aubrey

Swapped my front discs and pads on Saturday. I was surprised that there is no front pad wear sensor. None on the original pads and no wiring. So I just chopped the cable off the replacement pads and fitted them without. But I thought odd why no wear sensor ? I had it on my old Roomster.

So they have a pressure bleeder all hooked up and they can't be bothered to access the clutch bleed nipple. Exactly why I always do this myself. Maybe this is a time thing due to access, I've often had to remove items to get to the clutch bleed nipple. Some are fragile plastic and if they broke that on a concentric slave cylinder it's big remedial work. Coupled with clutches don't work under the heat load of brakes so I bet it's not so necessary. I always do the clutch too myself as an extra half hour or hour is not a personal issue, for a garage that would be different. Interesting question and I'm interested in other answers.

5.1 does mix, (5.0 can't just to confuse things) This is an interesting doc I found on the web that mentions Dot 4 ESP, that does seem different with esp use at lower temperatures. I never even knew about it before looking up on your post. https://www.partinfo.co.uk/docs/9295

I've always used good quality Dot 5.1

You could try putting your reg number into https://www.tayna.co.uk/

I'd be suspicious of the charging if immediately after a good run it couldn't start. Even bad batteries would immediately start the vehicle. I note you did say no warning light was up while driving though. At the very least can you confirm the voltage on the battery when the engine is running, is it 13.5 to 14.5 volts. How old is the battery ? Has it been sluggish, slow turn over, with starting for a while ? Maybe I'm just being too cautious and not just immediately blaming the battery. Edit: just reread you say a couple of days after a long run. OK, in that case I would blame the battery. I've read lots of comments if you swap the same type of battery and Ah rating then coding is not so important. Get it done if you can but don't sweat too much if a similar like for like battery swap.

Its actually better to just take the wire up, behind the left hand A Pillar Trim. Everybody assumes you have to go up the right hand A Pillar Trim. It is simple to route a cable underneath the dash board and if you go up the left hand side then the middle piece won't be an obstacle. The end result being neater. Yes you are correct that you can't get a cable across that centre piece, at least I couldn't on my Yeti. That's why I just went up the left hand A Pillar.

Most, if not all, SoundBars would take an Optical In connector. A SoundBar would be your solution. Is it the normal optical connection which is kind of like a 5mm square hole. A toslink cable.

If it does not have Wireless AA built in, then you can get Wireless AA Dongles that do connect USB wise but then the AA on your phone can connect wirelessly to that. Just search for AA Wireless Dongle on Amazon and you'll find loads.

I used one of these, a cheap item that did the task brilliantly. I had the oil container on the ground, under the car and just put one hose in the top of that container and the other in the side fill hole of the gearbox. I'd recommend that item to anyone, it was really effective and simple. https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-multipurpose-siphon-pump-kit/580hp

Mine was a 57 Roomster (November 2007) and it was 2nd gear I heard the gear change noise. It does appear now this was a known 2007 Roomster situation. Reading that old post, how would you add extra oil ? It comes out of the side fill hole when at that level, would you have to tip the car to the side ? I just filled to that level, drove the car a bit and added again to fill level to confirm it hadn't changed (dropped) after using all the gears. The noise description Grumbling or Crunching, all I can say 2nd gear was not the silent slip into gear as the other gears were. You didn't have to use any more pressure to change gear, it was just not silent. I can't remember now was it only up or down shifts, but it was alway to 2nd gear. I didn't like the noise as the noise made me think something must be wearing more, in making a noise and it would only get worse until ultimate failure. So I was relieved when just an oil change returned the silent, smoother gear changes.

The only explanation that I have is that is what occured. I only tried the change gearbox oil as I was reading quite a few posts on it. Such as this one I just found via Google: So I hear what your saying, but all I can respond is it worked for me, and from what I read back then others too. PS That's just one post out of a few around that time. I'm sure you could find more. All I can report is what occured and what oil I used. I can't say was the gearbox fully filled before, I didn't measure the amount drained. Was that oil I used a different viscosity to the original. Just don't think I'm lying, I'm simply reporting what occured.

Interesting comment after what I just said occured on my Roomster. At the time I did the oil change because others had said similar, it was often always 2nd gear too.

