Aldfort

It might be that the car is still registered to another account. The dealer is supposed to take care of this. Also, AFAIK, Skoda dealers are supposed to assist with the set-up of the Skoda App and the set-up of the primary user.

Not just Skoda, nearly all modern cars do this on startup.

It is possible that the dealer can do the required software update. The problem, as most customers of VAG group have found in recent years is a marked reluctance on the part of dealers to do this sort of work. If you want to do anything yourself (OTA) you need both keys AFAIK. You have tried the obvious I take it? Switch on ignition, turn off the infortainment, go for a little drive, turn on the infotainment and let it do a full re-boot. Wait until all infotainment systems fully working before parking the car and turning off. (Yes, you may have to re-do some of the settings after you do this.)

didn't say that, battery conditioning works just as well on a modern battery as it does on old school stuff. You do not need to rapid charge a battery to get it in the best condition. You need a 60AH battery. Something up to 63AH should be fine. Go to a Web site like Euro car parts and put in your registration number. Halfords should be able to code in the new battery but your Skoda dealer is perhaps a safer option.

Most, but not all, of what nta16 says is good advice. Your battery will certainly suffer in colder weather if you do lots of short journeys with a lot of stuff, like the AC, turned on. You can't stop the car doing what it likes with the power but even with a properly coded battery the car systems are live for many minutes after you turn off the ignition. In fact the car never goes fully to sleep, if it did the My Skoda app could not work. Cars that are not used frequently benefit from being connected to a battery conditioner. This is specifically designed to keep the battery in the optimum state it does this by cycling between charging and discharging (a little bit). The car will certainly not always use the stop start system, mine does not and it's a lot newer than yours. The key checks: Is the battery properly coded to the car? Is the battery the correct size for the car? By size I'm talking about the capacity to hold charge. Is the battery holding a full charge when the vehicle is switched off at the ignition, if so for how long?

The portable tester is giving the right sort of results. 11.9 is a little low but if it's the original battery it's not too bad. The engine on reading is spot on. That does not mean the battery is taking charge. You will lose nothing by putting the battery on trickle charge overnight.

At the end of the day car makers must respond to the market as they see it.

You need to look up the exact gearbox and final drive that is fitted in your car. (Wikipedia can help.) Then there will be plenty of YouTube videos which will show you how to change the oil. That would be the better thing to do. Make sure you get the right oils some gearboxes and differentials use 2 different oils. Some are difficult to do and need special tools so a garage might be a better bet.

Check the oil level in the Gearbox and Diff ASAP.

This can happen a lot. Doofy is right software issues bug a lot of VAG group cars. When the software works it works quite well. Dealers do not seem to like to do software updates despite the fact they are obliged to do so. They should check each time the car goes for service but they don't. It'll tell you in the handbook that the dealer should take care of it. I don't know if it's a training issue or the fact it's not chargeable work but you have to insist and get past the "we can't as our computer is down" excuse. Your problem could be connected with a failed update that the previous owner attempted or it could be caused by the car not being properly deregistered from the pervious owners My Skoda account. Perversely it could also be caused by the car not being properly registered to Your My Skoda app. I could write on this a lot more but best if you tell us which infotainment system your car has. The handbook should give you a clue and you can find a copy on this site or on the Skoda web site if the paper copy has gone missing. One thing to check is you are not in any sort of privacy or semi privacy mode. Some updates come OTA and may not install correctly. Of course as with all things computer just turning it off, waiting 5 minutes and turning it on might work. (i.e. re-boot the infotainment by turning it completely off with the button, turning off the ignition does not turn off the infotainment it just put it to sleep.)

Yes I know that which sort of indicates they do fix issues eventually. I agree that VAG in general are poor at the aftercare of customers. I spent weeks in communication with Audi about the 3G switchoff and it's impact on cars with Infotainment that could not communicate on 4G. My conclusion from this premium brand was they did not care. (I had a car which could not offer Android auto as an option, only 7 years old.) Skoda, albeit belatedly, have, at least, admitted to the problem. So I'm glad I changed brand, and I saved myself at least £5k at the same time.

I cannot say that I have noticed an issue when crawling in traffic. The car just seems to accept the fact it has to go slowly.

I have concluded that newer Kamiq's do not display the gear unless you are in sport mode. Similarly they do not tell you if ACT is active but you can sort of tell.

Try putting something else (e.g. range) in the middle of the dial if you use classic display. I think then you'll get D plus a number just underneath it.

Many things can cause the check engine light to come on, sometimes when there is no real need. If you can feel a misfire then that is why the light is on. I've not yet experienced Skoda limp mode but if it's anything like Audi limp mode then (if you are sure it's not a "real" fault) you just have to keep the revs up a little bit. The light almost always comes on with at least one other in modern cars. Sometimes the "reset" is no more that turning off and turning on again after a pause. Fault codes sort of "build up" to a warning light in some cases. Some need one instance of a fault to throw a warning but others might need to see the same thing 5 or 6 times in the course of a day or two before a light comes on. This explains why the lights sometimes go off by themselves.

My maps update automatically thanks. My comment was more related to 2G / 3G switch-off which has left a lot of folks in the lurch.

