nta16

Personally I'd just check the clamps (especially if s/s) after a couple of heat cycles. Doesn't apply here as the OD would be within the range of the clamps but personally I have found if the OD is at an extreme of the clip's range they're not a reliable as an exhaust clamp.

Oh well, you're much further ahead of me, loose battery post clamp just an oversight (hopefully not ignoring the very basics or not RtFM as is the won't of many electricians I've met). For latter cars the VCDS looks horrible presentation to me but suits other people, other scanners might give better presentation and easier to scroll through other readings and make comparisons but that's another conversation and not relevant now. I have a security device, it's a choke pull cable. Leave it with you and hope to see your write up of how it was sorted soon.

The info you get off a scanner for a 2006 car is a lot less than later cars but all years errors don't always show with codes, the driver can see, hear, smell and feel when things aren't quite right beyond and before a scanner. Some here don't like my description but the computers can play up in all sorts of ways if the battery power or supply is low to them, they don't have a lot so to lose little makes a big difference to them, poor connections and wires of course can also be a cause. Certainly battery power which is why I bang on about it (apart from the battery always being important for power supply to the rest of the car, my car has not a single computer other than the very intermittent biological nut behind the wheel). I was also thinking of your remote locking issue, whether that might be related to 'battery' issues. Your power steering may well have other issues but a good electric supply to it and all the computers will help and poor may well hinder and ScottB832's similar problem hasn't been ruled out as electrical yet. sepulchrave posted about angle sensor, can that be checked (again when it and the computer get fully power and signal/communication). Hope you get it sorted and remote locking.

None of this sounds good. Burning smell might be that rear brake which is bad as reasonably working brakes are always the number one priority on a car. It might also be something else. Brake pads getting hot have a certain smell (beyond me to describe). As I think roottoot put earlier a full check of the car might be in order as any garage that doesn't take care with brakes and check them possibly doesn't take care with much else.

People often might find a lot of things with the vehicle can get better or even repaired by having good, clean, secure battery connections, even electro/mechanical service engineers. 😉 😄 Being serious this might not sort or fully sort the particular issues but it will certainly help.

Well done on finding it, and thanks for reporting back. Too many people take the error code as the solution rather than as a starting point for diagnosis, often shooting the messenger by replacing the part that reports the error code instead of investigating further. Sorting the wire on the connector is the repair but also cleaning the MAF (if required) could be preventative maintenance in the same way as changing the air filter and engine oil & filter. You now know how to treat many error codes you can get. Good luck.

@R_Bluefrom the way that video looked you were driving too fast and too close to the van in front for the very wet conditions. Being further back you could better see when the van went into deeper water and also not be affected so much from the water disturbance the vehicle in front makes and bear in mind the van sits higher than your car and engine bay. You don't want to get stuck behind or with a driver's vehicle that doesn't know what they're doing and/or doesn't exercise enough caution for the prevailing conditions, moderns drivers don't adjust enough, often not slowing down, as they think the vehicle will cope the same in most conditions. We all make (many) mistakes but when you can try not to be too much of a modern non-thinking driver.

I don't know about the percentages, I've never seen such a print out perhaps it's a matter of course for Police vehicles and the garage is just in the habit. I was wondering that for brakes and tyres with tyres being an important component of of brakes, steering, suspension and handling and ride comfort and noise. With one year old discs and pads (front only I assume) I would expect reasonable braking, subject to mileage and condition of the rest of the braking system and tyres. I note 62% seems to relate to pedal efficiency(?), the MoT has - "M1 vehicles [passenger cars] having a service brake operating on at least 4 wheels and which were first used: - on or after 1 September 2010 - 58%" which maybe a different thing, but I don't know.

ETA 2: Sorry mrspatch I should have pasted this in first post. - "Engine number The engine number (three-digit code letter and serial number) is stamped onto the engine block."

Sorry I only know what's in the (good) book - "Engine number The engine number (three-digit code letter and serial number) is stamped onto the engine block." I avoid going into the engine bay of a diesel even more than a petrol as it's usually a very dirty business.

mrspatch if you read and when necessary (as now) refer to your Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) you'll know more about your car than many long term owners. If you've not got a paper printed copy you can download a pdf copy from the link that follows. Have a look at the 'Technical data' section for details of the vehicle data sticker, which - " is located on the base of the luggage compartment and is also stuck inside the service schedule." ETA 2: Sorry I should have put this bit here - "Engine number The engine number (three-digit code letter and serial number) is stamped onto the engine block." (ETA: page 192 in my wife's 05/2015 copy) https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models HTH.

