pikpilot

But have you checked the tracking since you did the work on the ball joints?

Sounds like it is sending out a distress signal in morse code!

There are videos on Youtube showing how to replace just the switch unit and also the whole assembly. Plus there has been recent posts on similar topics. Search using google followed by briskoda and your query.

I have the same engine as the OP and the fuel pump in the tank can be heard running for about 5 to10 seconds on switching on the ignition. I wait until it has turned off before starting as otherwise it cranks for longer.

I use a good app on my phone to monitor the dpf. It connects via bluetooth or wifi (your choice) to a OBD2 reader in the diagnostic port. It is called VAG DPF. There is also a free "lite" version with less features. I thought this might be useful to you as it allows you to monitor the oil ash residue, soot mass both measured and calculated. Here is a photo of my last use just after a regeneration. The bar across the top of the data fields and the 25% number show that my DPF is 25% full [at 73,000 miles].

Usually caused by corrosion on the ground wire connection but unlikely here as other lights are working. Some reports of poor contact to the bulb in the holder. I suggest you take out the whole light assembly and bench test using a multimeter or continuity tester with the bulb in place. Many suggestions for your fault code on the net including: https://obd2pros.com/dtc-codes/p1505/ and: https://www.engine-codes.com/p1505.html Also maybe it needs a throttle body clean.

It is probably the switch at the end of the barrel. Easy to change if you follow the video. There is a thread on here with everything you need to know. Do a search over the last 12 months. Saves having a different key for the ignition and door unless you change the blades on the two remote keys.

You have done exceptionally well by not having to change the alarm unit in 17 years. Mine failed at about 9 years and other reports are less than this. Your symptoms agree with what others have reported. Some people have cut the alarm case open and replaced the Varta cells to repair the alarm. Some have found damage to the printed circuit board by cell leakage. I would recommend biting the bullet and getting a new (expensive) alarm unit. There are cheap second hand units on a well known auction site but my suspicion is they not much better than your current alarm.

It controls the temperature and humidity. Also decides on the best place on the air unless you manually press the air buttons. It is not a bang-bang system as you suggest but a constantly variable system. The air conditioning compressor is not an on or off unit and in fact is driven continuously with the displacement being varied by a swash plate. It is a very efficient system and I cannot see any difference in mpg between and auto and off except in exceptionally hot weather. I can't prove it but it appears to put the air into recirculation mode if you are following a car with a dirty exhaust.

Just as I was about to say Ken. Climatronics means that it also controls the humidity. It does it by cooling the incoming air and then re-heats it to the temperature you have set. The cooling of the air causes the moisture in the air to be removed as liquid water in the drain pipe rather than on your windows. Just put the unit on AUTO and set your required temperature. It may blow a little cold until the coolant temperature settles down but it will demist the windows quickly and long term remove moisture trapped in the fabric of the cabin.

Check the earth connection (brown wire) where it connects to an earth stud in the boot on the passenger side. It gets corroded and makes poor connection if water enters the boot - usually because the washer solution is too weak in winter allowing it freeze and causing the water pipe in the boot to pop off at the pipe connector. Clean up all the connections at the body earth stud. The lights are connected there too.

When self-checking/resetting. you will just notice the flaps cycling one by one and other odd things to do with the Climatronic unit such as fan speed cycling - also depends on your variant. If all your faults have cleared then it was probably the end positions of one or more flap servos needed resetting. Lost end positions could be caused by a nylon gear slipping by a tooth and now recalibrated by your actions. For the running problem I don't recognise the fault code as a VAG code. I use Carista too for diagnostics. Are you using the Carista software and set it for your particular car with CAYC engine or just using the Carista plug-in with 3rd party software? Your picture does not look like my data from Carista.

The self test is shown for two variants in the thread "Left side windscreen air vent not blowing" on 11 December.

Next step in easy fault finding is to remove the light assembly and check for correct operation of the light switch using a multimeter. You could also check by swapping the light unit with the one in the rear if it is the same.

Sounds like worn brushes in the fan motor. Sometimes they touch the commutator, sometimes they don't.

Could it be the nylon gears have stripped and rubbing over each other? Worn gears is the most common mode of failure.

Mine was like this after a garage gave my car a free clean! They had used a silicone spray on the plastic dashboard and the overspray was hard to remove from the glass with a cloth. I tried many glass cleaning products but the one that worked on the overspray (a silicone product?) was methylated spirits.

When you replaced the glove box you may have trapped a wire which then became a short to ground or disturbed a damaged wire.. A fuse will have blown so first find the blown fuse and then look in your handbook to see what circuits it protects. Check the functioning of all listed circuits as a check. The headlights are switched electronically but there are fuses in the engine bay F16 and F26 (see page 226 or thereabouts in your handbook for fuse location) [Note each fuse protects one headlight and the opposite rear light so check rear lights too] You will probably have to remove the glove box to find the fault before replacing fuses.

I had my battery replaced in April and it came with a warranty that states "the car must be driven for a minimum of 2000 miles per year or pro rata to avoid sulphation of the battery." I mention this in case it has had low usage in the past.

How far down the expansion tank?

Many possibilities so you need to do some diagnoses. 1) Is the coolant at the correct level in the expansion tank when cold? 2) Does this level fall when hot a) at 2000 rpm and b) sustained 2500 rpm with a significantly hot engine?

I am guessing that the small cover over the key slot has either stuck or even broken away and obstructing the full width of the key slot. Try some light lubricant first. If that doesn't work take a careful close look to see what is blocking the slot. Then use a thinner key or a small pick to try to pull out the obstruction.

It has failed to start because it has detected a major problem with the electric power steering and so inhibited starting as this is a safety issue. However, the power steering "fault" is quite often a failed or failing battery. Check your battery voltage is not too low and if so, charge it and try again. When was the battery last changed?

The Carista app will also allow you to change the unlocking you prefer on 1 or 2 presses or just driver's door/all or with/without the boot.

Sounds like the microswitch in the lock mech has failed or not being moved sufficiently/stuck.