I think Hazy Dayz can do this and they offer a nationwide mobile service, or did the last time I looked. BTW - I thought your model had a camera already?

You are right that everything is a mess with vehicle connected coms, in particular here in the UK where cheap has won out over good yet again. The reason TMC works in Europe is that it's free to air in almost all European countries and run by government. Only in the UK is it farmed out to unreliable contractors. That said no UK user should need to be re-coding their own car to get a service they "paid for" when the car was purchased (as in the brochure said the radio had TMC, then suddenly it does not). Not sure I'm with you on the maps stuff somebody has to turn the "map" into files a computer can read. Generally Google maps are pretty accurate Traffic Wales uses Open Street Map as a base map but Traffic England does seem to use an OS base map. As to the actual traffic data it seems the 2 big players are HERE Technologies and INRIX, oddly INRIX are the most well known, probably because they are mentioned on the Traffic England site. I don't use WAZE so can't comment but I have driven on non existent roads a few times when my Sat Nav maps were out of date!

While I don't like to take sides J.R. has the cure more correct IMHO. The problem is we are typing on keyboards not looking at the scratch i.r.l. White showing up could be: The primer showing Paint transfer Damage only to the clearcoat. Frankly impossible to say from reading what is written. OH yes, our Chips Away bloke is good but it is true the standard does vary a lot. As it does with "detailers". To many car cleaners claim to be "detailers" now!

Yes it is all to do with this. On the plus side Skoda seem to be the only part of VAG group to be facing up to the issue of 3G (and 2G) switch-off. On the minus side there will either be no cure or the cure is not yet developed. At least that's what I got from the "2G / 3G Sunset" article. Part of the problem is that VAG rely on intermediaries to ensure the data connectivity rather than contracting directly with the actual Mobile Network Operators. Their use of MVNO's is a weakness as I have mentioned before. Before anything can happen the car needs to connect onto an MVO's network, then a contact with the MVNO's data centre has to be established. This data centre has to talk to the VAG data centre which in turn has to talk to the Google data centre. Then the data is fed back to you. Now I'm sure there are data cashes in the chain but it's still flakey if there is a data centre problem (as there was clearly yesterday). Then you need to factor in the network loading. If there is no 2G and 3G due to the switch off then everybody is on 4G or higher. In these circumstances MNO's will prioritize their direct contract paying customers and those who connect on an MVNO's bulk plan (cheap) will be second best. Sadly VAG did not see fit to allow their cars to connect via their customers mobile phones preferring the e-SIM method (although legislation about the SOS call might play a part in the decision). This is why so many people use Android Auto or Apple Car Play.

@hogun pen llyn The key bit of info you got was that the dealer seems to have missed doing a software update. I would concentrate on getting this done as a matter of some urgency.

This will do the job for £22.00 MOTOPOWER MP69033 OBD2 Scanner Universal Car Engine Fault Code Reader, CAN Diagnostic Scan Tool for All OBD II Protocol Cars : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive This one is Haynes recommended. If you want to go to your favorite car store you need a wired OBD II scanner that can read and clear fault codes. They range in price from ones like this to the professional models that mechanics use. A good shop will sell you what you need if you explain you want it for emergencies only. The OBD port is a bit hard to find it's under the steering wheel generally and very often pink. I keep a little torch with my scanner in the car.

Ok, the fix is simple. You call the dealer, tell them the VAG mobile guy says it needs a software update and you want it done ASAP. It is possible to do it yourself or, in fact, the mobile VAG guy could have done it. Pretty sure it tells you in the handbook how to do a software update but it is essential that the car is registered to you via the MySkoda app. Else the garage is the only option and It's harder for them to do if the car is not registered with Skoda and a primary user set. We get major updates on our Mk 8 Golf R software about annually and we are able to do them ourselves. It is a bit of a faff and you can't use the car while the update is being installed, but you would not be able to use the car if the garage has it. Now that you know this is a random software error you could buy a cheap plug in device to enable you to clear codes, just for get you home peace of mind.

This is a difficult process and needs somebody who knows exactly what they are doing. Key steps are: Making sure all the old filter comes out, this is messy and very messy if you need to fish out the plastic end. The filters are known to fall apart. Draining the oil from both of the drain plugs. Removing the internal oil level setting pipe which is inside the bigger of the 2 drain plugs. Refilling the box using a gravity feed with the bottle of filling oil above the level of the gearbox. Warming the gearbox up to about 37C to 40C and gently exercising it using the gear shift. Getting the excess oil back out to get the oil level right. Give it to the outfit you trust the most or ask whoever is going to do it what the steps are.

I think it's all been said. If the clearcoat and the paint are gone then it's about building the layers back up. If it's black or dark grey in the pit of the scratch then you are through to the plastic. So first a good clean and a wipe with alcohol. Then (cocktail stick is good used as a pen) some of the colour in the bottom of the scratch. Let that dry then apply some clearcoat. Build it up in layers slowly and don't do it on a damp day. If you let the last layer go slightly above the surroundings then you can polish it back once it's dry. (and I mean really dry.) If, as has been said, the scratch is white then it might polish out. TBH nowadays I get a mobile company like Chips Away in.