pikpilot

Not sure I understand what you are saying above. I have the same engine and refused to have the emission service action. My car has had the stationary car rev limiter from new. As you say, a very good feature. It was not part of the software "upgrade" as far as I can tell. If you are saying the feature was removed when they did the emissions service action, I am would be surprised that they could have deleted such a necessary protection.

When I bought my previous estate it smelt awful inside due the previous owner using it to carry dogs in the back and especially the boot. I fixed it over a couple of days by spraying the seats and carpets with Febreze textile spray. No more smell.

Anti lock brake system doing its job?

Yes, it could. Do the test I advised and especially look for wear on rubber components. Check too for slack where the drive shaft connects to the shaft coming out of the gearbox. I am surprised your garage did not do these tests when replacing the suspension. I would also suggest you take off each front wheel in turn and check their work. Do both sides look the same? Any loose or missing bolts? Were all the wheel bolts tight and properly seated?

Lost motion is where a driven shaft has slack before being connected to the next shaft. Term used to be used with steering systems having a gearbox at the end of the steering column. In your case I wondered if the drive shafts or coupling were worn. Easily checked by grabbing a drive shaft and trying to turn it in both directions. Repeat on the other drive shaft and compare. Alternatively, raise each front wheel in turn and rotate the road wheel back and forth looking for slack.

Have you checked for lost motion in the drive shafts?

Sounds like it is a temperature sensor problem. I assume yours is a Climatronic model.

As you can see from the photos in the two threads where I reported the bulb problem, the cause is not so much the heat but the vibration of the plastic tray on which the lights are mounted. However I agree that using fogs as DRLs avoids or reduces the effects the vibration on the bulbs as the fog light bulbs are contained more rigidly in a larger mass. I find cornering lights is a better use of the fog lights.

Like mine, yours was shipped from the factory with the lamps installed and wired up but needing a 2 part software change to get them working. The first part is to tell the controller that you want to activate them. I used the Carista app connecting to the diagnostic port through an ELM 327 unit via bluetooth or wifi (depending on which version you chose to purchase). Equally you could use the popular but expensive VCDS software (and there may be others). Look at the VCDS pages on Briskoda where there is a map showing members willing to do the work for you for a few beer tokens. Thirdly, a VAG dealership could do it at dealer rates. Having had the activation done, the next step is shown in your driver's handbook. It shows how to turn the driving lights on and off at will using one of the stalks on the steering column. Just a bit confusing is that they call this activation rather than on/off. One final point is that if you choose the Carista app you will also be able to activate other comfort features such as cornering lights, coming home lights, auto turn on of the rear wiper when reversing if the front wiper is on and much more. The list is on the Carista page for your model. Take a look but I am told cost is now much more than the small price I paid as an early adopter.

Yes we get Lidl and Aldi products in the UK but specials are seasonal and sell out fast. One thing to watch is that booster type chargers (and my ALDI charger, say in the small print that the battery should be removed from the car before charging as it can take to battery over 16V during "conditioning".

Take out your headlight and look at the part number (depends on auto headlights). Enter this info into google and make a search. prices range from £11 to £34. The latter is a guaranteed genuine part. Here is one example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291986233110?hash=item43fbbc5716%3Ag%3AL6sAAOSwFTNa1wuh&fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.6+TDI|Plat_Gen%3AMK+II|Cars+Year%3A2009|Model%3AOctavia|Variant%3ADiesel+Hatch|Engine%3A1598cc+77KW+105HP+CAYC|BodyStyle%3AFWD+II+1Z3 and a European source (Skoda Parts): https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/headlight-switch-15137/skoda/octavia/octavia-1z3/31590-1-6-tdi

The switch is relatively cheap (in the UK or on-line from Prague) so why not just replace it? The injector failure is unlikely to be related to a light switch failure.

Those older threads, from memory, show how to remove the trim to get to the back of the socket to remove it - with a caution about short cable lengths.

There are old threads that show how to wire a packaged 12 volt to USB converter to a switched supply in the cabin fuse box. The USB socket is mounted in one of the spare blanks below the radio.

Could be the motor brushes have worn down or they are sticking in the brush holders.

I have brochure for my 2012 car and it only list the Classic, Ambiente and Elegance models plus L+K and VRs. As 2012/2013 was a changeover model year, I suggest you look for a sales brochure for 2013 models. It will show pictures and names for each trim option if it follows the design of the 2012 brochure. Take a look at the manuals and brochures pinned thread at the top of the page for a start.

If your mechanic is suspecting bent valves it suggests that the timing chain has failed. Normally there is other damage as well in that situation. If you are in the UK you may get more selling the car for spares and putting the money towards a better car. If you are elsewhere then you will have to investigate your local market.

Well at least you now have access to the passenger door which is progress. Take off the door card and see if the cable pull has come off the inside door opening lever or at the other end. It is easy to make this mistake here when putting the door card back. The fact that there is no door open icon on the dash says that either the signal wire is broken/poor contact and you still have some electrical cable issues. Final thought is the microswitch in the door lock that produces the door open icon amongst other things is no longer functioning. If so, replacing the mechanism is the best way out, but be sure you have explored all other possibilities first.

It would seem from another forum that fuel consumption was worse after The Fix, and only cured by going back to the original software - a difficult task. My own non fixed car mirrors your consumption but I only get over 70 mpg when on long summer journeys where most of the time I am forced to keep to ~50mph with no interuptions.

Did your car having the dreaded emissions fix? I am guessing not.

Worth checking the wires for breaks in the drivers door flexible conduit between the door and body. Some of those wires go the passenger door.

Don't confuse no load battery voltage with the on load current capability. If in doubt then get a free battery test from Halfrauds or similar where they use a high current checker. You will get unrelated warnings on the dash if the battery voltage is too low while cranking. It is caused by the voltage being too low for the electronics.

This is the warning that there is a battery problem. It can also come on if you are parked and using the battery - in my case listening the radio for some hours. Normally a sign of an old failing battery that cannot hold its charge overnight due to high self discharge.

Revs are limited on petrol and diesel models to avoid damage when revving in park or neutral.

I have no experience with the seat adjustment on Mk2 Octavias but some on the Mk1. I would suggest there are some similarities. On the Mk 1, the knob itself was a poor fit on the metal part behind and often became loose and spun free or came off. Another cause was the shaft working in a worn "bearing" at the other end to the knob shaft. This is all a long time ago for me but I suggest you look in the Mk 1 forum for clues and fixes then see if they could apply to your car.