pikpilot

First thing to do is determine if the fault is in the car or the remote. Have you tried the second key? Can you lock and unlock the car using the lock switch by the gear lever/12V socket whilst sitting in the car? [Before trying this it might be wise to leave a window open]. Can you lock and unlock using the key in the driver's door lock?

For the benefit of members who find this thread in the future, can you say how you fixed it please.

Glad you found it. It is the wire that supplies power to the top group of fuses as we suspected.

Here is a post from another current thread. This is exactly the type of fault I was referring to in my posts above. Update: Issue was investigated by Medlicott Motors (CW12 1NJ, Congleton) and eventually found some evidence of copper oxidisation on contacts inside the engine compartment fuse box. Cleaned up and put back together. So far the error has not repeated so this may be the root cause. 👏😃

The function of each fuse location varies between models and years. However your handbook will tell you what each fuse is protecting. If you don't have a handbook then you can download it from the sticky thread above the current threads. The fact that you have no power in a cluster of fuses at the top suggests that all of these are supplied through a larger fuse or relay elsewhere. Please post here the functions assigned to the circled fuses as a guide to find the source. [If you want to try my guess first after looking at a generic wiring diagram, it is that relay 1 has failed on the fuse panel under the bonnet. It supplies power to what is called Terminal 15 (a supply point for many of the fuses in the cabin fusebox).]

Purely as a guess, if similar logical thought has been used as on the door windows then you need to close the hatch with the switch or remote and keep holding the button down for a few seconds after it closes. Immediately repeat the process for the raise button and again hold for a few seconds. This process will teach the logic of the stop positions If that does not work then look at friction in all parts as maximum load is when the hatch is just before horizontal.

These symptoms are typical of low volts from the battery. I know you said you had tried another battery without success but was that a known good battery and fully charged? Low voltage is also caused by poor supply or earth wiring. For example corroded cables, corrosion of the connection at the main fuse box (the one in the engine bay) or earthing points. That says to me that you have a loss of power at the fuse/connections soon after the battery. So the first thing to do is use a voltmeter to measure the volts at the battery initially, at the battery while cranking (if it will) and then at various points around the car such as at each fuse box. If ok then follow through to the other side of the fuses to find dead fuses. In particular look at the vertical fuses in the engine bay. It needs a logical systematic approach so that we can conjecture on the cause of the problem based on further evidence. My guess so far is that it a failing battery or corrosion on the main fuse box printed circuit board or connections. One final point on safety. A battery contains a lot of energy. If you are not happy about using a voltmeter etc on something that can cause a fire, then ask a competent electrician.

No, the heat is taken from the coolant by a heat exchanger. I agree that the likely cause is oil in the heater matrix but don't rule out a failure of a flap servo in the heater unit. Search for climatronic (if you have it) test. This is done by pressing several of the buttons on the panel to initiate a full test and reset of the unit. It should also report a failed part as a code number. The buttons to press vary between models and years. Have you tried manually changing the settings? air distribution? temperature setting? recirculation etc? This may pick up a failed function.

The glow plug is not needed when the engine is warm so the fault code is not shown. A likely cause is the cable to glow plug 4. Check with a voltmeter that the supply is getting to that glow plug and to one of the others when someone else turns on the ignition only, for the first time when cold. The reason for checking against a known good plug is that at this time of year the glow plugs are often not required and will not be energised.

It all depends...... As a guide, my dpf is 43% ash after 76,000 miles.

