pikpilot

As toot says, observe the minimum and max levels of the coolant. It is there for a purpose. If you fill with coolant right to the cap, you have no space for it to expand into as it gets hot. That is why it is called an expansion tank and relies on the compressibility of the air above the liquid. Don't top up with water. Use the correct coolant for your car such as G13 and variants.

The maximum pressure is set by a valve in the cap on the expansion tank. Try another cap. Common reason for air/gasses escaping from the cap valve is a failing head gasket that allows cylinder gasses to reach the cooling system and pressurise it. Check the coolant level when hot by looking at the outside of the tank and also when cold by removing cap. 1) Is the hot level very low? 2) does the cold coolant level rise significantly as you take off the cap?

Does the whistling noise go up and down in frequency as engine revs change? Worse still if sounds like a police siren as the revs rise and fall. If so, the bearings on the new turbo are on their way out.

One of my puddle lights in an indicator failed. I bought a new bulb and failed to remove the glass as it was held in very tight. So I asked a Skoda garage to replace the bulb when the car was in for other work. They found the bulb had not failed but the software set up had changed! They recoded it and it has been fine now for the last two years. No charge made either! I mention this in case you find your old bulb has not blown.

You can download one from a sticky in this forum. See the stickies at the start. Skoda have introduced a refreshed section on their site which allows you to download any handbook for any model past and up to the latest models

You will have a chart in the Handbook which gives the information for your vehicle. Look for Bulbs in the index. Here is mine which shows all turn signals are PY21W except for the side turn indicators (leds):- Parking lights W5W/W5W BL Daylight driving lights PY21W SLL/LEDa) Front headlight Halogen headlight Xenon headlight Turn signals PY21W Fog lights H8/HB4a) a) Octavia RS, Octavia Scout Light unit (Octavia) Bulb Reversing light P21W Turn signals PY21W Twin filament light bulb for the brake lights and tail lights P21/4W Twin filament bulbs for the rear fog light and rear parking light. P21/4W Parking lights W3W Rear light unit (Estate car) Bulb, Reversing lights, brake lights, parking light and rear fog light P21W Turn signals PY21W Parking lights W3W Side turn signal lights LED Licence plate light C5W 3. Brake light LED Entry lighting W5W front interior lighting C10W Reading lights W5W Rear interior lighting C10W Luggage compartment light W5W Door warning light C5W Lighting in storage compartment C3W

Glad you got it fixed.

A few months ago I was helping a friend to find to a water leak in the boot of his Golf. It turned out this a common problem on that car due to failure of air vent shown in your picture. I have not heard of this as a source of water in the boot on the Octavia (which is based on the Golf). The dust on your vent suggests it is not leaking BUT on my friend's car the vent needed resealing to the body. Worth having a look.

LEDs are in fact capable of being illumined dimly with only a small current being drawn through a high resistance. When opening the rear hatch the current is cut off by the microswitch in the lock mechanism. So, the question is where is the high resistance that connect to the 12V source? The usual reason is a water leak bridging two cables. Corrosion product can do the same. Look in the left hand side of the boot behind the trim as this is where most of the wiring goes. Look also at the boot lock as there is wiring there to the microswitch. In fact, follow the wiring right back to controller. Finally, a failing transistor/FET in the controller can do the same. It's a treasure hunt but by using a modern multimeter and common sense you will find it.

and also watch the door open icons on the dashboard through the window as you open and close the doors. Any delay or intermittent behavior is a sign of a broken wire or failing microswitch in the door.

