pikpilot

The fact that the manual switch works says to me that the convenience control module is working. One common problem for the central locking is broken wires is the cable trunk you see when the door is open. it connect wiring between the body and door. This carries power and signals to the drivers door locking system which also talks to other doors. Check all the wires for breaks in the trunking. Also, with the ignition on, open each door in turn and see if a door open icon is displayed on the dash.

Does the lock/unlock switch near the gear lever still work?

As Warrier 193 said, plus I had this after along period of rain with the car standing outside. With this condition I was also able to affect which dim lights came on by switching on other loads such as the turn signals. It may have been caused by moisture in the comfort control module underneath the dash and on the right of the steering column. I fixed it by leaving all the windows open on a dry warm day. Problem solved. Here is my previous post from 2021 with photos I had exactly this and more at the end of last week. With handbrake on, ignition on and lights on I got the ASR and red coolant over temperature warning on dimly. With handbrake off, ign on and lights on I got the LH turn light and ASR dimly lit. With lights off and handbrake on I got the ASR and over high coolant lights still on. This problem was after a week of strong wind and rain and a long time of no use. I suspected it was water somewhere as the whole car was "steamed up" as soon as I closed the door and was reluctant to clear with a fibre cloth. [My car never normally has condensation as I use the climate control even in winter to keep the humidity low] So, the fix: First I left the bonnet open for the whole of a sunny day in case it was water around the ecu - no change Secondly, on the dryer sunny day of Saturday, I left all the windows open with the car locked. When I checked in the evening everything was back to normal and has stayed that way. Conclusion: I believe the very high humidity, (perhaps I have water leak somewhere) resulted in water droplets forming across terminals in the electronics inside the car. See photos for details. Note the camera aperture is set to make the dim light more visible. Edited 1 March, 2021 by pikpilot

Yes, it is not obvious as the index is not that exhaustive. Fuses and Light Bulbs is a section in General Maintenance around page 212 and onward. A5_Octavia 2_OwnersManual end 2011.pdf

If you don't have a a hand book you can download one for your model year from the sticky posts at the the top of this section. The hand book shows, in the fuses and lights section: front interior lighting C10W Reading lights W5W (as posted by Mike the Thinker) Rear interior lighting C10W

It thinks you are driving with the handbrake on. Check the switch by the handbrake and its wiring.

Don't change things without proving where the fault lies. An imobiliser will give a dashboard warning plus it will allow the car to start and run for about 5 to 10 seconds before turning off the engine. Glow plugs are not needed at this time of year, even in Scotland. They may be faulty but not the cause of your problem. First port of call should be why the starter is not working. Does it have a supply whilst you are trying to crank? Ditto for the solenoid supply on the starter - the small cable. Check the earth cable from the battery to the body near the starter. Starter motors can fail so don't rule it out.

As I am sure you know, we can't judge without more information. But the main thing is condition, condition, condition. And I don't just mean body work and interior but regular servicing, MOT comments and failures (.gov mot page for the registration), fault codes, warranty type offered etc. I think the price is about right for a reasonable condition car at a good dealer with decent warranty.

I took this to be a typo for bearing but the mechanic must have been guessing as I still don't think this is the right solution.

There are a number of reports in your chart of intermittant low voltage. Some previous posting have said this can be caused by a corroded earth cable or by corrosion on the rear of the printed circuit board near the battery that distributes power around the car. To check the later, disconnect the battery then remove the printed the circuit board to view the other side. This is the board next the battery that contains additional fuses. Some have also found corrosion on the fuseholders. In view of the rotting leaves in the bonnet area then this is my best guess but corrosion can occur anywhere including earthing points and exposed cable ends.

It comes from the Climatronic unit. Not all models have Climatronic, particularly in other countries.

I recently had a good experience of the AA when an injector failed. AA cover also provided through a bank (a different one); perhaps we get a better service? I would be interested to know what your failure was as we both have the same 1.6 TDi CR engine.

Typical sign of a failed resistor as I posted before. There are previous posts on this forum describing how to fix it. \try searching in your search engine using "briskoda octavia2 plus your search terms"

What happens when you change the blower speed between each of its (5?) positions? If you get air only when set to maximum speed then the resistor has failed. If there is no air at all in any positions of the air switch then the blower motor has failed. Both component are behind the glove box.

