the handbrake sounds like possibly before you got the car it might have been sitting around unused a bit and/or perhaps you might have added to this a bit, but you might drive it daily or near daily and it was already set in, Other than cosmetics I don't know if a spoiler would do anything or much for road use, my wife's car has a small lip above the rear window and I assumed they all have. The best thing to get the car running well and first part of any tuning is to have the whole car fully serviced, maintained and repaired until this point further tuning is at best compromised. Other stage of tuning, possibly should be first, is what many men don't like to hear or consider, is further driver training and this is transferable to other cars and road use and might lower insurance premiums depending on the type of further training. Always the person's choice of course but I always suggest with a car new to you that other than the whole car full servicing, maintenance and repairs to leave any cosmetics and upgrades and improvements until you have used and driven the car for 6-12 months through as many circumstances, weather and roads as possible. That way you'll learn about the car and how to drive it to get the best from it and you may find things you thought you might want to change you've got used to, or visa-versa. Plus you might find you need the money you spent on any cosmetics and upgrades and improvements you need for unexpected priority stuff on the car (the handbrake might be a small minor example). If when doing the whole car full servicing, maintenance and repairs, or later servicing, maintenance and repairs parts actually need to be replaced then perhaps that might be a good time to upgrade the parts but bear in mind many upgrades and improvements can turn out to be not so and even make things worse, or worse overall. You need to consider overall balance when doing so too an upgrade/improvement in one item might unbalance the overall system so not giving an overall upgrade/improvement. First performance change I consider is tyres, good performing tyres in good condition make a difference to braking, steering, handling, road holding, comfort and noise, it might just be renewing the ones already on the car or changing to another make and model of tyre, if the whole car is good it might sometimes be all that's required for driving improvement. Good luck.

@Rob-Pesci what was the outcome?

Sadly neither is event or the outcome is too rare. Some expect everything to be accurately recorded somewhere but some relies on living memory, work employee memory for some quite surprising stuff you'd not expect and memories go away, are lost or die, as with all, who controls the information can write or rewrite the history, I'm sure you know all about this from earlier (and now times ) of power, education and learning from medieval times and before perhaps AI will give us a new chapter. 😄 Pass the Dutchy on the left hand side.

You might be right as 22 appears to possibly include clip 29 by the use of the drawing bracket to panel 22. It's not clear as the drawing bracket is so close to the number 23. Some lists will give quantity against the part number that makes things clearer (example only - 1 panel, 6 clips). Don't have too much faith in parts drawings even from manufacturers as they can have errors and omissions. Have look at the following parts site for a difference to the one shown but until you have the factory fitted part out you don't know for sure how accurate any drawing is or if the part you get is exactly the same. - https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/

The roads you and I are referring to are not dangerous roads, any road can be dangerous if an inappropriate vehicle, driver driving inappropriately is on it. You reduce the risks by reading the road ahead whilst driving on it and don't go for spaces that are too narrow. You like many youngsters seem to be confusing numbers on dials with fun or too low or too high speed, get your eyes off the dials more and on to the whole area you can see out of your windows. Those roads look great the lanes each way are very wide so you can carry "speed" and momentum and use the space available in more interesting cars to drive. As with those Welsh roads (and Scottish) it depends on what and how much is on them at the same time as you, they could be holding you, and others, up or you could be holding them, and others, up. Most, not all, "classic" car drivers, in UK at least, so rarely use the "classic" that they don't know how well it could, or should, handle and don't have the experience, knowledge or trust in the vehicle to drive it as designed. Many very smart and shiny "classic" cars look very good but mechanically and other ways may be quite poor, not properly fully serviced and maintained or fully driven so are driven as if a precious and/or very old car not capable of much. Some scruffy "classic" cars can be the same and some very smart and shiny cars can be very good and driven as designed or a scruffy go very well and driven as designed. Over here we have an annual "Drive it Day" for "classics" and older car and motorbikes to promote their existence and as a political move for the umbrella club, I call it "Drive it for only one day of the year Day" then many won't bother if the weather isn't right - it was one day of the year I might avoid using my "classic" so as not to get stuck behind a line of draggy-aresed driven "classics". I don't drive fast but I don't want or need to drive my cars like they're fragile or incapable and I knew what my "classics" and I were capable of with them as I drove them all year round on all types of roads. Modern cars, particularly super cars or expensive poser cars can also suffer from lack of use by the driver and hold you up on the bends and twisties, again I am not a fast or good driver, and then many accelerate on the long straights to hold you up again at the next set of bends. Some even hold you up on the straights. I've no trouble with anyone going at their own speed on the road and I'm more than happy to let a faster driver passed me as soon as possible in whatever they're driving. If I see a complete idiot driver or rider I will where possible either turn off and go another way or pull over and wait for them to get far enough away.

