nta16

toot, I'm not a fan of space savers especially as most (all?) cars now have oversized wheels and tyres so often the spacer saver tyre is so narrow compared to the standard wheels I think often they're barely suitable to get you to the next place of safety let alone home or as some do use them for a lot longer after fitting. I would remove a space saver from a boot as the extra room in the boots I had was of much more use that a tyre to get me a short distance and removing it and the wheel changing kit also saved a bit of weight for me to have a bigger snack. Many years back now I sold a 25 year old unused spare wheel and tyre once and latter the person bought the car off me (and really done it up well and used and showed it). And you have reminded me I still have a, full sized, spare in the shed, 3.5" steel wheel with a very good 145/80 r13 tyre, must get shot of that. I had a Mk2 MX-5 when they were new, the 1.6 so only about 100hp that had a space saver that I fitted and even on the front just driving normally through town at 30mph and less I could feel the difference on breaking and I had the standard steel wheels on that (the only MX-5 the Dealership had ever seen remain on its steel wheels, that rusted first winter but had a 3-year warranty so I didn't care) and normally sized tyres. The tyres were Yoko and too good for fun so I swapped them (in the days when I could afford to do such) for tyres with less dry grip but more wet grip. You might like this, forget the editing of facts, I don't know if the spare wheel was put on this or remained on the Laser, the car was in much better condition than when I passed it on and another turn of the odometer since with certainly the last I heard and saw it, before Covid, in daily use still and kept to show standard. - https://www.adrianflux.co.uk/influx/features/legend-ford-capri/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The full sized spare tyre should be used but it would be best if it matches the tyre on the other side. I think it's a total waste to have a full sized tyre sitting unused in the boot for 6 years, if you rotate its use with the other four you even overall wear of the tyres and stand more chance that the spare tyre is the same make/model and (nearer) wear as the other four, depending on how and when you change tyres. For decades I didn't carry a spare in many of my cars, just a manual foot pump and a reliable pressure gauge, this seemed to scare and offend some which made me wonder how well they looked after their cars and treated their wheels and tyres, perhaps running them to the very last fraction of a millimetre to the legal limit. But as always each to their own and different strokes for different folks. Personally I have always been able to run on "summer" tyres but that is my choice I am aware of the effects of ambient and road temperatures on them and generally drive where extremes are not that frequent so again different strokes for different folks and each to their own.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I saw a couple of 2CVs on the road on separate occasions quite recently. I fondly remember in the later 1970s being taken to a country village pump as a passenger, four up flying round the Daventry roundabouts in the evening fog, first roundabout I wondered if we would make it there but by the second I knew we would. Makes you appreciate the fun rather than the ego dials. I do not think R_Blue would have a chance to on the road he was on and once the momentum was dropped it would take a lot to build it again hence the truck driver's annoyance. I initially thought the road might be in the UK but it's not and its' a dual-carriageway.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The calculator I have was set up by someone else and I do not know how the figures are rounded up or down but it has proved near enough when I have used it before. I got a bit mixed up converting the mph to kph but think I was right in the end. I forgot to put what the figures in brackets were for others. With that we are agreeing, not to do as the Felica guy. As for the Polo guy he annoyed me half a dozen times within the first two minutes so I skipped through the video. Again we are agreeing, I do think that is labouring the engine, and you missed the word if in quoting I understand what you were getting at by this but think you have misunderstood the general thrust of my posts as I am not always the best at writing and explaining. I tend to present and sometimes give information from elsewhere, even if it disagrees with my thoughts, so that others can make up their own minds if they have not already done so before. As the gearing is not great for this road I think R_Blue wants to perhaps vary the way he drives up it as well as check that his car is performing as well as it could or should. I know it is very difficult to know how well his car is going if he is unable to drive another same model, that is in good running order, or if someone who has one or knows them very well drives R-Blue's car. ETA: Not carrying unnecessary additional weight always helps such as heavy tools and spare parts that are never used or should not be required, some people need to tow a trailer to carry all the just-in-case spare parts and components they want to because once in 40 years of driving this or that part failed or played up, I would have needed to tow another complete running car for all the possibilities I have had. Once had an electrical fuse that was internment, seen a couple of intermittent incandescent bulbs and far too much other stuff for me to remember plus all the one-offs I have heard about. I prefer prevent to cure, I have had enough (minor) roadside repairs to last me two lifetimes I do need need any more or consider them "fun" or "part of the adventure" of old car ownership. Having driven "classics" (over-priced and over-valued old cars) for 30+ years as dallies I know that those new to the models will have very little idea, or wrong information on how well they could or should go and they only real way to experience this is to drive a good running example, which often is not the cleanest shiniest examples. And even if you know the model and drive it daily someone else driving the car can pick up on things that you have missed or got used to and driving similar models or cars can highlight the good and not so good or bad with your car. Unlike the Polo guy at least have the car properly running and prepared for any testing.