aubrey

What engine ? Although isn't the 7 speed only the 1.2 petrol like mine ? That will be the DQ200 which has no service schedule

Sure to its optimum though ? I'm assuming your vehicle was stop/start ? I'm only saying what should be done, as regards to how really necessary it is then I don't know. But wouldn't you expect a professional place to do things by the book ?

I wouldn't be impressed with a professional not coding a new battery. Even if the same battery type and Ah you should change the battery serial number to reset the BMS. Hopefully what I've heard is true then and the BMS will adapt over time to the new battery. But still I'd expect a professional establishment to do it by the book.

I've heard a few times that if the same type of battery i.e. EFB or AGM, and the same Ah then coding is not so important. I always code anyway as I have VCDS and why not do a simple thing. But still just rementioning a common statement.

Did they do the ABS Bleed using a diagnostic tool ? Was an ABS Bleed requested

The tensioner has a hole in the mount that a lock bar goes through, onto the block, to lock the tensioner in the released position. I have the correct bar but I'm sure an appropriate drill bit would work too. Just means both hands are free.

Or maybe they didn't do an official MOT. Sure I've checked afterwards and my details were there almost immediately. So if not officially failed then as the website states your vehicle is still has a valid MOT. Recheck in the morning I guess to be sure.

Put your reg number into the MOT Checker https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history As said if they logged it as a dangerous fault then it can't officially be driven. If the light only just appeared then there will be some pad material still left, but I've no idea how MOT classes that. Also the pad sensor is often only on one side so uneven wear could be different other side

They'd retest for free even if you remove the car from their premises ? As to driving was it classed as a Dangerous Defect ? As if so then it can't be driven. A thousand pounds to replace front discs and pads. I must be so out of touch with prices or are they something special ? Those bits would cost me about £100 on my Yeti and take me a couple of hours at most.

Depends where you mount the dashcam I guess. Mine is more to the passenger side. Installers choice I guess, it was just a heads up if you assumed the mirror makes no difference. More to the left as I like to see the dashcams screen to confirm all's good with it, put it into WiFi file transmit mode etc.

Very simple. It leads you through the process. Shows messages like Pump pedal 10 times, hold pedal down, open both front bleed valves, close both front valves etc. VCDS on the PC leads you through the process. I just did as it requested until it said Complete. The process seems to be a repeating loop of about 10 cycles until a final Complete message. I kept glancing at the pressure bleeder to ensure pressure maintained and plenty of remaining fluid. I think I used a good 2L during the process, but put 4L in before so I knew I'd have plenty.

You don't need to do the ABS Bleed Procedure to do a normal brake bleed. However if you have got air in the ABS unit then that's the only way to clear it and regain your hard pedal. I've found many garages don't even know what you're talking about when you ask them to do an ABS Bleed diagnostic procedure. I've even been conned by one who went yeah, yeah, yeah and didn't do it as charged and the car came back still wrong, until I did it myself. So if the garage did get air in the ABS, probably by letting the reservoir run dry while normal bleeding then doing a diagnostic ABS Bleed is the only way to resolve it. A normal brake bleed won't help at all. On my Yeti I did that procedure by getting all bleed nipples accessable, plug on a pressure bleeder and do the process. In retrospect I only needed both fronts accessable but an earlier Skoda Roomster needed all 4, so I was prepared for whatever the PC requested. You need a few litres of fluid but it's a straight forward process and immediately returns a hard pedal. I normally found the symptoms before are if the engine is off then you can pump a hard high pedal, but start the engine and the pedal then sinks down a lot. A little sink is normal due to the brake servo, but with air in the ABS it sinks a lot more.

Yes, I do mean replacing both sides brake shoes. As you say they come as a set for both sides anyway. Not really necessary to replace both sides wheel cylinders unless when you have a look at the other side you notice any under rubber leaking. But yes the shoes, best to keep wear balanced so change as an axel set.