With all your research I expect you already know this but in case not and for others that don't, on Google Earth there a 'show historical images' button that bring up a slide with years going back for the satellite shots. Our area includes black and white aerial overlaid photos from 1946, anything to do with ordinance given the year, I don't know. This is on PC/laptop(?) version, I don't know about the versions any "smart" devices of any size, I don't think Street View is on the "smart phones" (which often aren't much cop as a phone or to view imagines in daylight outside. On a very quick look the year 2000 appears to be the first year of any detail for Wigan (town).

Are you sure that's Wales, smooth road, and with fresh looking tarmac and white lines at side. Whether it is or not, centre white lines are for opposite lanes of traffic but not always used if the road is narrow. Especially now with modern vehicles so big and heavy and with oversized wheels and overwide tyres if there was a white centre line and the vehicle stayed to the left of it the nearside wheels might be partly or fully off the edge of the road surface. There's loads of width to that road for the wide AM, never mind width it's length looks like it would still be on the road and looks like two Midgets going in opposite direction might be able to pass each other and both remain on the road surface. Remember that's a modern car, loads of electronic and computer driver aids flattering the driver and keeping it on the road (and dulling the driving experience). The AM has just gone by what looks like a 'passing place' (top right of photo) so I expect the road is clear of other vehicles coming in the opposite direction at least, or the AM pulled in to the passing place and let any vehicle coming from the opposite direction by. Most of us here don't drive on the road as if it's a racetrack, plus on a racetrack the traffic is all going in one direction and no cyclists, pedestrians, horses, free run sheep, rocks, stones, mud. You drive within the limits of yourself, the vehicle road and weather conditions - that's a dry day with good light, empty road which is twice the width of the car. The whole car car will be in good condition of service, maintenance and repair, weighted down with sensors and computer programs and activators which will compensate or overcome many small gaps in physical or driver requirements, but obviously physics and driver errors and stupidity can beat the car and its systems and components and parts. You sound like you want to drive too fast on the roads you like rather than learn to drive at appropriate speeds on roads you feel are dangerous, if you learnt to drive on such roads you might find you drive a lot smoother on the roads you like which might be quicker than any (excessive?) tyre screeching technique. If that's Wales AM is a waste on such a dry day having a tin-top instead of drop top and being more of a wider road sports tourer and too modern for fun, any ordinary older car would be more fun to drive than the AM on that road on such a day. A rear engine Estelle would be great fun on that road. With somethings in life you don't have to be as money wealth as a King to feel like a King and a King is missing out because of the trappings of his life (Charly-boy was an AM fan from earlier times). I'm now imagining you on that road coming the opposite way in a massive luxury 4X4 stationary in the very middle of the road expecting me in whatever vehicle to pull off the road or try to get by your stationary vehicle, with barely two wheels of my vehicle on the road, so that you remain totally on road, scared to use the 4X4 vehicle even slightly as it was designed for or to dirty your tyres or wheels. 😄 I'm only joking.