There are many generic makes of reader on the the net, usually marked ELM 327. In a search the first I found was this:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Torque-Pro-Elm-327-Bluetooth/dp/B01AC7I7BO/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_2/260-9823324-9610113?pd_rd_w=cBCkK&content-id=amzn1.sym.79b812bf-5c8b-4c0c-851c-784423adaff5&pf_rd_p=79b812bf-5c8b-4c0c-851c-784423adaff5&pf_rd_r=P4QW9A2J4330N8YHM1ZK&pd_rd_wg=pwNrW&pd_rd_r=4a97f935-f610-44f2-afa3-5d654409010d&pd_rd_i=B01AC7I7BO&psc=1 There are cheaper ones if you look. I have two, one with a wifi connection for use with an ipad and the other is bluetooth for use with my android phone. You will need to run software apps to interpret the results. I use Carista for reading and resetting fault codes and for making software changes to add new features to the car. I also use VAG DPF (for checking the ash content and regeneration in the DPF) and Torque lite for fun There are many other free or low cost apps in the play stores.

The trip information in memory 2 will give you long term mpg over its recorded miles as long as data has not reached maximum and rolled over to zero.

I bought an OBD2 reader that plugs into the diagnostic port and then connects to a variety of software packages on a laptop or ipad. Much more flexible and you are not dependant on the interpretation in the scanner - and much cheaper.

Check your battery voltage with a multimeter (if you have one) first thing in the morning and before turning on the ignition. The only time I had this chime, it was low battery volts. It could be the alternator is not producing enough charge or you have a low constant discharge when the car is locked. To check the possibility, connect jump start leads between your battery and the battery on another car. Start the other car before starting yours.

Have you looked up this code on the Ross-Tech wiki? If not, here is link to their forum and posts by others with the same code issue. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=001542

These two links show more information on your fault codes and further links to people who had the same problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=p0087 Possible fuel supply problem. https://www.ross-tech.com/Search-Results.html?q=p0121 Possible throttle position sensor fault. With the ignition on and the engine not running, it is normal to have the battery light on as it indicates the alternator is not charging the battery. It should go off as soon as the engine starts. The red steering wheel icon may be an indication that battery has low charge - too low a voltage to run the power steering. When did you last change the battery? It may be its capacity is getting low. Give it a charge before trying again.

Let us know if they fail or not after a year or so. The location of DRLs is subject to much vibration of the lamp. That is why the special long life filaments were used ex factory. Leds should not suffer as much - it depends on the construction.

I doubt you would get a spare board. Best bet would be a motor from a scrap car dealer but check part numbers are the same as I suspect later units may have electronics with more features. First I would check your old board for sign of corrosion or dry joints (look for cracks in the solder or dull/crystalline appearance). Resolder as appropriate.

I suspect the problem is that the alarm module has a dud internal battery, particularly if it was not changed since new. With the fuse in place it will get a supply from the car and give an alarm to indicate it is faulty.

The sticker is near the spare wheel.

There are three main engines of different power in the family. CAYA,CAYB and CAYC rising in increasing power. CAYA is in the Polo. Here is the full list of specifications:- 55 kW (75 PS; 74 bhp) at 4,000 rpm; 195 N⋅m (144 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYA (Polo and Fabia only) 55 kW (75 PS; 74 bhp) at 3,000-4,000 rpm; 225 N⋅m (166 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,250 rpm — CAYE (Caddy only) 66 kW (90 PS; 89 bhp) at 4,200 rpm; 230 N⋅m (170 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYB 75 kW (102 PS; 101 bhp) at 4,400 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYD (Caddy only) 77 kW (105 PS; 103 bhp) at 4,400 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 1,500-2,500 rpm — CAYC 85 kW (116 PS; 114 bhp) at 4,400 rpm; 250 N⋅m (184 lbf⋅ft) at 2,000-2,500 rpm — CEKA (Mexico only)

You don't give your engine code but I remember a thread on here about confusion on which fuel filter to fit. There were two type/makes, one of which caused something similar if I remember correctly. Do a google search using this forum as the first search terms followed by your own query. Perhaps this reply will jog the memory of others.

Yes, there is on mine.

Does it go off immediately you lock it or after a short wait? If the latter then it has set the alarm system to active but then picks up the fact that one of the sensors shows an alarm condition such as an open boot. Before and after you lock the car, check the dash display for an open door, boot or bonnet icon.

If the resistor stack has burnt out/gone open circuit then only the highest speed will work. It is found near the blower fan.