pikpilot

When you get to install the new window glass, you will see that the glass is held in place by two plastic parts, one inside the other that go through a hole in the glass. When your glass was broken the plastic parts probably ended up in the bottom of the door. For once this proceess is described well (with photos) in the Haynes manual.

If you unlock the doors and then just do nothing (such as putting the key in the ignition or better still, turning it) the doors will deadlock automatically after about 10 minutes. Same happens if you only open a door with a failed microswitch (no door open indication on the display). Basically that is what JR said. The open door with the microswitch problem will lock when you close the door. It doesn't need to be a failed microswitch, just the signal not getting through: for example a broken wire in the body to door flexible conduit.

As it mostly seems to be a problem when turning, I suggest the cause is a slightly buckled wheel. Easy to check by raising each wheel in turn and checking the wheel rim on both sides while spinning the wheel.

There is no indication on the facelift dashboard to show that the DRLs are on.

It is so difficult to get to the EGR on 1.6 tdi CR engine (engine code CAYC) that people usually just replace it once they have gained access. If a garage does the work, most of the cost is labour.

Sounds like you have not activated the DRL in the ECU. The maxidot DRL ON/OFF is like the procedure shown in the handbook for those without Maxidot. The warning message is to tell you to activate in the ecu using a program such as VCDS, Carista or one of the many alternatives. Unfortunately the term "activate" is used for both procedures. See my posts on this thread dated 11 and 12 Sept 2019.

After disconnecting the battery, when you reconnect it will throw up the steering icon you show. The electric power steering will reset one you have driven a short distance with bends or gone lock to lock a couple of times.

Problem solved. I asked a Skoda garage to look at the problem of removing the headlights as the car was with them for an MOT. I had been soaking the mechanism in proper spray penetrating oil since my last post. The largest and strongest guy in the workshop eventually got each headlights to move. The fixed and sliding plates had been held together by rust. He cleaned away the rust and lubricated the parts. Now easy to pop out the headlight for a bulb change. No charge.

Not a common problem but I remember a post some years ago with a similar display. In that particular case the display had graphite-like contacts printed onto a rubber substrate and the contacts had dried out with age. In your case it is likely that moisture is the cause. If you have climate control, try driving for a few days with aircon on together with a high temperature set on the heater. This combination will warm up the cabin well whilst also reducing the humidity level in the car. (The handbook usually shows this as a fast method for "unsteaming" windows). Does not work below about 5C as the compressor will be inhibited.

A wet fuse box in the engine bay often causes corrosion of the printed circuit board, connection and the solder joints to the fuseholders. Glad you found the cause.

A At your mileage if this is first time the EGR has failed then you are doing well. I assume you did not have the dieselgate "update" or you would typically be on your third or fourth by now. Unfortunately, its location means there is a lot of labour charge to replace the EGR and cooler assembly.

But you loose the power steering and potentially power assisted braking unless you are very quick. I found that out the hard way.

My 2012 car has the same fuse location card ('768E) but it is overruled by the fuse location chart in the handbook. They seem to change some fuse locations dependant on model and engine variants so how do your known fuse locations compare with the driver's handbook? My handbook chart for fuses is:= 1 Diagnostic socket, Engine control unit, Electrical fuel pump 2 Control unit for ABS, ESP 3 Airbag 4 Heating, Air conditioning system, Reversing lights 5 Control unit for headlamp beam adjustment 6 Instrument cluster, control unit for automatic gearbox, control unit for electromechanical power steering, parking aid, Haldex coupling Instrument cluster, control unit for automatic gearbox, control unit for electromechanical power steering, parking aid, Haldex coupling 7 Not assigned 8 Not assigned 9 Not assigned 10 Not assigned 11 Not assigned 12 Central locking control unit 13 Diagnostic socket, Light switch 14 Control unit for automatic gearbox, Selector lever lock 15 Central control unit - interior lights 16 Climatronic 17 Not assigned 18 Rear window wiper 19 Control unit for trailer detection 20 Not assigned 21 Cornering lights for the left and right side 22 Air blower for Climatronic 23 Front power window 24 Cigarette lighter 25 Rear window heater. Rear window heater, Auxiliary heating (auxiliary heating and ventilation) 26 Power socket in the luggage compartment 27 Fuel pump relay, Injection valves (diesel engine) 28 Radio 29 Engine control unit, Crankcase ventilation heater 30 Control unit for automatic gearbox 31 Vacuum pump 32 Rear power window 33 Electric sliding/tilting roof 34 Control unit for convenience functions 35 Anti-theft alarm system 36 Headlight cleaning system 37 Front seat heating 38 Heated rear seats 39 Instrument cluster, windshield wiper lever and turn signal light lever 40 Air blower for heating and air conditioning 41 Not assigned 42 Not assigned 43 Towing device 44 Towing device 45 Towing device 46 Seat heaters 47 Relay for auxiliary heating 48 Phone 49 Light switch

Looks like your due a turbo clean or replacement. On my Mk1 Octavia I was able to send the turbo away to a specialist turbo cleaner company but I have never seen one advertising in recent years. So, look up Mr Muscle cleaning on this and the Mk1 forums or convince yourself that at the current mileage (you don't say what it is) it is probably worth replacing the turbo now for peace of mind.

