Blue8793841

It's luck of the draw sometimes, there are fitters, technicians and master techs. All depends who works on your car and if they even care about doing things correctly. I don't know what the Vag dealerships are like but at my place I wouldn't let some of the guys work on a lawnmower.

That's strange, but new parts can be bad too! It can cause a major headache when you think you have ruled something out and the new part is at fault.

I downloaded everything I needes and a bit more 😁👌didn't know if I was doing something wrong with the service history or not, a lot of cars have locks on them now so you cant acces stuff.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P068A/001674#:~:text=Performance Too Early-,P068A%2F001674 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit%3A,De-Energized Performance Too Early

Have you fitted a good quality bulb to start with?

Any tips on using Erwin to view service history? Do you need to set a start and end date and generate a report? I had a quick go while downloading some data but didn't get anything from the service history.

Any idea how long the plugs had been in for? Were they torqued correctly for the brand of plug? These engines seem to be a lot harsher on plugs than days gone. Usually change them around 40k whereas older engines used to last 60k.

Might have the rest for his own service when it's due if you know what I mean.

No I'm not a technician at any VAG dealership. We don't know if he's referring to the catalyst pre heat or not.

We don't know what exactly the noise is. We have nothing to go by. If the op could upload a video then there might be a chance we can help diagnose the problem.

How do you know he put 5 litres in? A lot of the time guys don't wait untill the oil is fully drained or do the oil filter last (which drains some oil back to the sump) and put the sump bolt back in. Even if they put the specified 4.3 litres say they are adding too much oil.

Did you notice the dipstick is also cracked?

Easiest way would be to get a thin tube and suck it out of the dipstick, a lot less hassle than the other options. I usually use extraction pump or brake bleeder works nicely if you get oil warm.

Modern engines are like that, gone are the day of the old cast iron blocks. I remember my diesel uses to take about 20 minutes to get to 90.

To be honest I work at a dealer and pretty much every TSI we have in has a rattle at idle for between 5-30 seconds maybe. I've just though it was normal. Cars from 10k to 100k. But if it has suddenly appeared then maybe it would be worth investigating.

I wonder if it was just a faulty batch? Lots of fake chinesium ones going about these days.

Hi please can anyone recommend some registration plate holders and low profile screws/bolts for the rear as I don't want to drill the tailgate. Thanks.

The op car does.

So the whine you think is the oil pump? Or lack of oil pressure to some engine part causing the whine?

What happened to the modern day man? Unless your over 60 or have some form of injury a wheel replacement should be a walk in the park. Yes.

I'd look for another dealer or a decent mechanic, they should have spotted the leak. Now you have possibly caused damage to the engine overheating it and losing coolant. I'd also recommend you replace the coolant tank for the modified version without the silkat bag inside.

You just look at the holes, position the wheel the same, fit wheel and fit bolt nothing hard about that. There's a pretty big lip on the drive flange it's not french. Maybe your not macho enough to hold the wheel in place?

Alignment tool? What happened to just holding the wheel up and screwing a bolt in? 🤔

What's DCC and what is the difference between sport and normal?

If anyone is interested you can get 4 Bosch spark plugs for £36.71 on eBay.