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If they would fit my choice for comfort and our third-world roads (thank you wealthy bankers pensions) would be 14" wheels, as well as potholes there's kerbing, but I don't know how popular the 14" tyres sizes are, which give choice and value. Even with the 15" tyres (185/60 r15 on my wife's car) you need careful selection if you want good comfort, noise and handling, running at eco setting of 35 psi definitely reduces the rolling resistance so presumably helps with mpg but it also makes things a crashy and reduces comfort, noise and handling, we stick to the 30 psi now on more comfortable tyres but we won't see great mileage out of them but I'm used to that. I won't give you a thank you for 16" wheels as I'm not into fashion or filling the wheel arches I prefer the extra room for suspension travel, mud and snow (fortunately I've always been able to use "summer" tyres all year round).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. The trick is to charge the battery before the start/stop packs in and fully recharge the battery as soon as the start/stop, er, stops often this will require more than just driving the vehicle but the use of a suitable battery charger left on long enough to fully charge the battery not just a wham, bam, thank you mam. 😄 Perhaps you could have got longer (or even lot longer) out of all three batteries by recharging them sooner. 😉 😄 I know it's not always convenient to do the job properly. I wanted to recharge the 18 month old AGM battery on my wife's car this weekend because it does lots of very short journeys, is always parked outside (we're not wealthy enough to have a garage just hard-luck standing) and it's -1.7c now and IIRC we've seen -13c (without wind chill factor) before. If it doesn't need much it doesn't matter as my latest (and newest by 20+ years) charger is also a maintainer, has a winter setting and works to -20c and is IP65 (£23.49) so it can work outside. My wife is keen to get it done as only this week she had to use the keyblade to get into the car as the remote battery died and this set the car alarm off and she'd forgotten the procedure to get over this - get the key in ignition and switched on quick! But then I forgot and set the alarm off when synchronising the remote after battery change and forgot you had to pull and hold the handle to get the keyblade to operate properly as I didn't follow my own advice and RtFM because I was being a Billy-big-b*ll*cks that thought he already knew. 😜 But wot a palaver VW want to put owners through and they say the German don't have sense of humour. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I did not realise your road was all dual-carriageway I would be very bored with that after a 5 or 10 mile blast I like roads not much wider than a narrow car. I do not know the rounding of numbers in the calculator I have but on your ratios with 165/70/13 tyres it comes out with (if(?) I have input correctly and converted mph to kph correctly). ETA: the figures in the brackets are from the gear change. - 3rd - 3,000 / 58 kph - (1,987 / 38 kph) 4th - 3,000 / 80 kph - (2,195 / 58 kph) 5th - 3,000 / 102 kph - (2,320 / 80 kph) 3rd - 4,000 / 80 kph - (2,649 / 53 kph) 4th - 4,000 / 93 kph - (2,927 / 80 kph) 5th - 4,000 / 141 kph - (3094 / 93 kph) 3rd - 5,000 / 100 kph - (3,312 / 66 kph) 4th - 5,000 / 137 kph - (3,658 / 100 kph) 5th - 5,000 / 177 kph - (3,867 / 137 kph) If you think of 3,250 -5,000 rpm being the powerband, and it might not be with your car, and if my figures are correct you will see only about 5,000 rpm in 2nd, 3rd and 4th will get you in the band on these figures. You do not have a racing gearbox or racing gearing so if you drive like that Felica guy you will be putting additional stress and wear on tour engine and transmission. Same for changing up just before the rev limiter, do you even have a rev limiter other than yourself, is your car capable of being pushed to the 5,000 rpm let alone more without regret. A test on a level empty open road is fine but be sure what your car's limits are first, top fuel dragsters can go to 161 kph in 0.8 second but the engine is completely stripped down and built back up every 1/4 mile (400m) run and the gearbox, clutch and fuel are slightly different and even then they often break. You do not need an oil gauge, you may want one but that is a different matter, it may help you or just give you more to worry about. If the engine is NOT being laboured then 3,000 rpm all day long is fine but if you feel losses it can be because of other than or as well as engine oil, this is why I prefer a good quality oil in an oil car, a synthetic oil will offer more protection and for longer and deal with the heat (and cold) better generally but it can't make up for any engine issues (well perhaps a very little by allowing a limp home rather than roadside stop(s). What is synthetic and what is 'synthetic' as a marketing term is a different matter, but a good oil is a good oil whatever it is or called. For the gearbox with how you are driving the car and want to if you like Castrol this might be a better oil for you, Castrol TRANSMAX Manual Transaxle fully synthetic that's suitable for you but also as with the engine oil change the thotoughness of the change is important. It was the 123ignition fully electronic dissy that I was referring to, I had the basic what they now call "switch", another Renault "switch" might include curves suitable to your car but you would have to enquire and note the LPG. -https://123ignition.com/products/page/2/?filter_brand=renault The cost of it must be considered as spread over time and mileage and the improvements you could get (starting, idling, throughout the rev range, no farting about with points or messing around with timing once properly set). Well that's enough for one night, if you can get a 75w-90 the 90 should be better at high temperatures particular a good 75w-90.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks, even I (ought to) know this sort of stuff (I'm reminded when I watch the burly truck drivers with their big rigs) I didn't think the multiplier out fully, well maths (with a 's') and thinking are not my strong points.