@Tintowellfan did you get things sorted? I'm the, near local forums, battery charging 'nutter' (but not expert, in anything) so perhaps I can help you if you still need/want (though I think all other posters were also trying). Just to check I've got the right end of the stick you have a 2023 VWSkoda Fabia with it sounds like an EFB battery, which you have been charging with a smart (they not really that smart) 4-amp charger maintainer. The Fabia battery takes longer to recharge on the charger than the Mokka you had. I don't know the Mokka, a very quick Google search and it might be post 2014/16 with stop/start hence the AGM battery (beyond VW) - a 2023 car generally has more computer and electric stuff than a bit earlier car so more demanding on battery and perhaps alternator. I've no idea if a 2022 Mokka would be better with its electrics, battery charging and computer programming than a 2022 or 2023 VWSkoda Fabia. For possible answers more info is required and in the same way different people use more fuel than others their electric/battery use can vary. What Ah is the EFB battery in your Fabia? Did you note the battery voltage before starting the charging with your 4-amp charger maintainer? How low is your low mileage use, how long is the car parked up (I'll assume it's always locked even if garaged)? Does your Fabia have things like 'coming home'(?), KESSY keyless entry and start, heated seat(s), others? Are you old school scrap/clear all windows or heater/blower/air-con, heated glasses on and let them do all the work? Are there any Recalls (those admit to anyway) on your car, there was a battery [ETA: management] recall on earlier cars previously (whether it was actually the battery or VW programing or other parts or components I've no idea)? Recall actions here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns My wife has a 2015 Mk3, I fitted an AGM battery to it in 2021 (and discovered the 'joy' of 'coding' such things) as my wife's Fabia does very short journeys every work day, usually only two now, and I wanted as little hassle with this car as possible (if only!!) so purchased out of want rather than need. The first time I done a preventative charge on it, forget when, using the newly purchased for the task Ring Smart (it's not) Charger & Maintainer, 4-amp, RSC804, IIRC it took 15/16 hours to get to "Ful" (full) and this was on a preventative recharge the battery wasn't that low (forget voltage reading) that the stop/start wouldn't activate. The battery is a Bosch (labelled, Varta apparently) AGM, 60Ah. I would normally use a lower amperage charger and take longer but it's not my car and it's has to be available for use at short notice for my wife's very full socialising and shopping needs which can opportunistic in mature (quality time apart from me). Of course it may not be, or have been, your battery at fault.

@Winston_Woof you've done a lot more than vast majority if not all, I wasn't trying to say you were illegal in anyway. I'm like you I really value good neighbours or at least those that aren't too bad, I grew up on council estates, one where I literally had (new) clothes stolen of the washing line, and worse, we've lived here 42 years because the neighbours on the whole are very good (even me) but things change, people move and people change. My mate done installations on commercial properties, one in the old red-light district we saw a few sights on the (time-lapse VCR in this case, digital was expensive then) recordings from there, high romance it wasn't, fast it was, even without speeding up the replay to get to the bit of recording the customer wanted but couldn't find for himself. With one of the cameras on the old office building ("national headquarters") we were able to help one of our neighbours with his car being vandalised, nowhere near the time he said, it was a neighbour of his that he'd been drink with in the club that night that damaged the car as he left the club by himself, came as a surprise to the car owner who was expecting local kids. My mate used to do a few covert installations, often for family businesses, often as simple as a hole in a cardboard box, simpler days, often it was to catch, or caught, a member of the family with their hand in the till or creating further stock shrinkage, not everything recorded or viewed is what you want to see and the people you trust or distrust turn out to be opposite. Whatever happens wherever usually there's not enough cameras, or they're at the wrong angle, field of view, lighting, cleaning, maintenance, playback quality (even if view quality looks fine), computer stuff, power, time, etc. - but apart from that they can be good sometimes. 😆 Do you stand at your windows 24/7 or 23:00 -7:00 then. I'm only joking. I'm no expert on this, or anything else, but I think you have been very reasonable and so would most people, when you get someone that isn't reasonable with you generally it doesn't matter what you've done or not done if they're determine to stick to their attitude - and I don't think any of this will affect your car insurance question. Some banks used to have some of the worst systems and camera(s) installation(s) and camera or system repairs (not that we done any of either) weren't popular in prisons, with the prisoners or some of the staff, one of the camera reps, who looked particular not from these shores, regaled us with a couple of stories of him being escorted though with the prisoners in their cells, he certainly needed his great sense of humour, it was all very nasty stuff for him to experience and to listen to but you just had to laugh with the way he told it. Some of his companies cameras were literally bomb-proof, or resistant. 😄