Not so much with junk tyres. 😁 I wasn't being entirely serious just seeing if there might be further information. Don't get too over-confident because it's an AWD as you've discovered it still rides on four small patches of 'rubber'. It maybe that the vehicle was standing a lot on those tyres rather than being used which can also age the tyres. The TWI (tread wear indicator) bar in the tread isn't showing in your photo so the tyres may not of had too much mileage and/or they are very hard wearing, in other conditions. Tyres are a very important and complicated component on a vehicle which are often overlooked yet they're part of the brakes, steering and suspension and affect the handling, ride comfort and noise so quality is important. Hopefully you'll have better luck with your next set.

I'm not a big fan of tyre review summaries, you need to read individual reviews to see how relevant they are to your circumstances and needs and note the review dates, tyres have changed a lot even in the last few years. - https://www.tyrereviews.com/Tyres_For/Skoda/Octavia-Scout.htm 60 miles with 68mph on some of the very hot days we've had might affect some tyres, once the damage is done it's done. Some roads including bits of motorway seem to have some rough chippings type surfaces which I've found more noticeable on more recent tyres. Are there any other things you can think of that might have contributed - you carry heavy loads, like drifting, having lower tyre pressures, like skidding to a stop, have you lent the car to any younger members of the family or friends, work colleges.

The oil could be coming from elsewhere and that is just where you see it. You could thoroughly clean around the area and then see if a fresh trail emerges or add dye to your oil and see that and perhaps other weeps and leaks. On my engine it would probably be from the rocker cover gasket, only once did that not leak and I don't know how or why that was. Others will have more and better suggestions than me.

Perhaps someone knows why but it's not me, perhaps they needed to do more to make their other marques better for the price differences,. or it was just forgotten or mislaid, never under-estimate the incompetencies of a large organisation.

I was pretty sure I knew the answer but still wanted to check - no it does not have one-touch wind up/down, and I don't think it has anything to do with the model level, of SE.

Apparently so. I think there's so much other over-complicated, intrusive and intertwined computer programing on the car there was no room left for those functions, or perhaps it was deleted as it was somehow tied up with emissions cheating. 😁 I can't remember for sure as it's not my car and I'm so used to wind up windows, I'll check later tonight when the car returns.

Sorry I should have put 2015 Fabia Mk3, you definitely need the ignition on to operate the electric windows I can assure you of this as it annoys me every time I've not got the key with me. I often just lower the rear windows as they operate by a plastic hand crank handles. See extract from the Driver's Handbook (Owner's Manual) below for conformation. Her previous car you could hold the lock button on the remote and the electric windows would close - but I don't know I've ever had or thought about a car where you can lower the windows with a button on the remote. I wasn't being too serious with my post and I'm sure if Neilswheels wants electric windows and mirrors he'll take no notice of my post but I do wonder if fitting them might involve some extra work and wiring - but wouldn't know - I would thoroughly test the mirrors, motors and switches before starting though.

Why bother, more to wire up and more to go wrong, how often do you adjust door mirrors and you can probably wind the passenger window from the driver's seat. It annoys me that I need the keys and ignition on to lower or raise the windows on my wife's Fabia, my car I just open one door and do both windows, no farting about having to get the keys, or getting into a hot cabin. All that extra weight to loose power and mpg on, and the drain on the battery and making the alternator work harder and wear out quicker. 😉

Thanks, I thought it might be but wasn't sure. @R_Blueyou should be removing this on coolant changes to empty the block of existing residue and perhaps picking out any crud there from draining the coolant and when cleaning and flush draining, I don't know about this engine but some engines can have a lot of silt and crud there, better out than in.

