pikpilot

What is the code as read by your code reader? Check your code here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes Usual cause is a faulty sensor, broken wire or, less so, corrosion of the magnetic pulse ring. The code will tell you which wheel has the problem. There is no fuse directly associated with this circuit.

Assuming the 1.4 is similar to the 1.6, the electric water pump comes on after you have stopped the engine and runs for about 10 seconds in most instances. Its purpose is to avoid leaving hot spots in the engine. The motor is quiet but can be heard with non noisy backgrounds.

Sensible move. Better the car you know.............

I had an injector fail on mine over Xmas. Luckily I was able to imediately lift my foot off of the the accellerator (which then cuts the fuel supply) and coast into a layby. The car was not used again until after two injectors were replaced. Skoda price for one injector is over £600 without labour or VAT, I suggest you look around locally for quotes and also for a VAG specialist, if available. History shows that once injectors start to fail then you will end up replacing them all. I will change the other two shortly at my convenience. Another way of looking at the cost is to ask how much it would cost you to replace the car. Also factor in the depreciation if it is a newer car and the unknown faults a same age car might have.

My number 3 injector failed on our way home from Xmas with relatives. The AA confirmed injector 3 had failed. As I have full AA cover they transported us and the car home (so I could take out suitcases etc) on then carried on with the car to my garage of choice. The garage replaced injector 3 and I agreed they also replace injector 2 as it was well out of spec. Other posts on this forum sugest that once injectors fail on the 1.6L CAYC engine, remaiming old injectors will fail soon after. I plan to change the other two in the spring. I think that once you get injector failure codes you may be able to reset the codes and carry on for few miles but inevitably you will find you need to change the injector. Reseting the failure code can also convince you that the fault is intermittent as you can drive with no code until you demand high torque such as by accelerating to pass someone while climbing a hill.

It wasn't quite the same noise as yours but my noise was the stone protection cover (tube) over the shock absorber shaft at the rear. Sometimes this tube is part of the shock absorber but on the Octavia it is hangs down from the bump stop. If the bump stop fails (made of rubber) the tube drops down and rattles. Just a thought and easily checked. Tube is part 14 and bump stop part 2 on this drawing:-

On my 2012 Estate (different wiper motor to the hatch) the same fault was caused by worn brushes in the motor. The hatch uses a motor which also has the washer pipe inside the shaft and so introduces other causes of failure.

What fault diagnostic codes are present now?

You may have a problem with the fog lights in auto settings but just to rule out any confusion about cornering lights by using the front fog lights, here is the action list. If cornering lights have been activated, then below a certain speed and light level:- 1) turning the wheels for a left turn will only turn on the left fog light 2) turning the wheels for a right turn will only turn on the right fog light 3) putting on the indicators will turn on the same side fog light 4) putting the car into reverse will turn on both fog lights This last action sounds daft but is actually very useful for those of us in the dark countryside as it adds extra stray light to the hedges.

Or the battery voltage was too low intil you had driven it a few miles. The electronics on these cars require a normal votage. It may still be possible to start the car with low battery voltage or temperature and see strange icons the display until the battery has further recharged. Or, as in your case, the indicators could be affected. Having said that, it could be as siiiim suggested. There is post in this forum or perhaps the Octavia Mk1 forum that shows how to clean the contacts.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16787/P0403/001027 Looks like it could be an EGR fault. Generic code readers sometimes get it wrong unless they allow you put in your car details.

When you remotely unlock the car it will turn on the interior light plus the useful puddle lights in the wing mirrors. You can add dipped beam to this if "leaving home" is available which I think means having auto lights and maybe a different set of features in the software pack. Yes you do. If you flash the lights when you are still in the car then they will come on as you open the door (but cancels if you leave it too long). The count down delay to turn off the car lights starts when you lock the car doors. With my delay set at max it gives me enough time to walk 30-40 feet to my front door, get out my key and unlock the front door of the house. I did all the programing on mine with the Carista app, of which this is just one of many changes.

Try flashing the headlights in the normal way just before you leave the car. This is the method (once activated) for switching on coming home lights when you don't have auto lights and may give you a clue to what is happening. Coming home lights puts on the dipped beam plus sidelights front and rear and drls. The on duration is also adjustable. I use this feature frequently as there are no streetlights here and most people have a longish drive so their outsides lights are no use to me.

When you get to install the new window glass, you will see that the glass is held in place by two plastic parts, one inside the other that go through a hole in the glass. When your glass was broken the plastic parts probably ended up in the bottom of the door. For once this proceess is described well (with photos) in the Haynes manual.

If you unlock the doors and then just do nothing (such as putting the key in the ignition or better still, turning it) the doors will deadlock automatically after about 10 minutes. Same happens if you only open a door with a failed microswitch (no door open indication on the display). Basically that is what JR said. The open door with the microswitch problem will lock when you close the door. It doesn't need to be a failed microswitch, just the signal not getting through: for example a broken wire in the body to door flexible conduit.

As it mostly seems to be a problem when turning, I suggest the cause is a slightly buckled wheel. Easy to check by raising each wheel in turn and checking the wheel rim on both sides while spinning the wheel.

There is no indication on the facelift dashboard to show that the DRLs are on.

It is so difficult to get to the EGR on 1.6 tdi CR engine (engine code CAYC) that people usually just replace it once they have gained access. If a garage does the work, most of the cost is labour.

Sounds like you have not activated the DRL in the ECU. The maxidot DRL ON/OFF is like the procedure shown in the handbook for those without Maxidot. The warning message is to tell you to activate in the ecu using a program such as VCDS, Carista or one of the many alternatives. Unfortunately the term "activate" is used for both procedures. See my posts on this thread dated 11 and 12 Sept 2019.

After disconnecting the battery, when you reconnect it will throw up the steering icon you show. The electric power steering will reset one you have driven a short distance with bends or gone lock to lock a couple of times.

Problem solved. I asked a Skoda garage to look at the problem of removing the headlights as the car was with them for an MOT. I had been soaking the mechanism in proper spray penetrating oil since my last post. The largest and strongest guy in the workshop eventually got each headlights to move. The fixed and sliding plates had been held together by rust. He cleaned away the rust and lubricated the parts. Now easy to pop out the headlight for a bulb change. No charge.

Not a common problem but I remember a post some years ago with a similar display. In that particular case the display had graphite-like contacts printed onto a rubber substrate and the contacts had dried out with age. In your case it is likely that moisture is the cause. If you have climate control, try driving for a few days with aircon on together with a high temperature set on the heater. This combination will warm up the cabin well whilst also reducing the humidity level in the car. (The handbook usually shows this as a fast method for "unsteaming" windows). Does not work below about 5C as the compressor will be inhibited.

A wet fuse box in the engine bay often causes corrosion of the printed circuit board, connection and the solder joints to the fuseholders. Glad you found the cause.

A At your mileage if this is first time the EGR has failed then you are doing well. I assume you did not have the dieselgate "update" or you would typically be on your third or fourth by now. Unfortunately, its location means there is a lot of labour charge to replace the EGR and cooler assembly.

But you loose the power steering and potentially power assisted braking unless you are very quick. I found that out the hard way.