Jack25

You're welcome, I will look for the wiring for the central lockon via keyfob, however in the picture there is the difference btween prefacelift (left) and facelift (right)

Go for a mk2 FL whit esp an tcs, and maybe for pace of mind even curtains airbag (they're optional), it's a safe car and very solid, i've got rear ended and pushed under the car in front of me and the front crash bar wasn't even scratched, also no airbag deplyment so i've replaced: rear bumper, tailgate, rear crash bar, front bumper and hood and the frame i straight and I didn't suffer from any major cuncussion, (the car behind me was traveling at least at 40-50 km/h). For the esp/tcs is really advanced, with the extended handling upgrade done to my fabia is even quite too ivasive even if i drive always with the tcs off; but the esp is not deactivable only if you pull the fuse or like on the snow driving with the handbrake on the first clik to disable the esp intervention to have some fun. i own a 1.2 tsi tuned to 140bhp with 186k km and I'm absolutely happy of it relayable and if the driving is good very economcal too. If you want you can retrofit tons of optional, I do personally every intervent on my fabia and I've managed to retrofit even the front pdc even if for the fabia there wasn't any optional for that.

I'm not completely sure about coding them out. I’d first try adding a resistor to the connector, or if i can suggest for other advice, even if the fabric is completely different (and the Mk1 VRS seats are very pretty). Look for some Mk2 Monte Carlo seats (one of the best retrofits I’ve done, and while i was replacing foam i've also added the heating elements). They’re super comfortable, and the sides of the seat keep you in position really well (even in my case where my fabia is heavly modded for cornering capability). (I suggest adding the resistor because I’m not sure if it’s possible to code the seat airbags out. It’s the only module I haven’t coded much. In the next few days I’ll add the passenger seat occupancy sensor, and in VCDS I can see the option to code that in, but that’s almost the only coding I’ve looked at in that module.)

I belive is a coincidence, in the door loom there isn't the canbus drivetrain (the one for the engine ecu, instrumet cluster, airbag system or abs and other priority system), so i guess it shouldn't be the coulprit, there is a ground in the door wiring but if you managed to raise the window I belive that the ground is connected. Do you have any scan tool? also which engine do you have and year?

@Clivegilyatt for the other pins let me know the position and i will tell you color

T28A1 Blue/yellow T28A2 Violet/yellow T28A3 Green/yellow T28A4 Brown/violet T28A5 Grey/white T28A6 Yellow/blue T28A7 T28A8 Grey/blue T28A9 T28A10 T28A11 T28A12 T28A13 T28A14 White/violet T28A15 Red/black (if you have anti theft) T28A16 Brown T28A17 Blue (if you have anti theft) T28A18 Brown/yellow (if you have anti theft) T28A19 T28A20 T28A21 T28A22 T28A23 Brown/blue T28A24 Brown/violet T28A25 Red/white T28A26 T28A27 T28A28

Give me some minute and i will report back with a writedown of color and pin, i have the diagram for a facelift mk2, wich one do you have? Pre facelif or facelift?

You’re welcome, yes I’m interested in the cluster swap but is in hold at the moment I’m considering others retrofit for now, I’ve already done: oem front and rear ops Rear electric windows Headlight washer Montecarlo seats and heating element MFSW Cornering light via fog light Xds and hill hold (coding via vcds) Tpms switch Work in progress oem anti theft system (I need to just do the wiring I have all the components) Front passenger occupancy detection (same situation for the anti theft) Working on the wiring system for the cornering headlight (I have already the AFS module) Abs module 9.0i Working on the wiring system for the Climatronic (auto a/c system)

for the mfsw it's quite easy you can find my guide here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538152-replace-steering-wheel-with-mfsw/#comment-5999427 for the maxidot I'm trying to do it my self but it's quite difficult and the material needed is a bit too expensive to do it jus one time for this reason i would like to suggest to look here: https://3dcolormfd.com/ I've contacted them and they do the greendot cluster of the fabia mk2 FL, they offer way more funtion than the maxidot and there isn't the trouble and cost to clone the cluseter parameter as the EEPROM miles or kms alignment key programming and all that come with a cluster swap. For the other things I'm sorry but I'm not uk based so I'm not able to provide advice on who is able to do the job.

here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495377-monte-carlo-headlights-retrofit/

It isn't a straight swap; otherwise, you will lose the fixed high beam (not the flash function). And yes, it is a shutter type, so you will need to do a proper retrofit with a relay and some wiring. (Also, here on Briskoda, I've read that some users who tested Fabias with chrome vs. black headlights claimed that the black ones are less bright due to the missing reflection from the chrome in the standard ones).

When I grenaded my Fabia gearbox, some bellhousing debris (actually large chunks) hit the pressure plate and bent it. Even though the clutch had only 8,000 km on it, I had to replace it (fun DIY) due to that it wasn't possible to get out of gear while the car was running. It could be something similar, like a faulty clutch sleeve or a pressure plate at the end of its useful life. With everyday use, the forks that are pressed by the clutch release bearing wear out, making it impossible to select gears.

As far as I know you can look pretty much any floor from a hatch or combi according to your model, look also in to scrap yards. Also look here, is avialable https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5ja863463c1bs-boot-rug-sedan-skoda-44046.html

The brake and the clutch system share the same oil, the clutch does get oil from the reservoir, in the picture you can see the rubber hose, wich is placed around the min level so if there is a oil loss you can stiil brake, but you will not have the clutch hydraulic system.

Shock absorber bearing: OEM p/n 6R0 412 249 (I suggest you to look for lemforder or meyle) Upper rubber bushing: OEM p/n 1J0 412 331 C or 1J0 412 331 B (no difference btween the two) Whole meyle kit: 100 412 2019/S (bearing bushing and bolts) For info I've used a fabia combi vrs vin but is all the same btween vrs non vrs hatch and combi

Look also for clutch slave if is leaking it share the same brake fluid

Via vcds you have to acces to the abs module, however like said by Alsadir1 it sound mor like a bad master cylinder, have you ever replaced the brake oil? try to disconnect the radio (only if is aftermarket) and see if you gain access to the abs module, in my case with an aftermarket radio I don't have any issue via vcds, but when i've tuned the ecu the revo dealer was having issue, after I've unplugged the radio everything worked.

try to undo the leads and re-clipping them pulling them towards the firewall instaed of leaving them whit the possibilty to move closer to the turbo heat shield. however i suggest to replace it, pesonally i wouldn't trust it

The trottole body is electronically controlled it means every time it get disconnected or removed (disconnected also like a broken wire) it will need an adaptation (in my Fabia I use vcds) but I believe a mechanic wit a good diagnostic can do it too

Glad I could help, yes I believe too that you will need a new one

If you are referring to me, I’m sorry but I don’t really know about uk law because I don’t live there, I was trying to sort the loose plug first and then suggesting to maybe test if there is 12v in the socket?

As far as I know non it the vrs or the late 2014 with the same style bumper

Try to remove the plastic grill (there should be an hook in the spare tyre kit to remove it) and remove the bolts holding the drl, remove the drl and see if the connector behind it is plugged From this thread https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500244-fabia-vrs-mk2-sidelight-drl-bulb-replacement/ Look at the wire in your picture and the one plugged behind the drl they look the same

But on the 0 position does the lower lamps the circular one (in the place of the fog lights) turns on? Like in pictures Just to start to sorting out the unplugged connector

First of all, does the two drls work when you switch the ignition on?