Paws4Thot

It sounds likely. Try Turner Tune or Bosch Diesel (branches of both are available locally), and ask them to check the cold resistance and draw of the glow plugs (may need the car for a week depending on how fast they can work on each cylinder since it needs to lie until dead cold after every start).

No, don't do it; don't buy a Cashcow!

Read the policy carefully, particularly fields that contain info you supplied. Only if those fields are wrong is there something that even potentially invalidates the contract.

Note comments inline, italic on extra range offered.

I think you'll find that running into something you didn't see because your headlights were dirty makes more of a mess of your bonnet, and it will take longer to fix than washing the car does.

No problem. You've described exactly the symptoms and cure. The issue is that the dip headlight (but not the full beam) contacts burn out over time (measured in years).

I don't think she's even posted in the last 3 years.

I suppose I'm lucky there; no-one in this house wants to watch Bartenders, 'emeroidale or Horrornation Street.

I think the deadlock must be set. So, is the inner door skin bolted or pop-riveted to the frame?

It would on an Octavia 1 diesel, because there was an overrun cutoff that worked when the car was in gear and revving over about 1_200, but when it was in neutral it was injecting idle fuel.

It's probably a failure in the dip switch which will require a new LH switch unit to rectify.

No. It's likely to be one of the wiring, the stator (sensor) and the rotor (chopper disc). All 3 can be checked without use of the parts cannon. As, indeed, can the wheel bearing.

I'd go for annual oil changes then, because the degradation rate of the oil is highest when the engine is warming up.

!? The first time I ever drove a car registered to me in snow, I was in Kent.

It could be, or it could be a CANBus issue? One of my neighbours had their RH DRL strobing for about 2 years before the dealer found the issue.

You're describing the headlight switch. The dip switch is the one that swaps between dip and main beam, flashes the headlights and works the indicators.

Which is more likely to be from the pads than the discs.

Jack up steering wheel Remove Octavia Insert non-VAG petrol engine car Lower steering wheel. Point taken?

I had similar symptoms with mine(mk1). It needed a new dip switch.

Einsteinian relativity shows us that higher velocity makes cars (and anything else) heavier; logically therefore electric cars must have "heavying acceleration" if the accelerate faster...

@Vinay2x7x No idea, but I do know that fault interpretation depends on which gearbox (code number, not just text narrative) you have.

I'd change the entire belt kit, and the water pump. Neither the belt tensioner nor the water pump usually survives that mileage, and you need to change the belt to change either of them...

Meh...

@Apollyon001 Firstly, the available range mode is biased by what you achieved on the last fill, and on recent miles. For example, I would normally have used my car for a commute of about 11 miles, the last half mile being up a steep hill. I would occasionally make a trip that involved most of the commute, and then another 9 miles of more or less level roads. I would invariably reach the destination on those trips (less than one trip per tank of fuel) showing a greater available range than I left my house with. As @Stonekeeper implies, the only reliable MPG figures are those derived from distance covered / fuel volume used data over preferably several complete tanks of of fuel...

You are arguing with one of the 10 members I have blocked, just saying...