My old manual 1.9pd Roomster started having a crunch when selecting 2nd gear. Not every time but it started to become more regular, and kind of expected. So I changed the gearbox oil and the crunch immediately stopped. I guess in retrospec I didn't change it for no reason, but 100% it made a difference. I used Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE SAE75W. Maybe the oil was a different spec to the original, I have no idea but 100% the crunch immediately stopped and never returned for all the years afterwards I owned that car.

Never done it, but from what I believe it's along the lies of - clip off the gaiter frame surround at the base. Pull the base surround with the leather sleeve up & over the gearstick and you'll see the plug/socket and clamp to the top part. Hopefully others give you greater detail.

I'd say you did it the right way. From your pictures it looks like Carista has renamed Fleece to AGM. That will save confusing. It used to have 'Binary AGM' and 'Fleece', fleece was always the correct type but you can understand why only having one choice with the letters AGM caused confusion. The battery type has a Mat and I believe it was the translation between a mat and a fleece that produced the wording. So you choice of AGM and not Binary AGM is correct. I think the ECU holds just a number for battery type, like type 1,2,3 etc and not an ASCII string "AGM', "EFB" etc. So as I've said it's good they have now changed the user displayed words of those ECU held numbers. This would explain why you saw your old battery as also 'AGM', I bet if you'd of checked with older software it would of said 'Fleece'. I have also heard like Gabbo that if nothing really changes that the coding is not so important. But I've always maintained if you can do it, then why not.

From your garage fault screen photo it does appear your sounder or wiring to it is faulty. I'd expect you'd find the output test also produces no audible response. These may help in your investigation.

You can test it via OBD. I just tried with VCDS on my Yeti and found that if you go into Module 10 then under Output Tests you can operate the speaker. It gave me a constant tone, so not the normal beeping you get. On exiting Output Test the solid sound continues for a about another 5 seconds and then goes silent again. Also if you go into Advanced Measuring Values you can get readings off the 4 sensors. I attach an image as I reversed towards a wall.

Yes, fitted it myself. As you probably know it's only a matter of gently prising the head unit surrounding trim away and 4 torx screws to remove the old unit. The only special connector it needed was those 2 additional items I wrote about on that Roomster post, The dual Farka antenna adapter and the Golf canbus cable. The canbus cable has a 12v antenna DC out that I soldered and heat shrunk to the 12v power feed for the antenna adapter (amp}. Then it all just plugged together in the car. That android head unit is only about 3cm deep so there is loads of space left behind for the gps antenna and cabling as the original Skoda unit is normal depth. It really is just plug and play with those 3 items. Keep your wiring neat with cable ties, it is quite straightforward.

I fitted this and the steering wheel controls still work fine. Added - Rear parking sensors beep and distance bars appear on the display, although they are not as big as before https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517999-bluetooth-head-unit-options/?do=findComment&comment=5806182

With the engine off is the brake pedal hard high up and does not sink even with hard foot pressure ? Then when you start the engine that sinking occurs ? The pedal should sink a bit when the engine starts, that's normal due to the servo assist, but just an inch or so, not right down. Asking as on my old Roomster I got air in the ABS unit and had to do an ABS Bleed to immediately fix that using VCDS. Normal brake bleeding does not purge the ABS. My fault I got air in the ABS unit by running the reservoir dry while bleeding them. Only that VCDS ABS Bleed cured it.

If you go down that route then for my Yeti I had to also get: VW CanBus Adapter https://a.aliexpress.com/_EjyZELj Dual Fakra Antenna Adapter https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuARKsz You would do good to check your Roomsters current connections to confirm your needs. You can always send me pictures if unsure.

Have you considered those Android HeadUnits ? I installed one in my old Roomster and now put one in my current Yeti too. Gives me Android Auto, SatNav and Bluetooth as you're after. In my Yeti I installed the S8 version of this : https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIH9vwd

What does a fault scan show ? I'm assuming these faults were all clear before. I'm surprised a 'Clear all DTCs' does not clear out any battery swapped codes, or do they immediately come back in ? Did you reset the BMS OK with the battery swap ?

I saw 4L up for £28, so brought myself a couple for the next 2 years services. Seemed a good deal so letting others know. Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL Engine Oil 4L https://amzn.eu/d/be1L1QL