A common cause for going into limp mode in a diesel car (you don't tell us your engine code) is the variable vane turbo becoming stuck by a build up of carbon deposits. If you stop the car when in limp mode, turn off the engine then restart it, the limp mode will be reset. If it happens again when requesting high torque (such when going uphill or when overtaking) then that is a good indication of the turbo problem I mentioned. You can buy an ELM 327 unit to plug into the diagnostic port for a small sum. This connects to your phone or laptop (via bluetooth or WiFi) to read fault codes via suitable apps. Use google and YouTube to educate yourself if you are new to this.

Have you done a fault code search which includes the climatronic system? You also check the climatronic system by pressing the right combination of its buttons. Search on You Tube for the right combination for your model. The hot air from the heater matrix is directed and mixed with cold air by a series of motor controlled flaps. You may have a stuck or failed flap motor. This is a separate issue to coolant pressure problems. The auxiliary water pump comes on for about 10-30 seconds after the engine has stopped to circulate coolant and so avoid hot spots in the system. You can hear it running if you are in a quiet place.

Drivers door is probably due to a failed microswitch in the door control unit in the door or a broken wire in the trunking between the door frame and the door. I am guessing that the gear lever release lock wont let you move into gear with a door open. Look in your handbook for manually bypassing the lock. Here is what mine says (with picture not copied): Selector lever-emergency unlocking Fig. 109 Selector lever-emergency unlocking In case of interruption of the power supply (e.g. flat vehicle battery, defective fuse) or defect of the selector lever lock, the selector lever can no longer be shifted from the position P in the normal way and the vehicle can no longer be moved. The selector lever must be unlocked in case of emergency. – Apply the handbrake firmly. – Open the storage compartment in front centre console or the front ashtray. – Carefully pull up the front left and right cover. – Pull up rear cover. – Use a finger to press the yellow plastic part in direction of arrow ⇒ fig. 109. – Simultaneously press the shiftlock button in the handle of the selector lever and shift the lever into the position N (if the selector lever is shifted again into the position P, it is once again blocked). 

You can also rule out a poor earth connection if you connect the negative of the jump battery to the engine block or similar instead of the battery negative. Do the interior lights dim excessively when cranking?

I know you said you charged the battery overnight but your symptoms are typical of a battery that reduces its terminal voltage too far when cranking. Try using jump leads to another car when starting just to rule out the battery.

This is from the Driver's Manual of a 2011 build car (such as mine built end of 2011 and first registered in March 2012). Not mentioned in the manual for 2012 build cars. Indicator light in the driver's door After locking the vehicle, the warning light flashes for around 2 seconds in quick succession, afterwards it begins to flash evenly at longer intervals. If the vehicle is locked and the safe securing system is not operating, the indicator light in the driver door flashes for about 2 seconds fast, goes out and starts to flash evenly at longer intervals after about 30 seconds. If the indicator light first of all flashes fast for about 2 seconds, afterwards lights up for about 30 seconds and then flashes slowly, there is a fault in the system of the central locking or the interior monitor. Visit a specialist garage to obtain assistance.

When the door open symbol does not come on it is usually a faulty lock mechanism (often failed microswitch as said by J.R) or a broken wire in the tube that takes wires from the body to the door ( the elephant's trunk you see when you open the door. A word of caution: when the drivers door open symbol is not showing, the car will auto lock after about ten minutes. Always carry the key with you.

Try asking the question in Briskoda VCDS Forum. Many more experienced users in that forum. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

Just turn off the radio before you disconnect the old battery and the radio will start once you turn it on again with the new battery in place.

Usually a poor contact with a bulb. I currently have a warning which Carista tell me is a failed number plate bulb. Both are lit whenever I look. Will remove the bulbs to clean the contacts when I have the time in the next week.

If you don't have the information display (like many Mk2, including mine) you can change the way the locking system works using the Carista app through the diagnostic port. This is the same as "a specialist garage" in the handbook quote above.