@Gabbo 500m instead of varoom's 100m, tut, just goes to show how much you abuse that poor battery. 🙃 Some will say if you haven't 'coded' the battery in the car could be overcharging it because the car doesn't know it is a new battery and the life of your battery will be shorten, I did not have the new battery 'coded' straight away but the battery is only about 18 months old so I have no proof, either way. For your new battery when needed hopefully with your experience you will recharge the new battery sooner than later. I would get a scan done to remove any historical codes as I don't trust the over-complex VW computer programs, at the same time as having the battery coded in but I would not lose sleep over it in the meantime, but that's me. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Blimey are you a fan/discipline of the likes of Novaxz Joke-a-blitz, some very minor health problems for a few people and less minor for a very few others. If owners actually feed their pets suitable food there would be much less hair loss for the majority of pets. At least this type of stuff you can see the sh!te that comes out of our car exhaust is among the ****e that's less visible (unless it's a VW , Audi diesel) sh1te that is doing a lot more harm to those on the roads and pavements and quite a distance from them too. If anyone needs or wants more protection for whatever they think they need that's fine, different strokes for different folks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 5mm for fronts then they're probably not that old but it doesn't pay to assume on things like this, have a look for the date of manufacture on them. That doesn't always directly related to when they were fitted of course and tread depth is only one element and the tyres could have had a hard life bumping up and down kerbs, humps potholes. Personally if they're similar to the concrete rears I'd swap out for a new set of four better tyres especially if I was doing a couple miles of motorway a week, but that's just me.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Could it be the injectors? Any other information taken from a scan tool with engine running? Do you do a lot of short or low speed journeys? Is the 50% chance of starter motor a guess from someone or from any sort of diagnosis?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. At 6 years and 44,000 the rear tyres must have been on the rear all the time. 4mm of tread is a good depth but the tyres are 6 years old and done 44,000 miles. If you change them, once you have them passed the 100 miles run-in (200 miles if wet) and can fully use them you may well notice a difference to the tyres with 44,0000 miles on them. Check the torque tightness of the wheel (stupid) bolts after 30-50miles. I can't remember getting anything like a possible 40,000 miles out of tyres since the 1970s they must be like concrete. The date might be on the other side of the tyre. In the photos your tyres don't look anywhere near as bad as my neighbour's 3 year old Chinese tyres but to me there's cracking. What are your front tyres like, if they're cracked or at 3mm or below I'd change all four tyres then once you have them passed the 100 miles run-in (200 miles if wet) and can fully use them you will notice a difference to the braking, road holding, handling and probably comfort and noise, tyres are a much underrated important component on vehicles. Check the torque tightness of the wheel (bl**dy stupid) bolts after 30-50miles. 😁

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Could it be the remote keyfob battery needs changing? Check your Owner's Manual and see if the remote needs synchronising after changing the battery as it does on the Mk3 where there is a procedure to follow to do this almost left leg in left leg out, have the door handle pulled and held, putting the key in the right way round, turning the key the right way, have the alarm go of, stand on one leg and point north, put your left leg in, left leg out . . . refer to Owner's Manual for exact details. Perhaps with a 2011 car it's a bit easier to change a remote battery successfully. Of course just because a car (12v) battery is only a few months old doesn't mean it can't be depleted as it's just a store, like a bank account some people can empty a battery a lot quicker than others. 🙂 Didn't want to disappoint my fans. 😆

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I thought there might be a typo, 180 bhp with 456nm (336 ft lb in old money.(?)

