pikpilot

The self test is shown for two variants in the thread "Left side windscreen air vent not blowing" on 11 December.

Next step in easy fault finding is to remove the light assembly and check for correct operation of the light switch using a multimeter. You could also check by swapping the light unit with the one in the rear if it is the same.

Sounds like worn brushes in the fan motor. Sometimes they touch the commutator, sometimes they don't.

Could it be the nylon gears have stripped and rubbing over each other? Worn gears is the most common mode of failure.

Mine was like this after a garage gave my car a free clean! They had used a silicone spray on the plastic dashboard and the overspray was hard to remove from the glass with a cloth. I tried many glass cleaning products but the one that worked on the overspray (a silicone product?) was methylated spirits.

When you replaced the glove box you may have trapped a wire which then became a short to ground or disturbed a damaged wire.. A fuse will have blown so first find the blown fuse and then look in your handbook to see what circuits it protects. Check the functioning of all listed circuits as a check. The headlights are switched electronically but there are fuses in the engine bay F16 and F26 (see page 226 or thereabouts in your handbook for fuse location) [Note each fuse protects one headlight and the opposite rear light so check rear lights too] You will probably have to remove the glove box to find the fault before replacing fuses.

I had my battery replaced in April and it came with a warranty that states "the car must be driven for a minimum of 2000 miles per year or pro rata to avoid sulphation of the battery." I mention this in case it has had low usage in the past.

How far down the expansion tank?

Many possibilities so you need to do some diagnoses. 1) Is the coolant at the correct level in the expansion tank when cold? 2) Does this level fall when hot a) at 2000 rpm and b) sustained 2500 rpm with a significantly hot engine?

I am guessing that the small cover over the key slot has either stuck or even broken away and obstructing the full width of the key slot. Try some light lubricant first. If that doesn't work take a careful close look to see what is blocking the slot. Then use a thinner key or a small pick to try to pull out the obstruction.

It has failed to start because it has detected a major problem with the electric power steering and so inhibited starting as this is a safety issue. However, the power steering "fault" is quite often a failed or failing battery. Check your battery voltage is not too low and if so, charge it and try again. When was the battery last changed?

The Carista app will also allow you to change the unlocking you prefer on 1 or 2 presses or just driver's door/all or with/without the boot.

Sounds like the microswitch in the lock mech has failed or not being moved sufficiently/stuck.

As toot says, observe the minimum and max levels of the coolant. It is there for a purpose. If you fill with coolant right to the cap, you have no space for it to expand into as it gets hot. That is why it is called an expansion tank and relies on the compressibility of the air above the liquid. Don't top up with water. Use the correct coolant for your car such as G13 and variants.

The maximum pressure is set by a valve in the cap on the expansion tank. Try another cap. Common reason for air/gasses escaping from the cap valve is a failing head gasket that allows cylinder gasses to reach the cooling system and pressurise it. Check the coolant level when hot by looking at the outside of the tank and also when cold by removing cap. 1) Is the hot level very low? 2) does the cold coolant level rise significantly as you take off the cap?

Does the whistling noise go up and down in frequency as engine revs change? Worse still if sounds like a police siren as the revs rise and fall. If so, the bearings on the new turbo are on their way out.

One of my puddle lights in an indicator failed. I bought a new bulb and failed to remove the glass as it was held in very tight. So I asked a Skoda garage to replace the bulb when the car was in for other work. They found the bulb had not failed but the software set up had changed! They recoded it and it has been fine now for the last two years. No charge made either! I mention this in case you find your old bulb has not blown.

You can download one from a sticky in this forum. See the stickies at the start. Skoda have introduced a refreshed section on their site which allows you to download any handbook for any model past and up to the latest models

You will have a chart in the Handbook which gives the information for your vehicle. Look for Bulbs in the index. Here is mine which shows all turn signals are PY21W except for the side turn indicators (leds):- Parking lights W5W/W5W BL Daylight driving lights PY21W SLL/LEDa) Front headlight Halogen headlight Xenon headlight Turn signals PY21W Fog lights H8/HB4a) a) Octavia RS, Octavia Scout Light unit (Octavia) Bulb Reversing light P21W Turn signals PY21W Twin filament light bulb for the brake lights and tail lights P21/4W Twin filament bulbs for the rear fog light and rear parking light. P21/4W Parking lights W3W Rear light unit (Estate car) Bulb, Reversing lights, brake lights, parking light and rear fog light P21W Turn signals PY21W Parking lights W3W Side turn signal lights LED Licence plate light C5W 3. Brake light LED Entry lighting W5W front interior lighting C10W Reading lights W5W Rear interior lighting C10W Luggage compartment light W5W Door warning light C5W Lighting in storage compartment C3W

Glad you got it fixed.

A few months ago I was helping a friend to find to a water leak in the boot of his Golf. It turned out this a common problem on that car due to failure of air vent shown in your picture. I have not heard of this as a source of water in the boot on the Octavia (which is based on the Golf). The dust on your vent suggests it is not leaking BUT on my friend's car the vent needed resealing to the body. Worth having a look.

LEDs are in fact capable of being illumined dimly with only a small current being drawn through a high resistance. When opening the rear hatch the current is cut off by the microswitch in the lock mechanism. So, the question is where is the high resistance that connect to the 12V source? The usual reason is a water leak bridging two cables. Corrosion product can do the same. Look in the left hand side of the boot behind the trim as this is where most of the wiring goes. Look also at the boot lock as there is wiring there to the microswitch. In fact, follow the wiring right back to controller. Finally, a failing transistor/FET in the controller can do the same. It's a treasure hunt but by using a modern multimeter and common sense you will find it.

and also watch the door open icons on the dashboard through the window as you open and close the doors. Any delay or intermittent behavior is a sign of a broken wire or failing microswitch in the door.

There are many generic makes of reader on the the net, usually marked ELM 327. In a search the first I found was this:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/Torque-Pro-Elm-327-Bluetooth/dp/B01AC7I7BO/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_2/260-9823324-9610113?pd_rd_w=cBCkK&content-id=amzn1.sym.79b812bf-5c8b-4c0c-851c-784423adaff5&pf_rd_p=79b812bf-5c8b-4c0c-851c-784423adaff5&pf_rd_r=P4QW9A2J4330N8YHM1ZK&pd_rd_wg=pwNrW&pd_rd_r=4a97f935-f610-44f2-afa3-5d654409010d&pd_rd_i=B01AC7I7BO&psc=1 There are cheaper ones if you look. I have two, one with a wifi connection for use with an ipad and the other is bluetooth for use with my android phone. You will need to run software apps to interpret the results. I use Carista for reading and resetting fault codes and for making software changes to add new features to the car. I also use VAG DPF (for checking the ash content and regeneration in the DPF) and Torque lite for fun There are many other free or low cost apps in the play stores.

The trip information in memory 2 will give you long term mpg over its recorded miles as long as data has not reached maximum and rolled over to zero.