I am not sure that is always true because the seatbelt warning comes up on my car if front passengers forget to belt up.

It would be useful to other readers if you could give us your engine code as not all engines have a concentric slave clutch cylinder You can find the engine code on a sticker in the spare wheel well. Thanks.

Just for completeness here is my method of getting the fuse position right. Sit sideways on the drivers seat and hold up a mirror that reflects the fuse location at the end of the end of the dash. The reflection in the mirror then looks like the diagram for a LHD car, as shown in handbook.

I am not sure there is a fuse. It may be fed directly from the centrol control module. So I looked at my 2011 build estate and it is exactly as in your photo - no FS18 I assume you wanted to check the fuse as a first step in finding out why it is not working. Rear wiper failure frequently comes up in this forum. Do a search to see what others have found. The most common failure on the hatch is caused by the fact that washer fluid is fed through the centre of the wiper shaft. Corrosion can damage the bearing or fluid leaks into the unit. On the estate, it more likely to be the motor itself as it has a dedicated fluid jet above the rear window. Mine (estate) failed due to sticking brushes in the brush holders. It is a design fault. As the spring pressure on the brush reduces as the brushes shorten with wear, the spring can longer press the brush against the comutator. I fixed mine by slightly sanding the sides of the brushes so they were able to move up and down the holders freely. Most people just change the wiper unit.

Common problem. Unless you are an electronics engineer with the things you need for changing small surface mount devices, remove the whole cluster unit and send or take it to a specialist cluster repair company. Some even fix it while you wait. You can find more info by searching this forum. Here is one cluster repair company: https://cartronix.co.uk/product-category/manufacturers/citroen/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwi_exBhA8EiwA_kU1MrB2QnSgLU9EfbbmFnx3bOOXXJvkhD1Tw_L_Qkkh8oxJHpcUx0MKsBoCR58QAvD_BwE

I did not comment on that problem but one situation is that the nylon gear or motor on the mixer flap has failed. The output air temperature consists of a mix of cold air from the A/C and hot from the heater matrix. If you know how (use google) then by pressing three A/C buttons (which vary by model) you can read out out on the Climatronic displays all the data from sensors etc. Another sign of a failed motor/stripped nylon gear on one of the air direction flaps. Failed flaps usually produce a fault code but not always. As an aside I recommend keeping the A/C on all year round as it will condense out the water vapour on humid days when it is raining (and clears window misting fast). It not like the old bang-bang systems so additional fuel consumption is tiny outside of hot days. Humidity control does not work near freezing conditions but humidy is low anyway when cold outside.

When did you last have the A/C checked? Lack of refrigerant creeps up on you without you noticing until a really hot day.

The aux coolant pump operates after you turn off the engine to run coolant around the engine for a short time to avoid hot spots. You need to read the stored fault codes to give us a clue for further diagnosis. It will help too if you tell us your engine code (on a sticker in the spare wheel well) and what steps you have taken so far.

The double pull is a safety measure on the INSIDE handle and is only active when the engine is running. Does your door open on one pull of the inside handle with the engine off? If not it suggests that your fitter may need to use VCDS or similar software to set it up correctly. Perhaps similar for the outside handle but I have never heard of that before.

Tyre Pressure Sensor !? The usual source of your problem is a sticking variable vane control disc in the turbo resulting in overboost when requesting high torque (such as going uphill at low or medium revs). You can temporally fix the symptom by stopping, turning off the engine then restarting. Long term replace the turbo. Short term remove the turbo and mechanically clean it or use oven cleaner spray to chemically clean it [often called the Mr Muscle treatment. Can be done in situ on some engines but there are risks to emission control parts]. Can I suggest you add your engine code (found on a sticker in the spare wheel well) and your location in your profile.

I agree it looks like a faulty battery but the same condition can appear with a good battery if there is a poor connection (including earth) anywhere between the battery and the starter. Look for corroded crimps and signs of black copper where the cable(s) is crimped and obviously, loose connrctions. When you attempted to start, did the starter turn over? If not then look at the small wire going to the starter motor.