Aldfort

As said the map in the app is for planning and sending data to the car sat nav. The sat nav in the car then handles the navigation. If you don't like it then enable Android Auto or Apple Carplay. If your maps are up to date the in car sat nav is pretty good. Better if you also have real time traffic.

Apologies for the confusion. I should have said I'll be getting the Gearbox oil changed at 40,000 mile intervals or 4 years whichever comes first.

Odd question, I have a full service plan so I'll be expecting full service at Skoda specified intervals and I'll be checking.

All waxes are prone to this as they get older. It's drying out. Have a look to see if you can find out what solvent is used in the formulation of the wax. If you can get some of the solvent add a tiny amount to the wax, heat up to soften it and then mix thoroughly. This should restore the paste consistency.

As was said before a creaking noise when depressing the clutch is not that unusual. It could be one of the springs in the assembly or even the clutch pressure plate itself. Remember when depressing the clutch to start there are no other noises in the car. Also be sure it's not the drivers seat making the noise.

If you have the original documentation than you may find you have the Certificate of Conformity. (CE Mark cert). The year and month of manufacture are also stated on this.

Just so we care clear, most professional gearbox re-manufacturers recommend the following for 7 speed DQ200 transmissions. "Stop-and-Go Traffic: The DSG7 dry clutch system is particularly susceptible to overheating in frequent stop-and-go traffic. Prolonged use in these conditions can lead to premature wear of the clutch packs. Avoid heavy traffic or allow the gearbox to cool during long stops by shifting into neutral to mitigate this."

If you disable stop start then when you stop at traffic lights, as an example, then put the car into N until you are ready to pull away. This will, in theory, help to reduce clutch drag (yes a DSG has clutches) and prolong the life of the clutches. If stop start is functioning then you don't need N.

Any unexplained noise is always a cause for concern. Are you certain it's not a door or window seal? In any event have the dealer look at it and record the fact you booked it in.

You can buy water softeners for car rinsing. They are not cheap and in very hard water areas might only do 4-6 rinses before being exhausted. The AquaGleam as an example goes for about £70. Wash in the cool and the shade and towel off is the best bet.

The key thing to note is that some items are marked "maintenance" even on the UK schedule. My advice is that when you are booking the car in for service you instruct the dealer to do all the required maintenance items as well. This is particularly true if you have a "service plan". Don't assume everything that needs to get done will get done.

Might be a noisy fuel pump.

The best bet is to take it to the dealer.

Just because you can't see a leak that does not mean that fluid is not passing one of the piston seals. You'd only need a tiny amount to be doing this for the symptom you have mentioned. Rapid release of the pedal might even suck the fluid back into the system.

The new battery will need adaption to the vehicle. Failure to do this will result in problems. There are plenty of good YouTube videos showing how to do battery adaption. Depending on the OBD device you have you may be able to do it yourself.

Hacking the core software is very difficult but not totally impossible, (nothing is)! As a first step I'd get your phone checked out or simply un pair it from the car and see if you have the same problem. If you do then the next step is to visit a main dealer and get the car software checked out / re-installed.

All the information you need is on the sidewall of the current tyre. You can go up a little on load rating and on speed rating if you wish. Any good tyre place will provide you with the right tyre or you can visit the tyre makers web site. Most of them have a selector where you input make and model and they tell you which tyres work for you. NOTE: you must get the rim size right. Again the info is on the existing tyre or you can measure the rim diameter.

It is true that in 2020 VW started to make adaption (turning on software features that are supported, i.e. hardware already in place). There is a constant battle between the aftermarket coding community and the manufacturers. For sure cheap coding tools have very limited effect now and for a lot of things only those who know how to do do the long coding can make progress.

There is a specific coding sub forum. From what I have read unless you have VCDS available to you then OBDeleven is the best tool. But if you want to make big changes then long coding is likely to be needed.

Saw 63 mpg average yesterday just before filling up. Mostly M-way.

Since you have warranty then probably best to speak to the dealer assuming the fault has not cleared itself.

New filters tend to come with a new O ring. If the housing itself is leaking it's likely to be cracked somewhere. It is possible it's the gasket between the housing assembly and the block that is leaking, in which case either a new gasket, new O ring or an appropriate sealing compound should fix it.

The first thing to do is ask for a printout of the complete service record from the new garage. Once you have this you can check it against your own records. If it matches up then you're good to go. If it can't be supplied and an excuse is given then you can go to your main Skoda dealer and ask for it. To be very honest, I only ever use the main dealer for service, yes it is more expensive, but as a customer you can ask for the full service history printout. I tend to keep all the receipts as well, also for things like tyres. Pays off when you trade the car in or sell it. On the other hand, there are many reputable indy garages out there who pay the fee to be able to keep the online service record up to date and to be able to access it. In some cases these guys are better than the main dealer. I find that asking around is a good plan.

If they are "ordinary" bulbs then you might need a ballasted LED to keep the system happy. Easy way is to try one at a time.

The speed limiter and the speed limit warning are two different systems. You can enable the speed limiter so that you do not exceed the speed you set. The speed limit warning sounds a chime once you exceed the posted speed limit. It also sounds a (different) tone when the speed limit changes. Both of these settings are user configurable via the digital dash controls.