Aldfort

Monte Carlo is a trim level designation on the Kamiq in the UK.

It fascinates me that we have somebody who knows, or has bothered to find out, why you need to code in a new battery having to constantly repeat the fact you need to code in a new battery. It is true that back in the stone age charging systems were a little more crude than they are today, hence why the car did not need to know (could not be told) it had a new battery. When I was young I'd happily slap any old battery I could find into my old clunker to keep it going. Sadly those days are gone and now the cars electronics control everything and need to know about battery replacement as they'll then compensate for the fact as has been explained above.

Wow, you guys. OK so don't code your new batteries and pull wire connections off the car without fully knowing what you are doing. I really don't care that much provided you don't live near me.

Every mechanic I know says you must code a new battery. Every pro diagnostic tool has the facility.

Messing with the wiring in a car is never a smart idea. It takes all of a second to press the stop/start button after starting the engine and the stop start is properly disabled.

Go to the doctors. Some years ago I suffered this symptom on long drives (Audi Q3). Turned out I had diverticulitis.

No, it clearly says in the handbook that the Cruise that is fitted my not maintain the set speed on downhills. It is not hill decent control and therefore has no ability to apply the brakes.

If your car already supports repeating the map display in the dashboard then it is, maybe, possible. If you can't repeat the map display in the dashboard at the moment then updating the software might provide the function or it might not. Not all cars are built exactly the same there are many "under the hood" variations in components that are possible. You might have more chance asking a local Skoda dealer if you have one. If the Kamiq is not available in your market via a dealer network then I think you are on an adventure into the unknown. My advice is to stick with what works.

As with all things legal in life you should read the small print, most don't which apparently in the 21st century is not always their fault, at least according to lawyers that run mis-selling class actions!

It was on an Audi, as I already mentioned, and they were happy to do all the work the maintenance schedule dictated. I took out a 2 year plan when the car was 3 years old and another when it was 5 years old. All plans were administrated by VW finance. Can't recall the exact costs but less than £40 per month. Plan included all servicing and breakdown cover, including repairs as a result of the breakdown. Only caveat was - diagnostics which did not show a fault, had to be paid for. It would seem, from your Google AI post that this may no longer be the case but, as with all things in life, best to ask what's included before committing. I personally found the plan to be good value but that's just my opinion.

My point was that you can have the required servicing work done on a VW all in one plan. It's not, in any way, excluded. The fact the dealer needs "reminding" of the schedule is altogether another matter.

I've had these VW plans on 2 cars and have it on a Golf currently. Everything required on the service schedule has been done, OK had to ask for DSG service but it was done under the plan. Not yet had to claim for a repair on the Golf but repairs on a previous Audi were covered under the plan. The usual caveat of a charge for a diagnostic if no fault found applied but they found a fault and so no cost to me.

Dealers don't like to do work they can't bill. A charge for a diagnostic is quite normal if it's NFF. But there should be a fault code in the ECU so it would be a fib if they said NFF. Modern ecu's keep a good record of faults even if the faults are historical and trivial. Dealers attitudes to software updates can be flakey. Some are in the "ain't broke don't fix it camp". The factory will issue a list of updates that must be done so the correct question is "Is my software up to date as specified by the factory?" Some software updates ore only needed for specific configurations of the car, some are needed in response to the customer reporting a specific fault, others are more broad based and must be done if the factory advises it. Some updates are sent out directly to the car, you will normally get a massage on the infotainment if you get one of these. This assumes you have connected the car and /or are using the app. also depends on the discoverability you (or the dealer) have set. Note: cars cannot be started during a software update once it starts the car is effectively immobilised.

Really would go ahead with the dealer appointment. Their scanner will be way more thorough than anything you have unless it's pro-equipment and can emulate the workshop scanner completely which is doubtful. The point is that you will report the fault and then insist that this is recorded in the cars electronic service history with the diagnostic results. If it happens again outside of the warrantee period you then have a record of the fact there was a problem reported but it was not resolved by the dealer. If it's something major and the symptoms are identical then you have a chance of a claim.

I can tell you a little bit. The traffic sign recognition are supposed to be by the camera but it's been clear for a long time that some of the data is also in the maps database. The fault with the turn signals is due to a can-bus error possibly due to a poor ground somewhere.

Given you have warrantee, take it to the dealer, yes they might delete the fault codes but ask them to make sure the issue is recorded in the car's service record. Also ask them why it happened. It's important to get an official record of the fault and you reporting it in case you need to claim later.

The newer oils are primarily about reduction of emissions and letting the engine spin more freely. At least that is what all the blurb says. As long as the oil meets the required spec it'll be fine.

1) If you have the cruise control switched on then turn it completely off on the left hand stalk. This should reveal the odometer on the lower right of the dash. 2) If you have the Driver Information System on the dash then scroll through the options for Overview data. There should be 3 options, since refuel, since start and long term. Long Term may give you the data you need. I hope you get it sorted, no odometer will be an MOT fail.

Does the tom-tom battery discharge if it's disconnected from the car?

Yes - in Australia, not the same in the UK old bean.

Sadly you are wrong and it's already documented elsewhere on this site. A hard wired dashcam is a modification according to many insurers. Sadly if you fail to notify the insurer of the modification you risk invalidating your insurance. Of course I'm speaking about the UK, where you live it may be different. 😁

There is some mis information in this thread. Skoda will sell you a set of winter wheels and tyres for this car. They are a catalogue item. The winter wheels and tyres are offered on either a 16 or 17 inch rim from memory. That said, if the insurer has been asked and given the response stated by the OP this will be on file with them. If the car is found to be on other than the supplied wheels then the insurance might well use this to decline a claim. Sad but's that's how it is in 2025.

The only thing I can think of is that the Tom Tom is not shutting down when the ignition is turned off. Maybe it's been hardwired into the wrong circuit? In the old days we had permanent live and ignition controlled circuits. In modern cars we still have permanent live and ignition controlled but also circuits controlled on the canbus or by the car's CPU.

To be fair the owners manual tells you how to operate the car. It does not provide detail of what might be different from your last car. Still glad you seem to have it sorted out.

Yes, the punctured tyre! I am assuming it will fit reasonably into the wheel well when it's flat. Probably with a bit of pushing and shoving. As I said, based on what I've seen I'd be happy to drive a few miles on the space saver with the punctured tyre in the wheel well. I'd not be happy to have an 18 inch wheel jammed into the spare wheel well as a spare tyre as it does not fit properly. The rolling radius of the 16 inch wheel and tyre is different to the 18 inch wheel and tyre. This has been pointed out. Therefore the 16 inch wheel and tyre is no better than the space saver as you should not be running tyres of different rolling radius on the same axle. The solution for the OP's father is to buy 5 x 16 inch wheels (ideally the Skoda ones) and tyres if he wants a proper "spare tyre", or to keep his 18 inch wheels and accept he can use the emergency space saver spare if he gets a puncture. I'll say again that in this litigious age I'd only be using the solutions in the Skoda handbook. I'd even avoid buying my spare wheel kit from 3rd parties. Let's not forget that in 2025 wiring in a dash cam can apparently invalidate your insurance!