You seem a more than reasonable person to me and do more than most, and with your CCTV, I could pick a few holes and if you have a disgruntled neighbour or visitor they might find them and a few more that may or may not exist, you'll never please all the people and probably not all all of them all of the time, such is life. The ICO link says it all about the wooliness of it all. An old mate would know more as he's been in CCTV since the 80s mainly commercial but some domestic and one time (not) selling a government contract product which I think only ended up watching bails. I've not done any (office and monkey, monkey installation assistance) work for him for many years back but his personal office system was at pixel level detection and blocking even then, course probably not as many pixels as now but I'd guess the trickle down programs and systems might be quite reasonable cost now - or specialist only and gone up in relative price. How many garages do actually have cars in, modern cars are so big (and heavy) if they fit in the garage you need to exit the car through a sunroof. Last week I was talking with a Property Manager (or whatever they're called now) and he was complaining about a conveyer(?) enquiring about the garage at a property we were in, it's actually a plastic and glass lean-to about 5' wide with single plastic and glass domestic door, you'd struggle to get a motorbike through the door. 😄 Someone before had mentioned a garage so there must be an error in some listing somewhere but a quick look at the plans, Google Earth Street View or heaven forbid site visit would confirm the matter. Hacking the neighbour's doorbell opposite would be a waste of time as they have their door another side and inlet porch, not that I have a clue if you can as I'm not a criminal or have a criminal mind. I hope that's your grass area on no.4 picture as some people like to get an allover suntan and it's not always an over-pleasant image on your retina and eye-worm. 😆

Bugger, I missed that. 😄 Let us know their answer when you get it. 🙂

@Winston_Woof having dealt in the past with a couple of much, much less complicated boundary issues I'd say whatever agency you ask you'd possibly get different answers, and different answers from different people in any one agency, but you want to know where you stand for car insurance. This I believe will depend on the insurer, one insurer may view it differently to another, remember in the end there are two parties to the contract and neither is obliged to take the other so they will generally stick with how they have things even if another insurer sees it differently. I have experience of how different insurers react differently to the same facts, give their interpretation and stick with it even if shown their interpretation is in the very small group against the vast (almost all) majority of insurers giving an opposing view. You seem already to know and accept that many things in life aren't black or white and that with agencies not only can it be that the left hand doesn't know what the right hand is doing they can often contradict each other and everyone else, Also always bear in mind that mistakes can be made about recording things including maps, road marking and signs, etc. - not that I can know if any mistakes were made. Personally I'd not put full faith into landowners / developers / builders companies (all three can be the same company with different names or branches anyway) and conveyance / surveillance / solicitors. You could also worry about CCTV / data protection (though the Police won't as they often rely on it) and if you have a change of neighbour(s) or their behaviour or attitudes changes no matter how friendly, open and tolerant you and your other neighbours are. Your land issue(s) I think if pursued could have some in the legal profession in bottles of plonk for a good while, whereas your car insurance answer you would have each year. If you really wanted you could send the insurer or potential insurer all the details. plans and photos you've put up here for them to make a decision, not that I think they'd be really interested or bothered to do much checking. If you got anything in writing from say the council to say it's a driveway whether that is right or wrong I bet the insurer would accept it - but of course I could be wrong and of course as you know council get stuff wrong and have incorrect mapping and details even in these days of "everything being on computers" (it's not). 🙂

If you have access to an appropriate reasonable level scan tool for VWs getting a report from it would probably be helpful. There are owners on here who may be able to do that for you for possibly beer tokens. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) And as already put a check of the battery and alternator is an and/or to above, though a report may already point towards sources of issue(s). The alternator can be very variable with output because of it's design and battery charging system so more careful testing of that is required but a simple battery check with a multimeter directly on to the battery terminals a good number of hours after the car was last run will give an idea if the battery is in a very low state charge (allowing for if you've unlocked the car and it's computer systems are awake and taking some power doing their things).

I don't know about your model and year but I was very disappointed in the front dampers on my wife's 2015 Fabia as they had to be replaced as a distress purchase on a Dealership MoT at 41k-miles (6 years) and I've seen other Fabia MK3 owners put early replacements of front dampers. A mate's 28 year old Toyota is still on factory fitted dampers all round. To make matters worse the next year's service was done at an independent garage that dealt with VWs among other marques and they told me the front dampers were leaking and would fail an MoT (that they would have done at another place across the road). As the Dealership supplied and fitted dampers had a two-year warranty I contacted them to get the replacements to fit and MoT my wife's car. On the day the Dealership rang my wife to say the dampers didn't need replacing as they were only misting and this is acceptable. They didn't even list it as an Advisory on the MoT they done. I'd never heard of misting dampers so a bit of research and I found it listed as an Advisory on a MoT I found on the web (though I forget the details now). So if you've not asked other 2019, 1.5 TSI Karoq owners about this perhaps it might influence your decision about the dampers - or the VWSkoda dampers have improved or weren't/aren't so poor on your model and year.