Aldfort

To be clear with push button start: There is no ACC position. Pressing the button without touching the pedals turn on the whole ignition system so you are in the equivalent of IGN position. Pressing the button while depressing the brake (or clutch) turns on IGN and starts the engine. The above said, the car is a bit cleverer than cars of old. You'll notice that unlocking the car actually energises some things (e.g dashboard) In the same way when you stop the car and turn off the ignition (press the start stop) the radio still plays until you exit the car. (Or until the cars "brain" decides it should be turned off!!)

I'm just confused now. The OP is asking about a spare wheel for his dad. There is enough info in this thread to suggest that a full sized 18 inch wheel is too big to be a spare and you need to fit the space saver wheel kit. I've had a look at mine this morning I run an 18 inch wheel and it will sort of sit in the spare wheel well but it's not a good fit. While I'd be OK driving a few miles to a garage to drop it off I'd be worried it was not properly secured if left in there on a day to day basis. There is, of course, an insurance angle to consider anything that the insurance company can point at and say "non-standard" places the insured at risk.

You should be able to get the whole kit from a Skoda Dealer. it is the most expensive way though. I have read that if you have the variable boot floor it's a little more complicated.

I've played this game as well. Then when you think it's not in the UK suddenly you get a phone call saying it'll arrive at the dealer tomorrow. I must admit now that I give the supplying dealer some latitude (colour, trim level, accessories) so that they can try to find the car I want "from stock". Worked a treat last time, had the car in 2-3 weeks.

"Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything."

Takes 2 to bicker and it's unhelpful on a forum like this if somebody does not read the whole thread and understand what answers have already been given. Utterly pointless to repeat the same answers over and over IMHO of course.

Before this gets silly: The start stop may well not function. Sometimes this is nothing to do with the state of battery charge. As an example, on a hot day if you have the A/C turned on then the compressor needs to run if it senses the car is too warm. This will start the engine (or not stop it). The key for the OP is to follow the instructions in the manual to clean the particulate filter. If that does not work then professional help is needed.

Remember, In a modern car faults stack up. A blocked particle filter will cause the engine ECU to put the car in a limited power mode (That's the EPC light). This in turn will turn on the dreaded orange "check engine" light. Sometimes, even if you solve the original problem, (particle filter) you'll need to clear the fault codes using an OBD II reader.

The resting voltage should be at least 12.6 volts. So the battery is starting to struggle. There are several things to consider. The first, as mentioned, is proper adaptation of the battery. The second is proper charging while in the car. The charging voltage should be checked. The third is excessive power drain on the battery. This can be from to many accessories in use to a tiny little leak to ground.

Sorry, I drive a 1.5 but the valve will be somewhere in the inlet tract. The intent is to suck the fumes out of the carbon cannister. Pic below might help.

I've checked the manual (page 140 or so for Kamiq) and the icon in the bottom left of screen does have the red lines on it. The function of the icon when touched is to put the rear view camera into full screen.

Well defo does in my 2024 Kamiq and also says it in the handbook.

Things to check: That you have not inadvertently over filled the gas tank recently. Modern tanks should not be brimmed. The vent from the carbon cannister is not blocked. The Purge Valve is functioning. There might be a thermal vacuum valve in the system, it will be linked to the purge valve if present. If so check this. You'll need a workshop manual to check all of this but these are some on this site you can download.

I think mine looks exactly the same. It's an icon. When you reverse does the sensor actually work? The beeping starts and the actual visual warning behind the car image in the screen starts to flash?

I think the solution was provided in one of the answers. If you use smart locking it locks everything with a single press on the fob. However by the time you walk round to check the boot it has probably decided you want to open it so it lets you. You can "deadlock" the car, it explains how in the handbook, method varies a bit with trim level AFAIK.

For similar reason I keep a full paper service history and place it in the car when I sell it or trade it in.

Worth mentioning that with ordinary Cruise Control the cat can exceed the set speed on downhills.

@GuyIncognito The simple answer to your question is Yes, if the car was serviced by any Skoda main dealer. If the car has had work done by specialists then depending on if they sign up to be able to update the online service history or not there may be gaps. If you go to a Skoda garage with the VIN and the Reg, they may help you and give you a printout of the official online history. If they do it will be as a favour, it's not something you can demand.

It looks like the solvent might be kerosine (actually nonane which is quite pure unlike kerosine which has other stuff in it.) Also there is some naphtha in it. Look for a MSDS for Fusso coat online and take it to your local store. THat said it might be easier to buy some more.

If it's Skoda approved used then take it back to the supplying dealer.

sounds like it's either a spring or the pedal bearing. As has been advised, starting at the pedal lubricate the bearings using a lubricant suitable for plastic and rubber. If you can see any springs on the pedal box then try lubricating then with something like WD 40 sparingly and a tiny blob of grease on the hook on the end of the spring. Under the bonnet look to see if the hydraulic pipe from the master to slave cylinder is moving a little bit and rubbing something. That's about all you can do, a garage may be able to lubricate the clutch release bearing pivots, not sure to be honest.

There were once a few UK firms but not so much now. We ended up making a cover of your own and putting holes in it to allow access to the isofix and seatbelt points. You might try Animed, think they are still going. Covers and All also have a UK portal.

This is indicative of a worn piston seal in either the master or slave cylinder. It does not have to result in a visible leak. It will probably get worse with time. The fix is easy but messy and time consuming. Unless you can be sure which piston is misbehaving then both need to be looked at. A main dealer will probably advise changing the the master and slave cylinders which might be cheaper given what main dealer labour charges are. If you have a good indy dealer locally take it to them.

If you don't have built in NAV than Android Auto is by far and away the best option.

The average price I've seen is about £220. A tiny sum when compared to all the other running costs.