Changing the rear wheel cylinder is simple enough. Not so simple if you've never worked on brakes before, have you not got anyone who can help you that has ? If it was me I'd take off the reservoir lid and put some cling film over and screw the lid back on. That makes less fluid leak later. Then swapping the cylinder itself is normally just a bolts thing and the brake line. I'd be replacing shoes as could be oil contaminated and giving the drum a good clean up. That probably means replacing both axles. Then finally remove cling film and bleed the brake line. Very basic points there, I couldn't open your photo and I've never done the task on a Fabia, but have on other manufacturers. Expect it to be similar. I'd maintain if your unsure then try to get help, but we all learnt somehow. For me it was 30 years ago on a Hillman Imp without even YouTube for help.

I'd recommend you remove the Passenger side A Pillar Trim and run the cable that side. It's easy to feed the wire behind, through the dash to the fuses. Reason being you can't get a wire across the mirror mounting. So by coming up the passenger side then you don't need to cross over the mirror.

Probably just a coincidence that the ABS light came on when you removed some brake fluid. Fluid level would of gone up with new discs and pads, pistons pushed back due to increased thickness. Got to say I never bother removing fluid when I use my pressure bleeder, just leave it a little down from the rim. The level can only fall as brakes wear, can't rise. And I never top up as brakes wear as it causes overflowing on later pad/disc replacement. Just removing some fluid would of made no difference, I'm assuming you wouldn't of even emptied the reservoir, why would you. More likely a wheel pickup has failed. Obviously they're in the vicinity of the discs and calipers, but you've got to be pretty rough to of damaged one on a brake change. You do need a scan that covers ABS, that would highlight which corner to investigate further.

OLED is great but do cost more. I love my OLED Smart TV, great contrast, real blacks (like plasma) and wide viewing angle.

Whenever I've changed a Skoda stop/start battery then the factory serial number of the battery in the BMS is something like 11111111, so if it's still that value then that is a red flag that it wasn't coded. Did the Skoda garage tell you what that current value was ? If your car is working fine, including stop/start, then I wouldn't be too worried. Especially if your new battery type i.e. EFB and Ah rating is the same. I always set the BMS battery serial number to the date I put the battery in i.e. 03082024 if today, it is just having a changed serial number that resets the charging profile. Having it set as the battery change date means I can always read that value if I forget and wonder the battery age. I'd hate to think a garage would try to encourage unnecessary work and expenses but that Skoda garage worries me

On your phone under Settings -> Android Auto -> Customise Launcher You tick which apps you want to show up on Android Auto, ensure Waze is ticked.

🤣 Seriously have people actually done that ? A tip I'd add is on filling fill to just showing on the dipstick until you get the car on level ground. Then once all level do the final top up. I ended up overfilling my Yeti once due to the slight slope of my drive. Vacuuming some out was a pain.

I have no issues with the unit turning on and off. I did have to buy a different can bus cable than the one that came with my android head unit. My Yeti had just a single car side connector, the head unit was supplied with one that had 2 car side connectors. I had to get this : https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyfjLMj So I'd recommend you look at what connectors you currently have, is it one or two main plugs. Is the antenna a single or dual fakra. Mine needed the dual fakra, so I got this lead that included an amp, that inline amp I powered from the antenna power out of the can bus cable. There a spare core that gives out 12v DC when the unit is on. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyODJKP

This is what Waze looks like for me, I've never found it hard to use. Not had any slow response issues with my unit either, but as you see from my link and choice in my 1st response, I did pick one of the more expensive options.

I think the cheaper ones just have different screen type/resolution, less processor speed/ram. They all fit very similar and yes, the OEM look is good. I'm interested to read your feedback in the future. https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJQJleX

I brought the S8 version of this for my Yeti. I had to add the correct canbus cable, antenna connector and I also added a wireless android auto adapter. Had that installed over a year now with no problems at all. I use it for Android Auto all the time, often with Waze. If I had to be critical I'd say the radio is a little less sensitive and needs a stronger signal than my original Skoda head unit. All the steering wheel controls work with it and it shows Door open, A/C controls fine https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQOaqab

I'd guess air con condensation, as you say it's not oil. Check your fluid levels and keep an eye on them.