According to the Owner's Manual they're separate, check your copy of the Owner's Manual, if you've not got a paper copy you can download a pdf copy from the following link. - dashboard fusebox, fuse 42, Power windows - front passenger. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Ken, I'm claiming nothing, I'm only stating what happened, I'm not trying to sell you or anyone else some sort of religion or religious experience, take it or leave it or dispute it if you want that's fine. I don't remember now details of what stage of servicing the car was at, it was only serviced once a year but being a GM Vauxhall needed other work doing at various times but as it was my wife's car she dealt with it all and I never touched it other than driver's checks and I rarely drove it. If anything else had any influence I don't know but I wasn't aware of anything, perhaps there was something else which just made it a coincidence. I'm not suggest one tankful with sort a car especially one that's pushing out above average sh1te. Personally I'd throw in a tankful before and after a service, or MoT perhaps, or a good proper long blowout run to somewhere. I wouldn't use it in total isolation, often when I drove my wife's car I gave it blow-out or Italian tune-up runs, she said the car 'felt better' after I'd driven it but she's not an engineer so might have been suffering from placebo - it certainly wasn't said to please me, we'd already been together far too many decades for that. 😄 A bit more detail for you, if you want it, if not ignore it. The car was a 2008 GM Vauxhall 1.3 CDTI and this would have happened 10+ years ago. I rarely drove my wife's car but on one occasion I had to nip out and get round a small roundabout quick-ish and when all the wheels were straight I pushed the right pedal further. The roundabout was about a mile or so from home, 'cold' start, 30mph roads with road just prior to roundabout 20mph zone with high humps slows to crawl. as I left the roundabout I looked in the mirror and saw a thick cloud of black sh1te as I now see from many particularly Audi diesels. Another time after I'd filled IIRC Shell V-power diesel (or whatever other marketing name it had then) I decided to do the same again and see how black the cloud was this time and to my surprise it was light grey. I think I repeated the experiment another time but I can't remember now, I certainly tried to avoid getting black clouds as it was a drop-top and I've also been a cyclist and also remain a pedestrian so are well aware of how the black cloud of sh1te are for others. DO bear in mind I drive a vehicle from the 1970s so I am well aware it puts out sh1te too - never black clouds though, or even blue hopefully but I can taste the choke. We don't have a diesel now to try to repeat this but I'd happily try it with yours, I shouldn't need more than 2nd gear, let me know when your in Northampton next. 😉

@roottoot does the following link cover this or is the page just more of a PR exercise? - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-actions

Easiest and probably most accurate information is to read, and when required refer to, the Driver's Handbook (Owners Manual), if you do this you could know more about the car than some long term owners. If you haven't got the printed paper copy then you can download a pdf copy from the following link. It's not always in the best English but it will tell you about your car, Dr Google can often throw up errors and misunderstandings. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Again read the Owner's Manual and you'll find exactly what it is and how to set it, it sounds to me as possibly someone else has set this this and you've not turned off or altered their setting. Driving using cruise control or automatic cruise control isn't always the most economical way to drive sometimes a driver might do better. Remapping might be more fashionable than productive, timely servicing, maintenance and repairs are the best form of tuning for the whole car (and not just the engine) and really must be done before any further tuning will be fully effective. You can't fully progress unless the basic foundations of timely servicing, maintenance and repairs have properly fully been dealt with. Another good tuning process for any vehicle is driver training, and it's mostly transferable to other vehicles. Most men have too much ego to think of further driving training. As you know cars are dirty things but diesel is particularly dirty so you want to keep things as clean as reasonably possible for the car to run well and last well. As with computers GIGO (garbage in garbage out) with cars SISO so you want as clean as possible going in. This is from having a good air filter condition, perhaps occasionally using the more expensive Premium diesel fuels which offer additional lubrication and cleaning agents and to have timely changes of engine oil and filter. My wife's previous car was a diesel, our one and only, the very few times I refuelled it I put in the more expensive cleaner fuel and when I floored it from low revs off a roundabout I'd see a big grey cloud in the rearview mirror instead of a big thick black cloud of **** with ordinary diesel fuel so I follow my experience rather than what others tell me. Even using this as the car done a lot of short journeys it still needed good long runs on motorway/dual/fast A-roads to give it clear out runs. Sustained higher speeds/revs than usual. If you're worried about mpg do remember to give some latitude to the mpg dash readout figures especially as you're driving along. Confirm the car's figures for tank refill by how many miles since the previous fill (subject to both being to a full tank, first click of the station fuel pump) divided by how many litres it takes to refill the tank. If you want mpg divide the litres by 4.546 to get the number of gallons (4.546 litres to one UK gallon). Good luck.

Poor servicing and something like a brake catching or poorly exhaust will lower mpg but I've obviously no idea if this applies to your car. High revs in itself is not productive, full servicing and maintenance of the whole car and not just an engine oil and filter change is required for best running and mpg. Lack of use from the previous owners often means there's more for you to do to make up for this. I'm used to petrol cars 20-50 years old although were had a few brand new cars the last was in 2008 (and our first and only diesel) so my wife having bought this new Fabia s/h it brought so good modern surprises and some PITA modern surprises. What you may be thinking of is some sort of anti-stall programing but I'm no expert, in anything. The basics of the car remain the same (ancient) only the ever progressing computer programs change things much.