Aldfort

If it's Skoda approved used then take it back to the supplying dealer.

sounds like it's either a spring or the pedal bearing. As has been advised, starting at the pedal lubricate the bearings using a lubricant suitable for plastic and rubber. If you can see any springs on the pedal box then try lubricating then with something like WD 40 sparingly and a tiny blob of grease on the hook on the end of the spring. Under the bonnet look to see if the hydraulic pipe from the master to slave cylinder is moving a little bit and rubbing something. That's about all you can do, a garage may be able to lubricate the clutch release bearing pivots, not sure to be honest.

There were once a few UK firms but not so much now. We ended up making a cover of your own and putting holes in it to allow access to the isofix and seatbelt points. You might try Animed, think they are still going. Covers and All also have a UK portal.

This is indicative of a worn piston seal in either the master or slave cylinder. It does not have to result in a visible leak. It will probably get worse with time. The fix is easy but messy and time consuming. Unless you can be sure which piston is misbehaving then both need to be looked at. A main dealer will probably advise changing the the master and slave cylinders which might be cheaper given what main dealer labour charges are. If you have a good indy dealer locally take it to them.

If you don't have built in NAV than Android Auto is by far and away the best option.

The average price I've seen is about £220. A tiny sum when compared to all the other running costs.

As said the map in the app is for planning and sending data to the car sat nav. The sat nav in the car then handles the navigation. If you don't like it then enable Android Auto or Apple Carplay. If your maps are up to date the in car sat nav is pretty good. Better if you also have real time traffic.

Apologies for the confusion. I should have said I'll be getting the Gearbox oil changed at 40,000 mile intervals or 4 years whichever comes first.

Odd question, I have a full service plan so I'll be expecting full service at Skoda specified intervals and I'll be checking.

All waxes are prone to this as they get older. It's drying out. Have a look to see if you can find out what solvent is used in the formulation of the wax. If you can get some of the solvent add a tiny amount to the wax, heat up to soften it and then mix thoroughly. This should restore the paste consistency.

As was said before a creaking noise when depressing the clutch is not that unusual. It could be one of the springs in the assembly or even the clutch pressure plate itself. Remember when depressing the clutch to start there are no other noises in the car. Also be sure it's not the drivers seat making the noise.

If you have the original documentation than you may find you have the Certificate of Conformity. (CE Mark cert). The year and month of manufacture are also stated on this.

Just so we care clear, most professional gearbox re-manufacturers recommend the following for 7 speed DQ200 transmissions. "Stop-and-Go Traffic: The DSG7 dry clutch system is particularly susceptible to overheating in frequent stop-and-go traffic. Prolonged use in these conditions can lead to premature wear of the clutch packs. Avoid heavy traffic or allow the gearbox to cool during long stops by shifting into neutral to mitigate this."

If you disable stop start then when you stop at traffic lights, as an example, then put the car into N until you are ready to pull away. This will, in theory, help to reduce clutch drag (yes a DSG has clutches) and prolong the life of the clutches. If stop start is functioning then you don't need N.

Any unexplained noise is always a cause for concern. Are you certain it's not a door or window seal? In any event have the dealer look at it and record the fact you booked it in.

You can buy water softeners for car rinsing. They are not cheap and in very hard water areas might only do 4-6 rinses before being exhausted. The AquaGleam as an example goes for about £70. Wash in the cool and the shade and towel off is the best bet.

The key thing to note is that some items are marked "maintenance" even on the UK schedule. My advice is that when you are booking the car in for service you instruct the dealer to do all the required maintenance items as well. This is particularly true if you have a "service plan". Don't assume everything that needs to get done will get done.

Might be a noisy fuel pump.

The best bet is to take it to the dealer.

Just because you can't see a leak that does not mean that fluid is not passing one of the piston seals. You'd only need a tiny amount to be doing this for the symptom you have mentioned. Rapid release of the pedal might even suck the fluid back into the system.

The new battery will need adaption to the vehicle. Failure to do this will result in problems. There are plenty of good YouTube videos showing how to do battery adaption. Depending on the OBD device you have you may be able to do it yourself.

Hacking the core software is very difficult but not totally impossible, (nothing is)! As a first step I'd get your phone checked out or simply un pair it from the car and see if you have the same problem. If you do then the next step is to visit a main dealer and get the car software checked out / re-installed.

All the information you need is on the sidewall of the current tyre. You can go up a little on load rating and on speed rating if you wish. Any good tyre place will provide you with the right tyre or you can visit the tyre makers web site. Most of them have a selector where you input make and model and they tell you which tyres work for you. NOTE: you must get the rim size right. Again the info is on the existing tyre or you can measure the rim diameter.

It is true that in 2020 VW started to make adaption (turning on software features that are supported, i.e. hardware already in place). There is a constant battle between the aftermarket coding community and the manufacturers. For sure cheap coding tools have very limited effect now and for a lot of things only those who know how to do do the long coding can make progress.

There is a specific coding sub forum. From what I have read unless you have VCDS available to you then OBDeleven is the best tool. But if you want to make big changes then long coding is likely to be needed.