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You have misremembered this bit, see my first reply post with extracts from the 2017/5 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Pressing the unlock button might stop the alarm going off but I don't know as the Owner's Manual (2017/5) has that the alarm goes off when you use the keyblade in the driver's door lock. And on opening the door with the keyblade I'd forgot you have to pull and hold the handle ignoring my own advice of referring to the Owner's Manual (or RtFM). 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Fair enough. But what are you going to wear when outside of the car's cabin. If you want one then get one, perhaps someone might see the thread who has one and reply but I think the odds are not good, be good if I am proven wrong (again). Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If only my fingers could work my brain, they're about the same size, this is why I turn off left when instructed to look out for the next right turn by my (human) navigator.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Never seen the like, I guess they would not be much use in a soft-top with the roof down or tin-top with a window(s) open. Philips is a well known name but how much are the filters, TelslaAir better with cleanable filters but another box with a wire out of it and what secures it to the dash - oh that is covered in the second video, I am amazed an American has not sued them. Sharp another well known name. Unless it can dealt with the black sh1te that comes out of VWs, particularly Audi, diesels I would not bother personally. In the early 80s ionizers of that size were the thing then, put by the bedside. If you have struggled without one then get one and see.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Might be a combination of batteries and use as some seem to report more frequent changes than others and some prefer certain makes and say they last longer. The battery I replaced recently in my wife's remote was from a set from a £1-shop type place and lasted at least a few years possibly/probably longer, the missing Covid years makes things more difficult to date, but the expiry date on a that pack was "Dec 2020". In November this year my wife got a pack of Hyundai, two times of each 2032, 2025 and 2016 "best before 30-04-23". We are swimming in 2016s as we don't seem to have any use for that size and other cards with sizes we don't use it's such a waste, and to make things more fun the same batteries have three different code numbers. BTW - 2032 (typo) 2025 is 20mm wide by 2.5mm deep, I'll leave you to guess the other two sizes. 😁 Let us know how you get on, I always synchronise things like remote key fobs whether they appear to need it or not, just in case they might play up later and this time I discovered my wife was right and the 'emergency' driver's door keyblade lock was a bit awkward, apart from remember to put the key in the correct way and turn the key opposite way to expected, perhaps the lack of use and airborne grit/**** that's about. A quick spray of GT85 sorted the keyblade lock.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. This is the measure many people use but it isn't always a particular good one for modern cars particularly the more modern as the computers can by this time start to throw up unexpected issues but often they can be placated and the battery life can be extended by the use of an appropriate battery charger, given enough time for it to do the job properly. The car batteries now are far from "starter batteries" use. Did you see any/many error codes on the Carista when 'coding the battery?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Can you warm the general area of the lock and boot panel and try locking, unlocking with the key blade in the lock and also with the remote.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Best not to to view the second key as a spare key but as a second key and alternate the use of the keys on the vehicle in what ever way or time interval suits you that way you get more even wear of the batteries, keyblades and locks. Does the red light flash on the remotes when pressed? I always start with the quick, easy and free stuff (and anything that keeps my hands clean), first check both batteries are good and installed correctly. Then I would try synchronising both fobs. From 2017/5 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models I would be very close to the car before operating the remote to reduce chance of interference, does this happen at one location only or everywhere? Any other lights or dash warnings or other things not quite right? HTH.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. R_Blue, I hope you realise that I was never suggesting scream up the 10% incline at 5,000rpm in any gear let alone 5th. Again I have no idea about Thefeliciahacker's maths but you give a real life example that proves his conclusion. Generally you need to carry as much momentum, speed, as possible, sensible and appropriate before the incline starts, as with bends and turns you prepare before to take the event as best as possible, sensible and appropriate. You may be in 4th gear already but what ever gear you need to change down when the engine slows down a bit. It depends on the incline on the gears that are changed, on a incline that is a regular steepness over a sustained length then you may need more gear changes or if there a sudden steepness you might need to drop two gears missing the intermediate gear, say 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd. The trick is to change gear before the engine steep drops too much, to anticipate the need. The gearbox is in the car to be used by the driver. Less powerful or (over) heavy or loaded cars will need more input in these situations than more powerful or lighter or less loaded cars. With regard your opening post the truck driver shouldn't be up your tailpipe and flashing his lights, a camera in the rear window would probably dissuade him but perhaps you should have dropped to 4th earlier or also dropped to 3rd but I do not know the road incline or your gear ratios and speeds. Find your actual gear ratios and I am sure Thefeliciahacker could use his maths skills and knowledge to give you some figures for your model as new (claimed figures). How long in distance was this 10% incline?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thefeliciahacker, I have no idea about the maths but the thread has a real life example of the proof of your conclusion. 😄