As you quoted mileage in kms I assume your not in Staffordshire. Specifications vary from country to country. As you wanted an estate (which was my choice too) make sure you get one with a flat floor in the back. In the UK this was standard in the Elegance trim level but optional on some others and in other countries. Folding the rear seats and then unclipping and removing the rear back rests gives almost six feet of load length, most of which is level with the bottom of the boot aperture. Personally I would not entertain any petrol car with a 1.8 or 2.0 TSI engine - see sticky thread above. For the diesels there is a choice of engine depending on age. Certain 2 litre diesel plus the 1.6 litre diesel were the subject of the "dieselgate" scandal. New engine control software (plus an air straightener on the 1.6) was found to reduce reliability. The fix was said to be mandatory when in fact it was optional. I resisted the pressure to have mine fixed. Some owners had the software reversed but the majority did not. Many sold their cars and same waited a few years until VW paid out compensation. The biggest reliability issue was failure of the EGR valve. Some people had it replaced several times under warranty/goodwill. The EGR is not expensive but its location requires many labour hours to replace so a big bill. I suggest you spend time reading past threads in this forum. If you find a car you like, then note the engine code on the sticker in or near the spare wheel well. Armed with the code, do a targeted search of past threads.

I suggest this is not the place unless you have the soldering skills to connect to the copper tracks. A better place might be to connect to the 12V cigarette type connector, if you have one, in the boot. You could connect to the rear of the socket (brown wire is -ve) and hide the tracker behind the boot trim. Make sure you have a 1A fuse in the wire between the socket and the tracker as this is a 30A supply that would otherwise destroy (cable melt/fire) the tracker if there was a fault. One advantage is that this is always live so you can track the car with the ignition off. But it is essential to disconnect the battery before making any changes as the supply is always live.

For the benefit of future readers, where exactly did you squirt the WD40, internally through a hole? just on the visible mechanism? or somewhere else?

In the Mk1 it was in the door lock mechanism inside the door and probably the same on the Mk2

A small wedge of felt also works.

There are two common causes. 1) there is a wire break in the rubber tube between the body and the door (the "hose" you see when you open the door). 2) there is failure of the door open sensor (microswitch?) or a fault in the door control module in the door. Warning: if only the driver's door is opened and then closed and the door open icon has not displayed, the car will self lock after about a two minutes with you inside. Make sure you have the key with you as you will have to turn the ignition on to make the doors unlock. Ask me how I know!

I don't know for sure about the 1.9 PD engine but on my Mk1 Octavia (1.9 ASV engine) it was a common problem. The cause was because VAG had chosen to allow a cold engine to start at any revs but for a warm/hot engine it was necessary to exceed a certain higher revs before allowing a start. Result was it would start easy first thing on a cold day but not start when warm because a failing battery could not crank the engine at the required higher revs. The PD engine was around at the same time as the ASV so I suggest the similar software was use. The fix was to replace the battery.

You only need to buy the electrical rotary switch that is mounted on the mechanical part of the ignition switch barrel. There are post on here with explanations of how to do it. Do a search using google with Briskoda as one of the search terms.

I had a similar warning which was intermittent for months on one of my number plate bulbs. Changed the bulb and problem has not come back. Looking at the bulb afterwards, it looked like the filament had broken but would still make connection between the broken ends for most of the time.

Looks like your garage has changed the options when setting up the opening/closing of windows etc. members with VCDS will make the changes for beer tokens [see VCDS in other pages of Briskoda for map of people near you] You can also change the options yourself through the ODB2 diagnostic port and Carista software (free one off trial available most of the time). Here is a list of some of the options you can change on your year and model: Locking: Beep & Blink Beep when alarm is armed Yes No Beep when locking with remote Yes No Beep when unlocking with remote Yes No Beep when locking with key Yes No Beep when unlocking with key Yes No Blink turn signals when alarm is armed Yes No Blink turn signals when locking with remote Yes No Blink turn signals when unlocking with remote Yes No Blink turn signals when locking with key Yes No Blink turn signals when unlocking with key Yes No

I saw this post below on another forum but I know there are threads on this forum too so do a search. 2.0TSI Catastrophic engine failure, owners be aware.

It would be helpful if you could post your engine code. You can find it on a sticker near or in the spare wheel well.

I believe that all elegance models have climatronic air conditioning and humidy control. The ECON push button is part of this. You can download a copy of the drivers handbook for your car from the sticky thread at the start of the page for this model. This fully explains how to use the climatronic system.

No, I was refering to the chewed cable in the photo.

If it looks to you as though water has got into the cable then replace it. Major sign to look for is the internal multistrand copper conductor turning black.